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Old 05-10-2015, 12:14 AM
Hfrog355 Hfrog355 is offline
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Default 44 Mag - Crushed case?

I produced my first full batch of 44 Magnum today! I enjoyed the process more than I thought I would, to be honest. The brass is Starline and the bullet is a 240 grain Nosler JSP.

Anyway, most of the cartridges look great, but some of them appear to be "crushed" (this is the only way I know how to describe it) a little bit. Here is a picture of the worst one:



It just looks like a little ripple in the brass on one side. I am assuming this happened because the cases on the affected rounds were not flared enough and the bullet snagged a little before being pressed into place. If this is correct, can this be fixed for future rounds by simply flaring more? What else could cause this?

Next question - Is this round safe to fire? They all slide into the cylinder just fine with no hint of an issue. The case is straight, though I'm sure it is off by some very very small degree.

Last question - Can this brass be reused? Assuming it is safe to fire or I just pull the bullet, can this imperfection be fixed during the regular resizing process?

Thanks in advance. I'm excited to test these out.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:23 AM
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You can seat them a little deeper so the crimp rolls into the cannelure, this is what I would do. Some people seat and crimp in two separate operations but if you try to crimp below the cannelure, I am thinking you will end up with the same results.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:27 AM
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I have had this happen when seating and crimping in the same step.

That bullet could be seated deeper as well.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Abflyboy View Post
I have had this happen when seating and crimping in the same step.

That bullet could be seated deeper as well.
What he said!

Trimming your cases to the same length and seating and crimping in two steps should eliminate that problem, crimp to the center of the cannelure regardless of the OAL.

With new Starline cases I trim to 1.270 (in .44 mag) because they usually run from 1.269 to 1.278, with various sizes in between, I also size and process new cases just as I would do as if they were fired, with the exception of cleaning of course.

With careful attention to case length and die adjustment you can get away with seating and crimping in one step, but it is a lot easier to get good results with cast bullets than jacketed because cast bullets usually have a generous crimp groove.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:53 AM
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Second Kurac. You are trying to crimp outside the cannelure and buckled the case. Seating and crimping in two steps is preferred and makes it much less likely this will happen.

Short explanation, your dies aren't set correctly, read the instructions again, and again, and again...........

If the cartridge chambers just shoot it, the wrinkle will be gone!
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:42 AM
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Way too much crimp, compounded in part by not crimping fully in the cannelure. Set your seating stem a little deeper, until the cannelure is level with the case mouth, and back off your level of crimp. A slight roll of the case mouth into the bullet cannelure is fine. You can ensure consistent crimps by making sure your cases are all trimmed to the same length. Straight walled handgun cases seldom stretch after their first firing and trim.

Larry
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:00 AM
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I've done this for the same reasons mentioned above. I also shoot them as Alk8944 said. They're a little tight to chamber but come out like nothing happened.

Check those dies!
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Fishinfool View Post
Way too much crimp, compounded in part by not crimping fully in the cannelure. Set your seating stem a little deeper, until the cannelure is level with the case mouth, and back off your level of crimp. A slight roll of the case mouth into the bullet cannelure is fine. You can ensure consistent crimps by making sure your cases are all trimmed to the same length. Straight walled handgun cases seldom stretch after their first firing and trim.

Larry
I have been there and done that.
Fishinfool nailed it . Could not have said it any better. Great advice.
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:02 AM
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It's called a Buckled Case, something that happens with you exceed the column strength of the case. BTW, if you want to read about one of the subjects for an engineering major look up Euler's Buckling on google.

I would expect that when you try to fit one of these rounds into a chamber you will find that buckle prevents you from doing that. I've been there, done that, and now crimp ALL of my revolver loads separate from pressing the bullet because longer cases means they buckle much easier (see Euler's).

As for what to do with your buckled assembled ammunition? There is a solution for that. Purchase a Lee Factory Crimp Die for 44 sp/44 Magnum. That extra carbide sizing ring on the FCD that gets so many all worked up about bullets being ironed undersized will reduce the diameter of those cases enough to allow chambering and firing, which will then eliminate the buckle by fire forming. BTW, the sizing ring on the FCD is set at the maximum SAAMI dimension for case diameter to insure an assembled round will chamber in any firearm with a SAAMI specification chamber. So, no need to "plunk test" your ammo and I have never seen any loss in accuracy from using these dies.
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:44 AM
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I've been seating and crimping in one step since forever and it works as well as doing the same in two steps IF you take the time to "properly" adjust your die. Period!
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:47 AM
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Thanks so much everyone!

So, here are my takeaways:
- Focus more on crimping into the cannelure and seating the bullet based on that. I was really trying to seat to OAL number and not looking as much at the location of the crimp in relation to the bullet. I assume that a shorter overall cartridge will be fine to shoot, but that as long as I'm not over OAL, I should be ok, right?
- Back off the crimp just a little bit. Doesn't need to be quite as drastic.
- The damaged cases should be safe to fire and the buckle should come out without issue. All of the affected cases do chamber just fine. The buckling is quite mild.

Does that sound like a good game plan for my next steps?
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hfrog355 View Post
Thanks so much everyone!

So, here are my takeaways:
- Focus more on crimping into the cannelure and seating the bullet based on that. I was really trying to seat to OAL number and not looking as much at the location of the crimp in relation to the bullet. I assume that a shorter overall cartridge will be fine to shoot, but that as long as I'm not over OAL, I should be ok, right?
- Back off the crimp just a little bit. Doesn't need to be quite as drastic.
- The damaged cases should be safe to fire and the buckle should come out without issue. All of the affected cases do chamber just fine. The buckling is quite mild.

Does that sound like a good game plan for my next steps?
That all sounds like a plan, OAL comes more into play if these cartridges where to go in a magazine, its sounds like they are going into a revolver which means you should have plenty of room for variation. I would add that if you don't add enough crimp, the bullets will pull under recoil and will bind your cylinder up. Get the right amount of crimp is one of those things that you kind of have to figure out on your own. Good Luck!
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:45 AM
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I just bought Richard Lee's first edition of Modern Reloading to add to my reloading manual collection. The first edition came out in 1996.

With that being said, I started reading it from the very first pages. This is what he said about adjusting seating/crimping dies:

Insert a case into the shell holder and run to the top of the ram stroke. Adjust the seat/crimp die down until you feel resistance of the crimping shoulder. With a bullet started into the case, adjust the seating stem until the case mouth is at the bottom of the cannelure. At this point, you can adjust the die body down to form the desired crimp and as you make the adjustment, the bullet will be seated deeper into the case as well. According to what I read, you should reach a proper/desired crimp BEFORE you seat too deeply/beyond the bullet cannelure. This made perfect sense to me and I would've liked this bit of information years ago! LOL As a side note, revolver cases should be trimmed to the same length; makes seating/crimping much easier!

FWIW, I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on my semi-auto cartridges (9mm, 40 S&W and 45acp). I've never had issues with revolver rounds and still load them with 3 die sets (38 Spec., 45 Colt and now 44 Mag). If you make adjustments to your existing dies, I think you'll be fine :-)

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Old 05-10-2015, 12:24 PM
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To much crimp.

Case length not uniform and bullet not seated fully.

I find 44 mag to be the most sensitive to this. I load on a turret press and keep the dies loose so i can make adjustments on the fly..

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Old 05-10-2015, 01:00 PM
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What I do in adjusting dies is to screw the seating die out a bit and play with bullet seating to get the uncrimped case mouth set even with the bullet cannelure. Then back out the bullet seating punch quite a ways, so it is well clear of the bullet nose. Then lower the die body incrementally until the crimping action can be felt on the upstroke. Examine the crimp visually to make sure it is OK. Lock the die body in place with the ring at that position. With the loaded cartridge in the case, run it into the seating die body to the top dead center position, then lower the seating punch until it just touches the seated bullet, then lock it into place also. That's all it takes to do seating and crimping in one step.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hfrog355 View Post
- Focus more on crimping into the cannelure and seating the bullet based on that. I was really trying to seat to OAL number and not looking as much at the location of the crimp in relation to the bullet. I assume that a shorter overall cartridge will be fine to shoot, but that as long as I'm not over OAL, I should be ok, right?
I am going to guess you are not using the bullets and cases that the load data calls for? If you are loading mild loads it probably doesn't matter. But if you are going for magnum level loads, I would at the least work up the load. All I mean is, OAL isn't generally that important, I think most of us seat to the crimp groove. But you have to recognize that doing that with different bullets under the same load can have differing results.
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- Back off the crimp just a little bit. Doesn't need to be quite as drastic.
The problem was you were crimping while seating. The die was applying the crimp before the seater was done, thus buckling the case. You can still crimp heavily if the load you are creating requires it. If you crimp separately, you can crimp to any level you want. Or when done in one step, you could likely crimp the hell out of it with no problem, as long as you get the seating and crimping adjusted properly. It's just it is easy to mess it up and buckle cases. And if your cases aren't very uniform in length, you'll never get it set up right for all of them.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:36 PM
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I've been seating and crimping in one step since forever and it works as well as doing the same in two steps IF you take the time to "properly" adjust your die. Period!
For someone that has infinite patience, mebbe. The adjustment has to be right on to complete the crimp as the bullet stops moving. Period. For a new reloader it is waaaay easier to seat and crimp in two steps, comma, and if, after more experience is gained, one wants to double up, seat/crimp, that's fine too...

I think the seating depth is ok on the pictured round but buckling comes from the crimp being applied to a moving bullet and pressure is directed to the body of the case, pushing downward and buckling the case body whether the crimp is on the body of the bullet or the cannalure...
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:12 PM
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I believe that your case and reloading die are not correctly aligned. You need to bell the case mouths just a little larger so the jacketed bullet starts squarely into the case. It appears that your expander die is slightly off center when belling the case along with not enough case mouth flare.

I have had this happen with a dirty shell holder / shell plate / press ram where the shell holder or case was not inserted all the way causing a misalignment. The "side bulge" was the result. I didn't find the cause in 10 seconds either. This 'knowledge' is a result of my experience .

Your case crimp needs to be located in the cannelure as several have stated.
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Old 05-10-2015, 04:45 PM
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For someone that has infinite patience, mebbe. The adjustment has to be right on to complete the crimp as the bullet stops moving. Period. For a new reloader it is waaaay easier to seat and crimp in two steps, comma, and if, after more experience is gained, one wants to double up, seat/crimp, that's fine too...

I think the seating depth is ok on the pictured round but buckling comes from the crimp being applied to a moving bullet and pressure is directed to the body of the case, pushing downward and buckling the case body whether the crimp is on the body of the bullet or the cannalure...
"Infinite" patience not required, just the desire to properly adjust. I set up my seat/crimp die on my initial rounds back in '75 and it's worked since. Don't underestimate the capability of a beginner. It's not complicated.
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Old 05-10-2015, 06:42 PM
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I've only got 4 or 5 years reloading experience, but I've never had a problem with the seat/crimp operation. My 38spl., 357mag and 44mag dies are RCBS 3 die sets and I adjust them just as RCBS says in the instructions. Set your bullet depth first and back it off, then slowly adjust the die body for crimp, reset the bullet seater to the crimped cartridge. I was worried about breaking the copper crimping plated bullets so I started using a magnifying glass to check. Amazing what that crimp looks like "up close and personal".
I did kink a couple of cases one time. Took me a few to realize I still had the SWC seating rod in the die and was seating round nose bullets. That did not work well.
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:11 PM
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The two step method is good but slow.

Same length brass is great for doing it all at once unless.......

you get a bullet that has the "Can" in the wrong spot on the bullet. You may feel the difference in pressure of the down stroke but 50% of the time it is a damaged case if not caught.

Good loading.
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:21 PM
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Ok. Back to the bench this afternoon. I tried to keep my new lessons in mind and reset my dies, paying careful attention to setting the bullet depth properly. Here are some pictures:





The cartridge cases are uniform in length (1.275"), just not lined up evenly. I was carefully adjusting the settings as I went (I made 18 rounds) and I had very minor buckling only on two of them when I adjusted the bullet depth too much and didn't change the crimp setting. I think I'm getting the hang of it, or at least understanding the concept more. Thanks for your insights!
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:29 PM
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If I'm understanding correctly, OAL isn't something that is vital to be adhered to with 100% rigidity in revolvers (I only plan on reloading for my Model 29 for the foreseeable future). My Lyman manual calls for OAL of 1.610" for the most comparable projectile to what I'm loading, but if I load this to the cannelure, it's much closer to 1.600", even a little on the under side. Obviously going over OAL would be a no-no since I don't want to run out of cylinder space, but if I'm a touch under, that won't be an issue, will it?
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:28 AM
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If I'm understanding correctly, OAL isn't something that is vital to be adhered to with 100% rigidity in revolvers (I only plan on reloading for my Model 29 for the foreseeable future). My Lyman manual calls for OAL of 1.610" for the most comparable projectile to what I'm loading, but if I load this to the cannelure, it's much closer to 1.600", even a little on the under side. Obviously going over OAL would be a no-no since I don't want to run out of cylinder space, but if I'm a touch under, that won't be an issue, will it?
As I understand it, the only potential issue with seating the bullet that small amount deeper would be if the reduction in case volume were to cause the pressure to increase to an unacceptable level. With those big magnum cases the tiny reduction in case volume shouldn't cause an issue unless you're loading right up at the max charge levels. If you're comfortably below max powder charge it should be fine. If it were a small case like a 380 or even a 9mm the 10/1000ths of an inch difference in seating depth might make an appreciable difference - but not in a case the size of a 44 mag.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:29 AM
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I've done it before, but never a 44 magnum.
I love loading big bores for the press handle feedback.
You can feel the crimp roll in and stop so easily over small calibers.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
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"Infinite" patience not required, just the desire to properly adjust. I set up my seat/crimp die on my initial rounds back in '75 and it's worked since. Don't underestimate the capability of a beginner. It's not complicated.
The OP's entire problem is the bullet is still moving downward as the case mouth is being pressed against the bullet. It's a matter of getting the adjustment "just right", which as shown by the original post, is often difficult for new reloaders to get correct. I tell new reloaders the K.I.S.S. concept usually works best until one gets enough experience to try other methods, and separating the seating operation from the crimp operation is waaay easier and waaay more precise, specially for a new reloader.

Personally I don't really care how anyone processes their ammo, (I ain't gonna shoot it ), I just try to help entry level reloaders keep frustration and confusion at bay so they can produce safe, accurate ammo and have fun doing it...
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mikld View Post
For someone that has infinite patience, mebbe. The adjustment has to be right on to complete the crimp as the bullet stops moving. Period. For a new reloader it is waaaay easier to seat and crimp in two steps, comma, and if, after more experience is gained, one wants to double up, seat/crimp, that's fine too...
I don't know how it could possibly be any easier to seat and crimp in one operation, assuming you understand how to adjust the seating die. I have been doing it the way I described previously in #15 since the late 1960s, and never once felt any need whatsoever to seat and crimp as separate operations.
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:32 PM
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I don't know how it could possibly be any easier to seat and crimp in one operation, assuming you understand how to adjust the seating die. I have been doing it the way I described previously in #15 since the late 1960s, and never once felt any need whatsoever to seat and crimp as separate operations.
Never had to divide these steps for a revolver cartridge
Some autos demand it however.
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:49 PM
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A progressive press nearly always seats and crimps in separate stations. The only exception is if you use dies made for a single station press (omitting the expansion die, which is part of the powder funnel). What you notice is how little pressure is needed compared to the combined seating/crimping operation in a single station press. It is this vertical force which causes the case to buckle unless the dies are set perfectly, the cases all trimmed to the same length, and the cartridge is aligned perfectly with the die. Even so, you get about 1% rejects, which is too many if you crimp separately.

For a single step operation, you must set the die so that the crimper just engages the cartridge as the bottom of the cannelure is even with the lip. Otherwise the crimp tightens on the bullet, requiring excessive force to complete.

By separating the operations, you can also apply a heavier crimp, this is necessary with a slower powder like HC110, or with heavy recoil which may cause unfired bullets to pull out of the case and jam the cylinder. I've used a 3-die set in a progressive, but with the die backed out for seating and a separate crimping die in the fourth station.

Sometimes the long way around is the easiest way home.

Last edited by Neumann; 05-11-2015 at 03:51 PM.
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  #30  
Old 05-11-2015, 05:51 PM
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There is absolutely zero need to seat bullets and crimp in separate operations when loading revolver rounds as long as the bullet is seated to a depth which places the case mouth at the middle or slightly higher on the cannelure when completely seated. This is doubly so with cast bullets. When you start talking about autoloader rounds and a taper crimp, that's an entirely different story.

This entire problem emanates from the OP not really understanding how his loading dies work and how to adjust them correctly. It also speaks to folks giving so much attention to an OAL listed in a loading manual that it clouds their perception of what they are trying to accomplish and even more so, what that number is actually printed for.

Again, the COAL listed in loading data is not any kind of guarantee of functionality of the loaded round or is it any kind of length specification. It is listed in order to qualify the conditions under which the pressure data was developed and nothing more.. Many time it is merely the SAAMI spec's maximum length for that particular round. Further, most pressure data is developed using a Universal receiver and pressure barrel and not an actual firearm so that in itself should tell you something.

In this particular case (no pun intended), the cases may have been a bit too long, the cannelure a bit too low on the bullet, a tad too much crimp applied or a combination of all three. Just start over and adjust the seating/crimping die correctly and the issue will go away. You probably will NOT need to trim cases. The damaged rounds can probably be repaired by pulling the bullets, resizing the cases without the de-capping stem installed and then recharging with a light load, seating , crimping and firing.

In view of the fact that the OP has more than one of these "oopses", I just have to inquire whether these were manufactured on a progressive press.

Bruce

Last edited by BruceM; 05-15-2015 at 10:37 PM.
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  #31  
Old 05-11-2015, 06:22 PM
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No, it was a single stage. I credit the creation of multiple ill-formed rounds to being a complete newbie, not understanding exactly what I was doing and not knowing what exactly to look for. I was very preoccupied with OAL and didn't take note of the collapsed cases.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hfrog355 View Post
No, it was a single stage. I credit the creation of multiple ill-formed rounds to being a complete newbie, not understanding exactly what I was doing and not knowing what exactly to look for. I was very preoccupied with OAL and didn't take note of the collapsed cases.
you need to learn to feel it.
run it up into the die nice slow and easy.
feel the slug being pressed in and ending in a moment of resistance that breaks over ... almost like a click.
thats your crimp.
at that point, stop cranking on it.
if you have room on the handle .. raise the die a tickle till it properly crimps at the absolute up position.
if you do not feel that click at all, you're too high or you've missed the canalure.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:24 PM
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"If I'm understanding correctly, OAL isn't something that is vital to be adhered to with 100% rigidity in revolvers"

Only insomuch as the bullet nose cannot stick out beyond the front face of the cylinder. If the bullet sticks out, even if only slightly, the cylinder cannot turn. It's best to have the bullet nose slightly below the front cylinder face.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:29 PM
Hfrog355 Hfrog355 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venomballistics View Post
you need to learn to feel it.
run it up into the die nice slow and easy.
feel the slug being pressed in and ending in a moment of resistance that breaks over ... almost like a click.
thats your crimp.
at that point, stop cranking on it.
if you have room on the handle .. raise the die a tickle till it properly crimps at the absolute up position.
if you do not feel that click at all, you're too high or you've missed the canalure.
Yeah, that feel is something I noticed during round 2 of this thread. I was cranking them WAY too hard the first go round. Gotta learn somehow though.

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Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
"If I'm understanding correctly, OAL isn't something that is vital to be adhered to with 100% rigidity in revolvers"

Only insomuch as the bullet nose cannot stick out beyond the front face of the cylinder. If the bullet sticks out, even if only slightly, the cylinder cannot turn. It's best to have the bullet nose slightly below the front cylinder face.
Right.
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  #35  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:17 PM
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THEWELSHM THEWELSHM is offline
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Sounds like your on the right track mate. I load many Magnum rounds with seat and crimp dies no problem. Die set up is critical


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  #36  
Old 05-12-2015, 12:54 AM
Carrier Carrier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMSgt View Post
"Infinite" patience not required, just the desire to properly adjust. I set up my seat/crimp die on my initial rounds back in '75 and it's worked since. Don't underestimate the capability of a beginner. It's not complicated.
I am just starting with a single stage and a Lock n Load. I loaded about 30 dummy rounds of 38 special setting up Lyman dies and I think I got it right. Single stage was a piece of cake but the progressive took a little longer.

Last edited by Carrier; 05-12-2015 at 12:55 AM.
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  #37  
Old 05-12-2015, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venomballistics View Post
Never had to divide these steps for a revolver cartridge
Some autos demand it however.
I crimp and seat all of my autos in one step also. No problems.
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  #38  
Old 05-12-2015, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMSgt View Post
I crimp and seat all of my autos in one step also. No problems.
My yardage varies dramatically.
the HK USP in 45 simply will not feed one step ammo.
you will never get the mouth down far enough without plowing a ring of copper out of the bullet.
Same story with my match grade chamber in my 1911.
a stock chambered 1911 on the other hand, will feed a mag of rocks when you run out of hard ball, and may be single stepped.

Since resigning to a two step process, I have observed performance and consistency improvements regardless of being necessary or not. thus it has become a standard practice at my bench.

seating, by nature, is movement of a bullet.
crimping, by nature is a means of stopping that movement.
they fight each other.
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  #39  
Old 05-12-2015, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venomballistics View Post
...seating, by nature, is movement of a bullet.
crimping, by nature is a means of stopping that movement.
they fight each other.
These three sentences make the most succinct sense of any and all of the things written in this whole two page thread - at least to me.
But what do I know...
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:35 PM
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I'm glad my seating/crimping die doesn't know that and can't read.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:41 PM
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I just changed my dies over from .38 Special to .357 this afternoon for the very first time. I backed way off on the seating depth adjustment and forgot to back off on the die. Hmm I got a buckle that was really triple buckle wish I had a picture. Yep as in sentence two the crimp stopped the bullet and the case took up the slack. Not petty.
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  #42  
Old 05-13-2015, 03:39 AM
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always seat and crimp separately.
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  #43  
Old 05-13-2015, 09:17 AM
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I was only working on getting the bullet seated to the canalure and the last stroke the crimp took over stopping the bullet and really crushing the case. Impressive how much force these presses can apply. Got the seating right probably was way to OCD on trying to get it just right on the can then gave it a good crimp on stage 4 and it looks good. I think. Will shoot them across the chrono tomorrow when I test the 38 Special powder placement in the case across the chrono. Don
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  #44  
Old 05-15-2015, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
I don't know how it could possibly be any easier to seat and crimp in one operation, assuming you understand how to adjust the seating die. I have been doing it the way I described previously in #15 since the late 1960s, and never once felt any need whatsoever to seat and crimp as separate operations.
You'll have to ask the OP why he didn't/couldn't get the adjustment right. Regardless of how anyone chooses to reload, there are many, many of these threads floating around forums; "my cases are "bending" when I crimp them" and/or "my OAL is all over the place". Almost always from trying to seat and crimp at the same time, and when the steps are separated, the reports of the problems going away are nearly 100%. I can adjust the seating/crimping operation, but I've been reloading since '69, but that isn't the issue; a new reloader is ruining/buckling cases when he tries to seat/crimp at the same time...
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  #45  
Old 05-15-2015, 06:07 PM
Hfrog355 Hfrog355 is offline
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I didn't get the adjustment right because it was the first time I've ever done it - I was ignorant of what I was doing. Seems like plenty of guys are able to reload effectively seating/crimping in one step.
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  #46  
Old 05-15-2015, 06:20 PM
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I didn't get the adjustment right because it was the first time I've ever done it - I was ignorant of what I was doing. Seems like plenty of guys are able to reload effectively seating/crimping in one step.
Don't worry, you'll get it. For months after I stared reloading I had a red spot on my forehed from all those "DOH" moments.
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  #47  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:33 PM
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I just hate throwing a case in the brass recycle bucket with a live primer it it. I can soak the brass before selling it I just hate to loose a primer. bad enough a never fired Star-Line 357 case. Don
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:45 PM
Hfrog355 Hfrog355 is offline
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Don't worry, you'll get it. For months after I stared reloading I had a red spot on my forehed from all those "DOH" moments.
Oh, I'm sure I'll get it, I just don't want people using my experience to say that single step crimping/seating can't be done or can't be effective. The reason some of my cases had issues was because I'm a novice, not because there's anything wrong with the process.
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Old 05-16-2015, 01:52 AM
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Oh, I'm sure I'll get it, I just don't want people using my experience to say that single step crimping/seating can't be done or can't be effective. The reason some of my cases had issues was because I'm a novice, not because there's anything wrong with the process.
I've just started myself. Like I said I loaded about 30 cases with bullets with no primer or powder until I got the depth and crimp just right. I'm now loading live rounds and have had no issues with using one die instead of two. Just used a bullet puller to disassemble and reused all cases and bullets.
I guess using two dies would be easier but I just don't understand why some say setting up one die to do both is that bad.
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:21 AM
Big Stick Big Stick is offline
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Quote:
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I just hate throwing a case in the brass recycle bucket with a live primer it it. I can soak the brass before selling it I just hate to loose a primer. bad enough a never fired Star-Line 357 case. Don
First thing, is adjust your dies using an unprimed case(s).

Second, if you don't want to toss the case, invest in a kinetic bullet puller.

Third, read the manual that came with your die set. It will tell you what to do, in a sequence of steps, to properly set the bullet depth, then crimp.

Fourth, get good at adjusting, because you will likely need to do it, everytime you switch to a different bullet weight/type.....

Good luck!
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