Went out and fired off 200 rounds loaded with the new SNS coated bullets today in a pair of .357 revolvers. I was using the 125gr FP sized at .358 on top of 5.2gr of Titegroup. First off (this is just a coincedence) they were hitting at the same point of impact as my favorite load using Hornady XTP's. That was just kind of a bonus. The thing that really impressed me though was how tightly they grouped. I shot at 50ft, 25yrds, and 35yrds with very little difference in the POI. At those ranges they were as good if not better than any groups I've ever gotten with the XTP's. Beyond 35yrds I have trouble seeing the little 1" orange dot on the target so I seldom shoot beyond that. To top it all off I don't recall noticing any smoke. I wasn't looking for smoke but they were obviously much cleaner than lubed bullets. At about 1/3 the cost of XTP's I think they're a heck of a buy.

+1 on coated bullets!

Went the diy route with coating.
My jaw dropped.

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it just needs more voltage

As time marches forward the demand for older waxy type lubes is going to dissipate.

More COMMERCIAL CASTERS are also switching to the use of COATED BULLETS.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Do coated bullets have any drawbacks?? What comes to mind is the 'moly' bullet fad that died out for several reasons. One being that if you decided to shoot moly bullets, you could ONLY shoot moly bullets. People also said it took more powder to get the same velocity as conventionally lubed bullets.

rwsmith,

Moly seemed to leave messy barrels for many.

I only have used the HI-TEK process others are experimenting with POWDER COATING of the ELECTROSTATIC TYPE.

The process COMPLETELY ENCAPSULATES the lead projectile.


I reload with FINISHED PROJECTILES from Bayou Bullets and SNS CASTING.

I also SELF COAT with materials from Bayou Bullets, and Gateway Bullets can also supply you with either.


Black Bullets International, LNL Casting near Canfield, Ohio are recent commercial casters who converted to the HI-TEK process.


THE BLUE BULLETS company uses a different Polymer Process to coat bullets.


20 years of competitive shooter usage in Australia for the HI-TEK process projectiles.


Some of the casters sell SAMPLE PACTS of their wares to give the loader a chance to give them a try.

The CLEAN dies, equipment, hands, no leading, clean barrels have made me a convert for sure.


I'm awaiting some of the new HI-TEK "DRY MIX" SELF-COAT product to arrive from GATEWAY BULLETS and

I also need to order some more sample packs of some different 9 mm projectile from Bayou Bullets.


Donnie at Bayou Bullets recently added RED/COPPER, and GOLD coated to his line up, GREEN "GATOR SNOT" was his previous only choice.

The RED/COPPER and GOLD withstand more heat.


Give them a try, you just might like the results.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

After 100 younds through each pistol I'm not seeing anything in the barrels that's not supposed to be there. Looks as clean as when i'm shooting jacketed bullets. Mind you, I'm only loading to about 1150 to 1200 fps.

I have yet to see any downside.
No powder contamination, guns clean faster and easier, velocities can be driven higher, no smoke, less airborne lead, and the ability to color code your loads for easy identification.
It's not a trade and seems a pure gain.

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it just needs more voltage

venomballistics,

Now that a whole mouthful of truth.
The HI-TEK coatings are a WINNER TO ME.

I ordered some different 100 bullet sample packs of 9 mm projectiles
this morning from Bayou Bullets.

1:05 this afternoon, an e-mail from DONNIE, they shipped already.

God, I love that mans CUSTOMER SERVICE.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I'm heavy on the powder coat variety.
Seems they both work to the same ends, with powder coat having the advantage of wider availability.
That seems to present a good option for those who already cast and are looking to get in on coating their own.

That said, I am still in the "where has this been all my life" phase of the discovery.

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it just needs more voltage

venomballistics,

I have been purchasing FINISHED HI-TEK projectiles PLUS coating

my own castings with the product for DO-IT -YOURSELF, FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW.

I positively love the stuff too.

The POWDER COATING METHOD you are using has also been working just fine for many shooters.

JUST BE CAREFUL not to spill any of that type of powder, it can easily get everywhere and make a REAL mess.

FOR SOME IT WOULD MEAN DIVORCE COURT!

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Every pc'd bullet I've shot so far has had more/higher velocity than their traditional lubed counterpart in the same firearm, same cases, primers, powder charge, crimp. Perhaps the hi-tec coated bullets are different? I'm using the dry powder powder coat method with nothing more than a plastic bowl with air soft bb's in it and shaking them to get the pc coating before baking them.

The way the moly was used was a huge mistake!!!! The bullets should of never been coated. Moly is at it's best when it's used as it's intended, in the pores of the metal. I've used moly over the years to treat trigger groups, bolts and barrels.

Do some trigger work (spring change, polishing, etc) and try the trigger. Then moly treat all the moving parts, huge difference.

Polish the internals of a bolt some time & then moly treat the bolt body/fp & striker spring, it's amazing how much it cuts the lock time down along with having a more consistent stronger fp hit that can easily be proven with a chronograph.

The most important part of a bbl or cylinder is the leade of the chamber or where the bullet starts in revolver cylinders. Excessive heat & lead/carbon buildup in those areas destroys accuracy. Treat that area only with moly and it will:
Cut down on accuracy destroying fouling
Cut down on accuracy destroying heat

Moly isn't a bad thing, it just shouldn't be on bullets.

As far as coated bullets, I really like them. No smoke, no lead, no hard alloys or any alloy issues with the pressure/speeds of the bullet. The heating process in making the coated bullets anneals the alloys making them soft. They expand/seal the cylinders/barrels better/easier than their rock hard counterparts but the coating protects everything from leading. Clean guns, clean barrels, higher velocities for the same load/bullet and just as accurate but for a longer period of time (less accuracy destroying fouling).

I forgot to mention another advantage.

after loading cast, I always disassembled the dies for a good cleaning.
brushing with oil till all the lube build up was clear.

after my last session .. I disassembled all dies used, then put them back together.
there was nothing to clean

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it just needs more voltage

The only thing I've found so far to the negative is if you shave coating off during seating then you may as well pull that bullet right then and there.

Yes,

You must EXPAND/BELL the case mouth enough to not cut or injure the coating.

Chamfer the inside and outside of new brass helps.

Some can experience problems due to too much crimping.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

yeah, there is that.
But then I kinda toss that aside as we'd do this with traditionally lubed cast anyhow.

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it just needs more voltage

I agree with the above statements. I just wanted to put it out there. As tough as these coatings are to withstand the rifling and pressures in the bore it's funny how easy that knife edge will slice right though them. Since I'm always giving mention of the Lyman M-die I will say that I added one to my .40SW loading and I haven't shaved another one again yet. (knock on wood now that I said that)

Maximumbob54,

I recently added some lyman "M" dies to my set ups.

I LIKE EM'.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

as we speak, I have the last rack of 357's in the sleazy bake before I move on to bowing before the lathe, to see just how much steel I can manage to use correctly.

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it just needs more voltage

I called and ordered some 30 and 32 cal bullets. The 32 are not coated, just traditionally sized and lubed. The 30 are a158 rnfp Powder coated bullet.

Going to try the 32 in a 7.65 Argentine Mauser.
The 30 cal in a 1917 Enfield.

I have been shooting cast in these guns for years. Will see how they perform compared to my own.

David

Venomballistics,

Was a machinist for decades, enjoyed my CNC lathe, Toolroom size Hardinge precision lathe.
I always liked the lathes over the Milling Machines generally.

That's in the Past Now, a new life now exists for me,

CASTING/COATING/BAKING/SIZING/LOADING/SHOOTING/REPEATING OVER AND OVER.

Whew! That was a mouthful, Nap Time NOW!

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

"SNS"??

Mikid,

SNS CASTING, they sell lead projectiles COATED WITH THE AUSTRALIAN

"HI-TEK" PROCESS.

This process is also used by Bayou Bullets, Gateway Bullets, BBI, and recently LNL CASTING in Ohio.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I take that sizing, after the coating has been added, doesn't damage the coating?

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Waiting for the break of day

BLUEDOT37,

Correct, if you're SIZING DIE injures, cuts, scrapes coating THAT'S BAD.

Sizing die would need polished or replaced.

DO NOT size before at least one coat has been successfully
applied if you are using the Australian "HI-TEK" coating formulas.
Sizing beforehand will interfere with the coatings lead adhesion.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

A couple of weeks ago I ordered LNL bullets, went and picked them up their in my part of the woods, and found they are just as consistent as Bayou, very happy with the results give these guys a try, as stated NO Leading at all, the .38's I got 160RN are very accurate and don't leave any muck in the cyl great for matches.

Ive not had a problem with it yet, though I can see where a rough sizer might take a tickle of 400 grit to fix

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it just needs more voltage

the toy I'd love is a laser sintering printer.
load up a draft after lunch, assemble parts by dinner

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it just needs more voltage

I've had good luck with the Hi-Tek on pistol boolits, but it failed miserably on boolits for the big rifle (850gr gas checked .512 in .50BMG). I will try powdercoated boolits the next time out. I absolutely HATE scrubbing fouling out of that barrel.

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The triple smoker

Perhaps powder coated might shine for you if you find the right stuff.
I've found some Teflon powder online.
In theory, if that can't solve it. It can't be solved.

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it just needs more voltage

I want to get into coating my bullets.
How do I tumble coat them, where do I get what I need to tumble coat them, & what are the air soft BBs for?

I don't have a PC gun.

Teflon powder? Hmmmmmm.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

jaymo,

You need to go over to the CAST BOOLITS site, there are several STICKIES containing HUNDREDS and HUNDREDS of posts.

There are DIFFERENT methods the Australian HI-TEK is what SNS CASTING does and the OP's question.

This coating IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT than what people call powder coating.

Bayou Bullets, Gateway Bullets, BBI, and LNL Casting ALSO use this process.
Bayou Bullets and Gateway Bullets will sell you the component to SELF COAT.

The other type of coatings are TRADITIONAL POWDER COATING, either with an ELECTROSTATIC GUN
or TUMBLE LUBING with Plastic BB's (to help with coverage) in a COOL-WHIP container.

Many use HARBOR FREIGHT powders to TRADITIONAL powder coat with (cheap) some H.F. powders DO NOT WORK REALLY WELL, others do.

Coat/Bake/Size with all methods generally.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

actually all the harbor freight powders work great if your using the electrostatic gun. Its the shake and bake methods where some powders prove useless.

As I understand the hy tek and powder coat methods, both roads lead to the same promised land.
Pitch the wax and pick one to replace it.
or ... pick both

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it just needs more voltage

Which Harbor Freight powders work well with the tumble coat method?

I assume the plastic BBs generate the static charge that attracts the powder to the boolits?

I'm thinking this is a lot less messy and less headache than traditional lube.

Thanks for the help. I see this as a revolution in lead fouling prevention.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

Pretty much just the red.
I have even observed it being quicker to build up with the es gun.

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it just needs more voltage

+1 for the SNS coated bullets.

I've shot a couple thousand of them (45+9) and they are great!
I won't buy anymore lead/lubed bullets as long as the Hi-Tek coated ones are available.
My experiences with the SNS Casting company have been positive.

I'm ready to buy some Bayou bullets in 9mm 124 grain. One bullet is smooth like a plated round and the other they offer looks cast with a lube groove. Which would be the better choice?

I'm sold.
I need to get some HF red powder.
And some airsoft BBs
How hard/long do you shake the tub to coat the boolits?

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

686forme,

Either works, Groove or no groove.

Just ordered some more sample packs from Bayou Bullets,

they'll show up in a couple days.

Jaymo,

Till hey look coated.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

While you're at HF look at the gun. It, might still be on sale.
Then pick up some HF black too. Then you can do something about all those scuffed and scuzzy looking magazines you have.
It's not just for bullets ya know.

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it just needs more voltage

Good point.

I wonder if Dura Coat would work as well for boolits as the PC or Hi-Tek coatings?
I have some that I was going to use on a revolver, but changed my mind.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

Jaymo,

You can try anything to add to the data base of knowledge.

READ the Cast Boolits Forum, some have had failures AND major CLEAN UP PROJECTS with their barrels.

You're better off using and REFINING the process to YOUR equipment BEFORE you strike out into new directions.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO