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  #1  
Old 08-24-2018, 07:39 PM
dwpmusic dwpmusic is offline
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OK, as short and unsweet as I can make it. My reloads, 629-4. Range yesterday. Fired 187 rounds .44spl and 87 rounds .44mag. Cleaned gun today. Looks great to me. NOW, no .44Mag rounds will seat enough in the cylinder to allow it to close. Neither will 240gr Hornady XTP factory rounds. Are you kidding me?? Yes, I've read the articles on the perils of shooting .44spl in .44mag revolvers. But 187 rounds. Come on. Am I looking at some kind of lead cleaning situation every time I shoot a few .44spl?? Oh yeah, the bullets were 200gr Oregon Trail. Help an old guy out. Bye the way, they shot well.
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:02 PM
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Yeah, sounds like you have a crud build-up on the step in the cylinder bore. I have OFTEN shot .44 special loads in a .44 magnum and never had it that bad, but it was mostly my own loads which were not particularly intense. Now days I simply avoid the problem and load .44 spec loads in .44 mag cases and avoid the problem. Get a slightly oversized bore brush (45 cal) and scrub well. You might try a dental tool or similar scraper and lightly go around the cylinder bores from the back side. It is a pain in the butt but, in the long run, is not that big a deal unless you really hate cleaning guns.
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwpmusic View Post
OK, as short and unsweet as I can make it. My reloads, 629-4. Range yesterday. Fired 187 rounds .44spl and 87 rounds .44mag. Cleaned gun today. Looks great to me. NOW, no .44Mag rounds will seat enough in the cylinder to allow it to close. Neither will 240gr Hornady XTP factory rounds. Are you kidding me?? Yes, I've read the articles on the perils of shooting .44spl in .44mag revolvers. But 187 rounds. Come on. Am I looking at some kind of lead cleaning situation every time I shoot a few .44spl?? Oh yeah, the bullets were 200gr Oregon Trail. Help an old guy out. Bye the way, they shot well.
I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED A PROBLEM LIKE THAT, SHOOTING .44 SPL AND .44 MAG RELOADS, PURCHASED FROM A LGS. THEY BOTH USE THE SAME 240 GR, LEAD SWC BULLETS......
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:40 PM
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I good bore brush and some Kroil or Marvel Mystery Oil will clean that crud ring right out . I often shoot 44 spl in 44 mag guns . The 44 spl guns are so expensive it doesn't make sense to buy one . My fiancé shoots 38 spl in 357 magnum guns and they clean up just fine . Soooo , shoot your 44 spl's in your magnum gun , clean the cylinder charge holes and have a great time shooting 44 spls's in your magnum gun . After 50 rounds of specials , shoot a couple of cylinders of magnum loads . They don't have to be " barn burners " . Just good mid range loads will suffice such as , 8.0 grs of HP-38 / W-231 with a 240 gr swc bullet makes a great mid range load . Fun to shoot and serves a purpose . Good Luck , Paul
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:57 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I suppose that has to be the problem but we're only talking about less than 200 .44spl, not 2,000. I can't see it. But if that in fact is what it is this revolver won't see any more .44spl brass.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:00 PM
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You must be using a powder and bullet combination that is exceptionally dirty. I shot 165 rounds of 44 Russian in a 44 SPL last week, then reloaded it with 44 SPL and dropped it in back in my pocket for CCW duty. There was very little carbon build-up, and what was there came out easily with a boresnake and Hoppes #9 when I got home. As I recall, my Russian load is 3.5gr of HP38 and a 180gr coated LSWC.

Were you using a very hot powder like Titegroup?

Last edited by dr. mordo; 08-24-2018 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:06 PM
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I shoot 44 Special and 44 Russian ammo in my 44 Magnum revolvers regularly, and have never experienced difficulty in extracting (or loading for that matter). I also shoot 38 Specials in .358 Magnum guns without incident. I don't understand why the OP is having such trouble.

I use home made cast lead bullets and Unique or 2400 powder almost exclusively, for what it is worth.

Last edited by Warren Sear; 08-24-2018 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo View Post
You must be using a powder and bullet combination that is exceptionally dirty. I shot 165 rounds of 44 Russian in a 44 SPL last week, then reloaded it with 44 SPL and dropped it in back in my pocket for CCW duty. There was very little carbon build-up, and what was there came out easily with a boresnake and Hoppes #9 when I got home. As I recall, my Russian load is 3.5gr of HP38 and a 180gr coated LSWC.

Were you using a very hot powder like Titegroup?
Using Win231 for both Mag and Spl cases. Same Oregon Trail 200gr RNFP for both. 5.3gr for the spl and 7.3gr for the mag. Go figure. I just want it cleaned and not have it happen again. I just don't think this should have happened with such a few rounds. Just a little ticked at myself.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Warren Sear View Post
I shoot 44 Special and 44 Russian ammo in my 44 Magnum revolvers regularly, and have never experienced difficulty in extracting (or loading for that matter). I also shoot 38 Specials in .358 Magnum guns without incident. I don't understand why the OP is having such trouble.

I use home made cast lead bullets and Unique of 2400 powder almost exclusively, for what it is worth.
Then, what else could my problem be? Been shooting 38spl in my 357s for years with no problem at all.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:34 PM
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get yourself one of those copper brillo dish scrubbing pads. cut a little square. wrap in around a brush on a rod. it will take all the lead out with little effort. then just oil and clean normally.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:02 PM
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Is the bore heavily leaded too???


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Old 08-24-2018, 10:07 PM
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Is the bore heavily leaded too???


.
Clean as a whistle. Shines like it is brand new. One of the reasons that I'm so puzzled.
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Old 08-25-2018, 12:39 AM
41mag657ss 41mag657ss is offline
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Have you checked to see if there is some gunk under the extractor star? Sometimes when cleaning, you loosen some stuff that travels.
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Old 08-25-2018, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwpmusic View Post
Been shooting 38spl in my 357s for years with no problem at all.
That combination is where I first experienced this problem.

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Using Win231 for both Mag and Spl cases. Same Oregon Trail 200gr RNFP for both. 5.3gr for the spl and 7.3gr for the mag. Go figure. I just want it cleaned and not have it happen again. I just don't think this should have happened with such a few rounds. Just a little ticked at myself.
.

I believe it's worse when shooting lead bullets in the shorter case & then trying to shoot high pressure jacketed bullets in the longer case.

Either stick with all 44 Spcl cases or load the 44 Mag cases done to 44 Spcl power & you won't be ticked off again... at least for that problem.

.
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Old 08-25-2018, 01:04 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I suppose that has to be the problem but we're only talking about less than 200 .44spl, not 2,000. I can't see it. But if that in fact is what it is this revolver won't see any more .44spl brass.
THERE IS NO NEED TO TAKE THAT APPROACH. I AGREE WITH THOSE THAT HAVE SUGGESTED THAT THE POWDER YOU ARE USING MAY BE EXCEPTIONALLY DIRTY.....

PERHAPS YOU COULD USE YOUR CURRENT POWDER SOLELY FOR YOUR MAGNUM LOADS (AND ANY OTHER SINGLE LENGTH CALIBER), AND FIND A CLEANER BURNING POWDER FOR YOUR .44 SPL, AND .38 SPL RELOADS.....

WHILE 200 ROUNDS DOESN'T SOUND LIKE MUCH, IT IS STILL 4 BOXES OF VERY DIRTY AMMO. SCRUB YOUR BARREL THOROUGHLY WITH A BORE BRUSH. THEN SHOOT A BOX OR TWO OF FACTORY TARGET LOADS IN .44 SPL.....

THEN WITHOUT CLEANING YOUR BARREL AGAIN, TRY SHOOTING YOUR CURRENT .44 MAGNUM RELOADS. IF THEY FULLY CHAMBER AND SEAT, YOUR PROBLEM IS YOUR DIRTY BURNING POWDER......
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Old 08-25-2018, 01:10 AM
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get yourself one of those copper brillo dish scrubbing pads. cut a little square. wrap in around a brush on a rod. it will take all the lead out with little effort. then just oil and clean normally.
+1^^^^^

I've done this for decades, copper chore boy on a worn bore brush with a piece of clean rod. Chuck it up in a drill, takes less than a minute to clean all the cylinder holes. It's a mild form of barnishing.

Those rock hard bullets your using (24bhn) will leave carbon/lead rings in the cylinders every time with low pressure loads. I have no idea why oregon trail makes their bullets out of such a hard alloy. A 10bhn/11bhn bullet like the kind matt's bullets sells would be a better choice in lead bullets. Coated bullets would be another option.

A 200 round range session with coated bullets/38spl's in a 357.

No cleaning needed for another 600 or 700 rounds. 357's drop in the cylinders, no ring/build-up. But then again I'm using/shooting 9bhn coated bullets. Not 24bhn lead bullets.

Lyman uses an alloy called "lyman #2 alloy", it's 16bhn & is used for rifle bullets. A picture of 16bhn rifle bullets, one has been coated & the other was sized and traditionally lubed.


35,000+psi loads in a 308w with those 16bhn bullets pictured above.



borescope pictures of the 308w bbl



I couldn't even begin to count how many 44spl's I've shot in the 44mags. Same goes for 38spl's in the 357's. Always kept the alloy & lube soft. Some of my favorite 44spl plinking bullets.

The 220gr is a hbwc and the 175gr is a custom bullet that has different crimp/seating rings on both ends of the bullet. Seat that 175gr with the little end of the bullet sticking out in the 44mag cases & the big end sticking out in the 44spl cases. The end result is the same case volume/load/accuracy/oal with either case.

Anyway, use a softer bullet. You'll still get a ring built up in the cylinders. But it will take longer to form & yes you get the same ring built up with 44mag's or 357's for that matter. The ring is just further down in the cylinders/destroys accuracy. Nothing a bore brush with a piece of copper or bronze scrubbing pad wrapped around couldn't handle.
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:20 AM
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No luck so far this morning with all that I've tried. Off to find some Marvel Mystery Oil. But, I have arrived at the definitive solution if I want to continue loading .44spl. Ruger is still making a beautiful .44spl.
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:54 AM
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I find Weaposhield and elbow grease get the lead out for me. I have been known to add jb’s bore paste in the mix to help out.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:19 AM
Dan Christopher Dan Christopher is offline
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The beauty of reloading for magnums is that you don't have to use specials anymore, unless you just want to. 7grs of Unique and a 240gr lead bullet is a combo you can shoot all day.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:29 AM
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You don't need or want to use "elbow grease" or abrasives to remove lead fouling from a gun. Either of these will probably damage your gun.

There have been excellent tips given above on how to quickly, easily, safely, and effectively remove fouling without damage to your revolver.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:40 AM
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Most likely a combination of things coming together to cause this difficulty. Powder charge not providing clean combustion. Bullet type or composition. Bullet lubricant (if cast or swaged). Manufacturing tolerances of the revolver being on the tighter end of the allowable range. Perhaps even excessive oil in the chambers capturing powder residue (chambers need to be clean and dry to function properly).

I have fired tens of thousands of .38 Special cast bullet loads in my old Model 19 .357 revolver. Not unusual to experience a "crud ring" in the chambers that might prevent chambering a .357 cartridge. Routine cleaning will take care of it (I like a dry bronze brush as the first step which will generally dislodge just about any carbon or lead deposits).

I own several .44 Magnum revolvers, and I shoot .44 Specials just about exclusively (it has been at least 10 years since I fired a .44 Magnum cartridge). If I ever choose to load magnums again I will certainly make sure they chamber easily before I go hunting (which is the only real use for magnum ammo, in my opinion).

Overall, a pretty normal event that might seem to be more of an issue than it really is.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwpmusic View Post
No luck so far this morning with all that I've tried. Off to find some Marvel Mystery Oil. But, I have arrived at the definitive solution if I want to continue loading .44spl. Ruger is still making a beautiful .44spl.

There are no magic solvents that actually dissolve or remove LEAD. Carbon yes but not LEAD other than a acid mixture that I do not advise using.

Here is a Helpful hint from Heloise:

Take a piece of 44 MAG brass and slightly flare it so it just barely fits in the cylinders. Put some solvent (any kind) in the cylinders and then lightly tap the brass into each cylinder it will scrape out excess lead/carbon. Then follow up with a oversized bore brush (no, not a 44 cal brush that fits the bore!) bigger!

If you buy Chore Boy scrubbers take a magnet and be sure you get copper ,not colored steel.

Take two aspirin and call me later,
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Old 08-25-2018, 12:32 PM
Old Arkansawyer Old Arkansawyer is offline
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My old Ruger Blackhawk 44mag used to digest both with no problem. I
finally sold the Ruger as I was shooting mostly 44 specials. Sort of wish
I had kept the 44mag but I didn't. Probably needed a few $. That was
the only 44 mag I have ever owned but I found the 44 special did every-
thing I needed.
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Old 08-25-2018, 01:45 PM
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No luck so far this morning with all that I've tried. Off to find some Marvel Mystery Oil. But, I have arrived at the definitive solution if I want to continue loading .44spl. Ruger is still making a beautiful .44spl.
There is no powder that won't burn clean to stop foaling. Every powder that is made will cause fouling in the cylinder chamber of your revolver. Look at the face of the cylinder that faces the forcing cone, only after a few shots, it's dirty and the same will happen inside of the chamber.

Consider shooting the long cartridge cases first and then the next length to minimize/reduce the issue at hand.

But then again, why must we be limit or controlled.

I was at one time in the same rut you are experiencing right now. I did what others are suggesting and used a copper chore boy to clean each cylinder chamber. Takes some time but will get the job done.

I even took a 44 mag cartridge case and modified it so that I could scrub the cylinder while out at the range. It worked well on powder residue but not so much on a crud ring inside of the cylinder chamber.

Solvents and a chore boy just took way to long to get the job done in a timely manner.

I talked to a tool and die friend at work and we settled on machining a precision tool for cleaning the crud ring. I had one made for 357 Mag and 44 Mag. This tool takes less than 5 seconds per cylinder chamber to use. I shoot several length cartridge cases in my 357 Mag and 44 Mag revolvers and these tools has made my shooting more enjoyable.

Since I've had these tools made. I haven't even used a copper chore boy and any solvents to clean my cylinder chambers (not the whole revolver, just the chamber cylinders). All I use when I'm done shooting, is Mothers Mag polish to clean the cylinder chambers on all of my revolvers. The rest of the revolver, just a normal cleaning (just to clarify).

Just a reminder if you have a tool made. Each cylinder has a index ramp from the cylinder chamber to the throat. Bevel the end of the tool as to keep the tool from damaging the index ramp.
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Old 08-25-2018, 02:04 PM
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Hmmm, well, not giving up but I must say I am temporarily stumped. Got to be someone better than me and I know there are many. I've done all I can to clean the bore/cylinders of this gun and I still can't get it to accept my .44Mag reloads. Even tried the Marvel Mystery Oil and I must say that the patches did come out dirty so I know it was doing something. But my rounds continued to not seat in the cylinder enough to close it. Let's see what somebody who does it for a living has to say.

So, just to make things interesting I said, why not just try this same drill out on my .357s/.38s (of which I have a few) and see if one of these will do it. I got some of my .38 and .357 reloads out and some Hornady 158gr XTP out. Everything was seating fine until I got to my 27-2 and only the Hornady rounds would seat correctly. My .357 reloads would not. Interesting. So I put the caliper to all of the and came up with a Max COAL of 1.579 for my reloads and 1.550 for the Hornady. So, somewhere in that .029 difference must be the magical spot. So, I suppose I need to take the 27 with me to the doctor also.

To bore you more. I am not a well experienced reloader. I've been at it for about six years but many volumes could be written about what I don't know. It is fun and I enjoy it but I don't know the tricks of the trade as most of you do. I value the collective knowledge that this group offers and I appreciate the input. I have learned a lot and obviously have "a ways to go". Thanks to all who offer their assistance.

One last question. Straight up. Is Winchester231/HP38 considered a "dirty powder". I have used it for everything I reload and only now am I hearing that it is.
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Old 08-25-2018, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by castleadslinger View Post
There is no powder that won't burn clean to stop foaling. Every powder that is made will cause fouling in the cylinder chamber of your revolver. Look at the face of the cylinder that faces the forcing cone, only after a few shots, it's dirty and the same will happen inside of the chamber.

Consider shooting the long cartridge cases first and then the next length to minimize/reduce the issue at hand.

But then again, why must we be limit or controlled.

I was at one time in the same rut you are experiencing right now. I did what others are suggesting and used a copper chore boy to clean each cylinder chamber. Takes some time but will get the job done.

I even took a 44 mag cartridge case and modified it so that I could scrub the cylinder while out at the range. It worked well on powder residue but not so much on a crud ring inside of the cylinder chamber.

Solvents and a chore boy just took way to long to get the job done in a timely manner.

I talked to a tool and die friend at work and we settled on machining a precision tool for cleaning the crud ring. I had one made for 357 Mag and 44 Mag. This tool takes less than 5 seconds per cylinder chamber to use. I shoot several length cartridge cases in my 357 Mag and 44 Mag revolvers and these tools has made my shooting more enjoyable.

Since I've had these tools made. I haven't even used a copper chore boy and any solvents to clean my cylinder chambers (not the whole revolver, just the chamber cylinders). All I use when I'm done shooting, is Mothers Mag polish to clean the cylinder chambers on all of my revolvers. The rest of the revolver, just a normal cleaning (just to clarify).

Just a reminder if you have a tool made. Each cylinder has a index ramp from the cylinder chamber to the throat. Bevel the end of the tool as to keep the tool from damaging the index ramp.
Just reading your post right after I wrote my last one. Now, yours is a definite, "wish I had a tool like he's got". You should patten that. It would sell.

So, that notwithstanding. I don't plan on fighting this battle again anytime soon. I understand it must not be a really unique problem but it's just one I'd never experienced. One thing that continues to puzzle me is the limited number of rounds that has been through this gun. It is a 629-4 and in pristine condition. I had never owned a .44 Mag and wanted one. After I got it I probably have only put no more than a few hundred rounds through it and put it back in the safe. My concentration has been on .357/.38, .45ACP and 9mm. I didn't even have dies to reload .44. So, I got to thinking, if you're going to just leave the .44 in the safe and not shoot it, you might as well sell it. Couldn't do it. So enter my involvement with reloading for it and I'm glad I'm doing it. I just don't think there has been enough rounds put through this gun by everyone who's owned it to cause this. If I'm wrong, then I'm wrong. Just another day in the life and I'm interested in
what someone else has to say after eyeballing it.

Your tool is a very interesting idea and I'm sure it works great. Thanks for listening to my rant.
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Old 08-25-2018, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dwpmusic View Post
One last question. Straight up. Is Winchester231/HP38 considered a "dirty powder". I have used it for everything I reload and only now am I hearing that it is.
Not any dirtier than the rest of the powders being produced. The key is, put enough powder in the cartridge case to seal the casing in the chamber. Blow-by will really make the casings dirty if the cartridge case does not seal in the chamber.

As a side note, I like W231/HP38. I have 3 jugs of it on hand. Not 3 bottles, but 3 jugs (bottle = 1 lb, jug = 8 lbs).
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:24 PM
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Take a magnum case, slightly flare the mouth, use a deburring tool to sharpen it, use to remove carbon.

Done.

BTW, I really like the moniker 44SOL. LOL! We all know what SOL means, and it's applicable here. Be bad luck to catch a 44Spl indeed. You'd be SOL!
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:26 PM
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"There are no magic solvents that actually dissolve or remove LEAD."

There is. It's called Mercury. Tough to find but I keep a bottle around for occasional use. Just need to be careful to not spill any.

I have never had a problem in firing .44 Special and .44 Mag interchangeably in both my M29 and my Ruger Super Blackhawk.
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:51 PM
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Sounds like it's time for the ol' Lewis lead remover.


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Old 08-25-2018, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dwpmusic View Post
Just reading your post right after I wrote my last one. Now, yours is a definite, "wish I had a tool like he's got". You should patten that. It would sell.
I really like the concept but I'm not sure many would buy into it. Most would shun away when seeing a tool being inserted into the cylinder chamber. Seeing or experiencing it first hand and having used it several times over. It works really well at removing the crud ring from the cylinder. I'm just surprised a well known company hasn't came up one yet. But then again, there would have to be a large demand for such an item.

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Originally Posted by dwpmusic View Post
So, that notwithstanding. I don't plan on fighting this battle again anytime soon. I understand it must not be a really unique problem but it's just one I'd never experienced. One thing that continues to puzzle me is the limited number of rounds that has been through this gun. It is a 629-4 and in pristine condition. I had never owned a .44 Mag and wanted one. After I got it I probably have only put no more than a few hundred rounds through it and put it back in the safe. My concentration has been on .357/.38, .45ACP and 9mm. I didn't even have dies to reload .44. So, I got to thinking, if you're going to just leave the .44 in the safe and not shoot it, you might as well sell it. Couldn't do it. So enter my involvement with reloading for it and I'm glad I'm doing it. I just don't think there has been enough rounds put through this gun by everyone who's owned it to cause this. If I'm wrong, then I'm wrong. Just another day in the life and I'm interested in
what someone else has to say after eyeballing it.
We all had to start somewhere. In time, you will learn just how enjoyable a 44 actually is and it's diversatility. I could throw some salt in your wound and tell you that your 44 Mag can shoot 44 Russian and how the 44 Russian can make your 44 Mag feel like your shooting a 45 acp revolver. Same thing goes for 357 Mag. It can shoot the 38 Short Colt and 38 Long Colt as well. How about some mud in your eye...lol. Then there are 357 Mag and 44 Mag duplex loads that can be shot as well. Like I said....diversatility.

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Your tool is a very interesting idea and I'm sure it works great. Thanks for listening to my rant.
Rant all you want. Sometimes, that's how others learn (including myself). One of my favorite quotes is "Failure is the foundation for success".
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  #32  
Old 08-25-2018, 04:43 PM
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The easiest solution(once you get the chambers clean) is just to load your .44 mag brass to .44 special levels. What I found with my .460 was, that even when .460 ammo would chamber after shooting .45 Colt, the crud left behind would cause higher chamber pressure and also lead to sticky extraction. Loading down my .460 brass to .45 Colt levels for reduced loads eliminated all of it.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:27 PM
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Get your reading glasses on and look under the ejection star. Clean any crud that gets deposited under there.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:45 PM
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Hornady brass is shorter than most manufacturers brass, in order to make the overall length of their LeverEvolution type bullets. Thats why it will chamber and your loads do not.

For some reason, it seems like you have some really difficult stuff to clean, so the oversize bronze brush chucked into a 1/4 inch drill sounds like the way to go. Do one chamber a lot then check for chambering. Magnum brass in a tenth of an inch longer than Special brass. Work until it chambers, then move on to the next. It might take awhile.
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  #35  
Old 08-26-2018, 12:17 AM
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I was just struggling with the lead removal the other day myself. It brought back memories of academy and earlier practice and qualifications. Later qualifications and Dept sanctioned practice usually used jacketed rounds. When I started casting and reloading I didn't get the leading and I think that was mainly due to the lube I used. It was called Tamarik or Tamarax or something. Shooting made a mess but it pretty much wiped off with little lead requiring scrubbing. I don't really feel like casting bullets anymore which is why i bought commercially cast bullets. They came with hard wax lube and that stuff just doesn't get it. It's back to the old lead cleaning days.

I still use Breakfree to clean and good bronze brushes. I'd still use my old Lewis Lead Remover but I need screens etc. The bronze Chore Boy wrapped around a worn bore brush helps. Also very helpful is Neverdull similarly wrapped around a worn brush is also very helpful. It should be wrapped so it's a tight fit in the cylinder chambers. Don't push it all of the way through as you don't want to resize it. Just keep jabbing it up against the ring. Another aid that works amazingly well is the Miracle Cloth.


Cut into patches for a tight fit they are great for removing lead and fouling and can be used even when black from use. Just don't get them anywhere near a blued gun. They're very effective at removing bluing.
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  #36  
Old 08-26-2018, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightowl View Post
Hornady brass is shorter than most manufacturers brass, in order to make the overall length of their LeverEvolution type bullets.
Only the factory brass which was loaded with their 140gr FTX bullets are shorter (.050"), or brass someone modified to load them in. Regular factory Hornady brass is the normal length.

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  #37  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:10 AM
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You need to measure the chamber throats,, Bet they are in the .429 area and those oregon trail bullets you are using are .431.

Last edited by Joe4d; 08-26-2018 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 08-26-2018, 05:03 AM
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l had the same trouble after l shot some 45 Colts in my 460S&W.

Finally ended up wrapping a piece of #1200 grit crocus cloth around a

3/8'' dowel rod soaked w/kroil. Spun it SLOWLY w/my cordless DeWalt...

No more problem.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
"There are no magic solvents that actually dissolve or remove LEAD."

There is. It's called Mercury. Tough to find but I keep a bottle around for occasional use. Just need to be careful to not spill any.

I have never had a problem in firing .44 Special and .44 Mag interchangeably in both my M29 and my Ruger Super Blackhawk.

Mercury is not sold as a "solvent" at the gun counter. A acid mixture also works. Neither is common or recommended.



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Old 08-26-2018, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith44spl View Post
Sounds like it's time for the ol' Lewis lead remover..
I agree about it's time for an ol' Lewis Lead Remover. There not cheap, but in my opinion, worth every penny. They will clean both the barrel and the cylinder chambers. Buy one kit and it will do 9mm, 38 Special and 357 Magnum. Buy one kit and it will do the 45acp, 44 Special and 44 Magnum.

516-100-045WB Lead Remover Kit, .45 (will do both 45 acp and 44 mag)
Lead Remover Kit, .45 : BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Brownells

516-150-038WB Caliber Adapter Kit, 9mm/.38
Caliber Adapter Kit, 9mm/.38 : BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Brownells
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  #41  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:14 PM
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Buy this kit from harborfreight. Great for cleaning cylinder chambers

Search results for: '69020'
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:58 PM
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A copper 'Choar boy for cleaning pots, wrapped around a jag will clean them up good
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  #43  
Old 08-27-2018, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyabear View Post
A copper 'Choar boy for cleaning pots, wrapped around a jag will clean them up good
+1^^^^

No drama takes less than a minute to clean the cylinder holes with the choreboy/old brush/piece of cleaning rod/drill.

The ring will build up faster when you use rock hard bullets (24bhn) like the op with light loads. Couple that with the hard lube and bevel base.
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Old 08-27-2018, 06:25 AM
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Default One range session.....

I used to shoot .38s first and .357s second. If I shoot about 20-30 rounds I can't get the ..357s in. Now I only reaload the specials in .357 cases. I was adverse to taking a brush to the range with me.

And some powder/bullet combinations are pretty dirty. If I were to shoot jacketed .38s with clean powder I'm sure I could go longer without cleaning. But all of my loads are dirty, especially with lube in groove lead.
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Old 08-27-2018, 01:59 PM
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Get to your nearest Ace Hardware and buy some "Chore Boy" copper scouring pads. Unroll one of the pads a little (2" or so) cut it off and wrap it around a brass bore brush. Work that brush in the cylinder chambers, you should easily remove the fouling/carbon/lead residue. I have an old aluminum cleaning rod that I cut the handle off of, and I chuck it in an electric drill to clean the chambers. Run for about 20 sec on medium speed in each cylinder chamber and you should be good to go. I use Kroil as a lube, but CLP, or even motor oil will work.

Don't get discouraged, this technique is proven, safe, and it just plain works!

Lou
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou_NC View Post
Get to your nearest Ace Hardware and buy some "Chore Boy" copper scouring pads. Unroll one of the pads a little (2" or so) cut it off and wrap it around a brass bore brush. Work that brush in the cylinder chambers, you should easily remove the fouling/carbon/lead residue. I have an old aluminum cleaning rod that I cut the handle off of, and I chuck it in an electric drill to clean the chambers. Run for about 20 sec on medium speed in each cylinder chamber and you should be good to go. I use Kroil as a lube, but CLP, or even motor oil will work.

Don't get discouraged, this technique is proven, safe, and it just plain works!

Lou
Thanks a bunch.
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