I understand the importance of uniform length with straight wall cases but how anal do ya'll get about it.

The reason I ask is I'm getting ready to load my first 44 Special rounds and the new Starlight brass I bought varies in length from 1.148 to 1.150. A two thousandth discrepancy tops. Is that acceptable?

Thanks

On precision rifle, 5/1000 (.005) inch is considered acceptable with a taper crimp. (I try for .001 to .0015 for 1000 yard guns.) For revolvers anything that allows a consistent crimp. With a roll crimp that's in the .010 range, with a taper crimp, almost double that works.

When I started reloading, manuals gave trim to lengths in 1/100" and my first dial caliper is in 1/100". The Bench Rest people are to blame for all this accuracy across all types of shooting, and the costs that go with it!

Ivan

By The Way, Welcome to the Best gun forum around!

Ivan

For pistol brass, that is just fine and will not make one bit of difference. For precision rifle, like benchrest competition, you want absolutely no variation, but for anything that does not require the absolute highest degree of accuracy, a 0.002" variation does not matter at all.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

I haven't bought any Starline in awhile but the new brass is generally on the short side has been my experience.
Having said that, since the 44 Spl doesn't headspace on the case mouth, you have nothing to worry about.
If you don't load too warm you'll probably have shot them several times before worrying about exceeding SAAMI length. Enjoy

I have been reloading since the mid 1970's, including thousands of straight wall pistol cases. I haven't trimmed one yet, probably haven't checked one either. They stop on the rim, so don't worry about trimming them, just reload them (SAFELY) and shoot them.

I do trim centerfire, tapered rifle cases. I don't trim tapered pistol shells though.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

The only handgun round case I have ever trimmed is the .30 Carbine (I have a Ruger Blackhawk). The slightest over-length case prevents chambering adequate to allow cylinder rotation.

Now that you mention it I trim my 38-55's and 45-70's for the long Range Single Shot rifles, but for lever actions, I never trimmed one.

22 Hornets have such varied chambers from different manufactures, they always get trimmed! But the very similar 218 Bee, never needs trimmed!

For the high accuracy single shot pistols (I have contenders) I trim or check every loading of any cartridge. (including 357 and 44 Mag)

Ivan

I'm with Old Joe Clark: "I have been reloading since the mid 1970's, including thousands of straight wall pistol cases. I haven't trimmed one yet, probably haven't checked one either."

I do trim my rifle cases and even check for inside/outside case neck thickness (within reason).

Always 'striving for mediocrity' as I grow wiser (?).

IMHO,
J.

Well, to each their own. I size and trim ALL new brass before using, regardless. once trimmed, for the most part I feel I am good to go. For 45 ACP, I never touch them again, after ten firings, I pass them on to someone in need. The others, once originally sized and trimmed do not seem to require any further adjustments, 45 Colt, 38S&W and special etc. The exception would be my 30 carbine brass. The Ruger I use it in is MOST touchy about brass. This all being handgun brass. Rifle might be another matter all together,

I’m with you. I’ve loaded tens of thousands of 38/357, 44spl/44mag, 32/32mag, 45LC/45acp and 9mm all with range brass and never trimmed the first case. Never had a problem. Just loaded up 1k .556 with range brass with no trimming and so far no issues with my AR and Mini 14. Ran about 300 rounds through a Hi Point Carbine yesterday and has a few jams that I expected due to the cheap gun but all were with factory ammo. Reloads ran flawlessly.

I only trim to length when absolutely necessary, as when forming brass from another caliber. Cutter heads leave a square edged cut on the neck. Standard practice is to chamfer and de-burr this edge with a hand held tool. My machine tool hands are not accurate and repeatable enough to chamfer and de-burr uniformly. Cutter heads and chamfer/de-burring tools are made from tool steel and have sharp edges to do their job. If you're not careful the chamfer/de-burr tool will chatter or scrape around the mouth and leave burrs or gouges, or if you're really ham handed like me, you can use the chamfer/de-burr tool to leave a knife-like edge on the case mouth. All these sharp edges and gouges are stress concentration sites that lead to failure. Cracked and split necks are my number one defect that leads to retirement. Case necks take a beating and work harden. I just leave them alone if I can to get the most life out of cases. Cartridge brass cost is not a show stopper for me. Four or five re-loads is great. C.O.L. is another matter entirely that affects functioning in repeating actions and chambering position.

Some claim exacting case length is needed for consistent crimps, in theory possibly. I have been reloading revolver ammo since 1969 and I cannot remember measuring, nor trimming any cases (38 Spec., 357 Mag., 44 Spec., 44 Mag., 45 Colt). I have made some very accurate loads, very consistent loads using a roll crimp, a profile crimp and a collet crimp on my revolver handloads...

When I am using new or once-fired commercial/surplus ammo cases I will typically trim to the shortest case in the batch, assuming the shortest case is within length tolerance specs. Of course disregard any unusually short cases outside of spec.

With the simple chuckable Lee trimmer system they all get uniformed to the same length, assuming they are long enough for a little length removal.

Sometimes I may use a lathe style trimmer and use the shorter case length(s) assuming several cases are shorter in the batch (But still within minimum case length specs) but a tad too short for the Lee chuckable trimmer.

Just depends on the length of the brass and what I am dealing with regards to being able to use the simple chuckable trimmer or the lathe style trimmer.

After firing and sizing (and prior to loading), for both handgun and rifle cases, I will usually do a quick check for excessive length, but straightwall handgun cases don't typically "grow" much at all.

All sized (and reloaded) semi-auto cases/cartridges to be used in semi-auto guns all get "gauged checked" for proper chamber fit prior to use.

Dale

Dale,
Absoultey -- I use the Sinclair version of the Wilson trimmer when needed. I upgraded to a carbide cutter and a upgrade handle. Does whatever i might need it to do. Just the way I am.