Beginning to reload .45acp for a semi-auto.
I am using a set of RCBS dies.

My steps:
1. resize, decap and prime
2. bell case mouth
3. charge with powder
4. seat bullet without crimping (cast lead bullet)
5. taper crimp

*** sometimes the tamper crimp dies will seat the bullet too deep.

Is this problem because I am belling the case mouth too much?

Pictures of the rounds after each step would go a long way toward solving this.

Hard to answer your question but as a general rule you never flare the case mouth any more than you absolutely have to in order to avoid shaving lead. Try a little less flare and see if you notice an improvement.

If you can set your bullet in your flared case, you have enough flare. If the bullet won't quite fit in the case, you need a bit more flare

You should bell the case just enough that you don't shave lead.

How are determining the amount of crimp? You don't need much.

My method us to strip the pistol and remove barrel. Drop cartridge into breech before adding any crimp. If it won't drop in freely or drop back out without help, add a little crimp. No more than 1/4 turn. Repeat in tiny increments until cartridge chambers and un chambers freely. Then STOP adding crimp.

Remember that taper crimping for autos serves a different purpose than roll crimping for revolvers. Taper crimping does not hold the bullet tighter or prevent setback. It is simply for removing the belling. Do as little as necessary to ensure reliable feeding.

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Common sense isn't so common.

Is the die you are taper crimping with a crimp only die? Or are you using a second seating/crimp die for this operation? If you are using a seating/crimp die, make sure the seating plug is backed way off or not even installed.

Mike

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NRA Certified Pistol Inst.

In the days of old when I shot a few thousand rounds a month out of accurized Colt government models I found my seating depth by loading into the chamber a loosely fitted bullet so it would stop being pushed back into the unprimed case when the bullet engaged the lands in the barrel.

The OAL was then measured for that bullet type.

I found that for the best accuracy the bullet needed to be engaged with the lands when chambered.

I used mostly 200gr lead bullets so I used a rolled crimp.

In those days I loaded practice ammo on a Star Machine and match ammo one at a time on a Rock Chucker.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

Jimmy,

Your procedure is correct.

I echo the advice to minimize flare.

I also use the RCBS taper crimp set and find it easy to seat and crimp in one step. Just takes a bit more patience getting the adjustments set just right.

By all means do the "plunk test" on finished rounds. I also use a case gage because the plunk test doesn't check the case head/rim for irregularities.

Finally, the plunk isn't usually a plunk when loading cast lead bullets. They often need a gentle shove to go in all the way. But that's ok.

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USAF, 69-92
Vietnam, 72-73

You need to add a step 0. Check primer size on all brass. Someone insidious has started making .45 acp cases with small primers. If I ever run into said person, I will have some choice words to say.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

How deep is "too deep"?

A while back I was educated that a couple thousandths variance is no big deal.
Are your rounds within the range of a box of factory ammo? On a suggestion, I measured the COL of a random sample of factory ammo, and mine is way more consistent than theirs.

Most loading manuals show a cartridge diagram indicating dimensions at the case mouth. I try to make sure the taper crimp die
forms the case mouth to that dimension. .473" is what my Hornady manual shows and bullet seating has been fine.
I do agree that anything more than what is needed in head neck expansion could , is, a potential problem.
Good luck. .45 Auto is a pleasure to handload once those dies are set.
Jim

Check the case length's. longer cases will appear to have deeper seated bullets than a shorter case. That's the simplest explaination.

See all of the above. More detailed information is always useful with these types of question. Have you measured the OAL before and after the crimp step to determine that it is happening in the crimp stage and not just variation in the seating stage? If your dies are set correctly, the bullet shouldn't seat deeper during crimping (assuming you are using a crimp die and not a second seating/crimp die). BTW, sizing/decapping die is set correctly (just touching the shell plate) to bring the brass back to spec.

I got tired of people picking up my 45 ACP cases at 3-gun matches so I bought a case of Blazer Brass 45 ACP which has small primers. I intend to shoot those and leave them lie. I hope all the brass stealers have fun with them (evil laugh).

Mike

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NRA Certified Pistol Inst.

No reason a properly adjusted taper crimp die, should shorten your cartridge OAL.

I crimp as a separate step from seating, & w/ .452" cast bullets, crimp to .470" - .472".

You might want to try a Lyman "M" expander die. Eliminates the "bell", & provides something of a bullet slip fit, instead. They are easier on the brass (in theory), are properly sized for cast bullets, & as you don't have to balance the bullet on a minimum sized bell, promotes straight seating - w/ little effort.

I use them for .45, & .38 / .357.

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Regards - GCF

He's probably retired to a golf resort by now. The small pistol primer .45s started appearing at least 10 years ago. They work just fine, using exact same loads as large primer.

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USAF, 69-92
Vietnam, 72-73

I don't use a combination seater crimper die anymore. I use separate dies. Some say that's not necessary and maybe it isn't but I just got tired of getting the adjustment just right. Went over to the dark side a long time ago. LFCD. One extra step, less cussing.

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That's just somebody talkin.

That's just plain mean.

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That's just somebody talkin.