During a run of .223 on my Dillon 550 today I had a case separation in the die, not a stuck case which is very simple to clear with a dillon die....this one is broken about 1/2 inch from the extractor groove.

I have a stuck casing remover to use when the case is simply stuck and there is a primer pocket to drill and tap to remove...this time no such thing....

What are you fellow reloaders doing on THAT one? I have measured the inside diameter and come up with .310...perhaps a tap that is about 313-5 and the thread it into the case and remove that way?

Dillon is closed right now so I thought I would ask you guys...

Randy

put it in the freezer first....sometimes it makes it easier. Also not too large on the tap 312-314..oh bottoming tap so you have a flat to drive against

Most gunsmiths have a collection of stuck case removers designed to remove separated cases from rifle chambers. They work very well and won't possibly bugger up a die like a tap might.

Use one of these of the appropriate size.

OEM/9/16 in. screw extractor 25169 at AutoZone.com

Don't forget freezer and penetrating oil...it helps .

Well guys,
I tried the screw extractor with freezing and Kroil.....all it really seems to do is expand the broken casing into the die body....any other ideas?

Randy

What happens if you just cram another case into the stuck case by using the ram of the press?

__________________
WWSSD?
What would Skeeter do?

If you try it, be sure the decapping stem is absent.

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WWSSD?
What would Skeeter do?

Send the die to Dillon.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Just sent it off to Dillon after chatting with customer service.

Thanks everyone!

Randy

What he said.

What you need to do is crease the case wall inwards enough to allow you to grab the fold with some needle nose pliers. In order to do this you'll need a common nail about 2 inches long with the tip ground in such a way that you can get it between the die body and case wall. Think something along the lines of the nose of the Super Sonic Transport. Once you get it started between the case wall and die use a small hammer to tap it up almost to the shoulder. Then grab the nail head with some pliers and pull it out thus leaving that fold that you can get at with the needle nose pliers.

Note, common nails are MUCH MUCH softer than the steel of your die so as long as you don't have a bit of grit from a grinding wheel embedded into the tip of that reshaped nail you won't harm your die. I would also suggest the use of some type of lubricant such as Kroil to make the nail slide in easier.

Thanks Scooter!
I will let Dillon handle this one.......
Randy

The times I've had to pull a separated case from a sizer die, I've used a coarse round rat tail file.
I realize they're not the thing everyone necessarily has lying about the basement or garage, but if you do,it does work well.

Depending on the case and diameter you are working with, you may have a file that fits perfectly as-is, or you may have to shorten it so it grabs within the case body before it hits the neck portion of the case inside. They must be course teeth file to work.

You want it to be able to grab tight in the case when inserted and given a twist (clockwise). Not much is needed, perhaps an 1/8 turn or so will seat the coarse teeth into the brass.
Then through the top of the die drop a brass punch and tap on the end of the file gripping the case.
The file w/case attached will drop free of the die.

Be carefull that the file only grabs into the brass and does not touch the die surface as it will scratch/scar it being very hard.
Wrapping a piece of card stock around the file at the lower end where the brass case is separated and the steel of the die is exposed is a good idea. Even a couple layers of tape helps avoid contact while getting things set up.

Yeah I think that they are the best bet. If you scratch the die you'll need a new one. If they do they will send a new one!

I don't know why that happened but here is some advice you did not ask for. Don't try to get more than 5 or 6 loads out of a 223/5.56 case if your loading for an AR . They require full length sizing and some chambers are generous.

As big a pain as this was it's better than having it come apart in a rifle during firing! Good luck your in good hands with Dillon.

I cannot believe what Dillon Customer Service did on this die!! They did not even TRY to remove the casing....They just sent me a brand new one!!
Randy

Probably not worth the time to do it. Cheaper to send a new die. Props to Dillon for good CS!

Not quite the same situation, but I once had a .223 case separation in a rifle chamber (AR-type). I do not remember the exact tap size I used (I think a 6mm metric tap), but I threaded the tap into the case neck from the breech end and tapped out the forward part of the case with a rod from the muzzle. That procedure should also work for a sizing die.

Dillon has always run a good show, from what I can tell. There is a reason for the talk about "blue
Kool-aid" - Dillon puts the effort into making it happen. It's nice to deal with a company like that, and people remember it!