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Old 02-09-2020, 07:49 PM
Dicem Dicem is offline
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Default Blue/Purple nickel colored brass

I picked up a bunch of 40 mm nickel cases at the range the other day in California and have tumbled them for a couple of hours and the color has not changed. WMA 1B 40 mm is the marking on the head stamp. Does anyone have any idea what the are?
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:21 PM
Turn4811 Turn4811 is offline
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The WMA is Winchester brass and it is .40 caliber. Re-loaders will chemically treat brass to keep it in groups for tracking purposes. For me I would give a close inspection and do a one time load leaving it for somebody to scrounge.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:36 PM
mckenney99 mckenney99 is offline
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I believe that brass is from a government contract overrun lot of 40 S&W ammo. Not sure why it was dyed purple but it's pretty distinctive. It was available about 1 or 2 years ago and I still see it pop up every now and then. Should reload just like any other brass.

1000 Rounds - 40 Cal SW 180 Grain FMJ Winchester Training Ammo - Purple Brass - Z Q4409 | SGAmmo.com

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Old 02-10-2020, 07:44 AM
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I'd wager that the dye job was to make sure that practice ammo did not get mixed in with duty ammo.
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Old 02-10-2020, 10:52 AM
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I want to see the holster for the 40 MM hand gun.
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:22 PM
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I want to see the holster for the 40 MM hand gun.
There is actually such a thing.


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Old 02-10-2020, 12:29 PM
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A picture is needed from the OP!


Liver of Sulfur (jewelry stuff) or Lime. No I do know know the concentration here is a whole boatload of inf. I DID NOT write it. copied from the web.!!


Read this entire essay before attempting any one
treatment. If you choose to just "cut and paste" part
of this, please make sure you get the safety instructions
and warnings after the recipes. Under no circumstances
do I consider myself liable for any accidents which occur
while using any of these chemicals. Also, I do not consider
myself an expert in this field and am still doing research
for the FAQ. This will be a temporary article. Because I
am still experimenting, I cannot vouch for all of these
colors.

Concentrations and conditions DO matter. (Concentration
is more important than actual volume, so if you want to
use less, make sure that you use proportionately less of
each ingredient) If you want good results follow the
recipes closely. Above all it is important that the brass
surfaces be clean. This means an extra hour or so in the
tumbler for the cases and then touch them only sparingly.

I have tried to collate recipes which will require the
acquisition of the more common chemicals. I have also tried
to steer clear of the really hazardous arsenic and cyanide
salts (which you probably can't get anyway) If you feel
that you've been cheated by this, please refer to the
references section of this report and find the books for yourself in any well stocked library.

It is my understanding that these are all surface
coatings and should not damage or weaken the brass.
Obviously you will want to do this treatment with unprimed
brass. DO NOT USE METAL UTENSILS (ok maybe stainless steel)
Glass or Plastic containers are the preference.
If you are really worried about what this is going to do to your brass,
refer again to the reference section below.

TIFFANY GREEN:
Copper Sulfate.................8 ounces
Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
Sodium Chloride................4 ounces
Zinc Chloride..................1 ounce
Acetic Acid....................2 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon

VERDE:
Copper Nitrate.................16 ounces
Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
Acetic Acid....................1 quart
Water..........................1 gallon

GREEN:
Iron ( ferric) Nitrate.........2 ounces ( Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature, brass can be immersed
or the solution may be "painted" on)

HARDWARE GREEN:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........1 ounce (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium Thiosulfate.............6 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 160F)

RED:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........6 ounces (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium hyposulphite............6 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 170F will speed up this reaction)

BLUE:
Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces Lead Acetate...................4 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)
or
Lead Acetate...................2 to 4 ounces
Sodium Thiosulfate.............8 ounces
Acetic Acid....................4 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 180F. This color will change if
not lacquered [DO NOT LACQUER FIREARM CARTRIDGES]
Take your chances with the color change.)

BLUE BLACK:
Copper Carbonate...............1 pound
Ammonium Hydroxide.............1 quart
Water..........................3 quarts
(Add the water after the carbonate and hydroxide
have been mixed. There must be excess Copper
Carbonate. Use at 175F. This color can be fixed
(made more permanent) by quickly dipping in a 2.5%# Sodium Hydroxide solution.)

BLACK:
Ammonium Hydrosulfide...........2.25 ounces
Potassium sulfide...............1 ounce
Water...........................1 gallon
(use at room temperature or COOLER for best results)

BROWN:
Potassium Chlorate..............5.5 ounces
Nickel Sulfate..................2.75 ounces
Copper Sulfate..................24 ounces
Water...........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)

SAFETY:
1. NEVER taste any of these chemicals.
2. Keep very far out of the reach of children.
3. Most Nitrates are good oxidizing agents and
should not be stored with anything flammable.
4. Acetic Acid has a VERY strong pungent odor.
Use in well ventilated areas. This acid can
be airborne in vapor form. If you feel that
you have breathed enough of it to feel
uncomfortable, leave the area and drink a
carbonated soft drink. "Have a Coke" Do not underestimate this chemical.
5. Many of these chemicals may stain your skin or
clothing. Wear rubber gloves and protective
clothing including glasses of some sort.
6. Steam can cause serious burns. Solutions of salts
can actually exceed the boiling point of water.
The steam from these solutions can be very dangerous.
BE CAREFUL WITH STEAM AND BOILING SOLUTIONS.
7. Feel free to change concentrations for experimentation
purposes but do not change the ingredients in any
one recipe.
8. Always be fully awake and alert around chemicals.

CONVERSIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS:
Ounces are assumably troy ounces, even when dealing
with liquids or solutions. Do not use fluid ounces.
1 ounce = 31.103 grams = 480 grains
1 quart = 0.25 gallon = 946.4 mL
1 gallon = 3.785 L
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansdds View Post
I'd wager that the dye job was to make sure that practice ammo did not get mixed in with duty ammo.
Yep. Sounds like DHS practice ammo.
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Old 02-10-2020, 02:16 PM
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DHS practice ammo.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:34 AM
Racer X Racer X is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansdds View Post
There is actually such a thing.


I prefer a Mark 19.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:47 PM
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I sure hope the picture of the 40mm is only a photo shoot..........

Love the pretty background with all the nice green leaves and little branches.

Died cases are a neat idea but I am old fashioned and sometimes use different colored primers or brands of cases for my different loads if I run out of ammo boxes or plastic units.

All my Milt. spec brass is used for target loads........ no exceptions, be it pistol, revolver or rifle.

I will mark my shotgun bases with a black felt marker when the hull is on it's last loading, though.

Died brass is interesting but I don't pick it up.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:00 PM
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I'm not so complicated, I just write the loading data on a piece of paper (or old business card) and put it in the zip lock bag with the ammo.
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