I have a Rem 700 20in barrel. I reload for I am thinking of buying a AR-10 .If the brass is full length sized can I shoot it in both or should the brass be kept separate . I know I will probably not find a load that works in both guns. just wondered about brass .

Don't know if it answers your question, but I shoot the same mixed brass .223 loads in my Rem 788 and AR.

I would keep the cases separate for each firearm, the AR-10 will most likely have a larger chamber. Even after full length resizing the brass wants to spring back to its fired size. And at the same die settings the AR-10 cases may not chamber in your Remington 700.

Normally shoulder bump on a bolt action is .001 to .002 and on a semi-auto it should be .003 to .006.

On top of this on a semi-auto the case diameter should be resized .003 to .005 smaller in diameter than its fired diameter. This allows the case to spring back from the chamber walls and extract reliably.

Bottom line, keep the cases separate and remember the dies adjustments will also be different.

NOTE, chambers and dies vary in size and as a example I have a Lee .223 die that will size the case smaller in diameter than my RCBS small base die. And this same lee die will push the case shoulder back further than the RCBS small base die.

A small base die sizes the case back to minimum SAAMI dimensions, meaning it sizes the case smaller in diameter and will push the shoulder back more than a standard die.

It will work. But will probably have a short life. I shoot both bolt and semi-autos (in several calibers) Now that brass is available again and fairly inexpensive. I would recommend getting/sorting a group of brass (for 308 bolt gun I would get maybe 2 or 3 hundred) and keep them separate from your auto brass. If you shoot the auto as a match rifle I would do the same with it. Only maybe 500 cases to start. Cases in a bolt gun can last many reloads (I have 06 cases that have been reloaded a dozen times or more) while auto cases are only good for a much shorter time (depending on the rifle and who you believe) maybe 3 to 5 times as match cases and a couple more for practice. (I only shoot my match cases 3 times in any of my auto rifles and then once or twice as practice brass and then they hit the scrape bucket. HTH

if your Ar -10 needs small base dies keep it separate. Only by checking fired cases will you be able to answer this question.

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Front sight and squeeze

You can get by with just two boxes of ammo for the bolt action.

The Auto will be a lot harder on cases and I would also keep them
separate from the other weapon since the case should be different
for a correct fit, 98% of the time.

Very few powders and loads work in a bolt and auto but a area
around 4895/4064 might work for you ?

Tight groups.

[QUOTE=Nevada Ed;140120489]You can get by with just two boxes of ammo for the bolt action.

I DON'T THINK SO! I like to have at least 100 pieces of brass for a bolt gun and how many can I get for a semi.

Do yourself a favor. Watch for Lapua brass on sale and buy 100 pieces for your bolt gun. Buy more if your budget permits. Then buy a bunch of processed mil spec brass for your AR10. That assumes you aren't going to try to make the AR10 into a match rifle. Keep in mind a semi chunks brass so you can lose a lot particularly if you aren't on a manicured range.

W my 308s, my heavy barrel gets its own Lapua. My hunting rifles get commercial brass and I have one 308 sporter that shoots Hornady basic factory ammo as well as any handload W A HUNTING BULLET that I have found. It shoots about 3/4 inch 3 shot groups which from a box stock 308 Ruger 77 is good for hunting. In 2 seasons 10 dead animals w 10 shots at 85 to 300 yards. I'm trying to duplicate that load. I'm frugal! My AR10 and Ruger Scout Rifle get processed mil spec for handloads and even bulk mil surplus or Russian steel case ammo. Once those are sighted in they get shot from field positions so blasting ammo shoots as well as I can. That is off hand kneeling or sitting. A fused neck doesnt allow me to shoot prone. I have never tried for an accuracy load in either. Keep in mind the scout has a low power forward mounted scope w a big German 3 post reticle. That type scope is for quick center hits not long range precision. The AR10 has a true 1x to 6x w a donut and crosshair reticle. The AR10 and the Scout rifles are for general use. If I was woods bumming and saw a game animal in season that I wanted I'd shoot out to 200 yards w either assuming a load w a hunting bullet. For pigs I'd even use a FMJ bullet out of either but I'd be ready to shoot again fast if need be.

I've never had a problem using the same brass/load for bolt action/semi-auto combo's using 223's, 308's & 30-06's. I always found an accurate load for the bolt guns and used the same ammo in the semi-auto's.

Forrest
I shoot prairie dogs using 3 223 rifles. I find a load that works acceptably in all three rifles but it isn't the best load for any single one of them. That way no digging for different box of ammo when a barrel gets hot and I switch rifles. The magic load would be one load that is the most accurate load in all three. If that is found I am taking up hunting unicorns and buying lottery tickets.

I also like to take 2 identically chambered deer rifles to hunting camp. I zero both for my primary rifle's best load. That way I never have the wrong box of ammo in my hunting pack. If a rifle gets dropped or a scope goes South I switch. That way I spend my time in camp hunting not messing w rifles. Since I drive to where I hunt my pick up truck doesn't mind me carrying extra stuff.

For my 6 different 308 rifles I do what I indicated above depending on use. I switched to 308 being primary because I can have a target rifle, a hunting rifle, a factory Scout Rifle and a mag fed semi chambered the same. Worse case I can shoot mil surplus ammo in all of them. It isn't as cheap as it used to be but it will be a cold day when there isn't a pile of 308 on my ammo shelves. Could do the same w 223 but I want more cartridge for hunting. 30-06 used to be my 1st choice but left hand friendly 30-06s are very scarce. If I had to live w only 1 rifle the factory Ruger Scout Rifle in 308 can do everything reasonably well.

Service rifles(AR10) are very hard on brass. The fired case is basically being ripped out of the chamber. I would at least use separate brass for each rifle. The AR brass should likely be resized differently also, to prevent overworking the brass. Bigedp51 has an excellent response.

I load bolt guns and semi autos separately in three calibers, for a variety of reasons.

Gas operated semi autos are restricted by port pressure. A heavy for caliber bullet combined with a slow burning progressive powder that is great hunting load and no problem in a Model 70 Winchester is a bent operating rod, or worse in an M1.

Going the other way, a load that works in a semi auto is almost always OK in a bolt gun. The only fly in that ointment come usually in .223/5.56 where the older varmint rifles might have 1-14 or 1-12 twist rates and not stabilize the heavier bullets that are now popular.

None of my rifles in 5.56/.223, 7.62/.308 or .30-06 require small base dies, but sometimes they are needed for reliable operation in a semi auto. Reliable feeding from a semi auto's magazines often limits bullet shape and cartridge OAL.

My reloaded rounds that run fine in my FN FAL jam in my Sig 716.. and I chamber checked them first.

My best advise would be to try using the same ammo and see what happens. No matter what we say, it really depends on how they actually work in YOUR guns. If they work fine then great - if not, then you will have to separate and customize each one to the Rifle.