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  #1  
Old 06-18-2019, 09:58 PM
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Default Squib load/Bullet in the bore

What's the preferred method to remove a stuck bullet in the bore, results of a squib load? Especially in a Revolver. Thanks
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:10 PM
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Drive it out with either a brass rod or wooden dowel rod. A liberal application of penetrating oil will help.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:39 PM
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Remove the cylinder before to try to drive that thing out I wrecked a 642 so I know now...good luck
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:49 PM
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Make SURE if you use a wood dowel that it is as close to bore diameter as possible. It is not unheard of for a dowel to split and then have the two parts slide past one another forming a wedge.
Then you'll have an even worse obstruction.

If the squib is caught in the forcing cone, you will not be able to remove the cylinder or unload the gun.
Fortunately, such a squib will often be easiest to remove, so long as the base of the bullet does not get jammed re-entering the case mouth.

Jim

Last edited by 6string; 06-20-2019 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:54 PM
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SMSgt got it right. Penetrating oil down the bore, allow it to sit for a few hours to work its way around the obstruction, then a brass rod (or aluminum, or wooden dowel) and a mallet to tap the stuck bullet free of the bore. It helps to have a secure bench vice with jaws padded by heavy leather (or sheet lead) to secure the frame of the revolver while doing the removal.

This happens more often than some may think. In my experience it is almost always the result of a squib load (failure to detonate the powder, but primer force drives the bullet into the barrel). Unless excessive force or too much stupid is applied it will not usually result in any permanent damage.
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:02 PM
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Oil the back of the barrel before driving it back toward the forcing cone. It is much easier that way!
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:40 AM
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Medium light taps work better than big blows from a 5 pound hammer .
Be careful or you will get to read the sticky " how to remove a broken dowel rod " . Lube the bore well to help the bullet move out . clamp the barrel upright and flood the bullet with penetrating oil , let stand overnight then go for the removal...good luck!
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired in 2001 View Post
Remove the cylinder before to try to drive that thing out I wrecked a 642 so I know now...good luck
Absolutely ! I also ruined a J frame a few years back because I didn't remove the cylinder prior to driving out a squib. So be sure to remove the cylinder, then use a wood dowel and tap the bullet out of the bore.
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:40 AM
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Thanks for all the replies. the "stuck in barrel" came up in another thread, but with no measures to correct. I do reload, and always wondered the correct procedure. Many thanks again R
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Marylander View Post
Thanks for all the replies. the "stuck in barrel" came up in another thread, but with no measures to correct. I do reload, and always wondered the correct procedure. Many thanks again R
In case you're one of those people who have been wondering if you should use your reloads for SD, you now have your answer.
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:12 PM
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Brass or aluminum rod. A wooden dowel can break or splinter and tightly jam in the barrel. BTDT 1970
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by gen3guy View Post
In case you're one of those people who have been wondering if you should use your reloads for SD, you now have your answer.
For MY sd loads I use my powder trickle to ensure precise weights. No chance of a squib because of low powder charge.

Move along..
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:55 PM
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Yes, my only squib was one my reloads in 41 Magnum.
I have made range rods out of brass rods and a wooden dowel for a handle.
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Old 06-19-2019, 12:55 PM
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All good advice here except for the wooden dowel. Eventually it will split and worsen the obstruction. Stick with brass IMO.
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikld View Post
Brass or aluminum rod. A wooden dowel can break or splinter and tightly jam in the barrel. BTDT 1970
YES THEY WILL SPLINTER! Ask me how I figured that out. Make sure it is a very hardwood dowel if it's all you have. After my fiasco with a splintered dowel rod (was a long time ago and in a rifle, while trying to slug the barrel), I went out and bought 2-3 sizes of brass rod, in case it ever happened again. (it hasn't)

Hopefully it's far enough in that you can remove the cylinder and not so far to give you any grief.
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:28 PM
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I used a wooden dowel very close to the same diameter of the barrel when I did it in a 1911. I was afraid of scratching the inside of the barrel.

I sprayed it heavily with a liquid wrench type oil and sat the barrel on its end so the oil could seep down the barrel and I left it alone for an hour or so even though I was anxious as hell to get at it.

After about an hour I gave it another little spray and then put the barrel up on a piece leather on a small anvil I have so that the ramp wasnt on the anvil and from the front I used the dowel and it came out after about 3 whacks.

I hadnt loaded light .. I didnt have any charge at all in the case. The primer was enough to get that bullet stuck in there but good. At the time I was using an old cranky progressive and I wasnt ready for it.

Now I use a single stage and after I charge all my cases I take a small cheap flashlight and just give the cases a once over while they are in the trays. Just a little insurance. A double drop or no drop will show immediately!
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Old 06-19-2019, 02:25 PM
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SD loads are a totally different issue; another lengthy, multi opinion, "internet wisdom" thread where no consensus is ever reached, and if one is serious about the question he is often more confused after reading...

Please keep posts somewhat close the the OP's issue...
Why Is It Taught Not To Use Reloads For Self Defense?
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Old 06-19-2019, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
Medium light taps work better than big blows from a 5 pound hammer .
Be careful or you will get to read the sticky " how to remove a broken dowel rod " . Lube the bore well to help the bullet move out . clamp the barrel upright and flood the bullet with penetrating oil , let stand overnight then go for the removal...good luck!
Gary
I have slugged a lot of barrels and find that light blows with a very heavy hammer [4 lbs is better than 2 lbs, either better than a 12 oz] work the best. If a brass case will fit down the bore and over your dowel use it on the end of the rod.
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:58 PM
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I have used a large Phillips head screwdriver. Before you say no no no think about it. The shaft of the screwdriver is almost as wide as the barrel. The only part of the screwdriver that endangers the barrel is the tip that is touching the bullet you are trying to dislodge. It can't go sideways so the tip is always touching the bullet and nothing else.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:10 PM
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I once dropped some empty .22 cases down the barrel of a .357 that had a squib. When the last .22 case protruded, I pushed that against a post until that case was down flush with the muzzle. Then put in another .22 case and pushed that down flush, and so on. It only took a minute until the stuck bullet was pushed out the back of the barrel.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:26 PM
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Forget wooden dowels all together. A brass rod wont hurt the bore & wont split.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigggbbruce View Post
For MY sd loads I use my powder trickle to ensure precise weights. No chance of a squib because of low powder charge.

Move along..
Funny, I am sure everyone reloading has said something like this. Load enough ammo, ss or progressive, you will likely get a squib.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:04 PM
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Once the bullet has been removed, inspect the barrel. Many times, maybe all the time, the squib will ring the barrel. Usually, this does no harm, but I would not go so far as to say it is totally harmless.
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:12 AM
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Once the bullet has been removed, inspect the barrel. Many times, maybe all the time, the squib will ring the barrel. Usually, this does no harm, but I would not go so far as to say it is totally harmless.
How does a single bullet stuck in the barrel, ring the barrel? If a second round is fired, the barrel will be rung, but not just one bullet.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:01 AM
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Yes, you have to fire that SECOND round to bulge/ring the barrel.
Most squibs are caused by the reloader NOT inspecting the powder height of EVERY charged case before seating a bullet. If you can't inspect every case, use an RCBS Lock-Out die.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjwils View Post
I once dropped some empty .22 cases down the barrel of a .357 that had a squib. When the last .22 case protruded, I pushed that against a post until that case was down flush with the muzzle. Then put in another .22 case and pushed that down flush, and so on. It only took a minute until the stuck bullet was pushed out the back of the barrel.
If I would have done that ... I would have gotten a barrel full of empty 22 cases stuck in the bore !
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightowl View Post
Once the bullet has been removed, inspect the barrel. Many times, maybe all the time, the squib will ring the barrel. Usually, this does no harm, but I would not go so far as to say it is totally harmless.
Yeah doesnt work that way. A squib is a ultra low pressure event. It does zero damage to the bore unless you fire another full power round behind it.
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Old 06-20-2019, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag22 View Post
I have used a large Phillips head screwdriver. Before you say no no no think about it. The shaft of the screwdriver is almost as wide as the barrel. The only part of the screwdriver that endangers the barrel is the tip that is touching the bullet you are trying to dislodge. It can't go sideways so the tip is always touching the bullet and nothing else.
Hmmm. There are phillips screwdrivers with shanks from 3/32" up to 7/16", and depending on caliber of the barrel, a decent fit may be OK. A sharp point, like a phillips point, will drive into a lead bullet, expanding it and making the fit much tighter. I use a heavy hammer/mallet and the heavy "push" against a lodged bullet is better than a "tap, tap, tap", which can swage a bullet. I never put anything in a firearm barrel that is harder than brass. Not being critical of your methods, just relating some info from 50+ years as a machinist/mechanic...
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:23 PM
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I lucked out with this one. Easy to remove with pliers. Still have it sitting on a window sill.



This one was tougher. I tapped it in with a brass hammer, got it further with a brass punch, then packed in a shotgun patch and got it the rest of the way with an M16 cleaning rod. The patch was there to keep the end from sliding off the nose of the bullet and wedging against the barrel. Even though the steel of a cleaning rod is pretty mild, it can't be good for the bore.

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Old 06-20-2019, 01:31 PM
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I have Alumilum and brass rods for squibs. I have never had much trouble getting bullets out of hand guns. If you use proper rod to begin with. I've had them brought it after owners used spike nails or whatever was handy that was smaller than bore. Usually steel and all it does is expand the bullet and make it harder to get out. I had a 357 brought in that they had bullet stuck between cylinder and cone. A SA import. The cylinder gap was enought that I sawed through the bullet with a jewlers saw and was able to get cylinder out. Worst sqibs are in rifles. I've had to take a brass rod and drill it to accept a 1/8 drill and make a pilot bushing to drill through
bullet from chamber. Then did same thing from Muzzel which was only about 6" from bullet. Used a series of bigger bits up to 1/4 . This was in a Rem 721 in 270win. They stuck a spitzer SP bullet and tried to tap it out from Muzzel with a steel cleaning rod. Turned out after all that and a squirt of PB Blaster it came out with a couple light taps. I have rig for ML sqibs.
It's stainless and turn pilot bit by hand to drill through bullet. Have screw end on shaft with nut welded on the end and a piece of 2" bar stock drilled
for a slap hammer. Use rachet to run screw into ball and then slap hammer it out. 3/8ths works in 45 & 50 cals. I only do this after I attempt to work some powder in and shoot it out.
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:42 PM
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Brownell's sells brass squib rods in various sizes that are close fits in the bore. I carry both a 44 and a 35 caliber in my range bag. I have only used them a couple of times in over 25 years, but they were worth the money them.
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Old 06-20-2019, 02:15 PM
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I wonder if anyone has used a firecracker in an empty case in the cylinder to remove? I have brass rods and hickory rods and aluminum rods and never had to do more. I have had about 4 squibs since the 1970s and the hardest to remove was a plated hbwc because of a low powder charge. Seems like a firecracker would be safe enough. Just do it and don't tell anyone.
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkcavalier View Post
I lucked out with this one. Easy to remove with pliers. Still have it sitting on a window sill.



This one was tougher. I tapped it in with a brass hammer, got it further with a brass punch, then packed in a shotgun patch and got it the rest of the way with an M16 cleaning rod. The patch was there to keep the end from sliding off the nose of the bullet and wedging against the barrel. Even though the steel of a cleaning rod is pretty mild, it can't be good for the bore.

Twice? You got 2 squibs? Hopefully it wasn't from the same batch! In 30+ years I've only had one...
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mikld View Post
Twice? You got 2 squibs? Hopefully it wasn't from the same batch! In 30+ years I've only had one...
It was the same batch of .38Spl factory reloads. After that second one with the 27-2, I took it back to the seller with the pics on my phone. He gave me a full refund.

In another transaction, I bought a 500rd box of reloaded .223 from the same "manufacturer" that only contained 400 rounds. I only knew this because I put all the ammo on stripper clips that evening and the piles didn't add up. Same seller too, he made up the difference out of another box.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:51 PM
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No rifle/pistol squibs yet, but I had a shotgun shell fizzle. Hunting ducks in the rain with an unsealed shotshell reload and water entered it. Kind of went "Phoooot!" and pellets fell all over me. The wad was sticking out of the muzzle. I just grabbed it and yanked it out.
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Old 06-21-2019, 04:27 PM
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I have had 3 occasions where the projectiles have left the case and jammed the action of my 929. All these were factory federal syntec the lipstick ones. I don’t think the synthetic coating let’s the case grip the projectiles. Only use these in my Para now.
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraynky View Post
YES THEY WILL SPLINTER! Ask me how I figured that out. Make sure it is a very hardwood dowel if it's all you have. After my fiasco with a splintered dowel rod (was a long time ago and in a rifle, while trying to slug the barrel), I went out and bought 2-3 sizes of brass rod, in case it ever happened again. (it hasn't)
Only because you bought the rods. Don't you know anything about reloading, gunsmithing, and life in general?
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Old 06-28-2019, 01:38 AM
Beemer-mark Beemer-mark is offline
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Wow, I use a screw driver small than the bore and drive it out with whatever I have handy. Often the revolver or Pistol butt.
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  #39  
Old 06-30-2019, 08:45 PM
Qc Pistolero Qc Pistolero is offline
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Any rod you use,make sure its clean.Alu rods are known to easily inbed hard this and that and you don't want any hard this and that to be rubbing against the bore of your pet handgun while you're whacking on that rod down the tube.
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