I've been reloading for only 2 years and only load .38 Special and 9MM. I am super cautious, weighing every charge. On another forum, a guy literally blew up his revolver. He said he weighed every charge and he loads on a single stage press. As I understand it, only way to do that is either over-charge the case, or have too much pressure. Here's my routine:

I load on a single stage press. I have brass primed and ready for powder in a bin under my bench. I do not load more than 50 rounds a time. Here's my routine:

50 primed cases in red loading block, primers facing up. Green loading block standing by for charged cases.

Drop powder. Weigh every charge on beam scale. As scale is settling, remove one case and inspect for cracks (already inspected before sizing and priming, but as I said I triple check everything).

Place case upside down in funnel (to double check there is no powder in there), and once weight is confirmed, drop powder into case and place in the green loading block.

Inspect with flashlight all 50 cases with powder. Once confirmed, seat bullets. Check every 3 with calipers to be sure they are proper OAL (with 9MM only. Revolver ammo I just seat to the cannelure).

Crimp cartridges and dump into completed rounds bucket.

I know I will never load too light or too heavy cause I check every round. I load middle of the road, too. 9MM calls for a max charge of 4.9 grains of 7625, I load 4.6 grains. COAL is never off by more than 3/1000's of an inch (recipe called for OAL of 1.150 and my rounds falls between 1.147 and 1.150.

Can't be more careful than I am.

So sticking to this routine (and I always will. I'm not looking to load in quantities. happy with 100 rounds a weekend), I should be good, correct?

I've fired probably 1000 rounds of my reloads since I started. other than a few rounds that required another strike to fire, probably because I didn't seat the primer deep enough in my early loads, I've never had an issue.

Sounds good to me. In those cases where a gun was blown and the detailed reloading procedures were listed they quite often skip the inspection of all the loaded cases in the block. I remember specifically one where he was using an expensive automated scale and would charge the case and immediately hand seat a bullet. Somehow he got distracted and double charged a case.

Using a powder that more than half fills the case is good too, but while that's easy in 9mm it's a lot harder to do with most revolver cartridges.

I think your procedure is good. All you have to guard against is complacency. I use a progressive now, but I used to keep a little timer on my reloading bench. I'd set it for a minute and would inspect my cases in the loading block until it went off. It's surprising how long a minute is.

I've gotten myself into a routine to wear a LED head lamp and verify each powder drop. I've read a few obscure cases of "my gun blew up" and i often wonder exactly how and why this could be a result of a "double" charge. I load .40 s&w and 9mm and your average 5.5 grain charge almost filles the case. I like to visually look inside the case and verify the correct charge. By design it's impossible for my LEE Pro Auto Disc to throw a double unless the user for some reason cycles the powder drop stage twice. So if I see the powder level about 1/8" below the top of the casing, i'm all good to seat the bullet. This is one of the reasons I like my LEE classic turret. I'm still in a learning curve with handgun loading and with a turret I can stay focused on each individual operation and easily spot an issue.

It would be great if every handloader followed a procedure like yours. Thank you! After listening to some of the things others do at their reloading benches (rely on bushing charts instead of a scale, mix powders and interpolate data when the powder they want to use is not listed for their cartridge), I often have wished they would wear a sign while shooting reading, "Ballistics experiment in progress - stand clear!"

Ed

An under charge is far more dangerous than an overcharge . Wrong or mixed charge is far more dangerous than an undercharge. Alway, as others have stated, check all cartridges in the loading block with a light before seating the bullets....It is hard to overcharge a 9 mm case. .38 special yes it can happen.

Safety when loading is very important. I always load off by myself away from kids, tv, and distractions when loading rifle cartridges after loading pistol ammo,be sure dropper is emptied..

All those different steps to prevent a bad/double powder charge are good, however, the single most important step, a critical step, is to visually check every casing, just before seating the bullet. I also only load 50 rounds at a time. Back in the day, I use to weigh the powder for every round, which is IMHO, a huge waste of time! Any quality powder dispenser, once set, will continue to drop the same charge over & over.

The most important thing you can do, without question, is to visually inspect each casing with a flashlight. It takes less than a minute, to carefully inspect a 50 round block of loaded casing. If you have a double or even a missed charge, that's is where you'll spot it!

I would agree with a previous poster, weighing every charge for target ammo is overkill. Without a doubt checking every charge is a must. Either visually, or using a powder check die, which is only convenient on a turret or progressive press.

Having said that, if it gives you peace of mind, have at it. It certainly won't hurt anything. I might suggest that if you insist on weighing every charge, but want to speed things up, get an electronic scale. Use your beam scale to insure your electronic is accurate. I use an electronic scale. I tare out the primed empty case, throw the powder, then put the case back on the scale. It will read out the charge. Very quick.

Stick with slow burn rate powders until you have ironed out all the quirks of your gear.
These will forgive a little runout while you address issues with scales and powder measures.

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it just needs more voltage

I always check the case, even though I seat the bullet right after charging. Last Summer I replaced several of the shop lights, including the one over my reloading bench, with LED lights. Using 4.gr's of W231 in my 38's can leave too much room for a mistake in my book. I just have an aversion to having open cases of powder in the block. I am never in a hurry and for the most part do my reloading in the Winter thus plenty of time to shoot in the Spring, Summer, & Fall. I clean my brass after every couple of shooting session and put it up for the next Winter. This has worked for the last several years so no reason to change. I simply NEVER take anything for granted.
Also, while weighing every charge may be overkill, with my RCBS charge Master, the next charge is already been done while I have seated the bullet for the last round. JMHO

For the most part you have good procedure. For most ball or smaller flake pistol powder I only weigh to set the powder measure and then check the throw every 20-25 throws. I do CAREFULLY visually inspect each charged case in the block before bullet seating.
I used to have a progressive machine but sold it. I never could get used to not being able to easily visually inspect the charged case. I shot thousands of rounds loaded on it but just never got comfortable.
I only weigh each charge for extruded rifle powder.

My 2 cents worth.

IMHO you have a very well thought out process. I like the multiple loading block scenario. I do something similar. Have the difference between where primed cases are picked up from be entirely different than where charged cases are placed.

I'd be a little cautious with a statement "Can't be more careful than I am." One never knows where Murphy will arrive.

Three things I do I thought I'd share:
* I once mis-set my balance beam scale. Weighing stuff (whether every charge or a periodic sampling) does no good if the scale is set wrong. Fortunately when I mis-set mine I went low - setting it for 2.8gr rather than 3.8gr. (I use a single stage press and after my powder measure is throwing correctly I check every 10 cases to be sure things aren't moving. As I went through my process I was confirming what I thought was 3.8gr; but in reality I was confirming 2.8gr.) I caught it before I'd seated bullets. As a result I made a set of tables shown in the pic. I printed them out and I hung them by my scale. So when I set my scale and I think the powder measure is right I'll dial the scale up for 2x or 3x charges then I'll throw the appropriate number of charges in the pan and see if it comes out right.
* I try to do a semi-continuous scan through the whole charging/seating process. Is the scale right? Am I using the right powder? Etc. (This is how I caught the mis-set scale described above.)
* I *LOOK* into the cartridge before placing powder in. I confirm I can see the primer from the inside. Once I had tumbling media caked in the bottom of the case and when I turned the case over nothing came out. But when I charged the case (.223 - so >50% case fill) powder spilled all over the place. But it would be easy to get a squib if there was some residue of something in front of the primer but behind the powder.

OR

Your reloading procedure is a very wise one. When using my single stage RCBS Rockchucker, I too verify each charged case before seating bullets. On my Dillon progressive, I verify each charged case as it leaves the charging station.

One word of caution: I used to put my charged cases into a loading block, front to back. I was nearly finished with charging when I jostled my own arm against something and spilled a charged case over a block full of charged cases. Needless to say, I had to dump all the charges and start over again. Since then, I place charged cases in the loading block, back to front.

I have Dillon's Powder Check System on my XL650. While it won't tell you a charge is a grain light or heavy, it will sound an alarm in the presence of a no-charge or double-charge.

I also saw a photo on the Internet of a 650 with a mirror installed in place of the Powder Check System that was angled so the operator could see down into each case. I don't know that I would want to reload without one of those safety nets, not so much for double-charges for I don't see how that could happen unless the operator removed and replaced cases in the wrong order but for no-charges and the risk of a bullet stuck in a bore.

Ed

My powder check die will show over/under charges of far less than 1 grain. It's not automatic. You have to set the die so that it "zeroes" out at the proper charge. You then have to look at the die on the top of the stroke each and every case after charging. If you are running mixed headstamps, you will get some false positives as case capacity may differ some with a few headstamps. I've not had to spend a lot of time checking false positives with this. From experimentation I have concluded that I can identify an over/under much more accurately and precisely with a powder check die, than by eyeballing them in a block.

Again, they work well on turrets and progressives, not really appropriate for SS.

And as long as you actually do that . . . almost no matter how you do that . . . you will be fine.

Many folks think they have checked every round appropriately . . . right up until the time some distraction, malfunction, brain fart, or other begins the chain of events leading to a problem.

To me, the best element to add is to choose a powder that makes it impossible to dangerously over- or double-charge . . . or at least extremely difficult not to notice when trying to seat a bullet.

I forgot to mention that before every session I make sure the scale is accurate with a 5 grain check weight, then take that off and put the empty pan on there, and make sure it is zeroed at zero.

As for electronic scale, I had one and it wasn't consistent enough. And the 7625 I am using drops dead on at 4.6 every time. Still, I'm in no rush so I weight every charge. The weights are already set to 4.6 so when I drop the powder into the pan and put it on the scale, it goes right to dead center. Yes, I know I am probably wasting time weighing every one, but it gives me peace of mind and I am in no rush.

Also, my loading bench is actually 2 right next to each other, so the green one is on the bench right next to the main one(they touch so it's only about 2 feet from the scale to the green block. Just a simple turn of the body. Never dropped one yet, but if I do, I'll just drop more powder.

As for double filling, until the powder is about to go into the case, they are primer side up, either in the block or the funnel. No chance of them having powder in them. When I go to dump I look into the case anyway to make sure it's empty.

As for Murphy's Law, those are rules I live by, and my last name IS Murphy!

Load with a single stage press.

When loading pistol I will generally check powder weight every 5th load.

Once I pick up a primed case, I powder charge then immediately seat the bullet. That way there is no possible way to throw a double charge.

Once all the rounds in the block have been seated I go back and crimp the rounds.

I batch loaded for years using a powder measure and weighing every tenth charge,then I'd inspect the block of cases before seating bullets.That was until I made a pair of squibs.Those two empty cases obviously didn't register and I saw what I expected to see. Now I dump the powder in the case,look in there to make sure and seat a bullet.

If you do not need mass quantities of ammo then your stated method is about as good as it gets, I load 308 rifle pretty much the same way but have faith in my RCBS powder measure that once set it delivers the same charge every time. I do random checks by weighing a charge every so often.

The two loading block method is the same

For handgun I have faith in my Turret press and the powder measure and use medium to slow powder so a double charge would readily be noticed, but I am still checking while it is on the press before seating the bullet.

You are doing well Grasshopper

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Still Running Against the Wind

Guys blow up guns all the time for many reasons. All are some from inattention though. Either a double charge of uberfast powder or the wrong powder for that data, squib, etc. Why I like powders that fill a case at least 1/3 full, 1/2 is better. Then it is an easy visual verification something is wrong before seating a bullet. This can happen on an style press, but manual indexing progressives are the ones that bite the un attentive.
Double check your data & the powder prior to reloading. Develop a proper technique of charging cases, checking powder levels & then seating bullets, as you have. Again goes for any press. Once you become a handle puller, relying on a machine to catch the mistake, you are setting yourself up for a kb. Machines go out of spec, batteries die, lots of things to go wrong if you are NOT paying attention.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Another way I teach for ss guys;
All cases are turned case head up. Turn the case over & charge it. Do this for the entire block. Then visually inspect one final time before placing all your bullets & then seat. It should be impossible to double a charge, as you are only charging a case you turn over. Way faster for batch loading.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

That's exactly how I do it. I turn them open end up to drop the powder than place the charged case in a separate loading block. Then check all with flashlight and then seat all at once. When done, crimp and throw in completed bucket.

When I first started handloading many years I carefully weighed every
charge and would not even consider buying a measure. Finally
realized what a tremendous waste of time that was and acquired
several measures. After a few spills and having to start over using
loading blocks I quit using them. I now charge one case, look inside,
pick up a bullet, start it and seat it. Once I pick up the case I don't
let go of it until it's a loaded round. A foolproof method in my opinion.

And can do it pretty quickly. I use the closest Lee scoop to throw the powder on the scale, the use my Redding trickler to add a few tenths of a grain until it balances. Sometimes not shaking the scoop level will give you close to your target too, so you don't need to be careful with the scoops as long as it throws under the target weight.

PS. And thanks for the heads-up. I try to keep a consistent plan to keep from overdoing it and you just can't be too careful.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

The problem comes in when a light charge allows a bullet to be stuck in the barrel, and the next round fired will bulge the barrel or worse. If a shot doesn't sound/feel right be sure to check your barrel. I've got a wooden dowel to check the barrel with so I don't have to take apart the pistol. A pen light is good, too.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Yes, just painfully slow.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

I took your advice and switched my routine. Rather than charge 50 cases at once and then check each with a light and then seat all 50, I now charge the case, put it in the press, and seat the bullet. No chance of double charging and no worries of spilling a case into the rest in the loading block (I did that once and had to dump them all and re-start). When all are seated, I crimp them all at once. I still weigh every charge though. Not gonna stop doing that. 10 seconds per round is worth my peace of mind. I'm not in a rush anyway.

Makes things easier. If I get called away after 6 rounds loaded, it's no big deal. Just pick up where I left off.

My first rule is ONE and only ONE powder on the bench at a time. Once through with the powder, it goes back into the container then into the cabinet. Then the next powder comes out.

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Ricky
Coastal GA

I, too, have modified my procedure as a result of this thread. Last night I loaded up some test loads and I did the seat-bullet-immediately-after-charging routine. I was a little worried I was going to have too many steps which could lead to not doing something consistently. (In general I'd rather do one or two steps a bunch of times and then go on to doing one or two additional steps.)

Overall the seat-immediately went well and I think I'll keep with it for the time being.

OR

To each their own to achieve satisfaction.

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S&WHF 366

I prefer to reload with a single stage press, using slightly different processes for pistol and rifle ammunition. For general purpose pistol rounds I use a Lee auto-disc powder measure and verify charge weight with an electronic scale at the start of each 100 round batch. When the reloading blocks are full I give them a few taps to "settle" the powder and using a penlight, visually check each round to make certain the powder levels are even. For rifle rounds I weigh each and every charge with an electronic scale.

I treat COAL the same way. I'll measure completed pistol round COAL until the length is consistent and repeatable then run through the batch. As part of my final inspection process, COAL of each rifle round is measured.

Other safe reloading practices I adhere to, in no particular order.
Maintain a clean, well lit work area.
One powder on the bench at a time
Wear safety glasses
Avoid distraction
Take appropriate precautions handling lead

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"Shall not be infringed"

Good advice, and as as an extra precaution I like to mark the current powder being used on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the powder drop (or in my case my Chargemaster 1500). Here's why I learned to do this method: One time years ago I was loading W748 ball powder (* I think*) and finished the 1lb can and threw it in the trash (yup, a novice mistake). Went on vacation , came back and could not remember what powder was in the hopper. My son had also went to the dump and threw out my trash which had the empty powder bottle. Ended up throwing out the remaining powder in the hopper as I was not exactly sure what powder I was working. I load 9 different calibers, and 11 different powders AND I have 3 different powder throwers, so It can get a little confusing unless you have a solid labeling method regiment !

I follow a similar regimen. I have over 50 different powders on hand so I absolutely NEVER have more than one container of it on the bench at any time. I also have labels on the five tool heads for my Dillon 650 that identify the caliber of each as well as the powder charge for which each measure is set.

The more reloading "stuff" you accumulate and the older you get, the more you need helpful practices like those.

Finally, back when I used one powder measure for all my reloading, I positively HAD to empty it after every session for it is amazing how much alike some powders can look and perhaps weeks later, it can be hard to recall which one you left in the reservoir. Also, some powders will etch some plastics, so emptying those measures is a good idea for that reason too.

Ed

Way I see it you are doing it all right. I once made the mistake on my balance scale with 5 gram and .5 on the fine adjustment when loading 41 mag. Well low charge and a stuck JP round.

Learned to double check with a test weight.

kbm6893,
I started reloading in 1967, benn at it a while, and I use nearly the same procedure you use. The only deviation is charging handgun cases. I use a Lyman 55 (check every 10th drop against scale) or I use a dipper. Scooped powder charges are accurate and you watch how much goes in the case, all are checked via flashlight of course.
You may get flak from those who believe only progressive presses are suitable , they will say you must have a Dillion XL 650 Super Progressive or you are wasting your time....But don't believe it.
Your way is just fine I been doing it for nearly 50 years....
So you just keep on keepin' on buddy and load safe !
Gary

5 grain or 5 gram ? or typo ?

Thanks! Don't see myself changing. I stick with what I know works, and gunpowder and primers make me want to stay with what I know!

I've been reloading since the late '70's.

Looks like you are doing everything properly.

Can't be too anal when it comes to reloading, and I'm a P.E.

Lots of good info from other posters.

I generally use the slowest powder I can for a given application and try to fill, or slightly compress the powder. This makes a double charge virtually impossible.

Flashlight check is imperative.

I have a Dillon 650, and the reason I bought it was because of the powder check feature. I only use this for practice ammo.

As an interim, you might want to consider a Redding T-7. Not cheap but built like a tank. I have a head for each caliber.

I size, deprime, and bell in one operation. Charge the cases in a manner similar to yours, using an old Lyman 55, and then seat and crimp in another operation. Not terribly fast, but who cares. My ammo consistently out performs premium factory stuff.

BTW, stay safe on the job - most of us civilian CCW's have your six if requested.

S/F,

RAS (aka Walter)

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A man's got to know his limita

Proof loads are way hotter than you can imagine. I can't explain some of the 'blowups' but I doubt they were from double charges. I think some 'blowups' are the frame finally letting go after numerous over loaded rounds.

I thought I'd add another item here........

No matter what procedures we use - we need to be diligent about seeing what we want to see. Somewhere in this thread or a couple of other possible threads someone relayed the story where, even though they use a flashlight to look in every case, they didn't see (it didn't register) that one was empty.

I think in all sorts of steps (grabbing powder, setting the scale, grabbing bullets, whatever) it is easy to think we're seeing what we're seeing when in reality we're not. It has happened to me setting my scale: I was SURE I set it correctly but I checked it a few minutes later and I hadn't. It could happen with the seat-bullet-immediately process as well: "Yeah - I see powder in there."

In aviation there is the concept of "Automatic Rough". (If I get this wrong, pilots, jump in.) From what I understand this happens when your senses are heightened - like flying at night or over water. Your concern for engine troubles go up - and you start imagining misfires when they're not really there. Things being looked for become registered as reality - when in fact they're not.

Just another thing to keep in mind - even when we're convinced we have processes that are "infallible".

OR

There's worlds of info and research out there about quality processes and ensuring quality. I'd just say, in addition to having a routine that is safe, you should try to consider how bad things can go when you don't stick to it. People are not consistent. Picking a routine that reduces the risk from inattention or distraction is also a good idea.

You weigh every charge out, yet you leave up to 50 charged cases sitting around open just waiting for something wrong to happen to them. Why not seat a bullet on each case after weighing? This way the critical process, the powder charge, only has to be tracked for one round at any given time, not 50 rounds.

If the phone or doorbell rings, or the dog barges in, or whatever, you only have to finish one round and you can walk away. When you come back it is easy to pick up again, because there are only complete or empty cases.

Things like sizing, expanding, priming can be done 50 (or whatever) at a time, because they are not critical operations. You won't blow a gun up from a double primed case. And an non-primed one won't create a squib.

one thing some loaders fail to do is when changing powder in a dropper, always be sure all powder has been removed before changing especially when going from a pistol powder to a rifle powder...even if you are going to drop, then weigh.

There are dozens of good safety precautions to follow. It boils down to the fact that we humans are creatures of habit so we should make those habits safe ones.

Ed

many good procedures mentioned here, but as the last few posts have identified, the "human error" factor is always lurking around the corner.

Distractions and mental breaks can derail even the best procedures, when reloading, I'm kinda funny, I wont carry on a conversation with anyone, if they walk in the reloading room. I stop what I'm doing and get up from the bench till they leave.

The worst mistakes are the ones you have no idea you're making. It's hard to catch something wrong when your mind is telling you you are doing right. Gotta be willing to do some self examination.

Someone mentioned pulling powder data off the wrong line in their manual in another thread. With my eyes that's a valid concern and some powders have similar names. To minimize chances of this I started highlighting the load I want so I can pick it out easily. If using a load right next to one I have highlighted I use a different color highlighter and leave the highlighter right there to indicate which line I am looking at. I can totally see myself making that mistake without the highlighter.

Another way might be to copy the load info down and tape it on the powder hopper or bench.

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Trucks and guns.

Good reminder on getting data from the wrong line.

When I first started loading 9mm I would open my manual and on a couple of occasions the load data didn't seem quite right. I was seeing the numbers on the page - but they weren't aligning with the data I was familiar with.

Then I noticed I'd opened to 9mm LARGO data, not 9mm LUGER. 9mm Largo is the caliber right after 9mm Luger in my manual.

I ended up putting a post-it note on every 9mm Largo page that says "NOT 9mm LUGER!"

All good advice.

I am really old school and long ago subscribed to the one bullet, one load concept. I have an index card with each bullet and each load. One card is on the bench when I am reloading as well as only one can of powder.

Another habit I have gotten into is verifying calibration / zero on the scale at the start of each loading session.

Sounds pretty good to me. Only things I would add are:

1. Keep your ashtray at least a foot away from powder measure, scale, and charged cases.
2. Drink only just enough beer to get in the mood before reloading. Don't overdo it.
3. Make sure you have a large enough hammer on hand so that you can force things that don't want to work the way you think they should.

1. Be very thorough is setting your powder measure. I always throw 5 charges together, weigh them, and divide by 5 until it is set correctly. I do not trust weighing only one charge. Double check by throwing and weighing 5 more charges.
2. Always charge all cases in the tray at once, and inspect each case using a flashlight to see if there are any apparent over or under charges - inspect twice before seating the bullet.