I was cleaning my Model 28 after a trip to the range today and noticed for the first time since I bought it, that there is a light flame cut just above the cylinder gap. I realize this is normal, I have had other revolvers that have had similar cuts, but I want to make sure it does not get worse. I had read advice from others to not use light weight bullets for 357 magnum i.e. the 125gr JHPs that I had been loading with, or the faster burning powders I normally use for 38 special or 9mm, but instead use a heavier bullet bullet and a slower powder. I heeded this advice, and started loading 160gr Carroll SWCs (N.O.S. from my favorite LGS) with IMR4227. The Lyman manual suggests for a bullet of this weight a maximum load of 17 grains of 4227, a compressed load, and a minimum of around 14.3 grains. Per my usual protocol, I backed off on my powder charge bringing it down to around 16 grains. Before switching to the Carroll SWCs, I did load a small quantity of rounds using the 125gr JHPs and IMR 4227 powder. I again backed off my powder load, creating a round that felt more akin to a 38 +P than a 357 mag, in hopes to limit wear on my gun. In comparison to this, my loading with the Carroll SWCs definitely were a lot hotter more akin to a factory-loaded 357 mag. After firing only 50 rounds of my SWC loads through the gun, I found the flame cut. I did not notice it Saturday night when I gave it a wipe down before packing it for the range. Previous to this, I had been running a combination of 38 special loads and 125gr 357 loads backed with a couple different powders including HP-38 and Ramshot True Blue, of which I may have run about 200 rounds or so through the gun.

The questions I guess I have are, Do I go back to loading 38 Special exclusively for this gun, in hopes that it will limit further flame cutting? If I stick to the heavier bullets and slower powders, perhaps with a further reduction in my powder charge, can I still load 357 magnum and see little to no exacerbation in the cut line? In case anyone wonders what my typical round count is, I generally hit the range once a week, during which my 28 will see between 50 and 100 rounds. Lately, all of those rounds have been 357 mag, and no 38 special. Is this too much for the gun to handle?

EDIT: I Should add that I see no indication of wear on the forcing cone, just the flame cut.

Of course this could all be moot, the gun was manufactured in 1979, and the line could have formed there long before I took ownership of it, and I have just not noticed it until now.

The flame cutting on the top strap stabilizes and won't cut further. I've run 30k+ rounds of 38 and 357 (mostly 357) through my old 27-2 I bought back in 1974. It shows a bit of flame cutting on the top strap, but hasn't changed in character or depth in ages. I did send it back to the mothership last year to get tuned up and it shoots like new again. Now that I have multiple 27's I don't put so many rounds through it a year. And your 28 is an N frame, so don't worry about hurting it. It's not like a K frame that gets all loosey goosey with a bunch of hot 357s run through it. I am loading mostly 140 grain and heavier bullets nowadays though.

Yep, gas cutting of the top strap is inevitable and self limiting except for a few calibers-most notably the .357 Maximum. The self limiting thing applies to steel and stainless steel guns. Scandium framed guns are a different story.

As a side note, back around 1979 or 1980, I sent a M57 back to Springfield with gas cutting. At that time they added steel by welding and then refinished the frame. I wouldn't count on that ever happening again. I truly believe Smith's CS went above and beyond on that gun, which I own to this day.

Bruce

Suggest you use 158 grain bullets in the .357, it should cut down on the gas cutting.

Why in the world would you use anything but 158 gr projectiles ?

Gas cutting to the top strap is normal, and as others have said, it will reach a certain point, then get no worse. There is no need to "load down", or use special loads in your N frame. It will last many, many thousands of rounds with any sane magnum load. Slower, ball powders seem to have the worse reputation for flame cutting, though, again, its normal with magnum loads. The only powder I have heard of that could be a problem is "Lil Gun". Many users report it runs hotter than other powders, and at least one manufacturer, Freedom Arms, recommends it not be used in its revolvers. No personal experience with this powder though.

Larry

As noted, you can't prevent gas cutting, well unless you just want to shoot gallery type loads. It doesn't get worse passed a certain point. My first S&W has been retimed twice, maybe 30K rds thru it, mostly magnums. The gas cutting never got worse.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

You've got good answers already but the slowest powders are the worst for this. Obviously you like your magnum loads which is great, but if all of them don't have to be barn burners use a little faster powder. And a big bullet.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Your post made me run down in the gun safe and check my model 28-2(4'').I bought it aprox 10 years ago and was almost new(very faint ring between the bolt notches and not a single mark on the recoil shield).Since then,only shot GC lead bullet at mag velocity(166 gr Thompson on top of enough H110 to chrono a little over 1300FPS aprox 3K rds)).Yes,I found some gas cutting.And you know what?I will keep shooting it with that load!
N frames are thick enough to withstand it:I figure that like some other posters said,
A:it'll stop when a certain depth will be reached
B:when it gets there,it will still be thicker than a lot of other .357 topstrap begin with.
So i'll just keep shooting it without worrying.

Enjoy yours...it's an excellent gun!
Qc

Thanks to all who replied, I hoped/kind of expected that I would receive the answer I have been given. Just because The cut is there does not mean I will not be shooting the gun. I buy guns to shoot, no safe queens here (or at least not many). My concern was with minimizing or slowing the cut, which some have offered some good tips, despite being contradictory to previous advice from other forum members. A couple months ago I had posted about loading 357 mag with 125gr JHPs and HP-38, to which many responded that I should be A. using a heavier bullet, and B. I should use a slower powder, hence the switch to IMR4227 from HP-38, Ramshot True Blue and Competition, or 700-X for magnum loads. I heeded this advice to an extent by switching powders, but continued a bit with the JHPs as I had bought a very well-priced bulk box from my LGS, and want to use them up. Once gone, I will be sticking to 158gr and up. Whereas I have had some great success as of late with 4227 powder, I am not particularly fond of it, especially if it is accelerating the flame cutting process. My past experiences, and to a lesser, but still ever present extent, have proven 4227 to be a very dirty powder that leaves behind a lot of residue and un-burnt particles that inevitably end up under my ejector star. Thus, I am ready to go back to a faster powder that leaves less mess.

Thanks again, and suggestions are always welcome. I have been loading my own ammo for around three years now, but I have grown to accept that no length of time in doing something will ever turn me away from sound advice.