how much bullet movement is acceptable,I get .005 movement after 5shots no matter how much crimp I put on it

You have not mentioned the caliber, bullet type, or firearm in use.

The more powerful cartridges, especially when loaded with bullets having minimal (or no) crimping groove or cannelure, can be much more prone to bullet movement during recoil than less powerful cartridges loaded with bullets having positive crimping groove.

The ideal is no movement. In revolvers the problem manifests itself by bullets moving forward (out of the cartridge case) which can, if severe enough, cause the cylinder to bind. In semi-autos the problem is more commonly the bullets being forced deeper into the cartridge case during the feeding cycle, which can result in increased pressures when fired.

Type of crimp may also be an issue. A taper crimp provides less strength in gripping the bullet than a roll crimp.

With a little more information I'm sure some folks here can offer some suggestions.

.005" is nothing. Over crimping can actually loosen the case grip on the bullet.

I've recycled rounds 10 times in my Glock and seen up to .01 setback with both reloads and factory-fresh ammo.

Caliber? Firearm? Charge and projectile?

Please bear with me as I'm new at this. okay here we go- .44mag S&W 629 classic 6.5 bbl.hornady 225g FTX 19.0g enforcer 1280 fps

Only getting .005" bullet movement from the recoil of a 225 gr bullet loaded to over 1,200 fps is well within acceptable range...

thankyou,I guess I don't have problem then I'll keep up what I'm doing asI'm getting pretty good results

Most people can barely accurately measure 0.005" on a set of calipers. That is nothing.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

If you can't then you shouldn't be using them..

Here is a trick I use and would suggest when the subject is specifically "do I have enough crimp to combat bullet jump under recoil in a magnum revolver"

Assuming your revolver is a 6-shot (adjust if it is a 5 shot or 7 or 8 shot...) Load up your revolver and use a sharpie to mark the case head of just one of the rounds, shoot the other five and do not shoot the marked round. Eject all empties and your marked, unfired round. Reload 5 more and also your marked round.

Shoot those five but NOT your marked round and eject all empties and your single marked round.

Now look at it, measure it, and see how far it's attempted to jump crimp.

You can also repeat the test and continue to put it through the fire and fury of full recoil. In typical use, one of your rounds will be subjected to one cylinderful of battering and no more.
I'll agree... if you are ham-fisted with your calipers, you can easily see a variance like this, especially if the tip of your loaded rounds don't offer an easily repeatable FLAT surface from which to measure. Certainly, most presses, dies and normal operating procedures should allow for 0.005" tolerance. If you don't buy that... open a box of factory ammo and check them and report back.

I just opened a box of Federal Premium 9mm+P 124gr HST and measured ten rounds from a box that hasn't been opened since it left Anoka and it's showing me 1.101" to 1.107" and this is "buck a round" 9mm defense ammo, not the cheap Blazer Brass or worse, Winchester White Box.

A roll crimp can hold the bullet in place, a taper crimp can not, unless it is over applied & then then, too much taper crimp can buckle a case & you actually lose neck tension. Neck tension holds the bullet in place for semiauto work. The taper crimp just finishes off the loaded round.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Put 0.005" on the calipers and look at it, it is tiny, less than the thickness of some paper.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

Maybe so, but proper fitting of a bearing to a shaft for press fit, that might as well be a mile.

Last time I looked it fell between .004 and .006".

Just noting that many calipers are not high end. Many are not digital, so getting 0.001-0.003" accuracy can be challenging for many & it is still not worth concern in reloading.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

You might want to check the diameter of the expander ball on your sizing die. If it's a tiny bit too big for the bullets you're using, having a gorilla crimp your loads will still not do the trick.

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Pisgah

True, but surely you'll agree that there are some pretty significant differences between a round of ammo meant for a single use, and a press fit bearing meant for years of repeated use.

Well, if you guys want to bring up totally unrelated "facts" about measurements, I got one. I was a machinist making fasteners for the Air Force that had one tolerance of .0005". The parts had to be inspected in a temperature controlled room (one shipment went to Alaska and due to the cold ambient temp all the parts were under size.). What does this have to do with a crimp hold in a bullet in place under recoil? About as much as a bearing/shaft press fit...

Agreed. I started noticing an issue loading Nosler's 240gr JHP (.4290") in my older 44 Mag cases. (.4300" bullets were fine.) Not enough bullet-case tension using my Lee sizing die (.449"), even with little to no flare. Bought a new set of Hornady Custom Grade dies & it's sizing die (.447") made all the different on the Noslers. Nice & snug.

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Waiting for the break of day

I'll give you a definite "+1" when it comes to Nosler pistol bullets! Great bullets but ALWAYS on the slender side. I didn't and do not search for a different die when working with Nosler jacketed pistol bullets, but I have found that being particular with my choice of brass gets them where they need to be.

Your solution sounds like a fine one.