Do you weigh commercially bought bullets?

[Scooter1942]

I just received a bunch of bullets from Rim Rock and have more inbound from Montana Bullet Works. I don't make my own bullets, and have always relied on commercial outfits for my bullets.

I'm curious to know whether you build your loads based upon the manufacturers advertised weight, or whether you weigh bullets before working up loads?

I ordered some .45 270's that came in at 267gr and some .44 255's that came in at 262gr. I also ordered some 220 gr 10mm that came in at 224gr. On the other hand, my .44 240's and 45 255's from Missouri Bullet Co all land within 2/10ths of a grain from the advertised weight.

Is that kind of variance typical? Is it enough of a difference to impact how I approach loads that are approaching max?

[Alk8944]

2/10 grain weight variance for cast bullets is excellent. Weights more normally will vary +/- 5% or close to it. Any variation of 5% doesn't need to be considered for cast bullets, accept them at makers advertised weight. Short answer, NO, it isn't necessary.

Jacketed bullets for use in bench-rest caliber rifles are a completely different matter.

[alwslate]

I have weighed commercial magma cast bullets from various vendors. The 158 gr cast SWCs usually weigh around 155-156 grs. The 255 gr .45 caliber SWCs and the 250 gr RNFPs usually both weigh around 262 grs. I don't worry about it.

[robertrwalsh]

I will typically weigh a small number from a batch just to ensure that they did not by mistake send me the wrong thing (i.e. 230 gn plated instead of 200 gn plated).

[Forrest r]

I would be more concerned with the diameter of the bullets being consistent.

[stansdds]

I typically will pull several bullets from a box to weigh and measure. I do look for consistency, or more importantly, inconsistency. Bullets that are inconsistent get used, but my expectation for accuracy from such is adjusted accordingly.

[Ivan the Butcher]

The front curve of the jacketed bullet is called the ogive. That pretty much determines how well the bullet flies (very over simplified!).

A friend of mine was loading 6.5x284 in a custom rifle and heard that Sierra used 3 sets of equipment to make the 6.5mm bullets. He would buy 500 packs, and use a Sinclair Bullet Comparator to check the ogive on every bullet. On a batch of 500 he would have 3 bowls of bullets approximately equal in number. Those bullets were kept seperate for loading.

I have shot that rifle, and got one hole groups out to 300 yards! He had shot that rifle out 800 and at that distance had 1" groups. That rifle went to Iraq in 2007, along with 200 rounds of that ammo. He got it back from The Seals in 2009 with the ammo case. 18 rounds had been fired, and there was a nice note saying 8 turbans had gone to see Allah.

Attention to tiny or small details really matter at long distance. But problems don't usually show up until around 500 yards.

Ivan

[mikerjf]

I want to ‘like’ this whole thread! Learned something with every response.

[mtgianni]

The variance shown may throw your groups off at the 25 yard line by up to 1/4".

[jake1945]

Ah! Something else to consider. I don't normally load for long distance accuracy. If I hit a man sized target at 300 yards in the critical upper torso area, I'm OK with that. At closer distance, 10-20 yards, same thing with handgun.

[IAM Rand]

I cast my own bullets. Not an easy task to get the bullets to all weigh the same. I don't bother weighing them until I start to reload. I lump all the bullets that are within 5 grains +\-.

If I was really worried about it I would weigh and shave the bullets to a mutual weight. If I did that I would be casting all day for maybe 50 bullets.

[rockquarry]

I cast my own, but if I used commercial bullets that needed to be weighed, I'd buy elsewhere. However, if I was buying, I'd try at least three or four (more is better) different makers before buying a large quantity. Almost always, one will outshoot the others; fit will be better, the alloy will be more suitable for your load, minimal to no leading, etc.

Trying only one bullet can be a big mistake with results being mediocre to poor.

[LoboGunLeather]

Mold manufacturers assign designations to molds based upon finished weight and diameter when cast with a specific lead alloy. For Lyman that is usually Lyman #2 alloy, one part tin to ten parts lead.

Different alloys will display differences in both weight and as-cast diameter. The different metals commonly used (lead, tin, antimony) all have different densities and mass per volume, and all will affect mold-filling and shrinkage during return to solid from liquid state.

I regularly cast pistol bullets with alloys suited for the intended uses. A 358-158SWC mold (usually expected to produce a .358" 158-grain bullet) will produce .358-154 using wheel weights, .3584-150 using 70% wheel weights/30% linotype, and .359-147 using straight linotype. The only differences being the metal alloy in use.

In .30 caliber rifle I use a lot of C309-170RF, a gas-check design for .309" 170-grain RN-flat point. Most of my uses are in the range of 2000-2300FPS, thus requiring a strong bullet metal. I alloy 50% wheel weights with 50% linotype resulting in as-cast .3095" 160-grain. Run through a .308" sizer results in spring-back to .3088", lubed and gas-checked at 166 grains.

Two identical molds from the same manufacturer are likely to produce slightly different results using the same alloy, temperatures, casting technique due to manufacturing tolerances and tool wear during each production cycle.

The only way the producer can tell the results of each production batch will be to weigh and measure a random sampling. With plenty of experience we can make pretty good predictions, but for commercial production in large quantities I suspect that the mold manufacturer's specifications are used for catalogue and ordering purposes.

[Nevada Ed]

When I receive a box of new, for the first time bullets from a company

I always weigh them to check their weight (5%) as well as log their over all diamiter, length and quality.

My last coated bullets for the 9mm, had a few "Fat" ones in the box of 500, that were a little over .356".

99.9% of the time, there should not be a big thing that will cause any problems
from companies, making bullets.

Since I don't make my own bullets, I just go with them and hope for low prices.

[Ivan the Butcher]

I was casting bullets for a Black Powder Rifle Cartridge 1885 in 38-55. I wanted close tolerances, so I bought additional equipment and used the old "Dipper method" as instructed in Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook. (The Lee 20 pound bottom pour furnace gave variances of up to 4%.)

I cast 387 bullets of 330 grain RN. I weighed each on a digital scale. A total of 2 bullets were not within a 1 grain window (<1/3%). I divided the bullets into divisions of 3/10 grain (.1%), It turned out to be the classic Bell Curve, with the majority (210) right in the middle!

When loaded over Trail Boss with a 1/16" air gap between powder and bullet base, I shot from a rest, @ 100 yards using Lyman Tang & Globe iron sights a 20-shot group that largest outside diameter was .506" minus bullet diameter of .376" equals, .130" MOA! Call it 1/8 MOA with cast bullets, THAT IS PRECISSION!

That was a 20:1, Lead:Tin alloy, with a thermostatic controlled lead pot (makes a consistent alloy density) and a Lyman dipper. I made sure there was a 5/8" sprue puddle on each casting to allow for "Cooling Shrinkage".

Some people say that single cavity molds are more consistent than the 2 cavity Lyman mold I was using, but I can't see how.

Ivan

[GypsmJim]

I have cast my on boolits since 1975. 100% Lee molds. I do recall weighing one once, and I vaguely remember it was close to the advertised weight.

I guarantee you that with my arthritis and bifocals, if a difference in weight has caused a poor score I surely wouldn't know it.

[Miracle Man]

Originally Posted by robertrwalsh

I will typically weigh a small number from a batch just to ensure that they did not by mistake send me the wrong thing (i.e. 230 gn plated instead of 200 gn plated).

Yup

I remember probably 15-20 years ago a manufacturer shipped out a bunch of .204 bullets labeled .224. Think it was Hornady? not sure?

I always weigh and check diameter of several random bullets anytime I'm reloading. It pays to pay attention to every detail.

[Drm50]

I use common sense & random check a couple bullets for weight. I know a dipstick that sits and “culls” bad bullets out of Sierra 55gr .224cal with a Lee balance beam scale. I say nothing, just buy his culls. According to him they are running 20% +/- 55gr. I’m sure he can tell the difference right away with his 223 H&R Handy Rifle with a big BSA scope.

[growr]

Will confirm with a couple and then move on......pretty much a waste of my time especially on jacketed bullets of any kind.



Randy

[Mike, SC Hunter]

No...........

[SGT ROCK 11B]

I don't cast but I get the same bullets over and over again. i.e. .38 caliber 158 LSWC so I do not worry about it.

[Kinman]

I cast more round balls for muzzle loading than I do bullets. If I were truly concerned about accuracy I would weigh everything. When I weigh balls, I lump them into 3/10ths of a grain lots. It is surprising to see commercially produced balls all over the place, they are swaged not cast (Hornady, Speer) I can produce a much better cast ball and know exactly what I've got. I cast a few bullets for black powder heavy rifles and know that with the right mold I can produce a heavy bullet that is so fine you can hardly see the seam of the mold, the guy that made that mold has long gone...there are some guys still alive that produce a good mold. When it comes to revolver bullets I usually have an ample supply of Lazer Cast, they always work great for me, no coating just lube, moderate speeds.

[gnappi]

Another No!

[WR Moore]

If you've got that much free time, I've got a couple hundred rifle rounds that need pulled down.