Just today I put together my bench for reloading. Tonight I am sitting down to order my Lock and Load Classic reloading kit. I have a few sets of dies already. Here is my question.

I know what I like to shoot with factory ammo, and a friend has provided some good reloads to start with. I have a few questions.

I am going to be reloading .40 S&W, .38 special, .357, and possibly .270 Win.

Is there one powder I can put in "stock" to handle all of those? I'm reloading just to plink at the range. Not going to be reloading for Personal defense. I will keep factory ammo for that.

Are there any "Must haves" that you have bought for reloading that didn't come with your original kit for reloading(assuming you didn't buy it all in pieces)

Any advice for a new reloader who isn't new to guns?


Matt

Find someone, your friend maybe, to sit down with you and show you the ropes. You will learn a lot, and the hands on with an experienced re-loader will be invaluable. As for a powder chose something that pretty well fills the case, 2400,Unique,296/110 etc. so you don't double charge a case. Unique is hard to beat for plinking. Also a good bright flash light and look in each and every case you have dropped a charge in to make sure that they all look about equal. The 270 will require a different powder for the longer barrel and slower burn time needed with rifle. Save the Bullseye, Reddot, 230 etc. for later after you get some experience.

Buy a couple of reloading manuals and read them cover to cover two or three times before you start.

For those particular cartridges I'd buy at least three powders. At a minimum you'll need two since the .270 will take a slow rifle powder like 4350 or 4831. I'd look at a powder that will produce 90% of the max you see in the loading manuals. For instance, you might need something like 296 to max out a .357, but you might be happy with another powder that will produce acceptable velocities in all those handguns but doesn't maximize either. Some versatile powders are 231, Unique, Bullseye.

If you don't have a beginners manual get one. ABC's of reloading, Lee 2nd ed, Lyman 49th...others? One is good two is better and 3 is best. They are all a good read.

Each one covers the hobby in a different tone and in a different way. Cross reference and comparing opinions of each is best just like cross referencing load data.

IMOP the Lyman manual is better for rifle but I prefer my Lee manual for pistol. ABC is good for starting fresh. Hornady makes a good one too but it is a bit more advanced in language I think.

Just a suggestion...start on the 38. Pretty forgiving cartridge to start on.

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Trucks and guns.

Very few powders can handle pistol and bottleneck rifle cartridges and they don't usually do a very good job for both when they can.

I think that as a minimum, you could get by with one powder for pistol and one for rifle. Some powders are very versatile.

The rifle powder shouldn't be any problem as there has been plenty on the shelves.

You can find a powder that will work in all of your pistols but you won't get optimum performance. If you want true magnum loads you are going to have to get a slow burning powder. Which stands that you could use two powders and do a better job.

Medium burning powders like Alliants Unique can do a pretty decent job with medium light to hot loads in .357 size pistol calibers. I'm looking at my Speer #14 reloading manual and see that Unique and the Accurate Powders #5, 7 and 9 work for all these calibers. Find one that will cover the loads/velocities that you are shooting for. (pun intended)

Before you make any decisions, get at least one of the mainstream reloading manual. They have a lot of information about the components, powder, bullets, primers and also very thorough 'How To' sections. There are differences in loading revolver, semi auto and rifle cartridges that you need to know.

You've got a good start and it's great to have somebody show you the ropes, but there is some knowledge about powders that you need to know. You don't want to try to make a hot load with Bullseye or Titegroup and you don't want to try to make a light load with H110 or Win 296. Weights and construction of bullets figure in also.

Be careful, learn what you need to know and have a great time.

PS Here is a good place to check what you need for reloading.

http://www.midwayusa.com/general.mvc...nning-reloader

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

For "plinking" in the pistol calibers I think you will want to run a single base shotgun flake like Hodgdon's "Universal". You'll need a dedicated slow burning rifle powder for the .270 as mentioned above. Buy Lyman's # 49 reloading manual...TONS of recipes, TONS of quality reading

You can do OK with HP-38/231 or Unique with the handgun calibers. The .270, with 130 or 150 grain bullets is at its best with IMR 4350 and large MAGNUM primers. There are other powder choices possible, but these are certainly OK.

If you do load for the 270, the standard bullet that was favored
by the late Jack O'conner was the 130gr bullet.

My 100 degree antelope load and deer load out to 300 yards is
a 130 Sierra boat tail (#1820) oal 3.34" with 53grs of IMR 4831
with a cci250 primer that does 2700 fps.

This load does not make all the mess that the maximum factory
loads and you come home with a lot more meat for the table.

If you go after Elk the 140gr Nosler Accu-Bond (#54765) with
IMR 4831 and a cci250 will match the factory loads or you can
drop down to just 55grs and a cci250 for a light 2760 fps that
is very accurate in my bolt action rifle. You can use the less
costly Sierra B/T (#1845) for target practice or the Hornady
(#2735) that may be even cheaper to shoot.

My rifle does not do well with 150gr bullets...... so no data.

Safe loading.

Somehow missed the 'must haves' in the op...

Not sure what the Lee kit you are getting comes with, but you will need a better scale and a quality set of calipers. I have the Lee Safety scale and it works but I don't trust it by itself. I have a Hornady digital and check them against each other periodically. We cheap out in different ways as reloaders sometimes, but scales and calipers should be quality items. Repeatable, accurate measurements are important for both safety and a quality finished product.

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Trucks and guns.

Sounds to me like he has a Hornady kit.

Best,
Andy

Best advice I can give is find a person who handloads in your area who would be willing to mentor you. This will save you a lot of frustration, potential problems, and money. Most of us who handload a lot have shelves full of loading equipment that seemed like a good idea at the time. . Best way to find the "mentor" is go to a local competition match, doesn't matter the flavor (IDPA, USPSA, and there are others). Most competitive shooters are more than willing to help. Get familiar with your mentor's equipment and ask around about what equipment to buy before buying any of your own. Not trying to steer you in any direction because internet suggestions are (IMO) not the best way to decide. As well as the posts are written, they're still not on a par with face to face discussions. Good luck and stay safe.

+1 on MrG5122 recommendation. After I charge my (pistol) cases and they are setting in the loading block, I always take a flashlight and look down into the cases to make sure the powder levels are the same in each case. This creates an extra step but it works for me. If there is any question I run into I stop, consult a reputable source (manual/mentor) and proceed with the safest route. Safety first .....always. Oh, one more thing "Quality before quantity.

Lots of sound advice here but I will just reinforce the idea of a good reloading manual or two and read the first chapters before the loading specs. This is where you can learn the real fundementals that are a constant no matter what you load. Things like headspace, case design, primers, bullet types, powder types etc etc etc.

The other option would be to look around for a reloading class. They are popping up everywhere and can be found at your local ranges or clubs, gun shops and sometimes your state Fish & Game dept will know. A one day class will reveal a lot of the little things that fall through the cracks in a manual or reloading tool operating instructions. Stuff like how stick powder pours compared to ball or flake, trickling, setting up and checking your dies, tricks for bullet seating and concentricity, keeping load records, organizing your bench etc etc etc . Of course starting off with a race car progressive press makes these small incremental steps difficult if not impossible to perfect it is still, in my opinion, absolutely the backbone of sound ammo reloading

Good luck

Thank you all for the input. I have been reading a reloading manual. I have a friend coming to run me through the first few times I am reloading. And I ordered the Hornady Lock and load classic kit. It will be a month or so before I even start so I'm sure I'll have more time and questions. I am not rushing into anything.

Handloads.com, is a good source of info. Bob

That sounds ideal. You sir, are in tall cotton.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

No.
40 and 38 might get along on one common powder, but 357 will suffer, and 270 ... totally different ballgame.

Get this notion out of your head.
While you might not want to load for SD/HD at this time, you might want to train for it. Train as you fight, at least using ammo that mimics as closely as possible, your defense loads.

Plinking ammo is essentially the cheapest possible route to a box of ammo.
Target ammo, is a route to accurate ammo, not necessarily cheap ammo.

Plinking mentality leads to most blown guns due to squibs and overcharges from super fast burn rate powders. The safety net gets a little thin.

Many ....
it depends on your path.
You might need a powder trickler. You might need casting equipment. You might need a progressive to keep up with some guns.
If it becomes a pain, stop and look at the steps that make the process painful.
then search for solutions to those problems.
That will lead you to all your must haves far better than anyone here can.

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it just needs more voltage

This is the spirit of Elmer Keith and in your future I see that you will enjoy reloading so much when you realize that you can make ANY load you want in your chosen calibers you will be shooting more and in different ways. My friend RWSMITH thought he was mostly interested in home defense, until he started reloading and.......the picture is going dark but you get the message.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

you got lucky.
I started reloading with a 44 magnum. Then one fine day I saw a mold and a melter at the LGS ....
just one mold mind you, in 44 none the less.
This shop normally didn't carry casting stuff.
At that point the spirit of Elmer yelled "LISTEN PUNK" and pistol whipped me.
Today, I'm possessed.

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it just needs more voltage

I tried to enter a reply a bit ago and was re-routed. I'll try again.

Several other have submitted excellent comments. I agree that a good starting powder for the pistol calibers you list is Unique. There may be better powders, and eventually you may drift towards them after you gain experience, but Unique is a great powder to start with.

For the rifle caliber (.270 Win) I also agree with either IMR-4831 or IMR-4350. Both are great choices for the .270.

As far as your basic starting set up, first and foremost is at least one good reloading manual - Lyman's is a good one in that it has an excellent section for beginning reloaders, and will explain and walk you thru the whole process. Besides the obvious stuff (press/dies/scale/powder dispenser), you need a good set of calipers to measure your cases, a decent way to trim your cases to factory specs (like the cheap but effective Lee case trimmer), a chamfering tool (to remove burrs from the cases after trimming) and a loading block to hold your cases while you process them.

Never use ANY load data EXCEPT that data you find in a published reloading manual. Never use data you find on-line or get from a buddy, unless that data agrees with tested data from a reloading manual.

Always work up your loads and test them as you go. Never exceed the listed 'maximum charge' data from a reloading manual. In near 50 years of reloading, I've found that seldom loads that approach maximum are either accurate or pleasant to shoot. Max loads stress the mechanics of your firearms and wear your brass out quickly.

You've gotten good advice so far . . . let me throw a few more things out there for you to consider:

- There are as many tool and method preferences as there are reloaders. Other than learning, there are no real necessities.

- Your kit choice is a fine start. That press will be useful to you no matter where reloading takes you. But no matter what other tools you buy today, you will form your own personal opinion about your wants/needs as you grow. Part of the fun IMO is wanting to fix some portion of your process, finding the right tool, and then acquiring it

- Measurement tools (ie, calipers and a scale you can count on) are likely to prove the closest things to necessities.

- Buy a $30-$40 digital caliper. They are accurate enough for our purposes, and the digital readout eliminates the many reading errors that occur on a dial caliper.

- While the digital scale included in your kit satisfies many folks, depending on what you use it for you are likely to get frustrated by its refusal to weigh the same item the same weight 2 or 3 times in a row, how it loses zero, flutters, etc.

This advice can save you significant cash: If/When YOU decide the time has come to replace/augment it, DO NOT BELIEVE anyone who says their scale or dispenser/scale costs less than $600 and is "dead on, all day long".

True, some scales are better than others. But until you get into the "magnetic force restoration balances", digital scale performance will be erratic. A good beam scale (and a set of RCBS check weights) is slower but much more consistent and reliable.

Now forget that advice , use your kit's digital scale, and make up your own mind when you have some experience behind you.

- Good luck, have fun, stay safe . . . and come back as often as you feel the need.

They make some good beam scales for not too much money but for a starter I got a $25 Lee scale. It works so well for how I need it that I never got anything else. I just have to be sure than it isn't hung up which a slight tap will do.

Though some can point out exceptions, digital scales below about $100 may start out great, but in a short time they are wandering and not holding zero. So if you buy a digital, make sure it's a good one with good recommendations.

I'm on a tight budget so I almost always go with 'cheap' but if you have lots of loot, you can go right for the good stuff.

What I'm NOT ashamed of is the cheapie Lee trimmers that I put in my drill press. Economical (cheap) but works GREAT.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

you need to buy the Lyman reloading manual, use Unique powder, and cast lead bullets. There you got your simple answer to a question that countless books and reloading manuals have covered in painful detail for over a 100 years.

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S&WHF 366

What a difference a year makes. Kudos to all for not going down the brand traps

Numerous people said it and I'll repeat it. Learn, gather opinions, assess YOUR needs, and enjoy. No one size fits all!

This is a fairly balanced thread to reviewIMO.
So you're thinking about getting into reloading...

Good luck and always be skeptical of internet opinions.

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Really? U saw it in Wikipedia?

This thread got me to thinkin'. For pistol powder, is there one powder that could do a reasonably good job with both "standard" velocity auto-cartridges and a magnum cartridge. Someone mentioned Unique, and I think that would do the job. But, are there any others? After looking at a bunch of loading data, I'm thinking that Win. AutoComp might also be suitable.

Per extensive review on the Hodgdon'd site I went with WIN 231 for all my pistol calibers: 9mm, .38 S&W Special, .357 Mag & .40 S&W. There are many published loads at many different bullet weights for this powder, if you can find it...

It is pretty much agreed that Hodgdon HP38 = WIN 231, BTW.

So... Which 500 FREE bullets did you go for?

Cheers!, and remember to use PUBLISHED LOAD DATA and confirm it as best you can from a second reliable source.

p.s. I also load .270 Winchester and there are many powders that are recommended for that caliber, as listed above. Jack O'Conner, one of the .270 Winchester's greatest published proponents, has long been associated with 130 gr. bullets & IMR 4831. Since I also wanted to try loading .223/5.56 I found there were few powders with published loads for both, but H4895 and IMR 4064 & 4320 all worked with the target loads for a 55 gr. FMJBT.

I use CFE Pistol and Autocomp for both standard 9mm Luger and for 9 Major in USPSA competition. They are my preferred powder in both instances.

I agree on the CFE Pistol. I have had good luck with it on 9mm, 38 Special, 40 S&W, 45 ACP. I can get it it make Minor for IDPA in 357 mag just can't get any more out of it. Groups good. Don

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USN Retired/VN VET
M&P X5

What length barrel are you using, and is it a revolver? CFE and AC need to build pressure. I get 1400 fps out of a 5" autoloader (9mm 124 gr) and it isn't done at that speed, that's just where my courage stops.

If you are going to be using a Hornday Lock & Load progressive press, I would hesitate to use Unique powder. Unique is bulky, and does not drop consistently. It's fine if you are loading one round at a time and weighing every round, but blindly dropping your charges will give you inconsistent loads. A fine flake such as 231 or a ball powder will feed through those powder measures much more consistent.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I believe he said he was getting the Classic kit which is a single stage.

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Really? U saw it in Wikipedia?

Storminorman I haven't picked my rebate bullets yet. I bought the kit from Amazon and have the rebate form. And yes I am using the classic single stage kit.

I want to think everyone for the advice(keep it coming) I am soaking it all in and will use all of it collectively to make informed decisions as I go forward.

When it comes to powders, especially for a pistol or revolver, there are very many options. Much has to do with the type of bullet (cast or jacketed).

You might be wise to get that Lyman manual and study the listed loads for the type of bullet and calibers you will load up, and look at the listed charges and evaluate the powders. If I'm loading for multiple calibers, I will first look to see what propellant works for all of them and go from there. Just a suggestion.