After a while of gathering equipment (Lyman Spartan from Blujax01 and dies from Novalty, thank you) and knowledge, much from this forum, I took 30 reloads to the range to test in my E-Series and am happy to report ALL ran fine with no mishaps. Very gratifying and I compare it the trout I caught on my first hand tied fly.

I had 10 ea of CFE @ 5.6, 5.7 & 5.9 grs. (start is 5.4, max 6.2) with Berrys plated RN 230gr. and tried two different COL of 1.211 and 1.254. The manual calls for a COL of 1.200 but that seemed to seat pretty deep in the case so I experimented a bit and went a little longer.

There was a noticeable difference in recoil with the reloads vs factory. Less recoil with the reloads, which I assume is due to the lower loads I used. Would max loads react more like factory? I actually enjoyed the reloads, just curious.

Concerning COL. At what point does the change in COL effect the performance of the round? If the data calls for 1.200 how does it change the performance when going longer and at what increment does that change take place? If there's another resource that explains this just point me there and you don't have to go into detail here.

Anyway, I am hooked! Looks like I better get a powder measure next since weighing each round is a bit time consuming, but I must say, didn't mind it for the first go around.

One more rookie question. Is there any reason to separate brass by brand?

Congrats on the first range trip with your reloads! Better start expanding your reloading bench

I tend to run my reloads towards the bottom end of the charge, so my reloads have less recoil than factory. As long as it functions the slide and you aren't getting excessive crud build-up you should be fine--I like the ability to get back on target faster. As far as the OAL, I perform the "plunk test" and find the longest OAL that will function properly and leave it there. Going shorter is going to increase the pressure levels, and also create a large gap for the bullet to bridge to contact the lands & grooves.

Don't waste your time sorting your brass by headstamp, in the 45 ACP all you need to sort for is primer size. BTW, some really get in a lather about small primer 45 ACP but having some on hand after the Sandy Hook massacre kept me loading and shooting when LP primers dried up in my area. Since then I just resign myself to sorting by size and try to segregate them on my range outings.

Overall length. As a rule of thumb you can always increase length without concerns about it having a negative effect on pressure in terms of safety. You can also usually shorten a load a bit as long as you are loading with a charge level below the maximum. However, how much shorter is safe is a bit of a guess and you need to be diligent about checking every single case of your test batch for excess pressure signs any time you load to a length shorter than the recommended length. As for functional effect of load length, in my experience you can sometimes tighten up the velocity spread by shortening a "light" load so that pressure rises more quickly during the initial phase of ignition. Basically, what this does is the same thing as a heavier charge of powder, which is get the pressure up into the range where propagation of the flame front and ignition is more stable. Other than that I really haven't been able to observe any effect on accuracy from varying the length of a handgun load.

BTW, my prefered length for loading 230 grain 45 ACP RN loads is 1.250 inch on the dot. While some recipes do call out lengths as short as 1.200 inch with this bullet I have yet to find one brand of 200 grain RN bullet that will crimp properly at this shorter length.

That is exactly the issue I was having when using the 1.200 listed COL on the CFE, it wasn't crimping properly and I thought it was something I was doing wrong. Going to 1.254, very close to your recommendation, worked great. I measured some factory that was a long as 1.620

Good news on the brass as I was spending time sorting by headstamp and will put that time to better use. I do have some small primer and will hang onto it. Thanks!

I like the plunk test idea. Thanks! Can you explain what causes the "excessive crud build-up".

Yes, my bench is already too small!

Well by excess crud, I mean dirty loads. Most powders that are run at low charges are extra sooty, and get cleaner as they burn most efficiently at higher charge levels. As an example, I was running the starting load 4.0grs of W231 behind a 230gr. cast bullet. After about 100 rounds or so in my 1911 I noticed the slide sticking, bump up to 4.5 then to 5.0 and noticed it was running cleaner, and less fouling build-up meant I could shoot more rounds. Which reminds me I need to order some Ballistol to try.

I see. More good info to store in the memory banks!

The "Plunk test" is a good thing.................

For the minimum OAL on the bullet, I may be a little different
than most on my set up. I use the area where the Cylinder
(bullets flat surface) and the bullets Ogive (tip tapper) meet.

No way do I want this area to enter the case................which
will reduce the area of bullet friction when run through the final
die, crimping the brass back to the bullet.

Minimum OAL can work with light target loads but it can also
restrict what powders you can use, due to reduced case volume.
Factory OAL will usually work with almost all of the standard
powders in todays manuals, with the increased case area.

Long OAL can improve accuracy in a pistol.......if the length will
work in the pistol being used. However it may not work in another pistol.

Good loading.

Other than primer size, I don't separate any cases of any caliber. rifle or pistol. All my powder loads are in the data's mid-to-upper range. It seems to burn cleaner there, but I haven't used a max load since my .41 Magnum days. Just never found a reason to justify that much powder and wear & tear.

That's exactly what I just did with my last batch, some mid and some just above that but not max. I am enjoying trying different loads and COL's. Will save me lots of time not sorting brass too.

So the listed COL is the minimum it sounds like. This seemed too deep when I followed this on my first run. Longer seemed to seat much better.

I'm certainly not saying your don't need a powder measure but I have an expeditious way to measure each charge. Get a set of Lee scoops for $15. A powder trickler is something good to have. I use the Redding and it's and excellent tool and not junk like some others.

Find the scoop that throws just under the load you want and toss it on the scale. Use the trickler to make up the little bit to get the full charge and dump it in the case with a powder funnel. Get your hands working together and it can go quickly.

Reloading. Ain't it fun? I like to experiment and my latest success was very light 9mm loads with 147 grain coated SWC and 4.5 grains of Acc #7. Shoots great out of my 3rd gen 5943 and I was chewing the bullseyes out of the targets. That's not something that happens a lot with me.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

RW, I'm glad you brought up the scoops. I have seen those but wasn't sure if they worked so left them on the shelf. I did pick up a Redding trickler at a gun show a while back. Currently I have been pouring it out of the trickler first then finish off the load the way the trickler is designed for.

...and yes, I am really enjoying the whole process! Right now I just have CFE and Tightgroup to work with but that's plenty to get me rolling. I hope I'll get to the point I can tell if it's the ammo or me effecting my accuracy.

You can just go by the supplied chart with the scoops and make a safe load. But the only way to really do it is to KNOW the amount thrown by checking with a scale. Besides, check weighing helps you learn to scoop the same way each time to get good consistency.

I pour the powder into a butter bowl and scoop away. Keeping about the same level helps with consistency.

As far as inaccuracy caused by ammo quality goes, I can't make ammo bad enough to shoot worse than I do.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"