OK, the title is a bit dramatic. I don't want to get into the issue of how much a SW revolver can take when it comes to heavy loads, but I would like to come up with a load that is easy on my Smiths, but not really plinking loads.

I bet there is a formula for this but I don't know what it would be. My question is whether a larger bullet at a slower speed, or a lighter bullet at a higher speed is less punishing to the gun.

For example, I am looking at a 300 grain cast bullet at 900 fps, versus a 240 grain at 1000 fps for my 629. Or a 158 grain cast at 1275 fps versus a 180 grain at 1075 fps in my 686.

Maybe energy (fpe) is the answer. Maybe not. Any ideas? Any guesses?

Fps is a pretty worthless metric for anything.

Momentum (velocity times weight) is much more useful for everything except selling ammo and impressing the uninitiated.

Well, with the exception of shotgun shells for trap, I have not reloaded in years. I guess I am wondering, if you are following a reloading manual and component recommendation, the max load listed would have been tested for CUP or PSI commensurate with today's steels, and design parameters. So I think the manual has already done that for you. So( from memory) a 44mag load with a 180 gr. projectile is a max of 23gr of 2400( again from memory), that is it for that weight and powder relative to strength of all materials concerned, like cases, cylinder, back strap etc. Now if the minimum were 18 grains of 2400, personally I might load something like 21 gr. of powder. I am not sure it is really a question of heavier and slower vs. lighter and faster if you are following a manual. Hope I said what I wanted to say correctly

I'm not sure what you're trying to achieve - for the gun (and your hand) it doesn't matter whether bullet is fat and slow or lean and fast. If they produce same energy that same energy will be applied back (each action has equal and opposite reaction). It "might" feel different but imho same energy would put same "wear and tear" on equipment.

Every round fired causes wear and tear on a firearm. Punishing is a subjective term

Light projectiles with large charges of high energy powders erode throats faster.

Heavy projectiles at full power levels wear on the stop notches and bolt faster

Neither of the 44 Magnum loads you list are punishing and presuming that your 629 was manufactured after the adoption of the endurance package the firearm will hold up just fine

The 357 loads you list make little to no difference which one that you choose

If you want punshing . . . . .

725 grain wadcutter moving out at over 1200 FPS. . . Punishing on what it hits (and on your hand) but not punishing on the firearm

I don't load for .44 Mag per se, but I do load .44 Special class loads in magnum cases for my Model 69. Usually with a large bore such as .44 or .45, I tend lighter bullets for an entirely different reason than you asking about. I choose lighter bullets for cost reasons. I doubt if moderate loads from any good reloading manual are going to produce serious wear in your S&W revolver.

Myself I'd use the lighter bullet and load middle of the range if I wanted something a little hotter then plinking rounds but with less thump than full-house loads. Of course that is pretty much how I load most of my "magnum" rounds anyway.

I think I'm your man! What you want is a heavy bullet, going S L O W if you want to save your hands and keep your teeth from rattling.

I shoot bowling pin matches on a regular basis using my 4" 686 and I've reloaded 158gr and 180gr bullets.

Although I don't own a 629, my buddy does and uses his for bowling pin matches as well. And he reloads too!

For 357 magnum however, it's a more snappier round but these loads I'll share will blow the pin straight off the table. I used these loads in my 4" 686 and been real happy with them.

158gr Hornady XTP or Berry's 158gr FMJ-FP
13.9gr H110
winchester small pistol magnum primer
COL 1.590"

180 gr Hornady XTP
11.9gr H110
winchester small pistol magnum primer
COL 1.590"


I think using a 300gr bullet in a 44 magnum is going to be more brutal than a 240gr bullet. I've noticed that heavier bullets hurt more than lighter ones when loaded to magnum velocities. lol

But here's a load that my pal uses in his 629. This load has been dummied down because a starting load of Unique is like 9.5gr. But that's magnum territory.

44 magnum

7.9gr Unique
240gr bullet
COL 1.600"

With knocking down a 3 pound solid maple bowling pin back 3' off a metal table set at 20 yards away you want a slow & heavy bullet. This dummied down 44 mag load will blow the pins straight back no problem and save your hands for all day shooting and it's still more powerful than a 44 special.

Damage to the target:

E=MC squared in everyday terms: Weight in grains x Velocity in FPS x Velocity Divided by 450240= Foot Pounds of energy.

Momentum: Velocity in FPS x Weight in grains Divided by 7000 = Foot pounds of momentum.

John Taylor Knock Down Factor (developed for Elephant Rifles): Weight in grains x FPS x Diameter in inches Divided by 7000= TDF

Three ways to say what is going on for the transfer of energy.

My experience says it isn't so much "How fast a bullet goes" as much as "how fast that same weight bullet stops"! Example: a RN/FMJ 38 Special+P, won't stop inside most man sized target, but a soft point or hollow point will. In the quick stopping, is the full transfer of energy! (and tissue damage)

Damage to the firearm or operator:

For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction!

In guns we call this recoil. It is as simple as the above formulas. But the much harder to measure figure is Felt Recoil. The weight of the gun, the duration of the explosion, the weight of the bullet AND the powder charge, In handguns, the type and location of the grips / in rifles, the design of the stock, AND any felt recoil reducers ( including , the area of contact, soft/ spongy surface, or spring or hydraulic pistons to delay felt recoil)

Basically, if a load kicks the snot out of you, it kicks the snot out of your gun too! High Quality firearms last longer, but abuse is abuse!

Ivan

I'm thinking that starting loads from any of the recognized reloading manuals would be just the ticket.

__________________
Foster Positivity.

True but the cool thing about revolvers is they can be downloaded to almost nil since they don't rely on the recoil to push back against springs and the weight of the slide in order to function.

The 158 gr bullet used to be something of a standard for .357. I'd use a medium powder like Unique, BE 86, Acc #7 around 1000 fps and see how it feels.

2400 can be downloaded to about 12.5 grains for 158 gr SWC. I don't have my books handy, but that's a good bet.

Either a medium powder than you can load warm and get a good burn, or a magnum powder that is downloadable but will burn a little dirtier. 2400 leave gold dust everywhere. (No big deal)

H110/Win 296 DO NOT download well. Only use these for max or close to max loads.

__________________
"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Some people think that the Power Factor is a good way to figure out
where a load is in the recoil department.

While a 125pf in a 38 is said to be a target starting load.....
for non-match I like a pf92 in my M49 with a 148HBwc and
a pf113 in my C9 9mm with a 115gr plated bullet.

In my 9mm loads with plated bullets I try not to shoot a +P loading
and try to make my Maximum loads only up to NATO spec's
which seem to fit well with my plated bullets in the speed department.

Any bullet for any weapon can be loaded from weak to heavy recoil.
It is just a matter of how much powder the load can take, from a good
loading manual.
Hard to beat the factory standard ammo for an idea of a medium
to Medium light loading.
If that is not enough, you can load up to medium heavy, that is
in the NATO area, somewhere between Standard and a +P loading.
Generally not too hard on a weapon if not over used.

Have fun.

S&W gave you the answer when they introduced the E modification in their model 29/629.The company stated that since shooters were now(then)using heavier than normal bullets(265 to300 vs 240 gr)because of those tough to topple over rams,they modified some internal parts to make the guns last longer.So the heavier the bullet,the more amount of shock the gun will have to sustain.
When you light up a bullet of 240gr vs another of 300 gr,what happens?Both are loaded to near max pressure of say 35,000PSI.So the amount of pressure being the same,what is the difference?
The 300gr being heavier will take more time(milliseconds)to start moving out of the brass,thus enlarging the combustion chamber(what I like to call the boiler room).Keep in mind that both being loaded at 35Kpsi and since the 240gr will start moving out more quickly,the top pressure will last during less time with the lighter bullet.This means that the heavier bullet will apply the top pressure against the components of the gun for a longer time;the gun will then have a shorter lifespan and your hand will feel the same 35KPSI but over a longer period of time.The human perception will be:it kicks more.
In short,a light bullet at the same pressure will feel lighter in your hand and be easier on the tool firing it.

300gr at 900 will put more recoil impulse than 240 @ 1000. For your 357mag loads, I dont think there is much diff between the two you indicated.

__________________
NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

So are you sure you want to shoot a box of 50, 357 Magnum lead 158gr or more
through your 686, at one sitting ?

I have a 158 Lwc from 788fps up to 1320fps out of my 6" 686
and after a box at 1275fps you might want to drop down to around
1108fps for your target loads, after you clean your weapon and
see the leading that should be in your barrel, if the bullets hardness
is not right for the fps or your barrel dia.

Have fun.