Thanks to everyone, especially Rule3, for helping my out last week with my first attempts at reloading dummy rounds. With their help and some practice, I have finally reloaded my first live round. Here it is. Tell me how it looks:



It's a 158 grain LSWC with 3.0 grains of Red Dot using CCI small pistol primers. Alliant manual says to load 3 grains to 3.4 and a minimum OAL of 1.440. I seated to the cannelure and the OAL is 1.474. I have a few questions:

I am using the Hornady GS-1500 digital scale and the Hornady powder thrower that came with the kit. I calibrated the scale with the included weight, then zeroed it. Before throwing powder, I put the empty pan on, pressed the Tare button to re-zero the display with the pan on, then through the powder. Took some fine tuning, but the scale would not throw the exact same powder every time. Sometimes 3.1. Next time, 3.3. Next time 3.0. All within reason, and since the guns that will be shooting these are both .357 magnum, I figure it's all good. Just thought I would get more consistent throws.

I'm gonna load 17 more and hit the range this Friday. But figured I'd wait for any other advice before loading those other rounds. If I still have a hand to type with, I will post the results!

Kbm.
I'm slow, so stay with me. You said "THE SCALE would not throw the exact same powder "
So was the scale giving you different readings as your powder was sitting in the pan?
Or different readings from multiple throws using the same setting on your powder thrower?

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Reg. Magnum wants/Rossi wallet

Looks good to me!

I've noticed that my RCBS powder thrower has more difficulties with certain powders - Unique, for instance, seems to clump up a bit and results in more frequent overthrows than the spherical powders give. I think this is your issue with the small charges of Red Dot (I understand that some people have moved to Promo - similar (same?) burn speed but more dense - to avoid the clumping issues with Red Dot).

I don't know whether your Hornady thrower/scale gives a warning beep on an overthrow (as the RCBS can be set to do) - personally, I dump overthrows back in the hopper and re-do them. But I would probably be throwing that sort of (small) charge of Red Dot from a volumetric measure, like my RCBS Uniflow, just to avoid the PITA of clumping issues with the RCBS 1500 thrower/scale combo (the hassle being that re-doing the overthrows takes time, and who wants to waste time if it's not necessary?). You'll have to decide if the variance is enough to trouble you for your purposes.

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Now go make God proud...

It may smooth out some, too, as you develop a donsistent rythm in dispensing charges. The round looks great, BTW.

Sorry. I meant the scale reading would change. And honestly, some of the powder charges in the pan looked different too. I figured out about halfway through my test throws ( must have done 50 and then returned the Powder to the thrower) that I should put the pan just underneath the thrower so the powder would form a nice center pile rather then spread out

The same powder in the pan would not change readings on the scale. My first throw might read 3.2 on the scale, then my next throw, without changing the measure on the thrower, would read 3.4. Then the next might read 3.1.

The Alliant manual lists the same round as I loaded in +P as having a 3.8 max charge, by the way, and these rounds will be fired from a .357. But I would be happier with more consistent powder drops, although I know the choice of powder (all I could find right now) has a lot to do with that.

Red Dot is another flake powder that usually gives an erratic drop each time. You can try a trick like thumping the measure or really knocking the swing arm but whatever trick you try you MUST do it each time without fail. Avoid flake and stick powders and go with ball or flattened ball powders for the best uniformity between drops.

Looks good.

Hard to tell about the bullet from the photo but I'd say it looks okay. The crimp might be just a tad heavy but like I said, hard to say from the photo.
I would be concerned about the variances in the throw weight.

If they shoot as good as they look you will be a happy reloader.
This reloading business just requires practice. Keep working at it and develop a consistent method of throwing powder. I have sat with a measure and scale several times trying different methods to get a consistent drop. Some measures and some powders are a bit tricky to get a consistent drop but practice will get you there.
I usually use a dipper to measure out Red Dot, that method works for me.
Welcome to the club.
Gary

Kbm, if you look at the book on your scale I bet it will tell you that it's only accurate to .1 grain. So count on that much variation right off the bat. As someone said above some powders aren't very consistent from a volumetric measure (say that three times quickly) so there will be some variation there. Try to be as consistent as you can with the measure and you'll be fine.

I've known several bench rest shooters and they all told me small variations in the powder charge make no difference at the target. Now before anyone screams,yes they do deal in larger cases and powder charges but the principal still applies. Unless you are dealing with max charges a tenth variation won't mean a lot in a handgun. Stay within the limits of the load data, relax and enjoy.

Also, you'll find that there will be differences in data from book to book. That is the difference in powder lot, primer, case manufacturer, bullet, crimp, etc. My standard load for 45 ACP in a couple books is toward the low end but in at least one is at the high end.

Good luck, quit worrying and enjoy. So sar you seem to be doing fine.

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.

Looking GOOD....................

I load 3.5grs of RD with a cci500 in my 38 snub nose and get
720 fps for a nice medium heavy target load, in this light gun.

I have gone down to 2.8grs with a 148gr wc but for some odd reason, 3.5grs is the lowest amount of RD that I use with the
158gr lead and my best accuracy in my 6" revolvers came at 890 fps.

Nice to see you are up and running............

Stay safe.

Powder measures will only be so precise. Scales and tricklers are for getting it perfect.

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Wayne
Torn & Frayed

Well, here they are, 18 rounds ready for the range.



The kit came with a trickler, but that's only going to help me if the weight is low. Still, I will probably try it the next time and set the thrower to throw a lighter load, then finish with the trickler.

Dumping the powder back into the Red Box jar was OK. Gotta get a funnel to make it easier. Powder was stuck to the inside of the thrower, too. It's stored in a wood box in the garage, which is not air conditioned. But it is attached to the house so it's never an oven. Maybe store it somewhere in the house? Wife won't like that, I can promise.

I am nervous about shooting them, but all reloaders were their first time. I'll get over it.

Wish me luck!

Make sure you strip down that powder measure and clean thoroughly with cleaner. I use Hornady one shot dry lube and gun cleaner. If your powder drop is new it will be a nightmare to use with flake powder if it has the protective coating on it. Other than that good looking loads.


Thewelshm

You are doing just fine...but you worry too much. That variation you see is normal and can be caused by many little things. Large flake powders don't throw tiny charges well; if you're trying to weigh in a breeze from fan, AC or outdoor wind that can affect the scale. This all stuff you learn by doing.

BTW: Those things you're making are cartridges; the thing at the top is the bullet.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

I think it's best to develop a technique or habit when you throw your powder charges. I use Promo powder and find that it's pretty consistent. When I throw a powder charge, I adjust the measure and throw a few charges so it "settles down". Then, when I throw a charge I always tap the handle twice when it fills then move the handle down to charge the empty case. I use a loading block and place the charged case in the block. I weigh every tenth charge to see if I'm still OK. I'm sometimes off by .1 but I figure it's no big deal. I've had to adjust charges when I started since both the guns I generally shoot are autos and I needed to get the charge right so the slide would function. Caution is the key in reloading and work up charges in small steps to make sure you're not over doing it. Keep safe.

Yes I know. Rookie mistake in the heat of excitement! The manual said nothing about cleaning the plastic hopper with gun cleaner. Just used soap and water

Did that when I got it. Sprayed the whole thing with brake cleaner. Is the sticking to the inside of the hopper normal? It wasn't a ton.

Gotta get another shell holder. Kind of annoying taking it out of the press to use in the hand held priming tool

Try disassembling your powder measure and rub everything down with a used dryer towel. Kills the static that has powder sticking to the plastic tube. Every so often in the winter here we get very low humidity and I have to wipe down my RCBS. Works great on the scale pan too.
I started with a ball powder (W231) and the first time I used a flake powder the inconsistency drove me crazy. I try to just use ball powders now. When I load it's one or two hundred at a time so I want to set the powder measure and forget it (yes, I weigh every 10th throw or so).

While I'm sure your rounds are okay, they appear a tad long for overall length. Have you tried chambering them? They must enter the chambers without any resistance of any kind.

First off, the rounds (cartridges) you loaded look fine and you should have no problem firing them at the range.

Secondly, I started using Red Dot when I couldn't find any other powder to use. For 38 Special I use 3.2 grs. with a 158 gr. Lead SWC. I use the Lee Auto-Disk powder measure with the powder thru Lee Die set. I know from experience that I usually have to go to the next higher cavity in the disk, to get close to the charge I want to throw. To get 3.2 grs. I have to use the disk that is supposed to throw 3.5 grs. When I set up the powder measure and fill it with powder, I throw 12 charges to settle the powder in the measure. I then throw 10 test charges and weigh each one to see how close I am to the desired charge.

When I actually start reloading, I weigh the first 10 rounds to make sure all is still okay. From there, I check every 10th round until finished. When loading smaller charges of Red Dot, you get a little more variation from charge to charge; but I am able to stay +/- .1 gr. When loading 45 acp, I still stay within +/- .1 gr., but there is less variation. EXAMPLE: The first 50 rounds of 45 acp that I loaded, I had 2 that weighed .1 gr under and 2 that weighed .1 over the desired weight. I know this because I weighed all 50 charges, and 46 of 50 were right on the money!

So being consistent in how you use your powder measure, you will have more consistent charge weights for your cartridges. It looks like you're doing a fine job, be careful and cautious and let us know how your first reloads perform! :-)

Your rounds look nice.Many years ago I started with a 310 Hand Tool and weighed powder on the pharmacy scale while the cleaning crew was busy at closing time.My advice is never store anything for reloading in the garage or you will never get back in the house to reload! Go about your in house reloading like it is the only way to do it safely.

Looks good, remember, always start with the minimum load, then work up....best advice ever given...

The clinging powder is caused by static electricity. Some folks rub the plastic with a dryer sheet, use dry lube sprays , rinse in soapy water then let dry and use other anti-static products and methods . Me I just don't worry about it, empty the hopper (don't keep powder in it) and wipe out the few grains that cling with a paper towel. For transferring powder into and out of the powder container I found a small aluminum funnel, has 1/4 or 3/8 inch opening in it, that doesn't get the static-cling problem and allows all the powder to flow smoothly. Stainless steel funnel should work also.
My "first" were 38 special, 158 SWC with Unique, 1967, your's will be just fine, have fun. ( I was nervous too but that was 1967 and I was new )
Gary

From your posts I am coming to the conclusion that Red Dot meters about as well as Unique, which means it meters about as well as dog poop. Poor metering is why I have a somewhat Love/Hate relationship with Unique as a pistol powder. I just love how versatile it is but it meters so poorly in most powder measures that when I use it I hand weigh each individual charge.

My solution to has been to find a powder suitable for the chosen caliber an bullet weight. Since I do load 38 specials I can give you some suggestions on alternate powders that meter superbly.

In first place would be Vihtavouri 3N37, a superb metering powder with a burn rate somewhat slower than Unique. However, that slower burn rate means that you get excellent velocities at lower pressures that possible with a faster burning powder. The downside is that it is a bit flashy but IMO it's no worse than Unique and is cleaner shooting than Unique.

Next up is sort of a twofer. That is either Accurate #2 or Accurate #5. Accurate #2 is a medium fast burning powder that is well suited for reduced recoil loads using lead or lighter jacketed bullets. Accurate #5 is a slower powder well suited to heavier jacketed bullets in 38 special or lighter jacketed bullet Magnum loads. All of the Accurate Number series powders are designed for superb metering qualities but the particle size is small enough to cause leakage issues with some powder measures (Lee). BTW, #7 is slower and #9 is the slowest in the series and using #5 thru #9 will permit selecting a burn rate near perfect for 357 Magnum loads featuring jacketed bullets ranging from 110 grains to as high as 158 grains. Basically #5 = 110 and 125 grain bullet, #7 = 135 to 148 grain bullets, and #9 = 150 to 158 grain bullets.

Chambered fine. The guns are .357 so a little extra length in there. Manual only gives minimum OAL, not maximum.

It's a BOY! I am so proud!

They look fine.

Electronic scales suck. They will vary a bit just by looking at them, a breeze, lights, whatever. The fluctuation you see is not big deal. Invest in a balance beam. Much better and they are warrantied for LIFE.

Power measures will also vary a bit with different powders. So a 10th or 100th is no big deal either.

Normally you zero the scale then calibrate it not the other way around. What weight did it come with. Usually they come with some big heavy thing. A set of small check weights like .5 up to 10 grains are better.

After the power measure is clean. You need to run at least 1 lb of powder through it to coat everything. You can just use a large setting and crank out a lot of powder into a bowl or something.

After you put the powder in each case, did you put them in a loading block and check each one (level of powder) before placing a bullet on top and seating??

If so you should be ready to shoot and have no issues. You seated to the cannelure so no worries as to COL. It will never be what is in the books unless you have the exact bullet and have trimmed your brass. I do not even measure revolver cartridges.

Well done Grasshopper!

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Still Running Against the Wind

Yes. Used a loading block and checked each with a light. Had the primed rounds upside down on one end, then dropped powder and put them right side up on the other end. Double checked before seating too. Scale came with a 100 gram test weight. You press calibrate, then out the weight on to check. I weighed it on its own too. Always came out 100 grams


I'll do the powder costig dump before the next round. If all goes well on Friday, and I expect it to, I'll load in blocks of 50 to build up a stash for the next run.

If you do not get a non electric scale at least get check weights. A 50 gram weight is so far out of the range of what we are weighing. 3-6 GRAINS. You want weights that show that.

Cheap electronic scales are just that regardless of the name on them. Most beam balances (regardless of the name) are made by Ohaus who has been making them for 100 years.

A good scale, and not because it is a Dillon is the Dillion Eliminator. RCBS makes a nice one also.

Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders

Balance Beam Reloading Scales | Scales - Powder

RCBS Standard Scale Check Weights 60.5 Grains

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Still Running Against the Wind

kbm6893-
You're doing fine! I agree with S&WIowegan, you worry too much. Though I'd much rather have you worry, than the alternative of thinking you know it all already . I've never used a digital scale, so I don't know how much that may be an issue, but powder measures can be a bit tricky with anything but ball powders. My usual method is once I "think" I've got my measure adjusted, I throw 20 charges into a dedicated coffee cup, then weigh another one to check, usually 20 is enough to get the measure settled in. I also like to dump the charges that I'm weighing into something other than my scale pan. I like a cut down cigar tube or the top half of a Krazy Glue container, you reduce your chances of making a mess, (especially when you graduate to big rifle cartridges & you're dumping 75+ grains @ a time). The dryer sheet trick actually does work ; and if you think Red Dot is bad, wait 'til you try 800X or some IMR 4831 . Keep at it & don't be afraid to ask more questions.

-Klaus

So if I buy the check weights for the digital, can I re-calibrate it? In other words, if I put a 5 grain weight on it and it reads 5.3, can I adjust it so it matches the check weight or do I just make a mental note of adding .3 grains to the scale reading? So if I want 3 grains I should look for 3.3 reading on the scale?

once clean a silicone spray will work...As I said I use the Hornady product... Whats good about your scenario is that you will do great with the right available components powder etc........... Tough right now to get what you really need but that makkes us adapt...


thewelshm

Congratulations!

Handloading is a natural extension of the shooting sports.

You'll never look back...

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GOA
USA Shooting Supporter

I took apart the thrower again and cleaned it with the hornady one shot spray. I also sprayed the inside of the body where I saw some power clinging to and the threads. Manual said to spray everything metal so I figured that meant the body, too. Do I try the dryer sheet trick right before I put the powder in or do I just do it when I reassemble it?

Clean the powder measure. Let dry. Then run powder through it all over the inside of the hopper.(as I mentioned above) It will get coated with fine "graphite" dust. Then leave it alone. Yes you can wipe the hopper with a dry sheet or just wipe it with powder,

As to check weights, those show the exact true weight, Your scale should agree with what ever you put on there. If you put the 5 gr weigh it should read 5 gr. That's why electronic scales are not my choice. They are fine for a quick weigh of a bullet or something.

A scale needs to be repeatable. You are probably getting variance from the actual powder drop.

Get the powder measure (seasoned) drop what weight you want, weigh it, if it is 3.0 or 3.1 or 3.2 don't worry about it.

As you are starting at the bottom load.

Again, JMHO get a beam scale

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Still Running Against the Wind

Next on my shopping list! I won't worry about sticking powder until I go to load something else and use a different powder. Thanks for everything, man.

Soap is great for dishes and cars but.............

it leaves a film if not taken off 100%.....not the best for your use.