Hi guys,

Title sounded redundant, haha, but I was wondering if the guys that use moon clips fast have a certain bullet profile or any tricks to reloading faster. This would be for a 357 mag.

Obviously the 38 spl would be a better choice because of OAL. I currently cast the Lee Tumble Lube RN and SWC, 158 grain bullets, they do OK, but, I have factory ammo, Federal, that just drops right in my gun, and would like to be able to load a round that does this. Is it crimp? Bullet shape? All above? Some where I think I recall a 150 grain RN was good, a Lee 358-150? Cant seem to remember, or know why.

My revolver is chamfered, I think from the factory, it's a TRR8.

Thanks for any help on this! I dont do competitive shooting. Although would like to, but not until I get some dry practice in.

Nothing feeds smoother in a revo reload than RN profile, speed loader or moon clip. A TC is next up & swc the wc dead last. Your Lee RN TL may have too much shoulder for best feeding. Beveling the cyl chambers helps a lot.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

A round nosed bullet profile will always work best. That said, if your cast bullets aren't dropping right in like the factory round nosed bullets do, you have a problem with your reloads. They should drop in without an issue. Recheck your reloaded ammo against a factory round, your measurements should be no different. The most common problems are improperly sized cases and oversized cast bullets. Hope this helps.

Beyond bullet profile (where RN is best), case brand can have allot to do with it. Namely, some brand cases fit some brand/thickness moonclips better. For the longer, rimmed cases to have freedom they need to allign with the chamber, they should fit in the clip with a little bit of freeplay. ( I like to be able to spin each round in the clip and to have at least so,e level of wobble. A case or twoin the clip that fit too tight will drag and cause for a SLOW reload.

You might start ith using only federal cases and your current moonclips since you say those dropped right in.

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Dave

Agreed to all of the above messages but for me the biggest feature I find when fast reloading my revolvers is to not man handle the moonclips grab them from the top only so not to squeeze the bullets together.

I'd say if your cast round nose loads are not dropping into the cylinder as well as factory round nose ammo, it is either your cases are bulging during bullet seating or the front driving band of the bullet is exposed and is catching the edges of the cylinder.

Another issue that may come into play with some revolvers using reloaded ammo is the cartridge case at the web area (just forward of the rim). This area will be swelled (expanded) in firing, and most resizing dies will not resize this area due to lack of clearance with the rim in the shell holder of the press (also, over multiple reloadings brass in that area can thicken from repeated working in the resizing die). This can be easily seen on reloaded cartridges, and easily measured by those whose eyesight may not detect the swelled portion.

Not unusual for reloaded revolver cartridges to fail to drop fully into the chambers because of swelled case heads/webs, requiring a little hand pressure to seat fully. With moon clips and multiple rounds this could be more of a problem (5, 6, 7, or 8 points of resistance to overcome).

Just one of the reasons why I have always relied on good factory ammo for defensive use, limiting reloads to range and practice use.

Thanks for the input guys!!

Think think it's a combo of all things, really, I tightened up my sizing to .357, will have to see how this works with obturation. But already the do slip in easier, not perfect, but getting there.

But i also think it's my bullet molds. The TL design bullers do leave a shoulder in the bullet, then leaves the brass nowhere to be crimped into, so you kind of end up with 2 steps to get past. So I'm gonna try a different bullet mold, see how that works.

I bought these molds when I first got into reloading, and thought I could only use the TL design molds for TL. I've since realized that you can TL just about any bullet. I tumble lube a Saeco 352 bullet for my Ruger 77/357, no problem.

Any suggestions on molds? I was looking at the Saeco 391 or 398.

Do you use a seperate crimp die?

Most Lee revolver molds are designed for their factory crimp dies. Also check your bullet sizing. My Lee 6 cavity 200gn .452 mold drops anywhere from .452 to.456 bullets. (I long ago stopped casting .357 and 9mm).

And yes, use a decent factory round to set the bullet seating and crimp dies for your press. I use the same Lee turrets in both a turret and Pro 1000 presses and have to adjust the dies if swapping between presses due to the different heights in the two shell plates.

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View from down under

As mentioned, the RN design will give you less hang ups plus...

if you load the bullet where the cylinder/body/shoulder of the bullet
is even with the end of the case, it will up your odds of a smother
loading, even more.

Don't forget to get a light crimp, that will also help the case to feed
into the cylinder.

I have been using Lee molds/bullets with various reloading dies for 25+ years, and am/was unaware of a "designed in" specific bullet crimp dies. For my Lee cast handgun bullets (among others) I use "stock" roll crimp dies from Herter's, RCBS, Pacific and Lee. I also use Redding Profile Crimp dies for 357 and 44 Magnum and Lee collet crimp dies for my 44 Magnums. Of course my semi-auto rounds use a taper crimp die to de-flare the cases...

I am not a fan of Lee FCDs for handgun cartridges...

Lee FCD is for fixing problems with improperly loaded ammo

If you are looking at some fast reloads on your TRR8 and power factor isn't an issue, you might check out getting a supply of 38 Short Colt or 38 Long Colt brass to use instead of 38 Special. 38 Short Colt is basically the parent case to the 38 Special except it's much shorter. The OAL of the case is .765 inch as compared to 1.155 inch of the 38 Special. Starline sells 38 Short Colt brass, BTW.

Just a thought to throw at you.

I have shot a lot of clipped rounds in my TRR8.
Quickly gave up on 357 bases. Too wobbly for fast reloads.
Tried some 38 Short Colt, but it's a bit tricky avoiding excess pressure.
Reading in another forum, I discovered 38 Mid. Special cases trimmed to .900", same as Super 38.
Easy to load with Bayou 160 grain round nose.
Next issue is moon thickness. All of them are much thinner than the .45 Auto ones.
Trick is to use the thickest ones (.025") available.
Use these with brass that has the closest groove for minimum wobble. I use R-P and FC for these cut downs.
This was a test batch. Ignore the scratched coating, but you can get the idea.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

I learned to dislike semi-wadcutters because the tiny wad cutter lip would always snag up on the chamber edge loading DA & SA revolvers.
It’s only RNFP bullets for me now.

Seriously? Trying to muck up someone else's thread by starting THAT argument AGAIN? Give it a rest...