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Old 08-22-2017, 09:13 AM
andy52 andy52 is offline
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I've loaded a lot of .45 acp for autos but I just recently purchased a Smith 1950 in .45. It may be totally unnecessary to apply a roll crimp but my Hornady new dimension dies will do that so I though I'd give it a try. I'm just going to load a few test rounds to start with. The load is a 225gr lead with a crimp groove and a massive hollow point over 8grs of AA#5. The data indicates the load to be about 900fps.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:36 AM
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I've loaded a lot of .45 acp for autos but I just recently purchased a Smith 1950 in .45. It may be totally unnecessary to apply a roll crimp but my Hornady new dimension dies will do that so I though I'd give it a try. I'm just going to load a few test rounds to start with. The load is a 225gr lead with a crimp groove and a massive hollow point over 8grs of AA#5. The data indicates the load to be about 900fps.
I would think for a roll crimp to work you need auto rim cases for the round to rest on something other than the case mouth.

I use AR cases, seat with the hornady 45 seater, then apply a very light taper crimp with the RCBS 45 seater not to damage the cast bullet.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:48 AM
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Sounds like a good start! I use 200+ 230 gr. plated bullets. Some of the coated bullets are fine too. With the type of rifling on my 625JM, it leads badly and is hard to remove. If you are going to use moon clips, RIMZ poly clips are great for the range. NO tools needed to load & unload. Bob
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:50 AM
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The moon clips serve that purpose unlike a .45 auto that needs to rest on the case mouth.

The cast bullets I'm using have a crimp groove so there shouldn't be any damage to the bullet.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:53 AM
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I won't know how bad the leading will be until I try them. I have a lewis lead remover that works pretty well for that problem.

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Old 08-22-2017, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by andy52 View Post
I won't know how bad the leading will be until I try them. I have a lewis lead remover that works pretty well for that problem.
Let us know how it works.
I have been planning on trying that bullet in my 45acp wheel guns.
In the past I have noticed quite a bit of leading in my 625 & 610 using cast bullets.
I switched to plated or jacketed bullets and never tried to figure out if it was the powder ,, the bullets ,, the gun , or what was the cause of the leading.
I haven't noticed leading in my 627 using cast and I haven't shot my 25 with cast yet.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by andy52 View Post
The moon clips serve that purpose unlike a .45 auto that needs to rest on the case mouth.

The cast bullets I'm using have a crimp groove so there shouldn't be any damage to the bullet.
True, forgot about that. I do not use any moon clips and I found accuracy decreases with them. AR cases are much better for my gun and loading envelopes so far.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:42 AM
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Let us know how it works.
I have been planning on trying that bullet in my 45acp wheel guns.
In the past I have noticed quite a bit of leading in my 625 & 610 using cast bullets.
I switched to plated or jacketed bullets and never tried to figure out if it was the powder ,, the bullets ,, the gun , or what was the cause of the leading.
I haven't noticed leading in my 627 using cast and I haven't shot my 25 with cast yet.
Will do. Probably will be this coming weekend before I'll get to the range.

The alloy on those bullets is 2-2-96 which is rather soft so it's possible that I'll get some leading. I might do a water jug test just to see how that massive hollow point preforms.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:45 AM
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True, forgot about that. I do not use any moon clips and I found accuracy decreases with them. AR cases are much better for my gun and loading envelopes so far.
I don't have any AR cases to try yet so I'll just have to go with the moon clips for now.
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Old 08-22-2017, 11:28 AM
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Decreased accuracy with moonclips?

Please don't tell my 25-2 or my 625 JM that they are not accurate unless I use Auto Rim casings.....
doesn't hold water in MY guns.....I use my 625 JM in USPSA matches frequently, so it gets a LOT of rounds downrange. I DID have to switch to FMJ 230's due to excessive leading issues with my #68 H&G 200 SWC's that I cast.
I don't do anything different in my reloading of .45 ACP just because it is a revolver...same as for my 1911's

Randy
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Old 08-22-2017, 11:59 AM
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I load for a few 1911's and a 625-8. I use the same ammo in all of them. The 625-8 uses moon clips. I experienced considerable leading in my 625 with cast but none in my Colt 1911's. I think it has something to do with the rifling in the newer 625's. I've read a lot of complaints about leading in those revolvers, but probably won't be the case with the older ones. I would just shoot lead until I saw a problem.

Personally, I've just moved on to coated lead and all my leading problems went away.

I can't see how a roll crimp will matter using moon clips. I've experienced some jammed cases in my 625 but I attribute that to the cylinder not being cut properly for moon clips, not the ammo. My ammo works just fine in a 1911 and it all goes through a case gauge. The newer guns just don't measure up to the older ones. The whole idea of moon clips was to be able to use the same ammo in my revolver.

You did good by buying an older gun. I wish I had. I'm not buying anymore new S&W revolvers.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:00 PM
Mike, SC Hunter Mike, SC Hunter is offline
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I just taper crimp everything......Same .45 ammo for my 1911's & revolvers......Never a problem.......
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:06 PM
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I don't do anything different in my reloading of .45 ACP just because it is a revolver...same as for my 1911's

Randy
I've read a lot were people have said that and it may very well be true.
I thought I'd just experiment a little with the crimps I can always go back to no crimp if needs be.
I will have to make sure I mark these reloads for revolver only, don't think they would work well in my autos.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:16 PM
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I suspicion the lead problem in the barrels is caused by the cylinder throats too small for the " bore " diameter of the barrel . I really don't think it has to do with the type of rifling . Shooting cast bullets @ 800-900 fps does not require a very hard lead mixture bullet .
If one doesn't want to take the time for find the problem , measure the cylinder throats and the bore diameter of the barrel , also drive a soft lead slug all the way down the barrel to see if there is a tight spot at the junction where the barrel threads onto the frame . Then you make sure your cast bullets are slightly oversize compared to the barrel measurement . Shooting cast does require a bit of thought / work to shoot successfully w/o a lot of leading of the barrel in revolvers .
Some claim good success using powder coated cast bullets . I have never tried them . Plated copper bullets is an easy fix though .

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Old 08-22-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LostintheOzone View Post
The newer guns just don't measure up to the older ones.

You did good by buying an older gun. I wish I had.
Thanks the one I have was made in 1953. The only real advantage I can see with the crimp is it may feed into the cylinders a little easier.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:32 PM
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I suspicion the lead problem in the barrels is caused by the cylinder throats too small for the " bore " diameter of the barrel . I really don't think it has to do with the type of rifling . Shooting cast bullets @ 800-900 fps does not require a very hard lead mixture bullet .
If one doesn't want to take the time for find the problem , measure the cylinder throats and the bore diameter of the barrel , also drive a soft lead slug all the way down the barrel to see if there is a tight spot at the junction where the barrel threads onto the frame . Then you make sure your cast bullets are slightly oversize compared to the barrel measurement . Shooting cast does require a bit of thought / work to shoot successfully w/o a lot of leading of the barrel in revolvers .
Some claim good success using powder coated cast bullets . I have never tried them . Plated copper bullets is an easy fix though .
I haven't gotten the opportunity to slug the .45 barrel yet. I bought the bullets premade
I do cast my own bullets for my .38/.357 and 9mm. Some I powder coat and some not depends on how fast I'm pushing them. The mix I use is way to hard for any kind of SD usage. The first time I cast for the 9mm I did a water jug test, 6 one gallon jugs didn't stop the bullet.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:45 PM
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Experiment and use the crimp that makes for the most accurate load. May make no difference at all.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:48 PM
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I use the same loads for my 1911's and my newer 625 JM. I'm loading 105+/-bhn 200gr cast bullets sized 0.451 with a taper crimp. I'm getting very little leading, but did shoot 300+ rounds of FMJ when I broke in the gun. I also have a wadcutter mold and tried a few. They are tough to get in the cylinder but cut a nice hole. Decided they were not worth the effort.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:55 PM
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It has been awhile ago , and if I remember right , the leading I was getting may have been with Precision Bullets and my brief run with Titegroup powder. Duh,, read the Percision Bullets FAQ / instructions , 'Don't use Titegroup with Precision Bullets" .

I also have always used the same ammo in my 1911's that I used in my wheel guns.

I just saw those big SWCHP's and thought those might make an interesting load for my 3" m-25..
( but thought they might be a bit soft and might lead the bore)
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:56 PM
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These bullets are sized at .452 I could have gotten .454 but that seemed more like something you'd use in .45LC.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Some claim good success using powder coated cast bullets . I have never tried them . Plated copper bullets is an easy fix though .
I tried plated and FMJ. FMJ is absolutely the best but also the most expensive. I found plated (washed) harder to load than plain lead. If the plating is very thin, and some are, the thin plating actually keeps the bullet from being seated with the desirable neck tension. Somehow plating seems to act as a slippery coating between the bullet and the brass where HI-Tek coatings enhance the grip on the bullet.

That's my observation anyway.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:04 PM
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It has been awhile ago , and if I remember right , the leading I was getting may have been with Precision Bullets and my brief run with Titegroup powder. Duh,, read the Percision Bullets FAQ / instructions , 'Don't use Titegroup with Precision Bullets" .

I also have always used the same ammo in my 1911's that I used in my wheel guns.

I just saw those big SWCHP's and thought those might make an interesting load for my 3" m-25..
( but thought they might be a bit soft and might lead the bore)
I only bought 250 of these so I'm not out much if they don't work out, I got them from GT bullets. I've used their .44 bullets with good results same 2-2-96 mix without to much leading but I was only pushing those closer to 750 fps. I'll let you know about the leading and will do a jug test to see how the hollow point expands.

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Old 08-22-2017, 01:51 PM
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[QUOTE=LostintheOzone;139717029]I load for a few 1911's and a 625-8.

I can't see how a roll crimp will matter using moon clips. I've experienced some jammed cases in my 625 but I attribute that to the cylinder not being cut properly for moon clips, not the ammo.

I may be missing something, but haven't all S&W cylinders in .45 ACP been made the same since 1917? I've had several 1917s, a couple of 1950 Targets, and now a 22-4, and have used AR, ACP with, and ACP without in all of them, interchangeably and without issue. Have I just been lucky ?

Larry
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:01 PM
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I can't say this for fact because I haven't owned one but I've read a lot of bad talk about how the model 25s had throat problems.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:27 PM
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[quote=lebomm;139717162]
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostintheOzone View Post
I load for a few 1911's and a 625-8.

I can't see how a roll crimp will matter using moon clips. I've experienced some jammed cases in my 625 but I attribute that to the cylinder not being cut properly for moon clips, not the ammo.

I may be missing something, but haven't all S&W cylinders in .45 ACP been made the same since 1917? I've had several 1917s, a couple of 1950 Targets, and now a 22-4, and have used AR, ACP with, and ACP without in all of them, interchangeably and without issue. Have I just been lucky ?

Larry
I don't know. I've only had one 45 ACP S&W revolver. I purchased it new a few years ago. The leading was the first issue, solved that. Now I'm dealing with the case jams in the cylinder. Loads are mild so the cases aren't being deformed from pressure. I can slide the fired cases in and out individually without difficulty. It could be the Ranch moon clips but those are the original and the most expensive one can buy. I think QC would be pretty good on those.

Do you own a newer stainless 625 to compare? Just curious as I'm trying to solve this problem. Maybe send the gun back to let them check the cylinder, just a bump in the road. Happy with it otherwise but I've never had this many issues with my other S&W's, all built before 1990.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:39 PM
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[quote=LostintheOzone;139717213]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lebomm View Post

I don't know. I've only had one 45 ACP S&W revolver. I purchased it new a few years ago. The leading was the first issue, solved that. Now I'm dealing with the case jams in the cylinder. Loads are mild so the cases aren't being deformed from pressure. I can slide the fired cases in and out individually. It could be the Ranch moon clips but those are the original and the most expensive one can buy. I think QC would be pretty good on those.

Do you own a newer stainless 625 to compare? Just curious as I'm trying to solve this problem. Maybe send the gun back to let them check the cylinder, just a bump in the road. Happy with it otherwise but I've never had this many issues with my other S&W's, all built before 1990.
I bought a 25-2 from 1977 I think it is, throats are .455. Gorgeous blue, pretty looking, 6.5'' barrel. I love it. I could not make that thing to shoot. No factory ammo of any kind would even group better than a shot gun at first. But I tried and tried to make it work and I did.

AR case, 0.454 Dardas bullets 200 grain over 5.4 gr. W231, absolutely spot on accurate with an occasional flier. Really depends a lot how I seat and crimp as well. Dardas helped me and talked me through it as well. He swears by using the Lyman M die to start the bullet of straight into the case.

Those cases rest on the throat neck. Any type of minute powder residue will sit on that neck and make the bullet sit slightly high, not even noticeable and jam the ratchet right away. Not to put undue force on the ratchet, I make it a habit to run a bore brush through the necks after every 2 cylinder I fire. I also visually check for unburnt powder residue under the ratchet star before I reload. This is more of a pain in the neck than with any other smith I own but is the nature of the beast. Still loving it but took some time to figure it out.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oysterer View Post
I would think for a roll crimp to work you need auto rim cases for the round to rest on something other than the case mouth.

I use AR cases, seat with the hornady 45 seater, then apply a very light taper crimp with the RCBS 45 seater not to damage the cast bullet.
Using moon clips, roll crimp is fine. The clips are providing headspace, not the case mouth.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by old&slow View Post
It has been awhile ago , and if I remember right , the leading I was getting may have been with Precision Bullets and my brief run with Titegroup powder. Duh,, read the Percision Bullets FAQ / instructions , 'Don't use Titegroup with Precision Bullets" .

I also have always used the same ammo in my 1911's that I used in my wheel guns.

I just saw those big SWCHP's and thought those might make an interesting load for my 3" m-25..
( but thought they might be a bit soft and might lead the bore)
IMO, don't use TG with any lead bullet for best results. It just burns too hot.
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:22 PM
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[quote=LostintheOzone;139717213]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lebomm View Post

Now I'm dealing with the case jams in the cylinder. Loads are mild so the cases aren't being deformed from pressure. I can slide the fired cases in and out individually without difficulty. It could be the Ranch moon clips but those are the original and the most expensive one can buy. I think QC would be pretty good on those.

0.
Is the problem with moon clips of ammo not wanting to fully drop into the cylinder ?? Some of the 45 acp brass I have is probably older than I am ,, plus I've been picking up range brass forever.

I had problems with moon clips of ammo not wanting to drop in when I was doing a speed load during a match. So I started gauging all my loaded rounds.. I was getting about a 25% + drop-out. Just slightly not going into the gauge.


They worked fine in my 1911's. But, when you tried to drop 6 of them in a revolver at one time,, they sometimes didn't go.. ( Just slightly off times six,, makes a bunch. )

Lee makes a pass thru die called a Bulge Buster , which resizes the whole brass.. Haven't had any problems with them not dropping in since.
( I use and like Ranch Product moon clips in all my 45 acp revolvers. I prefer other brands of moonclips for the 610 , 627 , & 929 )

Last edited by old&slow; 08-22-2017 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:24 PM
cowboy4evr cowboy4evr is offline
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The model 25's having oversize throats is waayyyy over blown . A few yrs ago I got a real nice 25-5 , 4" sans grips for cheap , I mean real cheap . The owner was all upset about the over size throats . I checked them , most were .455 or .456 . The bore diameter was .4525-.453 . I cast and size all my 255gr swc bullets ( the actual Keith ) to .454 . It is one of THE most accurate revolver I have and it does " NOT " lead the barrel .
The oversize throat thing is brought on by people that don't know what it takes to really shoot cast bullets " successfully " in revolvers . I don't care how long someone has been reloading . " When you keep making the same bad mistakes , you keep getting the same bad results " !
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:36 PM
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I've used far more Bullseye than Titegroup in .45 ACP handguns. In deference to Titegroup, however, it appears to work about as well as Bullseye, may even equal Bullseye from an accuracy perspective. I may have used Titegroup with jacketed bullets in the .45 ACP but don't recall as I seldom shoot anything but cast bullets in any handgun chambering.

Whether there is anything to the alleged Titegroup "heat" complaint, I don't know. Looks like the manufacturer/ distributor would remove it from the market if it was truly detrimental to guns. I'd call Hodgdon if I had a concern, particularly if it was based on personal experience.
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:18 PM
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[quote=old&slow;139717269]
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Originally Posted by LostintheOzone View Post

Is the problem with moon clips of ammo not wanting to fully drop into the cylinder ?? Some of the 45 acp brass I have is probably older than I am ,, plus I've been picking up range brass forever.

I had problems with moon clips of ammo not wanting to drop in when I was doing a speed load during a match. So I started gauging all my loaded rounds.. I was getting about a 25% + drop-out. Just slightly not going into the gauge.


They worked fine in my 1911's. But, when you tried to drop 6 of them in a revolver at one time,, they sometimes didn't go.. ( Just slightly off times six,, makes a bunch. )

Lee makes a pass thru die called a Bulge Buster , which resizes the whole brass.. Haven't had any problems with them not dropping in since.
( I use and like Ranch Product moon clips in all my 45 acp revolvers. I prefer other brands of moonclips for the 610 , 627 , & 929 )
This one of the reasons I decided to try the crimp. Because the case mouth is slightly depressed inward it's less likely catch on the end of the chamber when being inserted.
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  #33  
Old 08-22-2017, 06:34 PM
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Learning a lot from this thread. Thanks for the info all.

I need to look at several things here for sure. Trying to insert individual rounds and check my case size in relation to the cylinder, the plunk test for revolvers I guess. I use a LFCD on all my 45 ACP so it does some resizing after I finish seating. Range brass is tricky sometimes, all sizes and condition so I've found one more trip thru the sizer gives me better uniformity. I believe some range brass is so worn out that it loses it's ability to be sized. I can feel those in the sizing die sometimes and generally chuck them.

I'm going to start running the bore brush thru the cylinder and looking for powder under the ratchet star.

I think I have a good ammo product from my experience with loading for 1911's. Pretty much have that down as I haven't had any malfs in a long while. I'm gauging all my ammo. Now I have a feeling that I might need to focus on the powder build up in the cylinder.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:13 PM
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Brass can defiantly get work hardened after several loadings. On my precision rifle rounds I anneal them after about 3 or 4 loading, pistol brass just goes in the recycle bucket. I use my Lewis lead remover to clean the cylinders of revolvers it works muck better than a bronze brush.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cowboy4evr View Post
The model 25's having oversize throats is waayyyy over blown . A few yrs ago I got a real nice 25-5 , 4" sans grips for cheap , I mean real cheap . The owner was all upset about the over size throats . I checked them , most were .455 or .456 . The bore diameter was .4525-.453 . I cast and size all my 255gr swc bullets ( the actual Keith ) to .454 . It is one of THE most accurate revolver I have and it does " NOT " lead the barrel .
The oversize throat thing is brought on by people that don't know what it takes to really shoot cast bullets " successfully " in revolvers . I don't care how long someone has been reloading . " When you keep making the same bad mistakes , you keep getting the same bad results " !
That gun is the reason I am planning to get into casting and sizing my own. That will be the next step for me. If you have a 455 throat, just like mine and a 454 Keith, bingo you are golden. If you buy any FMJ ball ammo at Cabelas as most of us do your result is going to suck big. I am grateful for the forum where I was able to figure this out...basically I think any old smith needs old school ammo and a little thinking put into it.
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  #36  
Old 08-22-2017, 07:45 PM
oysterer oysterer is offline
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Originally Posted by LostintheOzone View Post
Learning a lot from this thread. Thanks for the info all.
I think when working with an old Smith 45 ACP or any other caliber, range brass is not a ticket to success and reproducibility. When I get a new caliber I order a 500 case from starline and always been more than happy with that. That is good brass and you know how it had been used before.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:47 PM
rockquarry rockquarry is offline
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Good for you! We've all used range brass, and it will work, but you put yourself at an immediate disadvantage by using it, particularly when it's mixed. Range stuff might shoot almost as good as new or truly once-fired brass of the same make, but it will never shoot better.

Brass is more expensive than ever, but still very cheap when the cost is amortized over the practical lifespan of the brass.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:52 PM
spad124 spad124 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oysterer View Post
True, forgot about that. I do not use any moon clips and I found accuracy decreases with them. AR cases are much better for my gun and loading envelopes so far.
Same here. My M1917 is very accurate with .45 AR using plated bullets and a shotgun with .45ACP hardball. Same loading and fps.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:37 PM
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Lots of good info here. Only thing I would say is 8 gr of #5 seems pretty stout. It's been a while since I used it in 45 but I'm sure it was well under 7. You might try something lighter.
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  #40  
Old 08-22-2017, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockquarry View Post
Good for you! We've all used range brass, and it will work, but you put yourself at an immediate disadvantage by using it, particularly when it's mixed. Range stuff might shoot almost as good as new or truly once-fired brass of the same make, but it will never shoot better.

Brass is more expensive than ever, but still very cheap when the cost is amortized over the practical lifespan of the brass.
Now you tell me. I knew there was some reason people left that stuff on the ground.
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Old 08-22-2017, 11:02 PM
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Andy, where did you get those bullets?
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Old 08-23-2017, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag22 View Post
Lots of good info here. Only thing I would say is 8 gr of #5 seems pretty stout. It's been a while since I used it in 45 but I'm sure it was well under 7. You might try something lighter.
The Accurate load manual list a 230gr RN lead at 7.7-8.5 grs. for #5. The bullet I'm using is a 225gr so I'm thinking 8grs would be within reason.

Last edited by andy52; 08-23-2017 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 08-23-2017, 06:49 AM
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Andy, where did you get those bullets?
GT Bullets!, Fine Hand Cast Lead Bullets

I use their 250gr in .44 spl and it's extremely accurate.

That's the only bullets I've bought from them other than the 225gr I'm loading now.

38/357 and 9mm I cast myself with the exception of Hornady 148 HBWC that I use in my 14-2.
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  #44  
Old 08-23-2017, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy52 View Post
Brass can defiantly get work hardened after several loadings. On my precision rifle rounds I anneal them after about 3 or 4 loading, pistol brass just goes in the recycle bucket. I use my Lewis lead remover to clean the cylinders of revolvers it works muck better than a bronze brush.
My rifle brass gets trimmed ,, annealed,, primer pockets cleaned,, brass weighted ,, each powder charger weighted ,, etc.. etc..
I have a 5 gallon bucket , or two, of 45 acp brass. It gets cleaned and loaded.. When the mouth starts to crack , that means you can only load it one more time.??
. Minute of steel plate accurate.

Last edited by old&slow; 08-23-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag22 View Post
Lots of good info here. Only thing I would say is 8 gr of #5 seems pretty stout. It's been a while since I used it in 45 but I'm sure it was well under 7. You might try something lighter.
Just for grins I looked up the load in the Lyman's 49th edition
Their load data is a little lower than Accurates. Lyman shows a 225gr lead 6.6 - 8.2. for #5. I usually go with the data of the powder maker so we will see, I only loaded 50 of these so if they seem to hot I'll back it down some.
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  #46  
Old 08-23-2017, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cowboy4evr View Post
Some claim good success using powder coated cast bullets . I have never tried them . Plated copper bullets is an easy fix though .
Give the powder coat a try. I've been using them and they seem to work as advertised. Doing your own powdercoating isn't that hard if you cast your own boolits. You can also order non lubed commercial bullets if you want to go that way. I'm sold on it myself.
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  #47  
Old 08-23-2017, 08:44 PM
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Nice selection of bullets! I bookmarked the page.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 08-24-2017, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostintheOzone View Post
Learning a lot from this thread. Thanks for the info all.

I need to look at several things here for sure. Trying to insert individual rounds and check my case size in relation to the cylinder, the plunk test for revolvers I guess. I use a LFCD on all my 45 ACP so it does some resizing after I finish seating. Range brass is tricky sometimes, all sizes and condition so I've found one more trip thru the sizer gives me better uniformity. I believe some range brass is so worn out that it loses it's ability to be sized. I can feel those in the sizing die sometimes and generally chuck them.

I'm going to start running the bore brush thru the cylinder and looking for powder under the ratchet star.

I think I have a good ammo product from my experience with loading for 1911's. Pretty much have that down as I haven't had any malfs in a long while. I'm gauging all my ammo. Now I have a feeling that I might need to focus on the powder build up in the cylinder.

The Lee Factory Crimp die will size the bullet down to factory specs, in most cases 0.452". If your barrel is larger than that it will lead.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:40 AM
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Went to the range yesterday to test the ammo. Accuracy was acceptable, some leading but not excessive, terminal ballistics was outstanding. With the water jug test the bullet penetrated two jugs and stopped in the third.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:51 AM
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Went to the range yesterday to test the ammo. Accuracy was acceptable, some leading but not excessive, terminal ballistics was outstanding. With the water jug test the bullet penetrated two jugs and stopped in the third.
Looks like darn good shooting to me ,,,

Thanks,
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