I'm retiring Lee FCD for my 38 Special loads. Perhaps the FCD is ok for jacketed Bullets, but for lead, I'll pass on it. I actually get better accuracy with my regular seat/crimp die with same loads (bench tested).

I'm considering to purchase a Redding Profile Crimp. I understand that this die produces a superior roll crimp (looks closer to factory crimps compared to the FCD). I also prefer to seat and crimp separately.

Anyone use the Redding Profile Crimp die? Any recommendations for another real good crimp die to replace the Lee FCD?

I guess I'm just lucky. I've never really had a crimping problem with dies that necessitated a FCD.

For years I have used the Lee three die set for .38 SPL, .357 Mag, and .38 S&W. I seat the bullet and roll crimp in one operation with no muss or fuss.

I really do not understand the need for a fourth die.

I have and use it in 460 S&W and like it - very good results
I also get good results with the Hornady crimp die in 460 and 500

I have FCD dies but have yet to have a need to use them

be safe
Ruggy

Many of my die sets now have Redding Profile crimp dies.
They just work better.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Been loading handgun ammo, lead and jacketed, for a bit over 50 years and once I started using 7/8-14 dies, have experienced nothing but satisfactory roll crimps from standard seat-crimp dies. My Lyman 310 dies in .38 S&W gave a weak, uneven crimp, but nothing since. Never felt the need for the FCD.

Larry

Last time I checked, the Redding Profile Crimp die is available in straight wall cases only.

I use it for my 38-55 loads in my modern High Wall. I got a 20 round group about the size of a Nickel! So, yeah, I'd say they work! But they are pricey! The group was off a rest and at 100 yards, I only tried that once! The load was only about 800 fps! But still, I was thrilled!

I own 12 Lee FCD's, but only ever needed to use the 44-40 die (a notorious round that gets out of spec when seating or crimping!)

I load a lot of different cartridges (114+/-) and found bulging shoulders are from adjusted dies or case length inconsistency! It is very unusual to need a FDC on a straight walled case.

Ivan

I replaced the 44 Lee FCD die with the Redding 44 profile crimp die and I'm happy with the Redding. I started using a crimp die originally with 44 Mag because of some problems I had with the factory seat/crimp die occasionally crushing or deforming the case. The Lee FCD works well with jacketed bullets, but it felt like it was resizing when loading with coated lead bullets, especially with Win and Federal brass. I tried knocking out that carbide sizing ring but didn't have success doing so and I decided to order the Redding profile crimp die.

I have nowhere near the sizing problem with the Lee FCD in reloading 357 Mag and coated lead bullets, so I am still using the Lee die in 357 Mag.

Redding. I use it for my magnum revolver rounds. Works great.

I went to the RCBS Cowboy, the whole set actually, because it is larger in diameter (ID) for lead bullets. It does well seating and crimping in one operation. Worth the price.

I am adding a note that the Hornady Cowboy set is not a viable alternative, because it only includes a larger expander, causing galling because of the standard diameter sizer. The crimp is standard also. Total write off.

Gee three threads on crimping a 38 special. Perhaps it is the operator and not the die??

I need new golf clubs I can't get my score down.

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Still Running Against the Wind

You can be smug, but the truth is that standard dies are undersized for lead bullet diameters and thus all the problems.

Without Lee FCD I would have missed the marvelous decade of reloading a metric ton of 40 S&W range recovered cases that simply would.not.fit in my revolver (Smith 610).

Nor many of various 9mm bottom feeders I favored for so long.

That said, I've abandoned interest in 40s and pursue 10mm under more controlled conditions (non competition & recover on my own brass).

Lee FCD has given good service to me for specific purpose.

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Dum vivimus Vivamas

Yep, the LFCD should be a banned topic, let the flames begin.

Some old, same old over and over again.

QUOTE from the other thread.

Lee FCD - Issue resolved
"My problem not obtaining a roll crimp with the Lee FCD was due to not bringing down the case mouth flare enough when seating the bullet. The seating die was not positioned to where it just touched the case mouth (about three turns from touching shall holder).

The case mouth was still flared a bit going into the Lee FCD and the FCD adjustment screw was getting a false indication upon touching the cartridge prior to adjusting the screw for crimping. With the case mouth not properly brought down by the seating die (but not to the extent of crimping) I had to do three turns for a good roll crimp in the FCD.

With the flare brought down in the seating down correctly, I'm getting a nice roll crimp with 1 1/4 turn of the Lee FCD.

New to the Lee FCD. In the past I would just seat and crimp in my RCBS die in one pass."

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Still Running Against the Wind

The only cartridge that I use the LFCD for is .380 not because of the crimp feature but because it resizes the case. Some.380 cases are thin and will bulge on flaring. I could throw them away but I am cheep. As far as loading lead bullets I have had no problem using standard dies for revolvers and bottom feeders. For the last 40 years I haven't loaded a single jacketed bullet for any hand gun. Hand loading is like everything else one person can have a pile of parts on a table and assemble it into what it is and another can't do it with written and verbal instructions.

I too like & use the Redding Profile crimp die for 357 & 41 mag loads . 38 special I use either a Lyman roll or Redding taper crimp depending on the load . The only time I use the Lee FCD is to size 38 special wadcutter cases . I just use the die body with the carbide sizer ring rather than FL resizing cases . I feel it works the brass less & I taper crimp wadcutter loads also . It seems to work quite well for target loads in my 52 , PPC gun & Colt OMM . Many who shoot cast or swaged lead abhor the Lee FCD . Since I still compete in Bullseye 2700 matches I want the best accuracy I can get especially @ 50yds . I also like the Lyman M dies for lead bullets . Lyman seater / crimp die does 2 jobs @ once . If you like to seat & crimp in seperate steps you need a second crimp die .

I use them on all my straight wall cases.
Excellent crimp. I am very satisfied with them.

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NRA Benefactor

My 38/357 die set from Lee was purchased in '70? and was just a simple 3 die set. I used it for many years (along with other Lee handgun die sets) by seating/adjusting/crimping and it worked quite well. Maybe 12 years ago I purchased a Redding profile Crimp die for my .44s and after using it for perhaps 100 rounds I ordred on for my 38/357 use. I like the crimp it produces and for me, it seems to take less effort to get a heavy crimp for magnum loads. Good investment and I recommend it.

Good thinking about tossing the FCD...

I guess the answer is to pull the bullets, and check them, I have. Mine come in at exactly .358 after FCD, just where they are supposed to be. I can't get any better accuracy than I am getting now. If a lee die does not meet expectations they will replace it.

Not a golfer, but been told by many good golfers that most less than stellar golfers throw money at the problem. And the problem persists.

What can help is use of Remington cases (RP headstamp), because they are thin and then allow a fatter bullet in standard diameter dies....~same neck tension as jacketed.

See comment #17 in the below link:

Lee Factory Crimp Die - Swaged bullets
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I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.

Rule3 - I didn't notice in my original thread above where I stated that I don't know how to use the die - you did confirm by quoting my previous posting that I resolved problems which I encountered with the FCD. I'm just not getting the accuracy from it as I had with my other crimp dies.

Isn't life too short to have needless and irrelevant debate?

Well Sir, I so not see what is "needless and irrelevant" and it is not a debate. I am not recommending or condemning ANY brand of die here. Use whatever you find to work for you.

You have around one hundred (100) threads, not posts on or about the 38/357 cartridge, with how ever many different powders, bullets etc. So it is very relevant.

How have you managed to crimp all those, let alone determine "accuracy" based on crimp? (that is rhetorical if you wish)
If you have loaded all those and other calibers, seems you be well versed on what crimp method worked to your specifications.??

Whatever crimps your bullet.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Rule3 - as always, you're entitled to your opinion. "Don't sweat the small stuff"

Yes, I do have reloading manuals as well.

I started reloading over 35 years ago, and set my own dies for seating and crimp for each bullet type individually. I learned early on the value of a proper crimp, and have never had a problem. I have never used a factory crimp die, never seen one.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Difficult to have a "proper crimp", when the bullet is oversize for the dies. Dies that do the roll without pressing the neck should work okay. That is what rules out the FCD for lead bullets. It works great on jacketed, standard diameter bullets and consistent case thickness.

The FCD should work fine on lead with Remington (RP) brass, because the cases are thinner and compensate for fatter bullets.

I had some issues in .45 Auto with an older set of Lee dies. It was a known problem with the dies, they were a little out of spec. I used them for years reloading for my HK .45 and my Glock 21. They had a more forgiving chamber and the minor over size wasn't an issue. When I started loading for my tight chambered 1911s. it became an issue. I had over 2000 loaded rounds that wouldn't chamber correctly in the 1911s. I bought a Lee FCD and that worked for the 2000 rounds. I since have been using Dillon .45 dies in my XL650, no size or taper crimp issues since.

Sorry to hear that all you new guys are having all those problems.

My 1968 three piece old RCBS works..................

GREAT !!

I know several people that believe a separate crimp die is essential to the reloading process. I have not found that to be the case but that doesn't make them wrong. Reloading equipment is sort of like underwear, everyone wears them a little different. If you feel that you get a better reload with a certain set or brand of dies or by using a certain technique, and it works for you, you are right.

I helped my next door neighbor set up his reloading room and found him a RCBS RC Jr. to load his 7mm Rem Mag. because he was having trouble with his Lee press. Nothing wrong with the Lee (if you like them) it just wasn't up to the task on the 7. I also encouraged him to get together with several of his hunting/work buddies, that reload, and spend some time watching them reload. As I explained, everyone loads a little different and you will take what you have observed and modify it and come up with your own techniques that work best for you. (As we have all done)

I have been reloading for 50+ years and still use most of the same gear that I started out with. Is there better gear today? Maybe so but what I have works for my style.

I am Not an expert but my system works for me. Any system that produces good, safe reloads, within the standards of the reloader is the right way, at least for him/her. And method of crimp certainly falls into that scenario.