Great ideas you've had or borrowed from the internet

[DeplorabusUnum]

A thread to share good ideas that either you or someone else figured out or invented that you use now to improve quality, save time, or make something less tedious.

One that I found is simply mounting my little Lee press that I use for sizing lead bullets upside down like this.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1600410000
Drop in the bullet
http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1600410030
set the gas check on top, which self centers
http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1600410059
Then run the ram and the bullet comes out sized with the gas check perfectly seated and drops into a tray.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1600410320
I'm trying for the first time to add the pictures instead of just thumbnails. Hope it works.

Feel free to add any helpful ideas you're using.

[DeplorabusUnum]

Epic fail on the pictures showing up in the thread, I see. Anyone know how to get the picture in the thread instead of the link?

[Tubbsy]

I use postimage.org, upload your pic, then copy the hotlink for forum and edit out the url code but keep the [img] tags. And you get this.

[DeplorabusUnum]

OK, here's a solution for a problem I was having. Anyone with Lee bullet molds notice that as you move the sprue plate back and forth, the screw loosens and starts to back out?

I found this simple solution on-line. Take a wire from a coat hanger or some bailing wire (needs to be fairly sturdy). Bend a loop and smash the tip flat with a hammer. Then insert the flat part into the screw head and wrap the wire around the arm of the handle (which ends up looking like the number 2).

Completely solved the problem for all of my Lee molds.

[Engineer1911]

Lee molds: drill and tap a hole for a #6 set screw on the side of the mold to keep the sprue plate bolt secure.

[Ivan the Butcher]

Originally Posted by Engineer1911

Lee molds: drill and tap a hole for a #6 set screw on the side of the mold to keep the sprue plate bolt secure.

That's the way Lyman and their predecessor Ideal did it for a century and a half!

[mikld]

The most important thing I've learned about reloading from the web, is take everything I see on line with a grain of Bullseye, think of it a entertainment only and find answers/info form trustworthy sources. No, I'm not an Old School caveman that doesn't trust modern technology, and yes I know there is good load data from powder mfgs. on line, I've just seen too much BS pushed off as "Fact" on "expert" web sites...

[AlHillahoif3]

My biggest breakout revelation was that you can add Sulphur to lead with zinc contamination to slag it out and save the lead.

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by Engineer1911

Lee molds: drill and tap a hole for a #6 set screw on the side of the mold to keep the sprue plate bolt secure.

I've seen that too, but I didn't want to drill holes in my molds.
With me there's always the possibility of drilling the hole in the wrong place, thereby ruining the dang thing.

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by AlHillahoif3

My biggest breakout revelation was that you can add Sulphur to lead with zinc contamination to slag it out and save the lead.

Sheesh. My college degree was in Chemistry, but they never taught me that one. I should get my money back.

[DWalt]

I have also read about the sulfur trick, but never tried it. I haven't cast my own bullets since the late 1960s. Zinc is not very soluble in molten lead, and generally most of it (but not all) will rise to the top of molten lead where it can be skimmed off.

Anyone planning to use sulfur should work outside the house.

[Cdog]

The latest, can't believe it never crossed my mind is using a standard shell/case holder instead of the collet in a kinetic bullet puller.

[jc2721]

Oh man, I just pulled about 30 bullets and what a chore that was. If I ever have to pull bullets again I'm giving that idea a try. Thanks for posting that one, I don't think I would have ever thought to try something like that.

[Engineer1911]

My RCBS collet style bullet puller is better than the "kinetic energy" hammer. It will pull most bullets except flush wadcutters or SWC seated in 45 acp cases. For jacketed bullets it is excellent.

It takes a couple times to learn how far the bullet needs to enter the collet so that when the handle is unscrewed the pulled bullet drops free.

I bought a cheap pair of Harbor Freight wire cutters that have the cutting edges 90° to the handles for pulling nails out of wood. They work great for pulling SWC bullets. I use an RCBS 'shell holder extension' and regular shell holder to raise the bullet head above the top of the press. Grip the bullet with the wire cutters and lower the ram. The bullets may get damaged, but you aren't pounding 6 or 8 times to remove a crimped bullet.

Pulling 200 SWC bullets with excess powder charge was not fun, but better than the impact puller. Moral of the story: check load data, powder measure, powder scale, over all length for correctness!

[Ole Joe Clark]

Primer pocket cleaner.

Erector set motor that I have had since I was a kid. Hole drilled lengthwise through the brass, one end tapped 8-32, the other end drilled and reamed 1/8" dia., and another hole drilled and tapped in the side to keep the brass on the motor shaft.

Takes about 3 seconds to clean a primer pocket, and yes, I dreamed this up all by my self. I think it's absolutely brilliant. :-)

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by Cdog

The latest, can't believe it never crossed my mind is using a standard shell/case holder instead of the collet in a kinetic bullet puller.

OMG!!!! YES. I'm absolutely going to try this. I had to pull 30-40 bullets about 3 weeks ago, and at least 10 times was cussing out the stupid 3 piece, rubber band *** collet. Thank you!

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by Engineer1911

My RCBS collet style bullet puller is better than the "kinetic energy" hammer. It will pull most bullets except flush wadcutters or SWC seated in 45 acp cases. For jacketed bullets it is excellent.

It takes a couple times to learn how far the bullet needs to enter the collet so that when the handle is unscrewed the pulled bullet drops free.

I bought a cheap pair if Harbor Freight wire cutters that have the cutting edges 90° to the handles for pulling nails out of wood. They work great for pulling SWC bullets. I use an RCBS 'shell holder extension' and regular shell holder to raise the bullet head above the top of the press. Grip the bullet with the wire cutters and lower the ram. The bullets may get damaged, but you aren't pounding 6 or 8 times to remove a crimped bullet.

Pulling 200 SWC bullets with excess powder charge was not fun, but better than the impact puller. Moral of the story: check load data, powder measure, powder scale, over all length for correctness!

Nice! Harbor Freight to the rescue again. Love it. I'm trying this. I've got some DEWC's I need to pull. Just enough ogive showing to grab it, maybe?? You can pound all day with the kinetic puller and those aren't moving.

[Jeff423]

Originally Posted by mikld

The most important thing I've learned about reloading from the web, is take everything I see on line with a grain of Bullseye, think of it a entertainment only and find answers/info form trustworthy sources. No, I'm not an Old School caveman that doesn't trust modern technology, and yes I know there is good load data from powder mfgs. on line, I've just seen too much BS pushed off as "Fact" on "expert" web sites...

This is off topic and I'm not meaning to pick on young people but if I click on a reloading video and the presenter seems to be less than 25-30 I go on. Maybe for social media help but not reloading.

[Ole Joe Clark]

Originally Posted by Jeff423

This is off topic and I'm not meaning to pick on young people but if I click on a reloading video and the presenter seems to be less than 25-30 I go on. Maybe for social media help but not reloading.

You must have been reading my mind. I have said the same thing. When I was starting to load 9mm, I looked on the internet for some hints. The first guy that popped up had loose primers laying on the bench and more loose ones in a glass jar. I just skipped over him and about a dozen similar ones.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[VaTom]

I don't reload but here is a good idea I got for portable target stands. Cheap to make. I go to National Forest Ranges that only have wire stretched on posts to attach targets so I wanted something easy to transport, light weight and able to break down. Use old camping chair bags to store and transport them. Staple some cardboard to the wooded pieces and you are ready to go.

[SpikeIDMT]

Originally Posted by DeplorabusUnum

you figured out or invented that you use now to improve quality, save time, or make something less tedious.

I bought a Dillon Square Deal B progressive press a long time ago, it does all the hard work automatically, lol

I do find I can swap small pistol primers for small pistol magnum primers depending on powder in most cases for 38/357, no noticeable difference, works good

[Cdog]

Several years on another forum there was a young man that posted a link to his new reloading video and for our thoughts.

He didn't like what I had to say. At the end I asked him "Have you ever read the instructions that come with dies?" His reply was "No, my friend said this was how you do it."

While there are some good instructional videos, there's a lot know nothing people posting "how to get yourself in trouble" videos.

[mmaher94087]

VaTom, if wind is a problem; cap the ends of your base pieces, fill with sand through the 'T' upright and seal the 'T' with silicon sealer. Adds weight to the target stand but it also stabilizes the stand in light wind.

[AlHillahoif3]

Originally Posted by Ole Joe Clark

Primer pocket cleaner.

Erector set motor that I have had since I was a kid. Hole drilled lengthwise through the brass, one end tapped 8-32, the other end drilled and reamed 1/8" dia., and another hole drilled and tapped in the side to keep the brass on the motor shaft.

Takes about 3 seconds to clean a primer pocket, and yes, I dreamed this up all by my self. I think it's absolutely brilliant. :-)

Have a blessed day,

Leon

not sure if it really counts, but I learned about wet tumbling from the internet, and honestly its one of the few things in life that lives up to the hype.

[jc2721]

Originally Posted by Engineer1911

My RCBS collet style bullet puller is better than the "kinetic energy" hammer. It will pull most bullets except flush wadcutters or SWC seated in 45 acp cases. For jacketed bullets it is excellent.

It takes a couple times to learn how far the bullet needs to enter the collet so that when the handle is unscrewed the pulled bullet drops free.

I bought a cheap pair if Harbor Freight wire cutters that have the cutting edges 90° to the handles for pulling nails out of wood. They work great for pulling SWC bullets. I use an RCBS 'shell holder extension' and regular shell holder to raise the bullet head above the top of the press. Grip the bullet with the wire cutters and lower the ram. The bullets may get damaged, but you aren't pounding 6 or 8 times to remove a crimped bullet.

Pulling 200 SWC bullets with excess powder charge was not fun, but better than the impact puller. Moral of the story: check load data, powder measure, powder scale, over all length for correctness!

Being frugal (read: cheep) I wanted to reload the bullets. The problem was that the crimp wasn't holding some of the bullets (the bullets were easy to pull, just a whack or two for each).

Turns out that some of the resized and cleaned .45 brass my pal gave me wasn't fully resized. I loosened the decapper and resized the pulled brass (so as not to waste the precious primers); the re-reloaded rounds turned out OK.

BTW I put a "pill" of paper towel in the bottom of my puller--it helps to keep the noses from deforming. It traps some powder so if you're reusing the powder you've got to clean out the puller and put in a fresh piece every time you pull loads from different lots.

[mikld]

Originally Posted by Cdog

The latest, can't believe it never crossed my mind is using a standard shell/case holder instead of the collet in a kinetic bullet puller.

I used to see warnings about using regular shell holders in an impact bullet pullet instead of the aluminum collet. It was said that shell holder use could lead to setting off a round. I haven't used the collets in many years, but I don't make mistakes that I have to pull any rounds...

[mikld]

Originally Posted by jc2721

BTW I put a "pill" of paper towel in the bottom of my puller--it helps to keep the noses from deforming. It traps some powder so if you're reusing the powder you've got to clean out the puller and put in a fresh piece every time you pull loads from different lots.

A foam ear plug works great too...

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by AlHillahoif3

not sure if it really counts, but I learned about wet tumbling from the internet, and honestly its one of the few things in life that lives up to the hype.

Yes. Since wet tumbling with SS media, no need to ever bother with the primer pockets. They come out sparkling clean.

[DeplorabusUnum]

I was using the tupperware shake and bake powder coat method and pretty dissatisfied with the uneven powder distribution, the bullets sticking to each other and whatever they cool and dry on. Always left blemishes when you crack them apart.

Then I saw this powder coat "jig" that someone had made. It's two pieces of 1x6 wood cut to fit into your toaster oven. Screw the pieces together and drill holes in the unscrewed side 3/4 inch on center. Then unscrew the wood and insert a piece of aluminum flashing between them and screw the pieces of wood back together with a small bit of the flashing protruding at one end. Then pound a roofing nail into the pre-drilled holes and through the metal flashing.

The piece of metal flashing connects to the ground clip of the powder coating gun and charges all the bullets. Then just spray with powder and the powder sticks to the bullets in a nice thin even coat.

Bake in the toaster oven for 20 minutes and you've got some really nice, un-stuck powder coated bullets.

[RWPBR]

I learned about de-leading a revolver bore with copper chore boy strands on the internet...brilliant.

[Engineer1911]

Tuesday, Nov 3, 2020, is election day. After the voting places close, take your wire cutters and a pair of medium vise grips. You are now ready to harvest campaign posters printed on plastic "cardboard" or poster board.

After 2 good street corners, you will have enough target backers to last you until the next election. It is not illegal to remove campaign posters, I leave the posts or poster frames, after the polls close. You are helping to remove roadside litter.

I attach my cut-down posters so the ribs are attached to the target frame. I have one frame that is 36" high x 48" wide. I screw the backer to 48" wide member with a clear 36" . That backer was replaced after 2 years of shooting until a 10" diameter hole was shot in the center. At the Outdoor Range I use 4 pinch clamps (Harbor Freight again) to hold my backer to the 3/4" x 1-1/2" frames. Rib direction doesn't matter.

I got enough posters, six that were 4' x 8', that I will not be going out this year. Please get a couple of extras for yourself. Put a new blade in utility knife and the plastic posters cut like butter. Leather gloves are a good idea because the knife-cut plastic comes with a razor sharp edge.

[SMSgt]

One thing I learned was how to determine max COL for any bullet/cartridge combination with a cleaning rod and a couple pieces of tape. It really helped in determining where I wanted to set my seating stem for desired bullet jump. Marvelous thing the internet is. One needs only to know how to cherry pick the info out there.

[Jwjarrett]

I made a wrap around light for my Press so I didn't have any blind spots or shadows. It can be taken on and off as needed. It lights up the cases and makes it easy to verify charges.

I bought a 13 inch strip of cut-to-length warm white LED lights for $7.00. 12 volt. A scrap piece of plexiglass the Lowes guy gave me, cut in a strip, boiled and bent to shape serves as the light mount, that holds with enough tension so no mounts are needed and it doesn't obscurely my view. An old 120 to12v power converter is my power source. Everything is soldered and safe.

I put it to use today and it works great. Seven dollars and some piddling. This is what happens when I'm bored.

[LCC]

between excellent how to's and quality porn, personally find the internet invaluable..

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by SpikeIDMT

I bought a Dillon Square Deal B progressive press a long time ago, it does all the hard work automatically, lol

Yeah, that's cheating!

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by Jwjarrett

I made a wrap around light for my Press so I didn't have any blind spots or shadows. It can be taken on and off as needed. It lights up the cases and makes it easy to verify charges.

I bought a 13 inch strip of cut-to-length warm white LED lights for $7.00. 12 volt. A scrap piece of plexiglass the Lowes guy gave me, cut in a strip, boiled and bent to shape serves as the light mount, that holds with enough tension so no mounts are needed and it doesn't obscurely my view. An old 120 to12v power converter is my power source. Everything is soldered and safe.

I put it to use today and it works great. Seven dollars and some piddling. This is what happens when I'm bored.

OK, that is just cool. I guess boredom is the mother of invention when it comes to re-loading.

[Idahoan]

When checking for bullets engaging rifling (centerfire rifle bullets) polish the bullet with #0000 or #00000 steel wool before chambering. Rifling marks will show up clearly.

[Krogen]

Those primer flippers are good at wasting my time. Ever spent too long trying to shake the darn thing and get all the primers oriented the same? Just when you think you're getting the last one turned over one of the others flips wrong side up!

Maybe I'm just a clutz, but...

I just shake the tray until those on their sides lay down. I don't care if they're anvil up or smooth side up. I use the primer tube to pick up the ones with smooth side up, then put the lid on the tray and flip it upside down. Then I snag the rest of 'em.

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by Idahoan

When checking for bullets engaging rifling (centerfire rifle bullets) polish the bullet with #0000 or #00000 steel wool before chambering. Rifling marks will show up clearly.

Now that's a useful tip. Thanks

[DeplorabusUnum]

This is when you get really bored!

[duman444]

Originally Posted by mikld

I used to see warnings about using regular shell holders in an impact bullet pullet instead of the aluminum collet. It was said that shell holder use could lead to setting off a round. I haven't used the collets in many years, but I don't make mistakes that I have to pull any rounds...

I posted here a while back about having to pull a couple of hundred soft lead bullets in some reloaded .45 colt. Ended up destroying a Frankford Arsenal impact puller, so bought 2 more to finish. Just looked at the instructions on the one I have not opened and it does not have a warning on using the shell holders. It does however have about 10 other warnings, that basically say the round may discharge-period. Wear safety gear when using. Sounds like a bomb squad suit may be best

[Funflyer]

Here's a tip/fix from my workshop bag-o-tricks for the Lee 2 cavity bullet mold users. If your sprue plates always work loose, and most do from my experience, it's because the bolt is cinching down on the spring washer too tightly.

Using a flat file, reduce the thickness of the sprue plate, in the area under the bolt head, so the spring washer can do it's job as designed. Remove a few thou at a time then reassemble and test for tightness. Repeat as necessary until the plate is slightly snug and slides open with minimum force. If you happen to remove too much material, and the plate becomes too loose, simply add a .003" shim washer made from a soda can.

[jc2721]

Well, I've been testing out the shellholder/kinetic bullet puller a lot lately--turns out I've got about 300 rounds that need fixin'--lol.

The shell holder idea works fine--I don't see how it would set off a cartridge. My puller is developing a crack, however. Oh well, lesson learned.

[Mike, SC Hunter]

Originally Posted by jc2721

Well, I've been testing out the shellholder/kinetic bullet puller a lot lately--turns out I've got about 300 rounds that need fixin'--lol.

The shell holder idea works fine--I don't see how it would set off a cartridge. My puller is developing a crack, however. Oh well, lesson learned.

If the crack is in the nose that you hammer on. Get a PVC cap and glue on and keep on truckin......I did.

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by jc2721

Well, I've been testing out the shellholder/kinetic bullet puller a lot lately--turns out I've got about 300 rounds that need fixin'--lol.

The shell holder idea works fine--I don't see how it would set off a cartridge. My puller is developing a crack, however. Oh well, lesson learned.

I pulled several bullets this week with the shell holder. Worked like a charm.

[Turn4811]

I have built the Do-It-Yourself-Annealer with a little variation.

The best thing I have done for the press is add a 1.5" aluminum angle to the back of my Dillon 550B mounting bolts. I drilled holes the correct sized to hold the allen wrenches I need for the press. I thinned the piece of the angle sticking up and it also holds my bullet bin. The rear die plate pin has a stiff piece of wire wrapped around it and bent to follow the contour of the press has a hook that I use to hold a wrench that fits the powder drop adjust nut . I have also lined the bottom of my die holders with LEDs. The completed cartridge catch bin has a pin that holds it in place (wood screw with head dremeled off). If you look in the upper left of one of the pictures you can see the shell holders behind my Rockchucker. They are held in place with a finishing nail.

[DeplorabusUnum]

Originally Posted by Turn4811

I have built the Do-It-Yourself-Annealer with a little variation.

The best thing I have done for the press is add a 1.5" aluminum angle to the back of my Dillon 550B mounting bolts. I drilled holes the correct sized to hold the allen wrenches I need for the press. I thinned the piece of the angle sticking up and it also holds my bullet bin. The rear die plate pin has a stiff piece of wire wrapped around it and bent to follow the contour of the press has a hook that I use to hold a wrench that fits the powder drop adjust nut . I have also lined the bottom of my die holders with LEDs.

Pictures please

[Turn4811]

Originally Posted by DeplorabusUnum

Pictures please

See original post