I think I remember a thread about loading your own shot shells using gas checks a while back, but can't find it. I friend gave me some .357 aluminum gas checks today that came from a company that sold do it yourself snake shot. He thinks the recommended load was somewhere around 1.5gr of Unique but wasn't sure. Anyone here ever loaded a diy snake shot shell?

My speer manual #13 lists 5.5 grains of unique, velocity of 1111 from a 6" barrel using # 9 shot and the speer shot capsules. I use the capsules and #8 shot

I trimmed 460 cases to1.5"and "sized" with a 44-40 die until they went all the way in a 45 Colt chamber. Primed with WLP (large Pistol) primer 6.7 grains of WW231, a card from Milk Carton or cork went over the powder. 1/2 ounce #7 1/2 shot, another card and seal/ The sealer could be many things. Wax and Elmer's glue do not work long term! I ended up using clear gutter seam sealer (in the squeeze tube*) from Lowe's. Let cure 3 weeks.** Out of 5 1/2" Ruger Vaquero, at 12 feet a 12 inch pattern and about 750fps. Rips Copperheads to spreads!

* the caulking tube variety comes out far to quickly for the tiny quantity you need. I smoothed the sealer with a pop-sickle stick to fill voids and keep from running down the case wall.

** The cure time is important, I had a brass cased 12 gauge load, that only sat for one week before I shot a Vintage Sporting Clays match, It took about one hour per barrel to clean the gummy stuff from the barrel! When cured properly cleanup is not a big deal.

Ivan

I have 37 of the 357 Maximum brass, but haven't worked out the specifics yet!

I'm also using Speer shot capsules. They are not expensive, easy to load and they work well. As a bonus, they supply load data on the side of the box.

Additional tips, I dont load shotgun shells so I have no need for large bags of shot. A 25lb bag will run you about $50 plus shipping. For loading the 38/357 shotshells I bought the least expensive box of 12ga shells I could find. They were 1.125 once shells so when I took them apart I had 28oz of #9 shot. That has been enough shot to load many 38 shotshells with plenty still left for more. (for only $4 lol)

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If you think lead shot is expensive, try Steel Shot! I used 2 duck rounds for a total of 4 ounces of #2 steel shot to have steel balls as agitators in my thermos cleaning. Works well and the plus is, it's non-poisonous too! It was still cheaper than a pack of Daisy BB's.

Ivan

I cut my teeth learning reloading shotshells. I actually can make "stacked loads", circle punch cardboard for gas check and over shot cards. Its how I make my sub loads for my suppressed shotgun. I bet it would work for 357 shells as well. Look up how to load brass shot shells. Sone use dycron cement (spelling?) For over shot cards glue in, I use Elmer's glue, doesnt take much. Plus the shell is now water proof. Again, dont use too much!!

I have seen some loads with very little red dot, like 158 grains bullet and about 3 grns red dot. I think you could mimic this load with shot. Or find another load that doesnt use much space. The pressures are lower as theres bo "sealing" like a bullet or plasticwas, when compared to cardboard. It's more like he powder is pushing. And the powder doesnt care what's being pushed, as long as it's the said weight in the reload data. If you look at shotgun data, it's the WADA that change the pressures.

Shot shell reloading doesnt have near the pressure of 357. Or even 38 spl. Some 410 does (I have a load, using lil gun, single 000 buck, 2,300 or so fps), but this is a rarity. Plus if using cardboard (I use old coke boxes, cigarette packs, stack to thickness of alcan cards or Ballistic Products nitro cards), the cardboard doesn't seal like plastic wads or a bullet, again, lowering pressures. All the powder knows is the weight its pushing.

I also use cardboard or printing paper to make wad cups. If interested, I can post a seperate thread on my reloading using different materials and cutouts from hobby stores.

Post your results, or, if you want me to risk my fingers, lol, I'll do it. I've been interested in shotshell loads for the 357 for a while. Just havent had the time, and I have shotguns, lol. Have an M6 Springfield scout that I used last year. Light and versatile for small game. 410 ducks with dove though!!! This year I'm going back to my suppressed shotty. Its a single shot, but I'm weighting for ATF to ok my form 1 on my pump shotgun suppressed. Holds 3+1, cant wait!!! Looks straight out of mad max, lol

In .38 special, I use 5 grains Unique, then seat a gas check cup up over the powder, fill with #8 shot, leaving room for another gas check. Seat another gas check, cup up, and crimp with a medium to heavy roll crimp. Use at your on risk, these work for me. Found the recipe in a American Rifleman magazine years ago. They will get the largest rattler's attention.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

Remember that anything "shotgun", pattern size/ density is important. Shot size plays an important part and distance to target.

Larger size shot (smaller numbered shot) patterns tighter than smaller size shot (bigger numbers) at any given distance, Speed also plays a factor; more speed=bigger pattern. The commercial shot rounds use #12, #10 or #9 shot and have huge patterns at very close distance. I Like 7.5 out of my 45 Colt shot shells @ 750fps. For 410 Handguns, commercial 2.5 shells @ 1155 or 1200 fps are about 6 foot pattern at 15 feet with #9shot, But about 2 feet with #4's or #5's. If you load you own, and slow it down, then it will tighten into something useful below 950 to 1000 fps (these are 1/2 ounce loads). My only 410 hand gun was 2.5" I haven't played with 3" handgun

Ivan

Quite a bit of info and 'experimentation' here:

Shot Shell Loads For Pistols


When I did load some shot loads in pistols cases and some for the .500 x 3" Express rifle,,I always used plain cheap door & window caulking over the top wad (thin cardboard).
A dab on top and smeared around with my thumb pushed the caulk into the edge of the case and wad and formed a nice seal.
I never had to wait over a day or so for them to set before use.
Acrylic caulk IIRC (cheap stuff) in the smaller handy to use squeeze tube was the ticket.
It was like soft rubber when set, just like around your windows, and simply blew apart and out the bbl upon firing.
Never a mess in the bore from residue or 'goop'!

Never did hit much with the .500x3.