I have some 9mm - 125gr (.356") round nose bevel base from Shooter's Cast Bullets. What's a good powder to use to reduce leading?
I've got Unique, Bullseye, 231, Clays, Titegroup, & HS-6 to choose from. Of the powders listed above which would be the best to use?

I have never had any luck shooting lead in the 9mm. I know there are folks who do, but it isn't me. I am not sure the powder matters. I would stay with Unique, 231, Red Dot something like that.

The type powder used has a very minimal effect on leading. Leading is caused by other factors.

Unique is a great cast bullet powder in many calibers.

I had the same problem until I backed off on the powder charge and quit trying to get jacketed bullet velocities.

I use TiteGroup for plated bullets and Bullseye and Red Dot for cast lead.

My 1st choice for the powders you have listed would be W231, followed by Unique. But, my favorite for the 9mm would be Power Pistol.

I've used 231 with good results.

So far I've used Unique, W-231, and Bullseye. Have to say it's a toss up between Unique and W-231.

Leading is more about bullet fit than the powder, but some, like TG, burn really hot. TG has a rep for leading. Ime, if it won't shoot well with unique, it probably won't shoot.

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HS6 and Unique are two good powders for the 9mm. The mistake most people make with loading the 9mm is treating it like a low pressure round instead of the high pressure round that it is, so slower powders work better than the fast ones like BE and 231 etc.

Getting lead bullets to shoot well is no big thing as long as the bullets are of the right size. A big issue with the 9mm as barrel dimensions can be all over the place from .355 to as big as .358 (a common issue with a lot of the Berettas).

Once the proper bullet size and the right powder speed is utilised one can get top notch performance from the 9mm.

As Robert mentioned diameter size is key in 9mm cast bullets. I run mine oversized at .358" and have not had leading or feeding issues in any gun that a I have shot them in: 5906, M&P full size, and Shield.

I've used all those powders OP mentioned, with 'meh' results.

Lately been exploring 124 g RNL with HS6 with pleasing results so far in variety of recipes from low to high end of mfg chart.

Unsure of final claims to accuracy but as yet NO leading in any charge weight, using old P35 and newer P320.

Would love to try G34 with lead but that seems to be of considerable debate, while Glock Itself advises against it.

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Dum vivimus Vivamas

"... a good powder to use to reduce leading? "

Poor bullet fit and fps cause leading.

I usually go with the Bullseye, AA2 fast powders for light, low vel. target loads.

Medium fast like w231 etc for standard target loads......

Medium slow Unique type powders for full loads with lead but....
you can get all powders to work with the little 9mm case, just
depends on how much powder you want to use and the pressures of the loads.

Its all good, using lead bullets.

I don't have a 9mm but I do have a .38 Super, which uses bullets just .001" larger. I currently use 5.5 grains of AutoComp powder with 125-grain lead semi-wadcutters and experience no leading and good accuracy. TiteGroup and W231 work well as does Clays but AutoComp seems to burn a little cleaner.

Ed

I have found that Unique seems to work the best for me been thinking of trying some Universal. But I have a lot of Unique. I have also found that bevel base bullets seem to lead a bit easier than flat base. Lately I have been shooting plated more and no leading with them. But I got 'em real cheap at an auction. 8000 bullets total in different calibers but sold the 40s. The only ones I have shot so far are the 9s and some hollow base 38 wadcutters

best powders for eliminating leading go on the bullet, not behind it.
Harbor freight powder coating, all powder paints, powder buy the pound ....
after you figure out how to boil the lube off your bullets, and use the piglet method of application of powder coating, you can use any propellent powder you want regardless of prior reputation with cast.

however, as many seem unaware of this, and suspicious of it after they become aware of it. Bullseye and Unique are your best bets from your list

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it just needs more voltage

My best overall performance in the 9mm is 4.7 grains of Green Dot with a cast 124 grain RN bullet. But Green Dot is not on your propellant list.

I only have one load for the 9mm, a RCBS 9mm-124-CN, 130gr with my alloy, sized to .358" and lubed with SPG over 5.0 Power Pistol with standard small pistol primer. Shoots very well out of my four 9mm's with zero leading. Clocks at 1,111fps 10 shot average out my SW M-39.

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Stay safe people!

Go ahead, it isn't going to KB your GLock. I have a 1st gen G17. Before the lead bullet warnings, I put 1000s thru it. Just clean the bbl more often than you would a non poly bbl.
Leading is rarely an issue other than poor fit. Not vel, not alloy, not powder or lube, fit is king. You need an alloy "tough" enough to withstand deformation under pressure, but vel isn't the issue. I can run a pretty soft, 8-10BHN bullet in my 45-70 @ 1500fps w/ little to no leading. Pressures are pretty low though, lower than 9mm.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Been using 700 X and love it, but don't tell anyone because it is hard to get. I find 122 grain TC lead bullets outperform the 115 round nose at long range (88 yards).

Yep. Bought 122 grain FPL bullets sized .357 from Dardas last year and settled on a load of 4 grains of 231. No leading in Gen 2 G17 and G19 and Beretta 92FC, minimal leading in SIG P228.
I did have several issues of failure to chamber in both Glocks. My 9mm brass stockpile is mixed brands and I suspect some were thicker than others, possibly making the rounds slightly too large in diameter for the Glock's chambers. No chambering issues in either the SIG or the Beretta. I have switched to Berry's plated FP bullets in .356 diameter for 9mm reloading. No more chambering issues..

I use either Bulls Eye or Red Dot - lot's of others work just as well. If you are shooting lead - you really need to get a copy of Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook - a great source for various grain weights and powder data.

If you are getting leading . . . as already stated . . . powder has very little to do with that. The speed you are pushing them does but even more, your bullet to bore fit. You are using .356 . . . what does your bore slug at? If you haven't slugged it . . start there. I shoot primarily my own cast . . in a Ruger SR9 I'm using the Lee 356-120-TC and the Lyman/Ideal 358-242 - 121 is grain RN. Both of those drop at .358 from my molds with using "range lead". I load and shoot "as cast" - no sizing - tumble lubed in Alox & Paste Wax. I don't load anywhere near "max load" - I work my loads up so the pistol will cycle - usually about half-way between minimum and maximum data and usually towards the minimum. Each handgun will be different though and 9mm bores can vary.

Well I slugged my barrel and came up with .357" so the bullets .356" are too small hince the leading. So I decided I'm going to remove the lube and powder coat them. The coating will make these shootable bullets by increasing .001-.002 to the diameter

Thanks for all the information. I'm going to buy the handbook by Lyman that many of you have suggested. I gotten some great ideas on here. Thanks again guys. My "home" gun forum is MSGO, Mississippi Gun Owners, https://www.msgo.com feel free to stop by and visit. I'm definitely going to be following & posting more here.

I've had great luck with Red Dot and Acc #7. I wouldn't have tried them if it weren't for the shortage. No reason at all why Unique and Bullseye shouldn't do just fine.

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Yes, that's one of the many talents of the full plastic jacket treatment.

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it just needs more voltage

I've used HP-38 (WW231) with 9mm cast bullets in 124/125 grains from several bullet makers and all have shot well, no leading. HP-38 will get sooty in the lower half of the data range while the upper half of the data range will burn noticeably cleaner.

I consider w231/hp38 as the slow end of fast burners or the fast end of medium burners. A useful powder for general reloading, but works best at midrange & up.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Bullet fit is much more important than powder selection in preventing leading. I've found that cast bullets sized .357 solved ALL my leading problems in 9mm and 38Super. I like W231/HP38 alot for target loads with HS6 being a bit better when going for higher velocities. HS6 will also burn cleaner at higher velocity and with heavier bullets. YMMV.

Sized .357, leaves no leading . .355 and .356 didn't work that well .
Have loaded the following :
105 gr. Semi Wad Cutter
120 gr. Truncated Cone
125 gr. Round Nose
All cast with Lee moulds and all sized .357.
Accurate and no lead out of three different 9 mm handguns.
Used : Unique, Red dot and 700X powders. At velocties that would reliably function all the guns, these were not maximum loads.
Driving lead too fast with a soft plain based alloy can cause leading.
Gary

Another vote for 231 and Unique, both of which work well in 9mm. I suppose there are a lot of powders that do.

As already stated, the most important thing to avoid leading in 9mm is the bullet diameter. For many guns .356 is too small. My 39-2 didn't lead a lot, but accuracy was poor until I went to .357. Some guns may need .358.

Once you get the right bullet 9mm is great with cast lead.

I use 231 and am happy with the results.

I'm unfamiliar with Clays, but I would try all the powders you have on hand and use the largest diameter bullet that will freely chamber, probably .358". However, I've found these fat bullets don't work well in an H&K or a Glock. Someone mentioned the Lyman Cast Bullet book. It's a necessity.