@OP,

I had a similar issue loading 45ACP last winter.

Are you sure that the entire case was fully sized? It sounds like the last 1/8" before the rim is bulged ever so slightly so the rounds aren't dropping into the chambers. It sounds like you may have short stroked the ram while resizing, or possibly the sizing die wasn't fully seated against the shell holder.

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Judge control not gun control!

What about a 40/10mm taper crimp die? I have no idea but I might give it a try if I had one handy and the rounds he has. I think his were light loads, which is good. Maybe later I'll see how far a loaded 44 will go up into one.

Edit
**********- Not even close! At least not with my RCBS taper crimp die.-**********

I sort my brass by brand and by how many loadings it's seen, mostly. That helps to assure consistent case length per batch. I'm sure there could be a casing that decides to be a trouble maker and stretch inconsistently, but no so I've noticed. The exception might be for some of my well used Midway brass that is used mainly for plinkers. How many loadings have the Midway casings seen? A bunch. However, I was rummaging in my storage closet and found what must be a bag of at least 250 brand new Midway brand casings. You know, I wonder who made them? Starline maybe?

Copying a factory crimp can sorta work if you're using like kind bullets and the case length is the same. Probably works better with 9mm and etc.

Thanks Paul

Thank you I was kinda hoping "they" would come to that observation.
and with that I am out of here. If the OP would just post some pictures of the loaded rounds



adjust your dies, your crimp is messed up.


Have a nice weekend.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Rule3, You quoted my reply but I'm not entirely understanding your answer. When I said that I had issues loading bullets with a wide front driving band in my M66 I meant reloads with those bullets. Not just dropping in a bullet. Is that what you thought, that I was just dropping in bullets. Please explain.

It is a "clue" or a mind exercise on the shape of chambers. as Paul indicated.


If the OP doesn't want to post pictures of the loaded round, so be it, I am done here. This thread is just to convoluted anymore.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I think at least one person requested that I put some pictures of the loaded rounds that have been in question here. So, here you go. I'm less of a photographer than I am a reloader so it is what it is. Especially for Rule3. Oh, please ignore the black ball and the other stuff in the pics. Just some of the wife's toys.

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	P_20180901_102240_LL.jpg (54.2 KB, 49 views)

You need to move the camera a little left or right to get the auto focus to pick up the intended subject, or a solid background right up against the rounds..

Other than that the pegboard looks in pretty good shape..

To your second point, we keep talking about the crimp. When crimping it takes very little interference to get a proper crimp. Back off the die until it does nothing then move it downward and just barely bump the shoulder.

None of my wife's toys look like that.

Thanks so much for your input!

Although the loaded rounds in the pics are a bit out of focus (wife's toy looks fine), the brass just below the crimp appears to be bulged from an out of adjustment crimp die - which would TOTALLY explain your reload chambering difficulty.

Getting a bulged brass (from over crimp, or off center seated bullet) cartridge to chamber HALF WAY, is one thing. Getting it to chamber completely (consistently), is something else again. Bulged or not bulged, should be EASY for you to determine - with either a straight edge, or caliper.

Setting crimp die adjustment on a Dillon 550, is not rocket science. The trick is, to crimp enough - without overdoing a good thing. For target level, cast bullet loads, very little crimp is required.

Suggest you back off your crimp adjustment completely, then on a sized piece of brass (average length), screw it down until it just barely touches. Then on a bullet seated cartridge, adjust the dies down 1/8 turn at a time, until the top edge of the brass is only LIGHTLY turned into the bullet crimp groove. Repeat as required, but only the minimum amount necessary, to keep the bullet from moving under recoil, & provide consistent ignition.

Uniform sized brass length - & brass neck thickness, makes for a uniformly crimped batch of loaded rounds. This is why I don't load mixed headstamp batches of brass, & typically trim revolver brass once, after 2 - 3 firings.

If you don't want to take the time to trim your sized brass, at least measure a batch sampling, & set your crimp on a piece that is of average length. Although uniformly applied crimps are one factor in the accuracy formula, .004" - .006", difference in sized case OAL, won't make that much of a difference, as long as you pick an average OAL for initial setup.

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Regards - GCF

Thanks for taking the time to help. Several people feel that my problem lies in the amount of crimp that I'm using. Truthfully, I think I've been using too much crimp on every caliber that I reload for although this is my first venture in the .44 area. Thinking about ordering some new Starline brass and getting a fresh start in this caliber. Somebody suggested that I might be able to salvage the rounds I've already got loaded by getting one of the Lee factory crimp dies without having to pull them all. Thanks again for your help. When I meet with success ill post my results.

Here is another query into your dilemma. It might be in your threads somewhere but to be honest I am not gonna read the whole thing,


What brand of dies are you using?? (just to know how to set them up) Not a brand preference.

What caliber are they. 44 Special or 44 Magnum?If they are Lee dies, the 44 special dies will load 44 Magnum BUT 44 Magnum will not load 44 Special.

Are you seating and crimping with the same die at the same time?? Most dies when set to just the setting depth and then adjusted to crimp will push the bullet a fraction more (deeper) into the case which results in the crimp "bulge"
If the same dies then set the seat depth a fraction higher, then set crimp and it will be the correct OAL

It is usually better(more convenient and more control) to use a separate crimping die

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Still Running Against the Wind

All of my dies are Dillon. Everything I own, relating to reloading, has Dillon on it. I ordered the conversion kit for .44Magnum. Bullet seating and crimping are done separately. Crimping is done at the last station, Station 4.

I think my problem is (and the majority of others do also) my overcrowding the round. Hopefully, today will solve the mystery. I'm out of empty .44Mag brass so I'm going to have to pull a few rounds to experiment with. Always fun, fun, fun.

Thanks for your continued interest.