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Old 05-04-2018, 08:35 PM
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Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110  
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Default Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110

I finally received my 240 grain LSWC Dardas Cast Bullets. I could not find any load data in the reloading manuals that I currently have so I loaded them with 22.5 grains of H110 because some other people use this recipe. I think the speer manual had these bullets listed but no H110 or W296 but their COL was 1.605 so that is what I used. Anyone see any problem with this?

These bullets are .433 and I don't have a custom expanding die so I probably shaved them when I seated them. I flared the mouths out as much as I could to try and get them started. They probably won't shoot like they should.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:49 PM
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Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110  
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You won’t actually know until you put holes in paper.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:54 PM
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You wonít actually know until you put holes in paper.
I am concerned with pressure issues because I couldn't find COL and powder listed.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:57 PM
DumpStick DumpStick is offline
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If they'll chamber, they'll shoot. Try em out.

Those are bevel base bullets. If you got any decent flare on the case, it probably went in fine.
If yo didn't see lead rings in your seating die, chances are good they didn't shave any.

I've fired many, many shells with that wasp-waist look. They shot fine.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:02 PM
M29since14 M29since14 is online now
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Pressure should not be a problem, if weíre talking 44 Magnum. You didnít mention your primer... ?

In any case, with that big bevel base and your flared case mouths I donít see how you could damage the bullet. Did you check to see that your loaded rounds drop easily into all of your chambers?

If youíre using this ammo in a 29-2 or similar gun with large exit bores in the cylinder you might be surprised how well these loads work. Get back to us on that.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:14 PM
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Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110 Dardas 240 Grain LSWC and H110  
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Originally Posted by M29since14 View Post
Pressure should not be a problem, if we’re talking 44 Magnum. You didn’t mention your primer... ?

In any case, with that big bevel base and your flared case mouths I don’t see how you could damage the bullet. Did you check to see that your loaded rounds drop easily into all of your chambers?

If you’re using this ammo in a 29-2 or similar gun with large exit bores in the cylinder you might be surprised how well these loads work. Get back to us on that.
Yes it is a Model 29-2 44 Magnum and the primers used were Federal Large Pistol Magnum Primers. The throats measured .4334 and the grooves measured .4294 so I went with a .433 diameter bullet.

Last edited by browndd1; 05-05-2018 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Correction on the primers
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:27 PM
SLT223 SLT223 is offline
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I'd shoot them. I understand your pressure concern with the over sized slug. I'm willing to bet at 22.5gr you will not have high pressure signs, and will have some unburned kernels.
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Old 05-05-2018, 08:46 AM
Forrest r Forrest r is offline
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A chronograph is your friend.

FWIW:
I have a couple of different molds that cast the 240gr/245gr keith swc's for the 44cal's.
A early ideal mold with square lube groove casts bullet that measures from the base of the bullet to the top of the crimp groove .450"
A 2nd newer mold casts a bullet from the base of the bullet top the top of the crimp groove .475".

The lyman 49th addition lists:
429421 1.710" oal use of a mag primer 4" bbl
h-110 24.0gr 1218fps to 25.0gr 1301fps

With all the different designs/styles of the "keith" swc for the 44cals. The oal really means nothing, it's the amount of case capacity that the bullet takes up/uses that's important.






The pictures posted above are of cases with a lot less case capacity then the 44mag. I simply posted them to show how the amount of the bullet in the case/case capacity can affect the pressure of the load.

I swage a lot of my own bullet or cast bullets from obscure molds that their is no data for. I always measure the amount of the bullet that is going to be seated in the case and compare that to known bullets/data.

I have a 29-3 that has .4330 cylinders and a .4297 bore. I use a .432 bullet. I've never had the best luck/accuracy when I have either sized bullets down more than 3/1000th's or shot them and the bbl sized them down 3 or more thousands.


Let us know how your test loads work out.
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Old 05-05-2018, 11:23 AM
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BUT! If you use DARDAS bullets you must read, sign and recite the DARDAS OATH! Only then will you be able to load their bullets successfully as they are unlike any other cast bullets in the world!!


"It is imperative that you understand that cast bullets are a world apart from jacketed bullets - they are NOT the same! The reloading process for cast bullets MUST NOT in anyway, shape, or form, alter, damage or destroy the cast bullet! It is like comparing rocks to bananas - hard vs. soft. Your cast bullets fall into the 'soft' category. They are to be treated with tender loving care! Your dies shall NOT damage them! Do not flare the case mouths for cast bullet reloading - you will damage them by shaving the shanks of the bullets during the seating operation. If you don't believe me, take a magnifying loop and look very closely at the reloaded cast bullet cartridge and you will see shavings that are deposited on the edge of the case mouth about 180 degrees around the mouth. Why is this you ask? It is because you are shaving the bullets as they are being seated. The bullet rotates on top of the radius edge that you created by flaring the case mouth. You then have to hope and pray that the seater stem will capture the nose of the bullet and re-right it to make it straight with the case - it isn't going happen! Thou Shalt Not Flare Case Mouths For Cast Bullets! You MUST use the correct technique for preparing the case mouths to receive cast bullets without damaging them. And that is with the use of the Lyman 2 Step M Expander Die. This die imparts a 2 step I.D. into the case mouth. It creates a slip fit nest for the bullet to slide into. Thus preventing and eliminating the tipping of the bullet and the premature closure of the case mouth onto the bullet during the seating operation. Lyman 4 die sets are the only dies manufactured that will reload cast bullets and jacketed bullets interchangeably and correctly. And this is due to the 2 Step M die that is incorporated into their 4 die sets. There are other die manufacturers that have emulated the Lyman M Die. It is also imperative that you understand the critical nature of the seater stem in your seater die! Make absolutely certain that the seater stem is engaging the ogive of the bullet about half way down from the tip. And that the tip is not contacting the seater stem! This is critical for straight bullet alignment (preventing shaving the bullet) during the seating operation. Cast bullet reloading is entirely different than jacketed bullet reloading - understand this and you are on your way to a very successful career with cast bullet reloading and shooting!
Do not use post crimping dies for cast bullet reloading. Cast bullets MUST remain in their pristine state in order to shoot accurately. Post crimping dies will swage the entire cartridge thus decreasing the cast bullet's diameter and thus will cause many unwanted issues."

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Old 05-05-2018, 03:13 PM
cowboy4evr cowboy4evr is online now
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The " bore diameter " is not the important measurement . It's the " groove" diameter of a barrel , the larger of the 2 measurements that is the one that you want to know . I believe the OP made a mistake in saying he used " CCI 550 small pistol magnum primers " . I have never seen a 44 magnum case that used small pistol primers . Regards , Paul
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy4evr View Post
The " bore diameter " is not the important measurement . It's the " groove" diameter of a barrel , the larger of the 2 measurements that is the one that you want to know . I believe the OP made a mistake in saying he used " CCI 550 small pistol magnum primers " . I have never seen a 44 magnum case that used small pistol primers . Regards , Paul
Correction, I used Federal Large Pistol Magnum primers
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLT223 View Post
I'd shoot them. I understand your pressure concern with the over sized slug. I'm willing to bet at 22.5gr you will not have high pressure signs, and will have some unburned kernels.
Yes, it looked like some small specs of something was still in some of the cases.
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M29since14 View Post
Pressure should not be a problem, if weíre talking 44 Magnum. You didnít mention your primer... ?

In any case, with that big bevel base and your flared case mouths I donít see how you could damage the bullet. Did you check to see that your loaded rounds drop easily into all of your chambers?

If youíre using this ammo in a 29-2 or similar gun with large exit bores in the cylinder you might be surprised how well these loads work. Get back to us on that.
When seating the bullet it is not a smooth transition and I can feel the grooves or something like a bump in the road if you will when seating. Don't know if this matters or not?
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:52 PM
M29since14 M29since14 is online now
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If you are shaving lead as you seat you most likely will see the lead slivers either around the mouth of your loaded cases or packed into the seating die. If you see no lead slivers, youíre probably ok. BTW, are you seating and crimping separately, or trying to do both at once? I always recommend the two-step process, but some seem to get along just fine doing it the other way.
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M29since14 View Post
If you are shaving lead as you seat you most likely will see the lead slivers either around the mouth of your loaded cases or packed into the seating die. If you see no lead slivers, youíre probably ok. BTW, are you seating and crimping separately, or trying to do both at once? I always recommend the two-step process, but some seem to get along just fine doing it the other way.
I use a two step process first seating and then crimping.
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