Everybody has their preferences. I tried a thin lube for revolver cases and a thicker lube of rifle case. I was still having a lot of effort, chattering and some sticking when resizing. I heard people say that they use Imperial Sizing Wax, so I thought I would give it a spin. I'll never be without it again.

Besides a tiny amount going a long way, the stuff is amazing and has stopped any sizing problems that I had, cold.

The first thing I though was, "Who lubes anything with wax when there are specialized lubes available?"

Well, the difference is so dramatic that I'd suggest that anybody having sizing difficulties give a $6-8 can a try.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I have not had any problems with the RCBS spray.
One just has to know how much to spray on.
Nickel revolver cases in a carbide die: not much at all.
Full length brass cases in a steel die: fully shoot both sides as they sit in a double row tray like the Sinclair.
Sinclair Lube Rack

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NEMO
"Everything 44"

I have some Imperial Sizing Wax, but it seems to me that the Lee Case Sizing Lube works with less force. Dry or "wet".

Either mostly gets used for case IDs. Avoids shoulder stretch with bottleneck cases and scratches/galling with my various custom turned expanders for revolvers.

Imperial wax is the best for when you swage .338 bullets down to .330! It is great for almost every low temp friction application. (Only 318 Wesley Richards & 8x56R Hungarian use this size bullet!)

However, I love the aerosol "One Shot" by Hornady, I seldom use it on reloading anymore, BUT I love it for making vinyl windows slide easier!

Breakfree CLP is fantastic for progressive press rifle resizing with non-carbide dies. Put two to three hundred 223's in a bucket and squirt in a blast of Breakfree and swirl around for a few minutes. If you put a little too much on, just use an unlubed case every other, or every third one. When I did a 20,000 round batch in the 80's this is what kept my sanity! Breakfree won't foul primers, while several similar products will! I still have ammo sized this way from 1984 and it fires fine.

Ivan

For lubing bottle neck rifle brass in lots under 100 Imperial Wax was my former love. I left her to move up in the world to (drum roll please) Chapstick lip balm. Yup. In use the only difference is that you do not have to touch the wax. Working with clean fingers is definitely a step up.

With either, after a few lubed cases have been run in and out of a clean FL die it only takes a band of wax down low around every second or third case. The lube works upward on its own and too much wax dents case shoulders.

The only time I've ever had really brutal resizing problems was factory-fresh Starling .44 Mag brass, in brand-new carbide Lee dies. As in, it took all of my effort on one arm to raise the ram, and two hands to lower it. And it didn't get much better through the rest of the dies.

I spritzed a paper towel with some Frankford Arsenal case lube, wiped down 25 cases, and let it dry. So lubed, I only needed to feed one lubed case in every 3rd or 4th time around.

Note that I haven't played around with rifle cartridges (yet).

Don't ask how I know this but, KY Jelly makes a good case lube also.

Ivan

Wise A,
Either there is old brass stuck to the sides of your carbide sizing ring or is not smooth enough. If the ring is clean I would call Lee expecting an O.K. to mail the die back for a free replacement. I have no doubt that Lee will replace it for free.

P.S. Is it even possible to comment on Ivan's choice of lube without being dinged?

A single can of STP oil additive will last you a lifetime as a case lube. Some liquid soaps are said to work well, but I haven't tried them. I do use STP.

Works great for my .308 's and .223's used to use Lee paste but too messy dries hard causes powder to stick in the neck if you don't clean the cases. long usage too have done about 200 and have much left in the can.

I use either Dillon or Midways spay lube. Both seem to be the same formulation. Works great and have never had a stuck case.

I am still using an old bottle of rcbs, but for tough case forming, imperial is great. You can make your own with lanolin & castor oil, works as well if not better. It is what i use for bullet swaging. Lanolin & 90% alcohol makes a great general sizing lube.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

I use Hornady One Shot Case lube on straight wall pistol cases and Imperial on bottle neck cases. Imperial takes too long on pistol cases but I'm sure it would work great.

I use Dillon spray which is lanolin in an alcohol suspension. FWIW it is also good as a rust preventive because the alcohol evaporates and the lanolin stays as moisture barrier.

Brand new brass, especially from Starline usually needs very little in the way of sizing.
They can be completely oil free however, probably for the only time in their lives unless you wash them with some kind of degreaser.
I have found there is enough natural oil on my fingers that just rubbing the cases with nothing else will noticeably decrease the tension in a carbide die.
Agree about that Lee die. Get a new one. Their service is usually very good.
That was my first 44 mag die.
Still have it and it works but I don't like the profile it gives to the case near the web.
The Redding carbide dies give a much gentler slope to the web at the bottom of a full size.
The only real tension I get from any of these is with nickel cases.
That's when I whisper "lube" over them like adding vermouth to a martini.
I would bet just about anything greasy has been used in a pinch to resize cases.
Just look at some of the things that have been used to lube bullets over the centuries.

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NEMO
"Everything 44"

Metal forming or drawing in dies generally requires a lubricant with what is described as a "High Film Strength," basically the characteristic of a lubricant to maintain an unbroken film over a metal surface under high pressure, i.e., it sticks to the metal surface very tightly. There is a standard test to determine lubricant film strength, but I don't know the details. It's also important in high pressure applications such as gear lubrication. Gear oil and synthetic motor oils have high film strength. STP is essentially a synthetic oil (polyisobutylene plus some additives) having very high shear strength. Regular motor oils, not so much.

Maybe....but how do I explain my wife that it's gonna be used for lubricating brass cases only???Guess I'll stick with DWalt recommendation(STP)!Qc

That's not mine! The neighbor left it here.

I don't need to lube cases too often with the small number of handgun calibers I reload, but when I do, I use an old bottle of RCBS gel case lube. It came with the setup which I bought second hand which was completely RCBS equipment. So I think it might have came with the setup if that is how the guy bought it. Works good.

Sounds like a lot of good options here for when I run out.

Where's that old tube of Brylcreem I bought when I was a punk?
"A little dab'll do ya!"
Home - Brylcreem

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NEMO
"Everything 44"

Keep it with your resizing equipment. Not in your range bag. Or next time you say, "I'm going shooting." your wife may ask sarcastically, "And WHO are going shooting WITH?"

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I don't usually use lubricated cases with carbide dies, but if you do, it makes resizing a little easier at the cost of some time. Probably extends die life also.

Not quite sure you can "wear out" a carbide die with normal use.
The ones I have that are more than 20 even 30 years old are just fine.
It may be an illusion but they seem to be even smoother than when new.
I do "polish" them occasionally with JB compound but that mainly cleans any galled metal off them.
Nickel especially tends to rub off on the carbide if not lubed.

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NEMO
"Everything 44"

It was brand-new and clean, but it was the entire set. I no longer have to lube any .44 Mag cases, after that first set of 25.

...but effort is GREATLY reduced for me with the Imperial wax. If what you have is doing the job for you, great. If you are having a tough time, like me, try the Imperial wax.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I have read that among the other gun related benefits of using Johnson's Paste Wax is that it makes both a good case sizing lubricant and a good cast bullet lube. But I cannot speak from personal experience in such applications. I use it only for waxing both gun metal and wood.

My neighbor never walked in my loading room for the last 20 years.But I'm open to any other suggestion!
Qc

She Did??

I've only used either the original RCBS Case Lube or the water based Case Lube 2 since I started reloading in the 60's. Both have served me well for bottleneck cases, but I've also never done any major case reforming either. The most I've done is resize 7 MM Rem Mag to 264 Mag and 243 and 308 to 260 Remington. And that's just a neck resizing operation. As for pistol cases, I haven't used anything but carbide sizing dies since the 80's and don't need to lube them at all.

Goodness. it's only case lube.

Why mess with a wax type.?

One of the best is the inexpensive LEE Lube.

It is water based and can be diluted with water or rubbing alcohol. Put it in a little spray bottle, shake the heck out of it and spritz your brass. No need to even wipe it off. If you want to, a damp rag is all it takes.

And what is it? It is actually wire pulling lube. You can buy a quart or gallon at Lowes or Homers and have enough for the rest of your life.

Yes, Imperial wax works very well but it is messy and a pain to remove.

The little tube lasts a long time when diluted 50:50 or you can stretch it even further,

Lee Case Sizing Lube 2oz Tube

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Still Running Against the Wind

I have been using Hornady One Shot aerosol,the pump spray is terrible, successfully for a long time but am shocked by it`s ever increasing cost but for now because of my physical need to use it, it`s quick and easy for me, I will bite the bullet and keep using it.
It is nice to see the alternatives in these threads though and hear of other case lubes that reloaders like.
Jim

The only cases I ever stuck were with wire-pulling lube. Never again.

For rifle I still use Imperial Wax...except for 223. I use spray on lube for them(with Dillon Carbide Dies) and you just have to let it dry. I also use carbide dies for pistol loading BUT I also spray them with Hornady or Dillon Spray lubes. Just makes the whole process go easier especially with the Dillon progressives. One day I'll get one of the Dillon 550s and see if I can remember to turn the darn thing. Probably just load 44s on it and I'll spray lube them too

I've tried dozens of case lubes over several decades of reloading from petroleum jelly to imperial wax and I've concluded Hornady one shot is the easiest (spray type) and as fast as anything - however, imperial wax is the best but it's slower and messy.

I use Hornady for brass up to 223 and Imperial Wax for the 308/30-06/300 Weatherby etc. Never ever stuck a case with either lube - can't say that for a few other lubes I've tried.

Well that certainly is definitive proof that what you used must have been no good.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Not that greasy kid stuff.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Hornady Unique, which I use, is similar. Once you work out the teachnique for applying it, anyone would be surprised how little is required.

I have sized over 1,000 rounds using Unique and I've barely broken the surface of the Unique.

I went to work parttime in a LGS in Reno, NV in 1958. I became the shop's official reloader. The shop specialized in custom rifles with the biggest seller being the wildcat forerunner to the 7 mm Rem. Mag. The Owner and Chief Gunsmith showed me the use of STP for my sizing lube and I have never looked back. I had a well worn Ford PU so I would put about 3/4s to 7/8s of a can in the crankcase and then the rest into a small container. I then put some on a pad made originally to be an ink pad. I would roll my 300 H&H cases on the pad and then dip the neck into a 35 mm film canister that had #12 birdshot with lots of white graphite. With a case lubed like that it was no effort to full length resize it thru a size die. I still do heavy resizing that way. After trimming to length, those cases could be loaded for fireforming and then wiped off with a cloth with a little alcohol. Some of those custom rifles went to the customer with 100 to 200 fire formed and loaded cartridges.

BTW, one of our customers was a Aircraft Engine Mechanic. He owned a Luscombe 8A with a small Lycoming air cooled engine. It was well worn so he used STP in the crankcase. He was returning to Reno from Fallon and was just clearing the mountain ridge when the crankcase oil drain plug vibrated out. He admitted that was his fault. He recognized the problem and throttled back until the engine was barely developing power. He made another 10 miles in a descent to the airport. The engine never did seize, but it did have to be rebuilt. He always claimed that if it weren't for his use of STP he would have had to crash land in those mountains near Virginia City. Not real appealing. ....

Here is a older post and reply from RCBS: It is not mine.

Take it FWIW.

"Called RCBS again yesterday, and sent them an e-mail regarding the stuck .223. Explained that out of the thousands of rifle rounds I've loaded, the ONLY stuck cases I've had have been as of very recent--when I decided to give Imperial a try.

Here is the response from RCBS--

Quote:
Hi
Return the die to us and we will remove the stuck case and replace any
damaged components. You want to avoid lube that is wax based or has any
wax products in the ingredients. 95% of the stuck cases we get back
here are due to wax based lube.

What happens is that the wax builds up inside the die and is like rubber
cement in there and the cases will get stuck every time. Your die is
under warranty and there is no problem sending it back to us. Have a
great day! "

Also here is the MSDS for Hornady Unique lube (similar to Imperial) but Imperial does not release their "secret proprietary formula"

Bottom line you can stick a case with any kind of lube if you do not use enough or incorrectly.

Think of all the minks that have died

Mink oil, paraffin, tallow

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/..._Lube_MSDS.pdf

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Still Running Against the Wind

Don't forget WHALE OIL!!!

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

STP works just as well as a case forming lubricant as it does for resizing. I don't form cases so much anymore, but I still do occasionally. For me, another essential item for resizing bottlenecked rifle cases is powdered graphite - I have a little device made for that purpose that has several different sized wire brushes and a trough for the powdered graphite. It applies graphite to the inside of the case neck. Makes lubrication of the neck during the upstroke over the expander ball very easy.

Whale oil works very well..but since we can't get it here any longer I won't waste what little I have left on sizing cases. I doubt you can even get it from Russia or Japan any longer. I used the majority of my last bluing guns

I like mixing my own stuff -- Ed's Red for cleaning, Felix world famous cast bullet lube and lanolin oil mixed with 90% alcohol in a spray bottle for case lube.

I've tried several case lubes over the years.

I use Hornady One Shot on pistol cases with carbide dies. Lay them flat on an old cookie pan and a light spray of One Shot.
Just makes everything operate smoother on the progressive press.

And Imperial Sizing Wax on Rifle cases. I started using it 2 or 3 years ago when re-forming .308 brass into 6.5 Creedmoor brass. It works Great.

Send me your name and address and I will send you some Manatee Oil. It is just as good.

( I love these guys, they are so cool)

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Still Running Against the Wind