While I've used various cast lead bullets for revolvers (including .45 ACP and .45AR), I'm getting ready to buy and load some 45ACP for my new M&P 45c.

I'm going to be using these loads for paper-punching mostly, and I was wondering if those of you that load cast bullets for the same model pistol have experienced any problems with the shoulder of the SWC's in the cycling of your guns.

I can buy either RN or SWC's with a BHN of 12 or 18. I've had good results loading 200gr SWC's for model 625 revolvers, but have no experience with loads for semi-auto.

Thanks.

What you list worked fine in my 625-4506-and Super Hawg- Go safely.

Every gun is diff. If you want to order 1000 & be sure they work, go RN. I would buy 100 of each try them, see if your gun likes them. My 1911s feed anything. My XD balks on LSWC, so it went to a TCFP or RN for all my 45acp stuff. Some Glocks won't feed the LSWC either. You will be fine shooting 12BHN in the 45acp. Definitely go with a 0.452" bullet. The shallow rifling in most 45acp can be unkind to small bullets.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

My Glock 30 didn't like LSWCs at all, but LRNs run fine. fredj's suggestions are good.

If it will feed the 200 grain SWC, you can adjust the seating depth with the shoulder of the bullet using the barrel. I adjust so the brass is flush with the hood. It now head spaces on the bullet. This may improve accuracy... or not.


One 6 shot magazine per target.
45 and lead are made for each other.

David

Do what David R suggests. Seat the shoulder of the bullet out about 1/32 of an inch beyond the case for starters, and keep increasing or decreasing, until you get the correct headspace. Remove the barrel from your gun and use it as a measuring gauge. The rim of the cartridge should be flush with the barrel hood.

Using this method removes the variable of case length from the equation. You are now headspacing off the shoulder of the bullet, contacting the leade of the rifling now, instead of the case, off the step in the front of the chamber. This idea is nothing new, as it has been around for decades. A lot of bullseye shooters use this setup.

As far as the hardness of the bullets go, I don't think it matters that much. Although I personally like the softer alloys, so I normally use wheel weights @ BHN of 10 or 11, with good results at common 45 ACP velocities. Although the typical 45 ACP bore diameter is .451, I think you will be better off using .452 to 4525 diameter bullets. They will give a more snug fit in the case, and still easily swage down to .451 in firing.

Been trying lead bullet loads in my FS M&P 45, so far very good results.
Mine shoots 185 and 200 gr. LSWC with no problems, 200 gr. LRN/FP and 230 gr. LRN also.

Thanks all for your replies.

I think I'll try softer lead, in .452" diameter, and use the seating suggestions mentioned above.

The nice thing about having the 625 (aside from the fun of shooting it) is in the event any rounds don't work well in the 45c, I won't get stuck with a bunch of bullets that I can't use...I'll just load them into moon clips and give the revolver some exercise.

Thanks again.

My S&W M&P 45c shoots everthing including 200 gr LSWC with no problems. I use the same seating method for 200 gr LSWC as mentioned above.

Good idea. Use the "Plunk test" to determine seating depth and to make sure the larger diameter bullet will fit the chamber. I have used softer bullets (around 10 BHN for my 45 ACPs) and they feed, and shoot cleanly. Do not use a Lee FCD die with cast lead, oversize bullets!

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Thanks for the Lee Factory Crimp Die suggestion. I loaded 50 rnds of Berry's plated 200 SWC's last night using a mild crimp setting of the Lee FCD, and I couldn't understand the series of 2-3 "bumps" as I ran the seated-bullet cartridge through the die...I've got to "plunk" away on each of the 50 rounds, and then see if I can find a taper crimp die for the rest of those plated bullets.

It just occurred to me that when I'm seating LSWC's in .45ACP, and seating the bullets using the bullet shoulder rather than the case mouth, just what kind of crimp am I supposed to be using?
I don't suppose bullet set-back is going to be a problem in 7-8 round magazines using mild target rounds, but I am supposed to use some kind of crimp right?

Use just enough Taper crimp to remove the bell in the case and you should be good.

Most 45acp dies use a taper crimp. All that is needed to load 45acp for most needs. Heavy loads with heavy bullets in a revolver may want a roll crimp. I have a 250gr LSWCHP load for my M625 that falls into this special category.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Yep. Bullets are held in place by neck tension, not crimping. Many times crimping/over crimping will loosen the case's grip on a bullet...

I have a variety of 1911's and have been shooting cast bullets in them since the early 70's, my everyday practice load is a 230 RN over 4.5 to 5.0 of bullseye....target loads for my Gold cups are 200 gr SWC's and for defense or hunting loads I load a 200gr HP such as these. These are a part of the batch that I just cast, sized & lubed. Some of these 200 gr. HP's will also find their way into my 1917's, 25's and 625's.

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Most will likely be able to work, with some experimenting but for me & my Sig 220 the swc's have been the least fussy. I use the plunk test WITH ALL SEMI's.

I've had far less trouble getting 230 RNL or 230FMJ, or either in 200g to work flawlessly with standard recipes for various 1911s.

Not to argue with anyone, my own loads of HP have never demonstrated any advantages, and some have been less than reliable in feeding.

I've tried various 185-240 g boolits of various types. Of course the 625 loads have remained relatively indifferent to SWC/HP/RN /TFP.

A member here provide some marvelous hex-nosed hollow point he cast/lubed personally. They were marvelous in my 625 but not reliable in the 1911s.

I like the tips listed above & may well get around to trying some of them.

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Dum vivimus Vivamas

My very favorite load of all of them is a 200 grain swc in the 45 ACP over 4.0 Red Dot. About 800 fps or so, not a barn burner, but it will put them in the same hole if I'm having a good day. Seat with a taper crimp, just a thumbnail of the bullet shoulder showing.

This load has fed and fired in every 45 I own.

Good luck!

For years my favorite has been the Lyman 452460 (200 gr SWC) over 4.5 grains of 700X. My 4 cav mold is older than than the hills but it is a very sweet casting mold. Using scrap lead I'm shooting for less than a nickle a round.

I cast 200 gr SWC with Lyman or Lee mold that makes a long nose bullet like the H&G #68. I load to OAL = 1.250" and taper crimp diameter right at the edge of the case mouth = 0.469" / 0..470" with a Lee Factory Carbide Crimp die.

The Lee FCCD holds the crimp diameter on mixed brass. The OAL varies ±0.005" (1.245" to 1.255"). The Lee bullets are tumbled lubed, and not sized. The Lyman bullets are lubed and sized to 0.452" in a Lyman 450 sizer. My ammo functions trouble free in 15 different 1911s. I cast bullets using range scrap mined from an outdoor range. I don't know (or care) what ingot hardness is.

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S&WHF 366

I cast my own, and my 1911 likes 200gr. SWC just the same as every 1911 I've heard. I cast using mostly wheel weights, in a Mihec HG#68 clone mold. The only guns that I know that didn't feed these were two different Tanfoglio/EAA Witnesses, full-size steel and an Elite.


However these 200gr. RNFP also from a Mihec mold, have not had any issues in any gun they were fired from.

Did you have any problem with the Glock's polygonal rifling? I've heard it's not recommended with lead bullets, but I doubt that anything is absolute.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

For some odd reason I keep reading these types of statements on multiple websites. I'm not singling anyone out (I just happen to be using your post 3five7), just putting this out there.

Why is it that every/all ammo mfg's use a taper crimp/crimp on all their 45acp ammo?

And

It's only the hand loader/ home reloads that say you only need neck tension/no crimp?

Commercial/professional ='s crimp
Private/ hobbyist ='s no crimp

45acp headspaces on the case mouth , hence the taper crimp . In a revolver you can roll crimp without issues . Ammo mfgers because of liability issues have to make ammo safe for any gun in that caliber .

I was just going to post that here. Not only is it not recommended, shooting lead reloads will void the warranty with any Glock model. They go on to say that:

"Lead bullets have varying degrees of hardness that can lead to fouling many different types of barrels in today modern firearms. As opposed to jacketed bullets, that are designed for a more consistent spin and trajectory due to the bullets interaction with the hammer forged polygonal and octagonal barrel rifling, lead bullets have a tendency to drag through the barrel before they ‘catch’ and start their spin motion in the barrel. This single action causes lead residue buildup in the barrel if not properly cared for. Over time, this buildup of residue can reduce the bullet to barrel fit and cause extreme pressure buildup that could cause a catastrophic failure if the barrel is not properly cleaned and cared for. Following the GLOCK recommended guidelines on ammunition usage and the recommended cleaning schedule is required."


With that said, any use of handloads (jacketed or otherwise) will void most warranties. I would use gas checks on the back of cast lead bullets, if I was dead-set on using them in a Glock. Gas checks act as a little "jacket" on the back, reducing the amount of lead that melts from the hot gasses going down the barrel. It's that melted lead (and subsequent buildup) that becomes the problem.

If people would just clean their barrels better, it wouldn't even BE a problem.

I have a Sig 1911 and a Glock 21 that will eat anything I feed them. My Ruger SR1911 would jam every now and then on 200gr. LSWC's. That 1/32" above the case mouth had to be just right or it'd jam. Would run 100% on RN's. I enjoy reloading but doing 2 different 45acp loads gets to be a PITA. Thanks to Extreme I now have a nice supply of plated 230gr. RN's.

Groo here
I let the barrel set the bullet length at first, then make shorter as needed
to feed well.
Easy way to start, drop bullet into barrel and use a caliper to measure to base from the hood [ extension on top of barrel]
Measure the length of bullet ,add to first number, this is max length
of chamber [ with that bullet]
Load one [with out crimp] and see if it fits the mag .
If yes,. your done for the first batch, if not, make shorter till it fits.
This is the max length for your gun.
The length will very with bullet nose type.
These [except with swc bullets ] will fit your 25/625 revolver.
The chamber in your revolver may be shorter than the auto
and the edge of the swc will be more important.
Ps Try to crimp so that 1/2 the case mouth digs into the cast boolet to ensure the boolet
does not push back into the case on chambering. [ only done this for 30+years though so may not do anything]