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  #51  
Old 02-14-2020, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by marathonrunner View Post
CCI is the hardest so I guess in that catagory I was not wrong. When I posted this Hornady and other manufacturers told me CCI was hardest and to try Federal so that was the only thing I had to go on

"hard" or soft doesn't mean a thing when you say "the worst" Billions of them have been shot and work just fine.

Primers are extremely reliable little things, there is no fault with CCI or any of them.


If you don't seat them right none of them will work.


It's NOT the primer.
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  #52  
Old 02-14-2020, 12:33 PM
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I have a couple thousand WW large rifle primers that are hard to seat. Very hard to seat. Like, break-your-primer-tool hard to seat. I bought them about 30 years ago. Still have them.
They are the only primers I've ever had an issue with.
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  #53  
Old 02-14-2020, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by marathonrunner View Post
CCI is the hardest so I guess in that catagory I was not wrong. When I posted this Hornady and other manufacturers told me CCI was hardest and to try Federal so that was the only thing I had to go on
What a lot of folks here are going off on you for is the thread title itself. If you had labeled it " CCI Small Pistol Primers, having problems! Help" instead of what you posted you wouldn't be getting snarky answers. Because it is very rare that you get even one defective primer from any primer manufacturer, much less a whole batch. And hardness or softness has little to do with seating the primers, just lighting them off in your handgun. Like you said, you found that your Lyman tool wasn't seating the primers all the way down, which is why you are having problems and not the primers itself.

And as a note of information, you will definitely find differences in the shell holders in height. I have some by different manufacturers in the same caliber and they might be 10-20 thousandths difference between them and could affect your primer seating with your Lyman hand primer. That's why I like the RCBS bench mount priming system so much as that isn't a problem because of the way it works the difference in the shell holders doesn't matter. The RCBS priming system isn't cheap, but it will give you a lifetime of service and quality priming. I bought mine back in the 80's and it's still going strong. This is the priming system I am talking about: <<<<LINK TO RCBS BENCH MOUNT PRIMER>>>>
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  #54  
Old 02-14-2020, 01:50 PM
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Lightened springs will lead to misfires if lightened enough. WHen I lightened the actions on my revolvers, I found it necessary to switch from CCI to Federal primers. On revolvers, it is also possible for the strain screw to cack out. This will also cause misfires. Check it for tightness. It should be screwed all the way in.
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Old 02-14-2020, 02:38 PM
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+ 1 on the RCBS Bench Mount Priming tool . Been using mine since 1973 & it still works just fine + gives a " feel " that a press or other tools I've used just do not . I use different primers from CCI , Fed , Rem & Win . I use what has worked best for me in each application . Handgun cases I don't uniform primer pockets & rifle cases I do unless they're Lapua or Norma plus flasholes are drilled . Costs more but saves prep time .
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  #56  
Old 02-14-2020, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredj338 View Post
Primers have to seat to the bottom of the pocket, not flush. With mixed brass, that can be the problem. Push harder, they wont go off.
Or seat by hand. In the sixties, I believe, I read in The American Rifleman, which I believe at that time was a conservative and AUTHORITATIVE source, that the best way to seat primers was to seat by feel, rotate the case 180 degrees, and again apply the same pressure. I have never, by any evidence, broken priming compound, and I have never had an ignition failure with hand-seated primers. I try to stick with CCI primers, but I have used others. For a while I had a couple of revolvers improved by Austin Behlert. No problems with those, either.

I don't know everything about primers, so I am hesitant to make a grand pronouncement, but I seat primers by what I consider "the NRA way," and I have never had a problem. I consider this a significant hint.

P.S. I have always used the Lee hand-priming tools, but there are a few others. The main thing is that you can feel the primer being seated. Almost all normal people can do this, certainly any who should be reloading. The key is Fred's first sentence above.
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  #57  
Old 02-14-2020, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
Seat those primers until they hit the bottom of the pocket .
Ease up on the lever and spin the case 1/2 turn in the shell holder and press the primer in again to make sure it's fully seated and not cock-eyed .
This cured all my "light strikes" and "hard primers"...try it .

Little hand primers don't develop a lot of power like a press so you have to pay attention to how deep the primers are goin in.
Gary
I apologize for posting some of the same later on. I had not yet read your post.
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  #58  
Old 02-14-2020, 03:59 PM
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My experience with the Lee hand priming tool (the original round tray model) has been that if you have to rotate the case to fully seat the primer, the tool is worn and eventually won't fully seat a primer even if the case is rotated. I've done the rotation procedure with the Lee, but don't recall doing it with a new tool. I never wore out one of the later Lee square tray models; just threw them away because they didn't work very well to begin with.

With all-steel hand priming tools (at least the ones I've used), rotating a case to fully seat a primer has not been necessary.
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  #59  
Old 02-14-2020, 04:49 PM
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The difference in hardness with CCI primers is slight, and if any gun has issues with then, you need to fix your gun. High CCI primers, smashed CCI primers, they've always go Bang for me.
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:45 PM
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OK SORRY FOR THE CAPS. BUT MY FIRST LYMAN HAND PRESS THE HANDLE WOULD NOT EXTEND UNLESS I PULLED IT MANUALLY. THE SECOND LYMAN HAND PRESS I JUST FOUND OUT THE ROD THAT SEATS THE PRIMER MUST BE OFF BECAUSE IT IS NOT SEATING THE PRIMERS ALL THE WAY.

I BOUGHT ANOTHER LYMAN(THIS IS THE 3RD ONE) AND THIS WORKS PERFECT. IT SEATS THE PRIMERS ALL THE WAY WHERE THE ONE PRIOR TO THIS UNIT WASN'T. ALL IN ALL IT WAS LYMAN DEFECTIVE PRODUCT I BOUGHT.
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  #61  
Old 02-16-2020, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by marathonrunner View Post
I just worked out how much I can buy factory ammo at 1000 rounds vs reloading and I save $20 to $40 per 1000 rounds! Yikes definitely not worth reloading..lol
At this point in time I tend to agree with your numbers, but only in the context of current political climate. Right now good loaded ammo is plentiful and dirt cheap.
In 2004 the situation was very similar. Reloading was not economically feasible, so I didn't, but I kept my equipment and components for old times sake. Four years later I (And the buddies I reloaded for) were very glad I stockpiled components during the good years.

Stack'em deep while the gettin's good, kid.
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Old 02-16-2020, 11:42 AM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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Having started reloading over 50 years ago, I'm finding some stuff in this thread amusing. Waaaaay back then, one was supposed to make sure your primers were fully seated at the bottom of the primer pocket. That generally puts the top of the primer below the surface of the case head. If you look carefully at most factory ammo, the primers are below the surface of the case head because they're bottomed out in the primer pocket. Hand primer tools didn't exist.

Seating primers "by feel" seems to be one of those things that bench rest shooters or others seeking to minimize variation between each and every obsessively assembled round decided was "necessary". The various manufacturers jumped right on this as it was another revenue stream. The ammo factories don't seat primers by feel and that seems to work just fine. If you seat primers on the press while-but after-expanding the case necks, you can do 2 operations at the same time.

Somewhere back in the first 25 or so posts, we had the nub of the matter: tolerance stack. Primer pockets are formed by swaging, if the tools get a tad worn, the pockets become tighter than ideal. The primer cups are formed by a punch process in a die, again if parts get worn, the cups get a bit larger. Doesn't take much to cause issues.

I hate to mention another process that started with bench rest shooters, but I've found that seating primers in once fired military rifle brass is a lot easier if you uniform the primer pocket after swaging the crimp out. Yeah, it's another tedious step in initial case prep, but it pays in the long run. If you're using small primers, the same tool does both rifle and pistol cases.

Last edited by WR Moore; 02-16-2020 at 11:47 AM.
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  #63  
Old 02-16-2020, 11:57 AM
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Marathonrunner, glad you found out what the issue was, may your future reloading endeavors be trouble free.
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  #64  
Old 02-16-2020, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by psquarejr View Post
Marathonrunner, glad you found out what the issue was, may your future reloading endeavors be trouble free.
Well it was an expensive lesson. As it turned out the problem was not CCI primers but a defective Lyman Hand Primer tool. The first one I bought was also defective and the replacement I couldn't believe that too was bad. The 3rd one works perfect
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