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Old 06-22-2020, 08:09 PM
kbm6893 kbm6893 is offline
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Default Case Stuck in Re-sizing Die

I guess it was bound to finally happen. I was resizing .223 brass and a case got stuck. Brass was lubed. I saw a youtube video that had me tap the pin out from the top and the pin and brass came out, but the pin is still stuck in there. What do you guys do?

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Old 06-22-2020, 08:16 PM
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This:
RCBS Stuck Case Remover
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:20 PM
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The brass is out but the pin is still stuck in the brass.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:26 PM
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The pin is in the case? On a 223 case I destroy the case! on a rare case I would do the opposite. You might try getting a shell holder on the rim and put in in the press with no die and grip the pin (I assume you mean the decapping rod) with tape wrapped pliers and pull apart to salvage the rod. But 223 brass is so plentiful I would just cut the head off the case and slide the rod out. It is a 50 cent brass (at most), and 5 to 10 dollar rod! A plumbing pipe cutter work well, and anywhere below the shoulder, you don't want to hit the expander ball!

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Old 06-22-2020, 08:29 PM
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Decapping pin or expander ball? You'll end up cutting the case in half before you're done. Every time I've stuck a .223 case--and I'm a pro at it--it's been because of insufficient lube on the case base. Once I switched to Imperial resizing wax, I've never stuck another one.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:54 PM
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What brand of die? If RCBS, you can send it back and they will fix or repair.
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Old 06-22-2020, 10:26 PM
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It is a Lee Die. I got it out. I used a small pipe cutter and just spun it around the case a few times and it cut the case.

It was a .223 case. I had lubed it. I have been using a homemade case lube. It’s done thousands of cases no problem. It does seem to dry fast.

The pin looks ok. I’ll reassemble it tomorrow and lube I’m smaller batches. I should pick up some extra pins. I’ve never had to replace a rifle die pin before. Does it use the same pin as a pistol die? I would think not.
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Old 06-22-2020, 10:45 PM
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For some reason some 223 cases won't resize without a lot of force. When I hit the hard spot I stop and remove it and go to another. I don't know the problem but it is not the lube and easier to trash than looking for the problem and having a stuck case.

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Old 06-22-2020, 10:51 PM
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Sorry, but this post has me confused! It reads as though you are more concerned with saving the recapping pin and expander ball than the die!

I tend to have 2-3 stuck cases each year with the volume of 223 match ammo that I load each year. Usually, when a case gets stuck, the run pulls out of the shell holder. When this happens, I back the stem out of the case as far as I can. Then, I break out my stuck case tool, drill the primer pocket, tap the case head, then torque the case out of the sizing die.

Typically, die manufacturers will remove a stuck case for about $5. Between the time not able to reload because the die is in the mail, I have found the stuck case removal kit to be a worthwhile investment!
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Old 06-23-2020, 12:05 AM
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I stuck one and managed to get it out, but I had no idea it was such a common problem. Definitely one I don't want to have to deal with repeatedly.

I bought a universal depriming die. My plan is to deprime and resize in two separate steps.

I figure I'll remove the pin from the resizing die, and use it to resize the exterior of the case, then deprime using the 223 pin in the universal depriming die to deprime and flare the neck.

Anybody see any potential issues with that plan?
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:08 AM
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I stuck one and managed to get it out, but I had no idea it was such a common problem. Definitely one I don't want to have to deal with repeatedly.

I bought a universal depriming die. My plan is to deprime and resize in two separate steps.

I figure I'll remove the pin from the resizing die, and use it to resize the exterior of the case, then deprime using the 223 pin in the universal depriming die to deprime and flare the neck.

Anybody see any potential issues with that plan?
In my experience, the pin is not what gets stuck or the problem. The expander ball will not come out of a case while it's stuck in the die. You may be able to remove the decapping stem if it's a screw-on type, but the expander will remain in the case.

The only cases I've stuck were .223s, each time using "homemade" case lubes of different types. Since I've switched to Imperial resizing lube, nary a one has come close.

I've found Imperial wax to be too cheap, last too long, and long proven to prevent stuck cases to be concerned with saving a nickel with any homemade lubes.

If you want to resize/deprime in two steps, I recommend deprime first, then resize.
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:12 AM
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Sorry, but this post has me confused! It reads as though you are more concerned with saving the recapping pin and expander ball than the die!

I tend to have 2-3 stuck cases each year with the volume of 223 match ammo that I load each year. Usually, when a case gets stuck, the run pulls out of the shell holder. When this happens, I back the stem out of the case as far as I can. Then, I break out my stuck case tool, drill the primer pocket, tap the case head, then torque the case out of the sizing die.

Typically, die manufacturers will remove a stuck case for about $5. Between the time not able to reload because the die is in the mail, I have found the stuck case removal kit to be a worthwhile investment!

I guess I’m confused as well. I’ve only been loading for 7 years. I replaced a de-capping pin one time on a pistol die because it bent. I have never had an issue with the rifle pin until now.

The case got stuck and the ram wouldn’t go back down so when I forced it the case left the shell holder and the ram when down. The case was still in the die.

I watched a video on YouTube. I loosened the nut holding the pin and tapped the pin downward using a punch and a hammer. The case fell from the die with the pin still in it.



I could not remove the pin. I used a plumbers pipe cutter and spun it a few times. The case was cleanly cut and I was able to get the pin.

The rod has no ball on there. It is a Lee die. The rod flares out a bit for the bottom portion Is this the ball? How could I save the ball? It’s not a separate part of the rod. If that was toast then I’d have to chuck the whole thing

I have a universal depriming die I used to use it but started wet tumbling without pins my brass, then I would deprime and resize in one step after lubing. I figured why do two steps instead of one? Maybe I’ll go back to the old way. But couldn’t the case also get stuck if I’m just resizing without a dead primer in the pocket?

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Old 06-23-2020, 09:20 AM
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Lee dies use a unique system (on the more recent production) and that part is not a lifetime warranty part! The bulge is the internal neck sizing "button" and is caliber and length specific.

There are 2 different styles of stuck case removers, 1) the RCBS type where you drill and thread the primer pocket. I have used mine hundreds of times! 2) the Bonanza type. It jacks the stem up through the stuck case neck. Then you use a rod and drive the case out of the die. I have used mine ONCE, in a RCBS 300 Blackout die. The resizing chamber is too short to get the decapping pin out of the way for drilling the primer pocket! I just happen to have the Bonanza from buying a box of stuff gun shops can't sell, or I would have had to mail in the die. This type puller would be for bottle neck cases like 300 BO, 221 Fireball, and 30 Mauser, maybe 30 Lugar (all of those rounds can be made from 223 and I do) There may be others .

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Old 06-23-2020, 10:13 AM
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As already recommended here: Buy a stuck case remover.
They are not expensive and work.

Sometime a case sticks in the die and you have no idea why. You treaded all the cases the same way and suddenly it happens.

Just had to remove a stuck case last weekend for a friend. After a few minutes the case was out of the die. For me just a few minutes of work, but he has to wait one week until we see us again.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:36 AM
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Lee dies use a unique system (on the more recent production) and that part is not a lifetime warranty part! The bulge is the internal neck sizing "button" and is caliber and length specific...
Mine is a Lee die set as well, and this is how I was thinking worked.

Seems to me that in my case what is happening is the neck of the brass gets wedged between the shell of the die that does the external sizing of the case neck and the bulge in the pin that does the internal neck sizing.

The brass is being forced into the gap between the internal and external sizing parts at the same time and it is getting stuck. So I was thinking that if I can resize the neck exterior first, then resize the interior in a separate step that should eliminate the problem with neck wall getting stuck between the internal and external sizing parts of the die.

Since the universal depriming die doesn't attempt to resize the case exterior, I figure that installing the pin with the neck resizing button into the universal deprimer die body shouldn't cause the kind of sticking problems I've seen.

The one case that got stuck was SO stuck that the shell holder pulled half of the rim off the head of the case when the ram tried to pull it out of the die. I ended up getting it out by loosening the collar that secures the depriming pin and giving the exposed end of the pin a few taps with a screwdriver handle until it drove the case out of the die body.

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If you want to resize/deprime in two steps, I recommend deprime first, then resize.
I can try it both ways. My logic behind resizing first then depriming was to make sure the neck resizing by the depriming pin was the last operation - that way it is properly sized to accept the bullet.

I was thinking that if I resize the inside of the neck with the depriming pin/button first, and then resize the case exterior it might squeeze the neck down too tight to accept the bullet. Though using boat-tailed bullets would correct that. Might even eliminate the need to do any kind of crimp.

I'll experiment with doing it both ways, and see how it goes.
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:19 AM
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I would definitely add a little more moisture "Juice" to you home made lube................. to keep that from happening again.

Lubes, should not dry out.

Have fun.
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:31 AM
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What is your method of applying case lube to rifle cases?

I've been reloading since the late 60's!

I used to apply lube by rolling 5 cases at a time on a lube pad. I switched to spray lube for a few years and began experiencing stuck cases!

Because of the "down time" of removing stuck cases I have returned to "rolling" cases again no more stuck cases!

As far as lube I use pure anhydrous lanolin. Yes, I continue to spray 9mm in bulk but stuck cases are never a problem because of the reduced pressure during resizing.

Smiles,
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Old 06-23-2020, 01:10 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. I took the die apart and reinstalled the pin. There seems to be a slight bend to it but I used it to finish the 75 cases or so left in this batch. I will order more does from Lee and install a new one.

As for lube, I am using 1.5 ounces of pure lanolin added to 16 ounces of 99% isopropyl alcohol. It’s in a spray bottle and I give it a shake before using. I put maybe 100 cases into a Tupperware, liberally spray them, close the kids and shake up the cases, and then resize. I do notice some slide in better than others but never had an issue before this. Maybe I’ll spritz less than I have at a time. I’ve tried the pads but it takes forger to lube 4 or 5 at a time rolling on a pad. I used to use Hornady One Shot case lube spray but it’s expensive and I just figured the homemade was the same but much cheaper.
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Old 06-23-2020, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC38 View Post
Mine is a Lee die set as well, and this is how I was thinking worked.

Seems to me that in my case what is happening is the neck of the brass gets wedged between the shell of the die that does the external sizing of the case neck and the bulge in the pin that does the internal neck sizing.

The brass is being forced into the gap between the internal and external sizing parts at the same time and it is getting stuck. So I was thinking that if I can resize the neck exterior first, then resize the interior in a separate step that should eliminate the problem with neck wall getting stuck between the internal and external sizing parts of the die.

Since the universal depriming die doesn't attempt to resize the case exterior, I figure that installing the pin with the neck resizing button into the universal deprimer die body shouldn't cause the kind of sticking problems I've seen.

The one case that got stuck was SO stuck that the shell holder pulled half of the rim off the head of the case when the ram tried to pull it out of the die. I ended up getting it out by loosening the collar that secures the depriming pin and giving the exposed end of the pin a few taps with a screwdriver handle until it drove the case out of the die body.


I can try it both ways. My logic behind resizing first then depriming was to make sure the neck resizing by the depriming pin was the last operation - that way it is properly sized to accept the bullet.

I was thinking that if I resize the inside of the neck with the depriming pin/button first, and then resize the case exterior it might squeeze the neck down too tight to accept the bullet. Though using boat-tailed bullets would correct that. Might even eliminate the need to do any kind of crimp.

I'll experiment with doing it both ways, and see how it goes.
I hate to tell you this is not a workable system. In normal FL and Small Base FL dies The case is sized all at once FROM THE WEB ALL THE WAY TO THE CASE MOUTH. The neck portion is sized extra small, then as you remove the case from the die the sizing button opens the neck back up to about .220 for 223 Rem/5.56 NATO. This takes place after the body of the case is out of contact with the sizing die interior.

Several die makers offer sizing dies that the neck is sized at the time the body is but you use a "Collet" (NOTHING LIKE A LEE COLLET DIE) to size the outside of the neck to a specific size (it includes the neck wall thickness for both walls, usually .015 per side =.030" plus .224 = .254 this has no neck tension, so subtract a few .001's. Brands and lots of brass very in thickness so I own 4 or 6 collets for 22 caliber centerfire rounds, and around the same number of collets for 6mm, 6.5mm, 7.62mm, & 338 (I own only 2 collets one for Hornady brass and one for Lapua brass)

3 to 4 .001's neck tension is like having a very firm taper crimp, so no crimping step is needed, even for ammo used in an AR Platform

This type of sizing die is 2 to 4 times as expensive as a regular FL die (plus the cost of each collet) so most people don't own or even heard of them.

Ivan
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Old 06-23-2020, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
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I hate to tell you this is not a workable system. In normal FL and Small Base FL dies The case is sized all at once FROM THE WEB ALL THE WAY TO THE CASE MOUTH. The neck portion is sized extra small, then as you remove the case from the die the sizing button opens the neck back up to about .220 for 223 Rem/5.56 NATO. This takes place after the body of the case is out of contact with the sizing die interior.
Hmmn, OK, so you're saying that my thinking that the wall of the neck is getting swedged between the expander button on the depriming pin and the body of the die is incorrect?

Surely you aren't saying that FL resizing the body of the case with no depriming pin in the die, then in a second step resizing the neck and depriming the case won't work.

Because in your description above that is exactly what happens - at least in terms of sequence. The body of the die does a FL resize of the case and THEN the sizing button opens up the case mouth AFTER the FL resize of the case is complete. I don't see where making those two things separate steps could make it an "unworkable system" - since the same two things are still being done in the same sequence with the same die body and the same depriming pin. They are just being done in separate steps on the press.

Unless I'm misunderstanding your description or what you are trying to say.
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:56 PM
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[QUOTE=BC38;140813530

Surely you aren't saying that FL resizing the body of the case with no depriming pin in the die, then in a second step resizing the neck and depriming the case won't work.

[/QUOTE]

The process you described sizes the neck with out the button it stays undersize, if you then run it in again with the button, It gets expanded when the ball enters the case, the case gets sized down again then the ball expands the neck again. The downside is 1) work hardens the necks twice as fast. 2) shortens case life by up to half, & 3) Stretches necks and will require trimming to length more often (if they survive long enough)

I have found, decapping military brass the first time is a universal decapping die (no expander ball. no sizing the neck) allows you to put all the energy of the sizing stroke on the primer. Then dealing with the crimp, then FL sizing allows the most smooth and energy efficient sizing process.

On second or later reloading's or commercial/civilian ammo, the primers come out much easier. Therefore you don't need the two step process ( or 3 step with crimp removal).

I have a batch a Plane Jane commercial Winchester brass, FL sized in the Redding collet die, that has been reloaded 10 or 11 times that never needed a length trimming. Shot in a very tight chambered bolt action rifle. Brass in an AR expands a lot more, and gets worked over a lot, and we usually loose it before it fails! (but overworking can be a problem if given the chance.)

Ivan
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:15 PM
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Send it back for repair
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:18 PM
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The pins are very cheap buy a few spares just in case you break one.
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:53 PM
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The pins are very cheap buy a few spares just in case you break one.
When you are talking "Decapping Pins" they are. The OP was using the term pin to describe the "Decapping" or "Expander Rod", on latter Lee Dies this is all one piece (and somewhat expensive if broken)

Most brands have two sizes of decapping pins, Redding has 3 (Large, Small & Bench Rest) and I think Dillon has one size. In my parts index, I have 7 different sizes/types of those pins. On a busy year I go through around 15-20. Number one killer is Berdan Primed cases mixed in! Number 2 is tiny gravel in flash hole.

During the Quarantine, I was loading a batch of 308 for my AR the second case was Berdan, it wiped out a $15 decapping rod. I couldn't find anyone that had them open for business, so I stole one from a 22-250 die. I still need the replacement and will get a spare while I'm at it! I have an index that has around 20 rods for RCBS, Lyman and older Hornady dies, but nothing for Redding and yet I have 7 or 8 die sets.

I hate to be loading and have a part fail and shut me down for a week to get the part back in, so I like have dies of the same brand to cannibalize! Problem is I have 120 die sets from just about every brand and some homemade too!

Ivan
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:04 PM
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The process you described sizes the neck with out the button it stays undersize, if you then run it in again with the button, It gets expanded when the ball enters the case, the case gets sized down again then the ball expands the neck again. The downside is 1) work hardens the necks twice as fast. 2) shortens case life by up to half, & 3) Stretches necks and will require trimming to length more often (if they survive long enough)
If I were doing what you are describing then your concern would make sense. But that isn't what I am doing. Let me describe it again.

Step 1. FL resize the case with a Lee .223 die with no depriming pin installed. This will size the entire case and will leave the neck undersized.

Deprime and resize JUST THE NECK with the universal depriming die with the pin with the neck sizing button from the Lee .223 die installed. This will deprime the case and bring the neck size back up to spec, without resizing any other part of the case.

So there will be no additional working of the brass. The part of your description highlighted in yellow above never happens because the universal depriming die doesn't resize the case in any way. Make sense?

The purpose is to separate the force needed to FL resize and the force needed to deprime & neck size into separate steps, and thereby reduce the likelihood of cases sticking.

Afterwards I will ream the primer pockets and trim the brass to minimum length, then deburr the case mouths inside and out.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:44 PM
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When you are talking "Decapping Pins" they are. The OP was using the term pin to describe the "Decapping" or "Expander Rod", on latter Lee Dies this is all one piece (and somewhat expensive if broken)

Most brands have two sizes of decapping pins, Redding has 3 (Large, Small & Bench Rest) and I think Dillon has one size. In my parts index, I have 7 different sizes/types of those pins. On a busy year I go through around 15-20. Number one killer is Berdan Primed cases mixed in! Number 2 is tiny gravel in flash hole.

During the Quarantine, I was loading a batch of 308 for my AR the second case was Berdan, it wiped out a $15 decapping rod. I couldn't find anyone that had them open for business, so I stole one from a 22-250 die. I still need the replacement and will get a spare while I'm at it! I have an index that has around 20 rods for RCBS, Lyman and older Hornady dies, but nothing for Redding and yet I have 7 or 8 die sets.

I hate to be loading and have a part fail and shut me down for a week to get the part back in, so I like have dies of the same brand to cannibalize! Problem is I have 120 die sets from just about every brand and some homemade too!

Ivan
I called Lee and ordered 4 more. They’re sending me one for free as well. They said I can mail back the bent one and they’ll mail me another one free total cost for the 5 they’re sending was $24.80 including shipping. The rods were like 4 bucks each.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:53 PM
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If nothing else, this thread has convinced me I was correct in not trying to save a buck by buying Lee rifle dies. My RCBS dies have served me well for many years with a bent decapping pin being replaced only once--free from RCBS.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:56 PM
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If nothing else, this thread has convinced me I was correct in not trying to save a buck by buying Lee rifle dies. My RCBS dies have served me well for many years with a bent decapping pin being replaced only once--free from RCBS.
Lee has been fine. They also replace it once for free. They gave me the one free one with the 4 I bought and will send me another one free when I send in the bent one. New ones are less than $4. I’m sure other rods break and other does surely will stick brass, which is why RCBS sells a tool to fix a stuck die.
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:36 AM
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I called Lee and ordered 4 more. They’re sending me one for free as well. They said I can mail back the bent one and they’ll mail me another one free total cost for the 5 they’re sending was $24.80 including shipping. The rods were like 4 bucks each.
Those are the cartridge-specific pins that have the "button" to expand the neck, right - not the "universal" pins?
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Old 06-24-2020, 07:28 AM
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Those are the cartridge-specific pins that have the "button" to expand the neck, right - not the "universal" pins?
Yes. I ordered .223 rods for the .223 die.
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Old 06-24-2020, 07:48 AM
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Guess I am late to the party. One of those live and learn things

Here is a video to remove it. You have to really really try to bend or break a Lee De CAPPING pin. They are reformed roller bearings,


You can get one FREE by going to the LEE website and put one in your cart, it's free but they do charge shipping. You should almost never need a NEW pin.


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Old 06-24-2020, 08:34 AM
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Guess I am late to the party. One of those live and learn things

Here is a video to remove it. You have to really really try to bend or break a Lee De CAPPING pin. They are reformed roller bearings,


You can get one FREE by going to the LEE website and put one in your cart, it's free but they do charge shipping. You should almost never need a NEW pin.


YouTube
That’s what I did to get it out. And it’s not really bent. I see a slight wobble in it as I rescrewed the die in, and maybe as I look at it. But new ones were cheap so I figured what the hell.

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Old 06-24-2020, 10:36 AM
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That’s what I did to get it out. And it’s not really bent. I see a slight wobble in it as I rescrewed the die in, and maybe as I look at it. But new ones were cheap so I figured what the hell.
But then you said the case was stuck on the pin and had to cut the case or something??
Do you have a vice? Put the case with stick pin in vise. and use punch (used in part one) to tap out the pin.(pr use your spare decapping pin as a punch)



Don't let anyone tell how great RCBS pins are. They bend and break if you look at them wrong!. The LEE pins are way better. When you call RCBS they may send them for free but they send a bag of them!! Just like their lock rings, they send you lead shot to act as a crush nut so the little brass hex screw doesn't strip out! But those a free as well.


RCBS does make quality stuff however.
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Old 06-24-2020, 10:51 AM
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But then you said the case was stuck on the pin and had to cut the case or something??
Do you have a vice? Put the case with stick pin in vise. and use punch (used in part one) to tap out the pin.(pr use your spare decapping pin as a punch)



Don't let anyone tell how great RCBS pins are. They bend and break if you look at them wrong!. The LEE pins are way better. When you call RCBS they may send them for free but they send a bag of them!! Just like their lock rings, they send you lead shot to act as a crush nut so the little brass hex screw doesn't strip out! But those a free as well.


RCBS does make quality stuff however.
When I knocked the case and pin out, I couldn’t pull the pin out of the case. I guess I could have grabbed onto both the pin and case with pliers and pulled or chucked an end into a vice, but that seemed extreme and might have damaged the pin. I put a small pipe cutter around the case and spun it a few times to cleanly cut the case. Then slid the two halves over both ends of the pin easily.

Yeah, I know Lee makes good dies. You were my first reason for going that way when I started out. I like their lifetime warranty and I have read they are nearly impossible to break. I always buy heir 4 die set since I crimp separately. Even the .223 die set I bought with the crimping die, which I know I probably don’t need and many shooters say .223 doesn’t need to be crimped. It’s just something I started with and don’t see a need to change.

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Old 06-24-2020, 11:04 AM
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Yes. I ordered .223 rods for the .223 die.
Good to know. I think I'll get an extra or two on order myself.

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...Yeah, I know Lee makes good dies. You were my first reason for going that way when I started out. I like their lifetime warranty and I have read they are nearly impossible to break. I always buy heir 4 die set since I crimp separately. Even the .223 die set I bought with the crimping die, which I know I probably don’t need and many shooters say .223 doesn’t need to be crimped. It’s just something I started with and don’t see a need to change.
You and I have the same approach and thought process.
Great minds think alike - or so they say
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Old 06-24-2020, 11:43 AM
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Good to know. I think I'll get an extra or two on order myself.


You and I have the same approach and thought process.
Great minds think alike - or so they say
I'm not sure what you mean by "Button". The rod gets fatter about halfway down before it comes to the point. There is no button that I see.
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Old 06-24-2020, 11:57 AM
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I’ve only ever stuck one case in my life, a 223 in RCBS dies. Loaded many thousands before I stuck one. Also when was in business the 223 dies were #1 sellers and also had a lot of customers stick cases in all brands of dies. When you think about it I think it comes from guys loading high volumes of 223s and a case gets by under or not lubed. You can gobble all you want on case lube. If case is lubed it won’t stick. If 9mm / 45acp weren’t short and parallel sided guys would be sticking them too.
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:08 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean by "Button". The rod gets fatter about halfway down before it comes to the point. There is no button that I see.
Ian the Butcher called it that in post # 13 above - and it is that same fat spot on the pin you're talking about - the section of the pin that resizes the inside of the neck to the correct diameter for the bullet.
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:44 PM
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I’ve only ever stuck one case in my life, a 223 in RCBS dies. Loaded many thousands before I stuck one. Also when was in business the 223 dies were #1 sellers and also had a lot of customers stick cases in all brands of dies. When you think about it I think it comes from guys loading high volumes of 223s and a case gets by under or not lubed. You can gobble all you want on case lube. If case is lubed it won’t stick. If 9mm / 45acp weren’t short and parallel sided guys would be sticking them too.
So the more lube the better? Run a case through while it’s freshly spritzed?
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Old 06-24-2020, 04:03 PM
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So the more lube the better? Run a case through while it’s freshly spritzed?
I use the 16 oz alcohol & 2 oz lanolin solution (mixed 8:1) versus your roughly 10:1 ratio. I figure just a touch more lanolin can't hurt.

Everything I've read says to let the alcohol evaporate first.
Seems like if the case were still "wet" with the solution the alcohol would pretty much be an anti-lubricant.

If using a commercial product it might be different though.
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:10 PM
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I use the 16 oz alcohol & 2 oz lanolin solution (mixed 8:1) versus your roughly 10:1 ratio. I figure just a touch more lanolin can't hurt.

Everything I've read says to let the alcohol evaporate first.
Seems like if the case were still "wet" with the solution the alcohol would pretty much be an anti-lubricant.



If using a commercial product it might be different though.
So I can add a touch more lanolin to the mix. When the alcohol dries the cases feel kind of sticky. Gummy even. I figured that would bind things up.
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:46 PM
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So I can add a touch more lanolin to the mix. When the alcohol dries the cases feel kind of sticky. Gummy even. I figured that would bind things up.
I'm thinking maybe you are "spritzing" them heavier than I am. I just give mine a light-medium mist.
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:07 PM
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So the more lube the better? Run a case through while it’s freshly spritzed?

Over lubing will case dents in the case shoulder. It all gets compressed when squeezed in the die. Alcohol by itself will not lube anything it is just the carrying agent for the lube.


As with case cleaning people overthink case lube and creation of formulas,and then debate the best product.


Mix some 10:1 with rubbing alcohol (if you can find any) or WATER. Must be shaken well, It is WATER based It will settle out so re shake,

The alcohol will just dry faster No you don't need 99% alcohol or HEAT gas treatment

I use it on all my brass, makes sizing easier, I don't wipe it off.


Lee Case Sizing Lube 2oz Tube
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:46 PM
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Over lubing will case dents in the case shoulder. It all gets compressed when squeezed in the die. Alcohol by itself will not lube anything it is just the carrying agent for the lube.


As with case cleaning people overthink case lube and creation of formulas,and then debate the best product.


Mix some 10:1 with rubbing alcohol (if you can find any) or WATER. Must be shaken well, It is WATER based It will settle out so re shake,

The alcohol will just dry faster No you don't need 99% alcohol or HEAT gas treatment

I use it on all my brass, makes sizing easier, I don't wipe it off.


Lee Case Sizing Lube 2oz Tube
So just add the alcohol to what I already have?

Maybe I’ll just use the Hornady Case Lube for when I do rifle brass. The homemade stuff never gave me any issues with pistol brass.

You use that Lee tube lube? Rub a little between you fingers and just cost the brass as you put it into the press? How often do you reapply a little lube to your fingers? How many pieces of brass can you do before you need a little more? I know not to over due it. I used those pads once and it seems to take forever.

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Old 06-24-2020, 06:49 PM
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For a great many years my resizing lube has been STP (the motor oil additive) thinned a little with mineral spirits. I think I am still using it from the same can I bought so long ago. I have managed to stick a few cases but not the fault of the STP.
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Old 07-08-2020, 05:25 PM
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I have Lee dies for .223 and have used the OP's tubing cutter method of removing stuck case from primer punch.

Just finished resizing 6,000 .223's.

My lube method is with the RCBS case lube pad with RCBS Case Lube 2.
Pour a line 1/8" wide top to bottom on pad, put 15 cases on top, roll in lube. On first 15 with a ton of lube, I do one lubed-then 4 unlubed cases. Next 15 when lube has diminished-one lubed 3 unlubed. Next 15 1 lubed, 2 unlubed.
Last 15 lubed cases only-just enough left to do those.

Did not stick a case and have had the same 2 oz bottle of case lube-2 for 20K+ of .223, not to mention .308 and all the other rifle cases I size.

Had to do the cut cartridge when I tried 5 cases to first roll or any other combination of more unlubed to lubed.
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Old 07-08-2020, 08:54 PM
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When resizing rifle cases I use Imperial sizing wax . I also use it resizing my 44-40 cases . I have never stuck a case . It's not as quick as using some kind of spray . I enjoy reloading to time spent is not a consideration . Regards Paul
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