I'm going to start reloading for the 270 WSM (Winchester Short Magnum).
Bullets I have are 90gr, 100gr, 130gr, 150gr.

Please share your advise, what components you use, and your
experiences.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

My win model 70 bolt action did not do well with bullets under 130grs when I started loading my "Stock" .270.
Tried the old 150 sp flat base and the accuracy was lacking.

Later I tried the Sierra 140 spbt and it did great with 4064 and got high fps with 4350 &4831.
I use the 140 Accubond for Elk, loaded with IMR 4831 at 2990 fps.
I also have a "Hot weather load" for Antelope with a 130 boattail with 4831 moving along at just 2700 fps that puts 4 loads at .61" at 100 yards.

Your short Magnum has plenty of power for hunting, so a full load is not really needed but you need to see what weight bullet works and at what speed.



Have fun.

In the good old 270, I’ve always gotten better results with bullets of at least 130 gr. than the lighter bullets. I primarily use 4831.

In the short necked 270 WSM case, homogeneous bullets take up a lot of space. You’ll do best with lead core bullets.

If by chance you use 4831 powder..........
Hodgdon has some "Short cut" that is smaller in size and tends to meter better through a powder thrower.

I don't care about metering, I just dump, trickle and dump into a case, no matter how long it takes me.
I use any powder and am just glad that I have it.

For 20 years I just loaded for best "Groups" at 100 yards with the different type of powders and primers that I had........
staying under the maximum loads in my manuals.

As I got older, I learned that a 90% load killed a deer just as quick as a full load "Teeth Chattering" 100% maximum load that had all the recoil that you could get.

A chrony is not mandatory but it can add extra data, for you.

You might also check the rifles bedding and the odds and ends while you are at it.

Good shooting.

What's your game? Whitetail, muly, etc, I'd go with the 130 to 150 grain cup and core bullets. I don't use solid copper so I won't comment on those.

If you load lighter weight bullets to their full potential I'd expect some barrel life issues.

I haven't loaded for the short magnums in several years, and I'm working strictly from memory.

The powders I recall using often with the WSM were H4831, and H414/W760.

Seems like I remember Reloader 19 delivering well too.

Varget worked much better than I ever expected in the short magnum rounds.

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GOA
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Thank you for the Replies, and chime in if you have hints, advice, any advice.


Wow! I thought I was the only one that reloaded by NOT mass
production methods. I have no reason for a Progressive Press,
never have, probably never will. I reload in small batches
of 20 - 50 rounds.

Anyway, all very good advice, will check all.

I am looking forward to this new venture.

Reloading Revolver Bullets.

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I have 100 round ammo boxes for my target ammo but for my hunting ammo, I seldom shoot more than 20 rounds at a session with the higher fps loads that need the barrel to cool down, which can take a while when the temp's get above 50 degrees, with 4 shot groups.

If the barrel is new..............
you need to fire 4 & clean, fire 4 & clean for five times, to gently break in the barrel and remove any fowling.

Some just let it rip and don't break in a barrel.........
what ever you think will work out for you.

I do recommend a breach tool to start the cleaning rod with in the chamber area and never start the rod at the muzzle end.

Tight groups.

I am a lifelong user of the standard 270 Winchester and never found it lacking. I also have and have used the 270 WSM. It is OK for what it is but if it kills deer sized game any better than the standard I sure cannot tell it. As far as downloading the WSM why do that when a standard does the same more efficiently.

My stock Remington 700 CDL in "regular" .270 likes 130 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips on top of 58 grains of H4831 Super Short Cut with a Federal Large Rifle Primers in Winchester Cases. Deer drop like they were struck by the Hammer of Thor. Group sizes when fired from a rest average around one-half inch at 100 yards. Hope this helps.

There are a lot of quality "Bonded" bullets out there for dangerous game but for just a deer.I use the cheap (then) sierra 130 & 140 gr SPBT bullet in my .270.

First it is accurate and second, I have never shot a deer or had one go more than 30 yards after being hit with a lung or heart shot.
My last buck was was lightly brushing its horns with another smaller buck, as the heard worked up the hill to lay down after coming from small stream.
He was the lower Buck on the hill and at the shot, he just raised up his for end and flipped backwards, onto its back , lights out. The other buck just looked at him, as to say, "Wow, did I just do that" ??

Here is a picture of the 130 gr Sierra that did the job.
It is not pretty and not what the company wants them to look like but they do the job.

What twist rate? Generally, I would avoid anything under 130gr for this round due to the velocity. I generally shoot for 2850-3150 for an accuracy load.

For brass, I see you have WIN brass. I would get out the RCBS casemaster and look at neck thickness variation. In my 300 WSM, I had to cut them to 0.013” in order to get the thin spots within +/-0.0005”. PITA.

Hornady might be better.

As a side note, this is not required to shoot 1 moa.

Powder....H4831sc and re26 come to mind.

Primers....I use federal 215 gmm, but others will work.

Look at long Berger bullets too. Very good bullets.

Lee dies are interesting....if runout is under 0.003”, hunting loads should be fine...heck, maybe 0.005”.

I have targets and a Hornady concentricity gauge that tells me time and again that Lee dies work, they work quite well.

If you're loading for one turnbolt rifle and your die set doesn't include a collett neck sizing die, I highly recommend getting one.

It not only extends case life and eliminates the need of case lube, it also gives you brass fire formed to your specific chamber.

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I got a 270WSM MTM 50rd blue hinged plastic ammo box. I opened
the Winchester Bag of 270WSM to store them my new MTM box.

I had read rumors that Winchester 270WSM brass had "Out of
Round" primer flash holes.

Wow! while inspecting mine over, sure enough about 30 have
oblong flash holes. Two had "V" dented shoulders.

Length of the Cartridges miked between 2.090 to 2.099, (2.100
is text book length).

I anguished over this for awhile. I'm going to prepare 25 cartridges,
and reload 3 to try. Rifle is not set up with Scope yet anyways.

I want this Winchester Brass, because of reading that it holds
up better than high priced brands.

I will be actually writing Winchester a letter to tell them my
Excitement to shoot my new Rifle and the Disappointment in
the new Win 270WSM brass cartridges.

Thank you for reading my post.

If you look close at the bottom ones those are some of the
oblong flash holes.

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I wouldn't get my dander up over it. I routinely run a flash hole uniformer through every piece of rifle brass I acquire, new or used. The dents will probably come out on the first firing. Did the cases come in a plastic bag? Thus the dents. It happens. As for the length, they all fall between SAMMI max and trim-to lengths. I assume you'll resize and trim before use anyhow.

Thank you for reading my post and the advise.

Understand. Tumble/Walnut cleaning them up now.
I will size them. I will trim to min. 2.090. I do have an
Interior Debur Tool for the Flash Holes, I will try that too.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

While You are at it get a flash hole uniformer also. I think they are made by lyman. As long as You are uniforming the primer pocket might as well do the flash hole. I also like to outside turn the necks. What range are You using up there?

This:

Flash Hole Uniformer | Case Prep Tools

Use it after you've sized and trimmed for most consistent results.

Well after three days of Cleaning Sizing Chamfering Measuring
Trimming Deburring Inspecting, I'm ready to Reload my first
three 270WSM's.

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All that "Upkeep" done on a rifle case is fine and dandy but........

don't get carried away with the reaming and removing all that brass and shavings from all your cases..........
since once removed it is not coming back.

I take out just the "High spots" if I can and don't remove any material unless it is mandatory and might try to improve an off center primer flash hole if it does not make it over size.

I don't big deal it, now that my eyes, nerves and muscle tone is the pits and most 12 year olds can out shoot me.

Have fun.

Good advise. I was careful and didn't get carried away. Cleaning
and Sizing went really easy.

As far as Deburring the interior Flash Holes I did as you said, took
off the "High Spots". In the Primer Pocket some Holes needed a
light slight attention. All went well.

Trimming is +/- .002 of 2.093 length. Neck thickness was surprisingly
consistent on all, no "Crescent Moons".

So far their turning out to be keepers, but still disappointed in
Winchester's Quality Control.

I just took my time in between chores.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

I acquired my 270 WSM in the long past times when components were easy to come by. I bought 100 Winchester new brass. To put it mildly they were ****. About 40% neck split on the first loading. These were new brass by the way. Accuracy was terrible. I then bought 100 Remington brass and no neck splits now after 2-3 loadings and accuracy is much improved. As I have had very good results with Winchester brass in 50 years of reloading I figure this was an isolated brass problem. FYI this was 10-12 years ago so not a recent event.
I am a hunter so I do not concern myself with all the tedious case prep. If I get decent groups and good case life it is all I need.

Yea, am with you twodog max. I didn't want to go over board,
but I wanted to take a little extra care with these because I
was so disappointed with the oblong flash holes and burrs.

Thanks for reading my Post.

__________________
SD social distanc'n since 1889

Back in the 70's and 80's I found out that the best off the shelf rifle cases were from Norma brass.
They held up much longer than the Rem/Win stuff and I even have one box left that I still reload for my 22-250 rifle.

No offset primer holes and the necks did not split like the other cases, however they have gone up in price in 50 years.

An old, long-time reloader told me to think of burred flash holes as dirty fuel injectors, which spray irregular and inconsistent spurts of fuel. Same for the primer flash with burred flash holes. A deburred and consistent-size flash hole is like a clean injector, a consistent spray every time.
I don't know how much effect an oblong flash hole might have. It would be interesting to do an accuracy comparison of five oblong flash hole cases versus five perfectly round flash hole cases.
The two things I've found that seem to have the most effect on overall accuracy are a clan flash hole and the COL. both seem, for me, to have a more noticeable effect on accuracy. More so than tiny increments of powder charge. I'm no extreme long-range competitive rifle shooter--have been known to miss the sky shooting straight up--but for an aging former hunter testing out to 300 hundred yards, that is what has worked for me.
Even with COL I have found the amount of bullet "jump" to be totally dependent on the individual bullet type weight. A .020 jump on bullet "A" works fine but is lousy on bullet "B". It's all part of the reloading game.

Well I'm about ready to start Reloading and then
test fire. Got my Scope, Rings, and Mount.

Need to just put it all together.

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I have a Kimber Montana in 270 WSM. It was all over the place until I had a friend work up a load for me. It is really accurate now until the barrel heats after 4 shots. Cold this load is DEAD ON.
The load is:

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My load workup experience with 4831 SC gave me pause, at least in a .270 Winchester. Loads well under maximum flattened and extruded primers around the firing pin and extracted stiff. Could be many factors other than 4831 SC, but it seem intuitive that a powder with smaller granules burns faster. Don't know if Hodgdon lowers the nitroglycerine content to compensate for the higher surface area per unit weight, but my experience (only in one .270 Win.) indicates to proceed with caution, but you would do that anyway.

Wow! Windypoint - Thank you for Sharing and Picture of your
Reload Data.

You got me going, got up and checked my Bullets. No 140grs,
but for some reason 3 boxes of Sierra 150grs (I'll eventually
try a Reload w/ 150gr).

While I was up, decided to prepare the Mdl 70 270WSM's Bore
for the first test firing and sighting in the Scope.

Also mounted the Scope Base, all when really good. The Scope
is sitting nice and low to the receiver, just like I like it.

Thanks again, and I have posted your Reload to my notes,
for future reference.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

You are welcome. Hope you can use it as a starting point. I bought this rifle for Mountain Goat hunting when I lived in Alaska. I never managed to get to a position that would make for a clean shot. With a Mountain Goat your first shot must be well placed. A wounded Goat will hurl itself down the mountain. Now my body doesn't have the stamina required to pursue a Mountain Goat. The effort was worth it even if I didn't get to take one.

Well, I got the first 3 Test Loads reloaded.

130gr 270 (.277dia) SP Sierra/52.8grs IMR 4350/
CCI #250 LR Magnum/Win Brass/COL: 2.86/
2800fps? Crimp is just a light bump.

Off to the Range later.

Thanks for reading my post.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

I shot my 3 reloads. Pretty uneventful. Very pleasant to shoot,
Primers no where near Flat. Very clean burning.

I enjoyed shooting this 270 WSM, comparing it to my Regular
270 Win.

To break in the Barrel, I'll now Foam Clean, Oil, and shoot 3 rounds
again, and repeat this sequence, maybe a couple more times.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

For a .270 WSM, that load is way light. Were you looking at standard .270 Win. loading data when you chose that powder charge? For the .270 WSM, Hodgdon suggests a starting load of 58.0 gr of IMR-4350 and Nosler lists 59.0 gr as a starting (and most accurate load tested) with the 130 gr bullet. I have had decent results with IMR-4350 and Reloder 17 with the 130 gr bullets, Vihtavuori N-165 with 140 gr Nosler Accubonds, and Accurate Magpro with 150 gr bullets.
I have shot mostly Nosler Ballistic Tips and Accubonds in the .270WSM. BTW, I never crimp loads used in bolt actions.
Keep us posted. I am about to try some H-1000 with Nosler 150 gr Long Range Accubonds.

Thank you for your reply. I wanted to start Light for breaking in
the Barrel. The Reload I started with is from the Hornady 10th
Edition page 358.

Over the years I have found out just pick what Velocity, match
it to the Powder, and Reload. Also I found out many times while
chronographing Reloads the books are very very close in Velocity.

I will keep with this Reload for the while then do2900fps/56.0grs.

Oh, by the way, I really like this 2020 Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40,
30mm tube, Red Dot recticle, Matte finish. It's adjustments
track perfect.

Thanks for reading my post.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

Just a note on bullet types.

For 0-300 yards you only need a flat base bullet for accuracy
and the minimal drops. Plus a lot of my rifles shoot the FBSP bullets in tight little groups.

Past 300 yards the drop is less with a Boat tail design and with
the improved BC, you will also increase FPS.

Some rifles like the BT over the FB, you just need to see what your rifle likes
with the powders and weight bullets that you test out.

Have fun.

I got an opportunity to test fire 3 more Reloads.

Since the Powder Charge is under 60grs I decided to
change Primer to CCI #200 Large Rifle.

This was a welcome surprise, without really trying I put the
3 Bullets right on top of each other.

Now this is at 30 yards, Kneeling behind a small solid table,
small leather bean bag for the stock forearm rest, butt
stock resting in my shoulder, which probably is no big deal
to most shooters, but to me, shows real potential to be an
accurate Reload.

Thanks for reading my Post again.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

Black Friday was good to me. A carton of 50 Hornady 270 WSM
empty unprimed cartridges, .85 each. Made in America.

Length: 2.091" +/- .001 (the Winchester was all over the place,
had to trim to 2.090), Primer Pockets all .126" deep, flat on the
bottom, and no interior Flash Hole burrs (the Winchester's P.P.
.128" deep, some cupped bottoms, F.H. out of round, and
interior F.H. with burrs).

This Afternoon I got them ready to Reload for when I need them.
I'm much more happier with the Quality of the Hornady Cartridges.

Thank you for reading my Post.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

I switched Bullets, as I continue to Break in the Barrel. Didn't
want to use up my 130gr Spitzer Point Sierra.

I found these 135gr Hollow Point Boat Tail Sierra MatchKing
#1833 among my Bullets. I'm going to use 53.0grs of IMR
4350 and CCI LR.

Thought I'd try them out.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

Leopold make a great scope and if set with enough eye relief....
should give you years of great service and enjoyment.

I noted that you used a light crimp on the smooth wall, Sierra bullet.
Why? Did this box have a cannelure on those bullets?

I only crimp bullets that have a "can".

If a case is sized.......
there will be enough tension to hold the bullet in place on 99.8% of rifle loads.

Nice to see you are using light loads to break in the barrel....... sweet.

My 270 Std likes cci200 and 250 primers with different powders and bullet weights. My 30-06 likes these two, plus the Win. LRP !!

Have fun, finding what your rifle likes best.

"Why Crimp?"

Through out my Reloading I've found that a Crimp reduced the
size of my groups on target.

I first noticed it with my AR15 5.56/.223. I had read about Crimping,
and gave it a try. I got better groups on target. I also got
away from using Military Brass (I believe it was not sealing in
the chamber correctly), my groups got smaller.

I truely believe with a light or medium Crimp, it holds any Bullet
in place a little longer, and allows the Powder to burn correctly.
I've noticed cleaner Cartridges also, especially when using
Alliant Unique in Handguns.

I really like to use the Lee Percsion Factory Crimp Dies, whether
its for Rolled Crimps on Handgun Cartridges or the squeezed
Collet Crimps on Rifle.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

While we are at it , I will post a picture of some of the bullets that I have loaded over the years in my rifle.

All had a sweet spot in my rifle with the right powder and primer, at a certain speed.You just needed to take your time and find out what made the bullet and rifle, come together as a team.

I stopped loading "Full loads" over ten years ago when I finally learned than slow target and hunting loads, was the only way to go.
You gained accuracy and more meat, for the table with less "Blood shot" areas on the animal, that had to be cut off and tossed away.

This picture also lets you see why some bullets of the same weight, have a different BC, by its shape and structure.
Enjoy.

I got a chance to try out the 135gr Hollow Point Boat Tail Sierra MatchKing
#1833 / 53.0grs of IMR / CCI LR Primer

I was pleasantly surprised, they grouped POI as the original reload.
I'm going to reload some more up, and make sure this wasn't a
fluke deal.

Thanks for reading.

__________________
SD social distanc'n since 1889

Years back I had good luck with that JHP bullet but.............

my rifle liked the slow target load pushed with IMR 4064 powder
with a std CCI primer.

Have fun.

Well the different Bullet and Reload of the Sierra 135gr Hollow
Point Boat Tail MatchKing #1833 /IMR 4350, 53grs/CCI LR
#200/Win. brass/maybe just over 2800fps, was no fluke.

I shot 7 of the 135gr Reload. All Bullets were right there on center,
grouped on top of each other.

Wow, both Reloads; 130gr SPFB and 135gr HPBT show real
pomise for the Long Range.

Thanks for reading my Update.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

I do have IMR 4064. I thought I might try it. The only problem
I have is that I can't find a Reference for it; starting load.

Please provide reference(s) for the IMR 4064, thank you.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

The JHP loads were shot back in 2009 with a standard Win. 270 case.

43.5 gr 4064 and
51.0 gr IMR 4831 ........ both did around 2510 fps.

In the early days of loading I tried the heavy 150 gr bullet with............
50 gr H414 maximum load
47.0C 4064
56.0C 4831
52.0 IMR4350 ..... Fac Dup load.

My rifle did not do well with these test for tight groups at 100 yards, with the heavier bullet.

However, in a 270 WSM case, they might work out a little better ?

Carry on.

I went to the IMR Powder website. They have quite a bit of Data
for the 270 Winchester Short Magnum. IMR had Data on IMR 4064.
Eventually I try it out.

I did see that I have some 270Win reloaded with IMR 4064. If
I recall they did Ok in my 270Win.

Thanks again for reading my Post.

__________________
SD social distanc'n since 1889

Cruising through Colorado the other day, decided to take a break
at a Little Gun Shop. While snooping around.....

Low and behold, found two bags of 50 count Winchester Brand
270 Winchester Short Magnum empty Brass, marked $25.88 a
bag.

The Bags had been there awhile, all covered in dust, so I picked
them up, dusted them off. I just had to rescue them, for my
new 2019 Winchester Mdl 70 Featherweight 270WSM.

P.S., Last Fall I bought my first 50ct Winchester 270WSM bag that
have 80% of the Flash Holes are oblong.

I was really upset, but have now found out there appears to be
NO effect on the Accuracy of my Reloads.

Thank you for reading my Post.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

Congrats on the find of MORE cases !!

You can drill out those oblong flash holes just a very tiny bit, to maybe help with better fps but don't get carried away.

Test the drill with a good case to try to get the proper fit, so you don't remove too much material.

Tight groups.

Thanks for the Reply.

I thought about Drilling out the Flash Holes with a proper Drill Bit.
I will leave all alone for now.

My other Winchester's with Oblong Holes DO NOT appear to have
effected my Reload's accuracy.

I will prep the new Winchester Brass when the Weather gets better.
I still have those new Hornady cases to try.

Thanks for reading my post.

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SD social distanc'n since 1889

Thank you for reading my Posts.

Found a 1# Bottle of Alliant Reloader 19. I've read good reviews
for use in the 270 Winchester Short Magnum, so I'm going to
give it a try.

I want to stay 2800-2900 feet per second. The Hornady Reloading
Manual says 51.6grs, so that's what I'm going to try to be on
the safe side.

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