I don't care what they say, regardless of brands.(RCBS, Hornady, Dillon)

The hex Head lock rings are a PITA and require a bunch of "screwing" around for no reason. Especially RCBS with their brass "ones" They strip and their solution is to send you a bag of new ones and some lead bird shot as a "buffer".
Maybe the hex rings will hold up to massive industrial use but I'll take the easy Lee Rubber O rings any day.!


Flame Away








OK, I feel better now!

__________________
Still Running Against the Wind

Agree. I found that the RCBS hex rings don’t seem to hold a lock position on the die. I’ve replaced just about all my LEE and RCBS lock rings with Hornady split rings. I find they work much better as securing the die and are easier to adjust. While the LEE O-ring seems to work, I’ve replaced them as well, just for consistency.
My experience anyway.

__________________
"Your other right........."

Yes they are, when they finally strip out.

Did it on my Mec shotgun loader and a die for my much used 38 spl.

Just thankful that the threads are "Standard thread" and I could go to
Home Depot and pick up two slot heads to fix the problems.

Snug is good...........

I have some of each. I don't adjust my dies enough that I'm particularly disturbed by any of them. Working loose hasn't been a problem.

I change all my rings to the Hornady style for my single stage and the Lee rings for my turret press. Works well for me.

__________________
Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

I'm cheap, I use what comes in the box. I change 2 sets of dies out on my two Dillons maybe every 3 months. I accept it as part of the setup process. But those little #6 or #8 Brass set screws are a pain. They get loosened once and tossed in the trash. Fastenal sells 50 to a bag. I have enough for me, Rule3, Ivan, and Scooter123

__________________
S&WHF 366

Locktite and extra die plates so dies are seldom unscrewed......9mm haven't moved in 14 yrs. same bullet, same load. Want to load another caliber, change entire die plate . its only money.....

__________________
Science plus Art

I have no real problems with them set them and done.

one of the really good things Hornady makes is the split rings. Personally I think the RCBS and Lee rings both suck

Hornady replacements +1.

I make index marks on the dies, rings, and top of the press with a permanent marker.
Snug things down with my fingers. Rarely use a tool on them.

Never had a problem with them. I lock em down and leave em be.
Don't like the Lee rings, I remove the O ring, turn them upside down and lock em down.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

Go to a hardware store & get a few steel hex heads, a birdshot #8 shot of lead will hold the lock ring in place if you don't change settings much. The Hornadys cost more but work fine for me. NO BIG THING.

Gee, I should have given you all my Lee lock rings when I threw them away and replaced them with Hornady rings. They my only gripe about Lee dies.

I prefer Lee's locking rings the best too. Swapped them out with all the other brands I have. Hate the metal-metal contact.

I take their O-ring idea a step further. On my Lyman expander dies, that have a metal nut to tighten the center adjustment, I add an O-ring I picked up at the hardware store (Lowes) to install between the metal nut & the die's body (similar to what Hornady does on their seating die adjustor).

This allows you to moderately tighten the nut by hand but still easily turn the adjuster by hand. And it won't come loose either.

Not too tight; not too loose.

.

Add a dash of #11 O-ring (3/4"OD x 9/16"ID x 3/32") to smooth out the turns.
.


.

__________________
Waiting for the break of day

I installed Hornady Lock n Load conversion in my Rock Chucker and have the LnL bushings on all my die sets now. Set and forget

Heck I would take them ALL. If anyone has some please PM me.


Guess I could take the ones off my Lee dies, but then they would be naked.

__________________
Still Running Against the Wind

Excellent idea. Why didn't I think of that?

Aim High Air Force.
MAC 69-73

BLUEDOT37, I just got my order of nine Lee die lock rings to replace the lock rings on my other make dies.

The rubber o-ring on the Lee lock rings allows the die to float and self center in the press. This is the same principle as the Forster Co-Ax press and letting the dies "float" and self center. Meaning more concentric cases and ammunition. And as stated above all you need to do is make index marks on the die and lock ring.

When setting up the die you should size a case to center the die in the presses threads and then lock the lock ring down. If you do not do it this way the slop in the threads can allow the die to tilt in the sloppy threads.

Now ask yourself why Lee made the lock rings the way they are with a rubber o-ring.

O-Rings on Dies May Reduce Run-Out
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...educe-run-out/



I also prefer Forster full length benchrest dies with their high mounted floating expanders. The case neck is held and center in the neck of the die when the expander enters the case neck. And this greatly reduces neck runout.



Bottom line the rubber o-ring in the Lee lock rings allows the die to float and are too cheap to buy a Forster Co Ax press like me.

I may not have a popular opinion on reloading die lock rings and set screws, but as a lifelong machinist/mechanic I believe most reloaders tighten their lock rings and set screws waaaay too tight. I have only purchased used dies twice. Both times the nice RCBS dies had to have the die body threads repaired, and all set screws replaced. The body threads were distorted and had to be filed and/or chased before a nut would thread on and turn the whole length of the body. All the set screws had the allen socket stripped and the body threads were gouged out where the set screws were over tightened against the threads. Lock rings just need to be snug and not wrenched down tight and set screws also just snug. When I got my Co-Ax I switched to all Forster and/or Sinclair lock rings (clamp style). On the "old" rings I replaced all set screws with nylon tipped allen socket steel screws.

From my standpoint, I'd say Lee lock rings were designed with an O-ring as a "locking" devise. The ring is compressed and exerts a bit of upwards pressure on the nut "jamming" the threads against the die threads, keeping the nut from turning.

I bought a box of different size o-rings at Harbor freight. I put them under all the locking collars, top and bottom. Never need a wrench to remove anything and they never comes loose accidentally.

They did it to annoy me.

__________________
Just Say No - To Social Media

Your the type person who would bitch if they hung you with a new rope.

FIFY

Metal lock ring to press gives a consistent setting every time the die is inserted, whereas an o-ring can produce dimensional errors, depending on the torque applied. It may or may not affect resizing.

Brownells sells the Forster type lock rings. They work real well.

Having the lock rings that bite into the die threads is bogus. The tangential set screws that tightens the lock ring are much better IMHO. I change types of bullets a lot, so I'm always messing with the dies. I'm getting to where I'm tired of experimenting and want to settle on standard loads.

__________________
"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Back when I got into the reloading game, I purchased an RCBS outfit. I also bought RCBS and Hornady dies. I quickly realized the RCBS Hex head lock rings were pure junk compared to the Hornady split rings. I'm now using the Hornady type on all my dies.

IMO; just because a person can reload, doesn't mean they have any mechanical aptitude. O-rings placed under nuts is an old trick for "locking" the nut in place where gorilla tight isn't wanted/needed, or if some "float" is wanted. While it may sound silly, I have had 32 hours class room training on threads, bolts and nuts when I worked for the City of LA. (Strip/break a head bolt on a V-16 generator engine and you're in big trouble!). It's much more complicated/involved than "righty tighty, lefty loosey" and from what I've experienced there are not many that know about them, other than Aerospace Engineers...

Hex nut, steel set screw, soft lead # 7 1/2 or #8 shot pellet. No thread distortion, no ruined set screws, no change in die adjustment-until you back off the set screw and jiggle the nut to free the shot pellet.

Thats why they make gauges, you forgot to read the T.O. on brass springback



With humor aside I also use Redding competition shell holders. And my dies make hard contact with these shell holders with press cam over.

And do not forget how the dies and case float in a Forster Co-Ax Press.

And if you put index marks on the press, lock ring and die the only variations you will have is caused by brass spring back.

It's only ammo. Hit the target -- pat yourself on the back. Missed -- that's why you brought more than one bullet, try again and do it right.

__________________
S&WHF 366

But have you been on TV and stayed at a Holiday Inn Express??

__________________
Still Running Against the Wind

Anyone wanting to get rid of a bunch of RCBS lock rings I will be happy to pay postage and package fees.

Stu

Never had a problem with any of em...

Ok, in the interest of accuracy, what torque value do you use for the standard lock rings versus the torque value for the set screw type lock ring? Is it better to use a thin wall extra deep socket or a crows foot wrench on the torque wrench?

__________________
S&WHF 366

Would that be in lb-ft or N-m??

__________________
Still Running Against the Wind

After trying several differing types, I set the die each time and tighten lock ring down. When done, I loosen it up and remove the die. This does not take very long. Especially when using same rifle die on differing makes of brass, or same caliber brass from different rifle.