I am new to reloading pistol calibers, in this case 45acp.

there are many shapes:
Round nose flat base
Round nose hollow base
Flat nose
Semi wadcutter
wadcutter

then there is the plated vs lead
Lead and hard cast
And Hollow point
it seems to go on and on not to mention the wadcutters have every shape under the sun

is there some way for me to figure out what all these shapes are about?

I will be shooting Revolver 45acp and semi auto

Hi. In short,

Round nose bullets tend to provide reliable feeding in a semi-auto.
Round nose hollow points provide expansion, and usually provide reliable feeding in a semi-auto.
Wadcutters are a type of target bullet that punches nice holes in targets, and typically doesn't feed in a semi-auto, with the exception being the Smith and Wesson model 52 and similar semi-autos.
Semi-wadcutters are target bullets designed for both revolvers and semi-autos that have been throated, and punch nice holes like wadcutters.
Full metal jacketed bullets don't deform, and can wear barrels over time.
Semi-jacketed bullets provide expansion, and the jacket eliminates the need for bullet lubricant.
Lead bullets can be cast (harder) or swaged (soft), and require some type of lubricant (bees wax/allox blend, or silica), or they can be plated.

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Judge control not gun control!

You didn't mention your intended use of the bullets you will buy but if punching paper is your main goal, cast lead bullets are fine. They will even suffice for hunting.

Your revolver will digest any shape but might be more accurate with one over the others. I shoot three 1911s in .45ACP and they all feed semi-wadcutters from Missouri Bullets and Precision Delta without a hitch. I especially like Precision Delta's 185-grain SWC hollow-point (it didn't come without the HP the last time I ordered some) and they offer a "match lube" for a few bucks extra that is so clean that I didn't think there was any lube on the first batch I got so I called them.

As you mentioned, full wadcutters for the .38 Special, for example, come as bevel-base, double-ended, hollow-base and there might be some I've forgotten. Hollow-base was always and I believe still is the choice of serious match shooters as they usually are the most accurate. A lot of bullet companies don't offer the HBWC due to manufacturing difficulties but Precision Delta does with or without their match lube.

Other options like coatings are interesting. If I buy from a firm that doesn't offer a lubricant like PD's match lube, I buy their coated bullets. Missouri Bullets is a good example and I use their coated 125-grain SWCs in my .38 Super. They feed well, generate little smoke, shoot accurately and leave the barrel clean. I've never felt a need to use plated bullets in a centerfire handgun but that is all I use in my .22LR ammo. I use CCI MiniMags in my handguns and Federal GameShok hollow-points in my rifles.

Hardness adds yet another area of consideration. Missouri Bullets has a really good tutorial on their website about selecting bullet hardness that blows a huge hole in the old theory about harder always being better.

I know those choices can become confusing but just think how boring it would be if we didn't have those options.

Ed

I should add that almost all bullets are lead. The difference is, are they pure (soft) lead, or are they Hard cast...with added elements mixed in to increase their hardness. Some have no external coating, so they're more than likely hard cast. Others have been chemical plated with a thin copper jacket, or have a thicker swaged copper jacket. Round nose bullets feed better in autos, and are also important for use in lever guns where you dont want a pointed bullet resting on the primer of the round in front of it in a tubular magazine. There are MANY different bullet shapes, but most are either spitzer (pointed tip), round nose, hollow point (for expansion) flat nose, or one of the many variants of wadcutter. Wadcutters are always target bullets which aid in cleaner holes in paper to make scoring easier. Hollow base bullets...they're intended purpose is sometimes argued. Mainly, the hollow base bullets were some of the oldest design. Old "miniballs" used in muzzle loaders were and are hollow base. In their case, the base is intended to expand hen fired and help with accuracy by fitting the bore tighter. Some hollow base bullets are designed that way so they can be made longer, for more bullet surface area to engage rifling and thus increased accuracy. These days most modern firearms shoot solid base bullets but you can still buy hollow base bullets from companies like Extreme. Some rifle bullets are also called "boat tail" bullets. These have a tapered shape at the base to reduce drag during flight and are intended for long range accuracy. This is just a quick explanation on a very deep topic. I'm sure there are several very thick books out there somewhere that cover it all in detail.

thanks for the detailed explanations.

The intended purpose for pistol reloads is targets, paper and steel.

Neither of my guns have been throated. does mean some bullets will not chamber correctly?

For my Kimber 1911 and S&W 625JM it sounds like I should be using RN & HP & SWC

WC's come with and without grooves. Is this a crimp issue or a preference.

Is there one type that is very accurate and that I can use in both type guns? Like the Precision Delta 185 gr SWC HP

sorry for all the questions. Like to get started without buying the wrong bullets.

Yes you can use the same bullet in a 1911 and a 625 . They are both 45 ACP

I like Precision Delta but they are not the least expensive bullet.

You looking at lead or Jacketed?

They make a HP but not a SWC HP??

HP are usually more than flat nose or RN.

SWC bullets are trickier to seat properly and feed in a semi auto for a new reloader. Flat nose are a lot easier and make nice holes in paper,

Which one are you looking at???

https://www.precisiondelta.com/produ...ts/45-cal.html

Pistol Bullet Basics | Ultimate Reloader

Lead are the least expensive (smoke and possible leading)

Then coated lead, (no smoke no leading, the new greatest thing)

Then plated, no leading, safe inside ranges, not cheap any more

and finally jacketed, most expensive, no lead, no smoke,

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Still Running Against the Wind

All of those shapes will work in both guns except the wadcutter,which will work in a revolver.There was a time long ago when a round nose was needed to feed properly in a 1911,but those days are long past.Swaged lead bullets work nicely if you keep them below 800fps,but most of us just use cast.This is a great time to get into reloading,the selection of off the shelf bullets has never been this good.

these links may help.....

Ammunition - Acronyms and Features

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliber

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There's nowt so queer as folk

How recent is the manufacture of your Kimber? It is possible that it was throated at the factory, depending upon the model. You can always contact Kimber Customer Service with your pistol's S/N and they should be able to tell you.

If I were you, I would be loading either 185gr or 200gr SWC in both 45s, provided that the guns liked the same load. You may find that both handguns will shoot the same bullet with the same powder charge, but there isn't a guarantee on that. For example, you may find that your 1911 shoots more accurately with 5.1gr of 231 behind the 200gr SWC, while the 625 shoots the same bullet accurately, but using only 4.8gr of 231. Basically, you need to spend time developing a load for each handgun,

One thing that you need to keep in mind is that if you shoot lead SWCs, they will not generate the velocity and pressure of jacketed bullets. If you do switch to lead SWC bullets, you will have to swap out the recoil spring to maintain the proper timing, so you don't have FTF or FTE issues. Usually, shooters that use lead SWC loads install a 12# recoil spring.

I know that this is a lot to digest, but it is stuff that you need to keep in mind in order to maintain proper functioning.

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Judge control not gun control!

I would use either a 185 gr or 200 gr swc loaded to 700-800 fps.Factory springs should be fine and the Kimber will feed them

45- 200 SWC

how about this one? SWC 200gr plated

I haven't tried that particular brand of bullet,but it looks good to me

I also shoot a 1911 and 625-2. I have 2 thoughts to add. My 625 and from what I have read from others is the 625 will shoot almost anything and is very accurate. That being said, if you are trying to develop one load for both guns, I recommend finding something which is reliable and accurate out of your Kimber, then see how it shoots out of your 625.
Another consideration is whether you have a need or desire for a fast reload in your 625. If so, I recommend using a round nose, especially if your chambers are not chamfered. They feed into your chambers much easier than a flat nose, SWC or round shoulder.
I like Berrys' 230 gr RN, Missouri 200 gr RN coated, and just bought some Extreme 200 gr RN. All are functional and accurate for me over 4.2-4.8 grs of Bullseye or 4.9 grs of Tightgroup.

Yes a SWC will work but as a new reloader you will have to "play" with getting the exact COL to feed correctly in your 1911.
A FN or RN is much easier to start with. The 625 it does not matter it will shoot anything

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Still Running Against the Wind

Thank you.

I appreciate you recommendation, as well as all the others that posted responses.

I decided to start with the most common bullet, the 230 gr RN. later perhaps the FN.

will be ordering some bullets this week. Been looking at Ranier and Berry's plated bullets.