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Old 10-15-2020, 01:45 PM
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Default Thinking about casting.

I’ve been reloading for about 6 years now. I load multiple pistol and rifle calibers. I’ve noticed bullets taking a while longer to get if even available. I’m considering casting. I have a friend who is getting out of casting and offered his entire lot.
500 lbs of wheel weights, 100 lbs of Linotype. Lyman 20lb bottom pour pot with thermometer. Moulds for 44 mag (2) . 45 acp and colt. 357 swc and wc. and a couple others. All Molds come with top punches to match sizer dies and a 450 lubersizer. (No heater)
I’d like to eventually powder coat, but this should get me started.
Do you cast? What are your thoughts? Would you do it all again?
Thank you,
David
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Old 10-15-2020, 02:18 PM
rockquarry rockquarry is offline
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Sort of like handloading, casting is a hobby unto itself. Many fail to realize that with handgun cartridges, a plain cast bullet that fits and is cast of the proper alloy for the load will shoot at least as accurately as the most accurate jacketed bullet, and with no leading.

However, you don't learn to make such bullets overnight. The learning experience is much too slow for today's want-it-right-now folks.

I've enjoyed casting, but it took me years before I began to be really satisfied with the performance of my own bullets. I continue to work on improving things. I haven't seen a need or advantage to powder coating as a conventional sizer/lubricator still works very well.

Much of the same can be said for cast rifle bullets.
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Old 10-15-2020, 02:20 PM
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If the price is competitive, I would say try it. You know more about your situation than we do but casting is a rewarding hobby and it never hurts to learn new things. Without knowing the real particulars of the equipment, it is hard to say but that sounds like a coupla hundred dollars either side of a grand worth of casting equipment and supplies. That is if you are trying to decide if it is worth a try.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:27 PM
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The down side of home casting is alloy/lead availability. The up side it it is a whole new world of shooting and possibly more satisfying than reloading.

I normally suggest Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook as a starting source of info and a couple places to visit on line; an excellent source for all casting info Cast bullet reference on lead alloy's, min / max pressure, lube, shrinkage, And a forum that discusses all aspects of casting boolits from alloying to molds, lubes and everything else cast boolit related, Cast Boolits

I have been casting for about 30 years and I haven't found any two better sources of info, anywhere. I have often heard "The only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets", so read up on the basics, clean your molds, melt some lead and pour some bullets (no one needs to know about your mistakes as they can be "hidden" quite easily by remelting your faux pas).

I started with a Coleman stove, 2 qt, stainless steel pot, a Lee mold, a Lee dipper and I fluxed with candle wax. I lubed with an old Lee pan lubing/sizing kit. This setup kept my 44s in bullets for about 12 months before I got a bottom pour pot. I now have 14+ molds and close to a half ton of lead and bullet alloy. Casting opened up a new side of my shooting/reloading that is extremely satisfying and loads of fun...

Last edited by mikld; 10-15-2020 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:27 PM
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Default GREAT START !

Dave:
Wow! 500#'s of WW's & 100#'s of Lino? That might last you the rest of your life, depending (obviously) how much shooting you'll do & your age. Before any further comments, your "friend" must have a Lube/Sizer and some sizer dies, which you'll need if you cast. Also, fluxing material.
As rockquarry pointed out, casting itself is a hobby...just like reloading. That quantity of casting media, AT A GOOD PRICE, would be a great start.
Factors affecting price: Have the clips been removed from the WW's? Are any of the WW's the newer style that aren't all lead? If not, pass on the whole deal! Way too difficult (time consuming) to separate the lead from the other metal (can't recall what it's called). Fresh foundry lead is too expensive to begin casting.
Don't cast to immediately save $$. Over the long run, maybe. You'll find you'll "want" more moulds (new are pricey), more lube/sizer dies, more than one pot, etc.
Also keep in mind, you need a casting location that has a breeze or where you may set a fan to keep the fumes away from your breathing.
I've been casting for over 37 yrs & still do so as an Ol' Timer, but mainly due to unavailability of casting media, I don't recommend it to a young man.
Good Luck, Hank M.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:31 PM
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Casting is relatively simple and not difficult to master. It’s a hobby that you can refine over time.

If the wheel weights are the older lead and antimony items, that’s a great haul: you’d be set for a very long time. Real Linotype is very hard to find. The hardware is just fine, although you may find you need other molds (nothing wrong with the listed molds, they just may not be what you want). Of course, price can make a huge difference.

I enjoy casting. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:36 PM
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What’s the price? Anything under $1,000 is probably a decent deal, but that depends some on the molds. If the molds are all Lee it’d drop the value some.

Any price under $750 is a good deal and the lead is worth about that much alone.

You don’t need a heater for the Lyman lubesizer. I use a heat gun but a hair dryer would work. It takes about 30 seconds to get the lube following and that only needs to be done again if you’re sizing for extended sessions.

Casting and sizing is a hobby and it does take a moderate amount of time. Not tons of time, but it’s easy to blow 2 hours casting and then sizing a batch of bullets. I started using Lee Alox, switched to PC very quickly and now also have a lubesizer which works great assuming you have the right sizing dies. Bullets are the most expensive part of reloading for any handgun round and most rifle rounds. Casting Allows to drop that price significantly.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:50 PM
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I have been reloading since 1977, and I started casting for pistol bullets around 2002. I would cast as I needed bullets, but that has been interrupted due to an accident that left me disabled. I hope to do some casting before winter sets in.

If I were to start casting (for the first time) now, I would probably take the powder coating route because it appears to be less expensive than purchasing a lubri-sizer. I haven't priced a new lubri-sizer recently, but I would expect the lubri-sizer, sizing dies and top punches could easily push you over the $300 mark. If you powder coat, expect your costs could look like this:
Lee mold $25
Lee sizer $25
A toaster oven (dedicated solely to powder coating) $20
Powder coating $7-25 (depending on brand)

Either way, you will still need/have your reloading equipment.

Before the accident in 2007, I could load a box of 38 Special WC or SWC for about $0.80 a box, 357 Magnums for about a buck a box, and 45 ACP SWCs in the same price range. For those bullets, I would quench cast them, not something you want to do if you powder coat. Typically, I would recycle wheel weights.

Would it be something I would do again? Absolutely. I can be up and shooting when others are being selective about when and what they are shooting. Casting will keep you shooting and well supplied with bullets. Cast bullets can also be used as trading fodder, I would seriously consider trading some of my cast bullets for primers, but never for powder.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:51 PM
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I still have about about a hundred pounds of linotype and I've had it for a long time. I used to use a lot of it, but as I gained a little insight into casting, I've learned that softer alloys work well, and usually better, for high-velocity handgun chamberings as well as many rifle loads. I still use linotype to slightly harden something like range scrap that may be too soft as is.

The editor of a cast bullet magazine mentioned years ago that the softest bullet fired at the highest velocity that doesn't cause leading will usually be the most accurate. That may be an oversimplification, but I've found it to be basically true in almost all instances.

When linotype was plentiful, many of us used it for everything. It would still work for that, but it would be necessary to play around with bullet diameters, powders, and load data for best results.
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:22 PM
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You lucky dog. Sounds like it fell out of the sky. Lyman still makes rebuild kits for the 450. Good rubber seals are a must. 10 pounds of wheel weights to 1/2 pound of linotype and a small amount of bullet lube and mix and run it about 800 degrees. Dip the slag off. I use a small solder iron with a heat reducer for my 450s. I have 4 set up 44-45-& 38. Drill a hole in the base for the iron to fit. 50/50 soft lube works good and you can tell when the 450 is warm enough. It doesn't take much. I heat mine with a hair drier and then the iron takes over. I like the orange lube the best. Size your bullets to the cylinder throat size or .001 over and you get 0 leading. Get a heat plate for the molds-they need to be hot. Or set on the lead pot when you plug it in. There is nothing hard about casting it just takes time. The mold has to be hot to make a pretty bullet. DON't spray the mold with wd40- It takes forever to cast a good bullet. I use carburetor spray on mine. Smoke your bullet mold with a candle & leave it on. The bullets drop easier. Put the mold on a board and whack it with a hammer handle and the bullets fall out. No need to clean the mold -just store in a dry place. Here is a photo of where I drilled the hole for the solder iron.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00599 (2)LYMAN 452460.jpg (167.2 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00496 (2)195 lyman.jpg (64.1 KB, 59 views)

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Old 10-15-2020, 04:47 PM
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I'd definitely do it all over again. Casting is just another facet of the whole reloading hobby. When there are shortages of components it just becomes even more satisfying. Hot metal requires close attention but it's not difficult to produce a big pile of nice bullets in a couple of hours.

I use a 450 lube sizer with SPG lube. It's soft enough that I have never used the heater. Other lubes would probably require it.

Running a bunch of bullets through the lube sizer is repetitive but I find it almost relaxing.

Someday I will probably try powder coating but I only shoot outdoors so smoke is not an issue.

I say you should at least give it a try. Will your friend let you sit with him and cast a little to try it out?
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Old 10-15-2020, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
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...I say you should at least give it a try. Will your friend let you sit with him and cast a little to try it out?
That right there sounds like a really good idea.

I don't cast at this time myself, but getting personal instruction from the seller and finding out if I'd even like casting before making a significant $$$ investment just sounds wise.
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Old 10-15-2020, 05:58 PM
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I see no downside. You can easily sell all on the list if you dont enjoy it.
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:41 PM
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Thank you for all the responses. All the dies are Lyman except one NOE 300 grain 44 mag and one Lee 45 acp. Unfortunately though they are all two cavity except for a few single cavity round ball moulds. I’d like to try some of the 4 or six cavity moulds later. Glad to hear that the lubersizer is still being used. I watched a video series to learn about it. Unfortunately the seller hasn’t cast in quiet a few years and I’d hate to ask him to fire it all back up. All tools and accessories have been stored inside and climate controlled. He also has a Saeco bullet tester included in the deal. I’m gonna get the Lyman book and he’s giving me his copy of “jacketed performance with cast bullets”. All the wheel weights appeared to still have the clips. They were likely collected 15-20 years ago so I’m hoping no zinc. I’ve got an outdoor fryer coming from my Dad, just need a big cast iron dutch oven or pot to start making ingots. I’m excited to learn something new. Thanks for letting me talk about it.
David.
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:59 PM
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You'll be able to separate those clips pretty easily. It can be a little confusing to see them float on a pool of liquid though.

Here's another read about bullet casting. The PDF is available to download for free too.

From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide For Handgunners, Table of Contents - Fryxell/Applegate
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:19 PM
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I have a guy I go to for tires, and some repairs,,
I asked if he would sell me one of the buckets of wheel weights he had by the tire machine,,

He told me to bring a bucket,, I went to Lowes and got a blue bucket,,

Well I returned, he said back your truck over here,,
We lifted one of the full buckets on the back of my truck,
it has to weigh 200 pounds, easily,,

He refused ANY money, I even offered to buy lunch,, NOPE,,

I think he saves the weights as trading fodder for his regular tire customers,,
Other tire stores said they had a waiting list for the weights,, to "BUY" them.

Now, I gotta sort out the zinc, and steel weights,, I watched a video on how to sort,,,

If there are many zinc weights, I will make a hanging weight for my tractor, similar to the 42 pound iron weights I use.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:22 PM
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I've thought about casting a time or two, but around here nearly all the wheel weights are zinc. Just hasn't crossed the affordable cost threshold yet to buy lead.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:24 PM
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You might want to verify the wheel weights are mainly lead before valuing them. 500 pounds of WWs can turn into not much lead if there’s a bunch of steel, zinc and other trash mixed in. I bought 500 lbs of WWs earlier this year and was happy to get a little over 300 pounds of lead. I paid $200 for the lot. It took a couple hours spread out over the course of a week to get them all sorted. These were pretty old. I’ve seen buckets at the local tire shop and I don’t think 10% of the weights were lead.

2 cavity molds are good for learning, but not so great for turning 20 lbs of lead ingots into bullets.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
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but around here nearly all the wheel weights are zinc.
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You might want to verify the wheel weights are mainly lead before valuing them.

I’ve seen buckets at the local tire shop and I don’t think 10% of the weights were lead.

2 cavity molds are good for learning, but not so great for turning 20 lbs of lead ingots into bullets.
When I unloaded the bucket I was given, I did a "bend test" on the unmarked ones that covered the top half inch,,

I could bend 80% of the weights, easily,,
The guy in the video could score lead weights with his fingernail,,
he must drink a LOT more milk than me,, I could barely mark the lead weights with my fingernail.

BUT, luckily, I have a use for ALL of the weights,, I am always needing more weights for my tractors,,

Right now, I move the ones I have from tractor, to tractor,, because I do not have enough weights.

In this pic, the weights are on the middle tractor, the left tractor does not have any,,, YET!!



Guys, share those zinc weights with one of your farmer tractor buddies!!

They might even invite you over to shoot
some groundhogs!!

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Old 10-15-2020, 09:13 PM
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The wheel weights should be lead. Zinc will float anyway. Take the 450 apart completely and put in a container on a hot plate and it will melt the old lube out. And the lead pot-- When you get through casting --fill the pot back up for next time. It is a lot easier and will save time.

Last edited by 4barrel; 10-15-2020 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:43 PM
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The wheel weights should be lead. Zinc will float anyway.
If you get the mix, from what I understand ,, too hot by 80 degrees, the zinc will melt, and ruin the lead,,

I think it is important to sort, unless you have a temperature accurate melting furnace,,

The "turkey cooker" can ruin a batch, in a matter of minutes,,,

IMHO , of course,,
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:59 PM
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Despite having a plethora of casting gear and molds, it didn't make sense for me to cast my own rather than buy already finished boolits when I was away from home every weekday. After retirement, it's a different story.
FWIW, I tried both powder coating and Hitek in different loads, and found that boolits through the Star lube/sizer was better. Both faster and cleaner (that danged powder can get everywhere). Most of my guns didn't shoot differently either way, but the Sharps really prefers its favorite 535gr Postell lubed rather than either coating.
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Old 10-15-2020, 11:24 PM
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Fill your cast iron pot up and fire up the crawfish boiler! (That’s a turkey fryer for you Yankees...lol). Just be mindful of how quickly your lead wheel weights are melting. Hotter is NOT better. As things start to melt, turn the fire down. If it’s too cool, the melting will stop. You’ll develop a feel for the right temp. Don’t be in a hurry. The zinc and steel will float on top as the lead melts . Keep the fire just hot enough. Skim the zinc off fairly quickly. Call it good.

Also, don’t add wheel weights to liquid lead. There may be moisture, especially when stored in a bucket. You DO NOT want any moisture anywhere near that lead pot...not even a drop of sweat.

This ain’t rocket science. I’m proof or that!
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Old 10-16-2020, 07:02 AM
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I was given for free everything for casting bullets. Furnance, sizer\luber, molds, lead ingots, mold for ingots, 6.5mm bullets, 7mm bullets, plus a lee pro 1000 press for 45acp. The progressive press was out of time. Had it working in a few minutes. I heard the furnace uses lots of electricity. I was told to go to a motel to run the furnace.

L decades ago I was using Carolina Moly coated lead cast bullets. Loading the 45acp was $0.02 to $0.05 per round. I been buying sns casting bullets.

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Old 10-16-2020, 07:17 AM
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I cast bullets for many years using the same equipment you will be getting. It always helps to 'warm' up the molds by casting a few bullets. Bullets from 'cold' are usually deformed. I only used wheel weights and to a 20 pound pot I would add one pound of lead solder (the solder without the liquid flux in it). That would add a little extra hardness to the alloy for shooting 1300 fps rounds. Always cast in a well ventilated place, ie: not your basement workshop. I quit casting bullets when prices for lead bullets became affordable in 500 count containers.
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Old 10-17-2020, 10:57 PM
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You can check your wheel weights to see if they are zinc or lead with some side cutters. You can cut the lead weights but not the zinc. I check all of mine this way. Don’t need to cut into just put a nick in them.
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Old 10-17-2020, 11:59 PM
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If the price is right for you, do it!

Start looking for some sources to keep your lead supply up. I can almost bet you will want to upgrade your moulds over time. That's what I have done, started with some older Lyman's and Lee 2 cavities and now have some NOE, Arsenal and Lee 6 bangers. It's a natural progression in the hobby.

I would also advise taking the jump to Powder Coating. Find a cheap oven and you are good to go. My wife bought me a real inexpensive one for Christmas one year and then a digital one ce on sale, couldn't resist. Powder is cheap for how many bullets it can do.

There is something exciting about pouring your own and seeing them group well. The cost savings can be significant if you find a good source for more lead.

Good luck.

Last edited by Huskerguy; 10-18-2020 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 10-18-2020, 03:52 PM
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WHAT IS THE ASKING PRICE?

You have been given a couple ballpark estimates...

Nobody here is going to try to get involved and squash your deal: we all (probably?) would just like to know...

Cheers!
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:07 PM
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Sorry, it’s $500. I did the deal. I won’t pick it all up for a few weeks , but it’s not going any where. Though it comes with a lot of lead, I have been buying some here and there the last few weeks. For bullets, I was paying over $100 for 1K 240 grain 44 mags. That 34 lbs. I bought some wheel weights for .25 a pound. So that’s roughly $8.50 for 1k 44 mags minus labor and lube of course. That’s what kinda got me started on this path.
Thanks for all the tips, pointers, and responses.
David
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:17 PM
STORMINORMAN STORMINORMAN is offline
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Great deal! Hope you enjoy casting and your reloading hobbies!

Cheers!
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:41 PM
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Hey, 68 Dave,, you mentioned powder coat in the first post of this thread,,
On the Lee sight, I ran into something that stumped me.

Lee says,, DO NOT size bullets with out lube,, it will cause the sizer to "lead".

I too am interested in powder,
I wonder how you size the bullets, then paint them, without lube.

Surely, lube would stop the powder from sticking,,

Do you have to lube the bullets, then degrease, before powder coat?

Or, something else?
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:50 PM
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As I understand it , the Lee sizer likes a smidge of lube on the bullets prior to sizing. The tool I’ve purchased will lube and size at the same time.
Haven’t gotten to the powder coating yet, but have been told that the coating likes very clean bullets, and they get sized after coating them.
So that brings me to a question. Can I size powder coated bullets with just a little lube in a lubersizer?
Thanks,
David
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 68Dave View Post
So that brings me to a question. Can I size powder coated bullets with just a little lube in a lubersizer?
Thanks,
David
I would think the paint would act like a "LUBE",,
surely, it will not smear like lead,,,
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Old 10-18-2020, 09:10 PM
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For me it was a matter of economics vs bother. I could reload, using purchased bullets, very quickly and save a lot of money. I decided to try casting - I saved a lot more money but the "bother factor" was much higher. It was very slow, with a lot of steps and I really didn't enjoy it.
Curiously enough the longer I reload the more I like it and I've even gotten into bench rest shooting and reloading with it's innumerable steps, but I'm not gong to get back into casting.
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Old 10-19-2020, 12:08 AM
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Should you get into it?

YESSSSSS!

Is is so much fun and a world to discover.
Shooting,reloading and bullet casting;three hobbies complementing each other.
Now try to find a guy who makes his own golf clubs!
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:47 AM
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I cast mostly for handguns but some rifle. Used to shoot in competition with The Cast Bullet Association matches. With all the stuff you have you'd be crazy not to. I find it a fascinating hobby. You can make it as simple or as involved as you want.
And you'll always have ammo. Just don't forget to buy powder and primers.
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:33 PM
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I started casting about 50 yrs ago ( I am 71) and had more led sources than I new what to do with. First I would melt it down in a plumbers furnace and pour it into the Lyman 1lb molds that way you are getting out all the junk and makes it WAY easier when you cast. I have cast for .44, 9mm, .38. .357and at one time had over 30,000 different bullets cast. I sold off a ton yes 2,000lbs of it and still had more left then I new what to with. I still have about 15,000 rds that I will never use. It has been a lot of fun knowing you are shooting for about .02 per round knowing you cast the bullets yourself. You can load them down so that my mod. 60 shoots like it was a .32 and anyone can enjoy it when there is just about no recoil and if you figure it out you can shoot for about a hour for under $3.00. Sad to say there is a time when you say maybe I should get red of the some of this stuff. when you still have ammo cans full of cast bullets, and not the time to enjoy shooting them up. David
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Old 10-29-2020, 10:49 PM
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I've been hand loading 40 years and casting only 10. What took me so long? I cast 38, 41, 44, 308, 264, 243,.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD VENTILATION. I use a 20" breeze box outside, cold weather or not. Lead is not good for the bone marrow where the red blood cells are made.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:03 AM
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I've been casting on & off for 45y. I enjoy the process & it saves me a lot of money on bullets. I wouldnt do it if I paid more than $1/# for alloy though. That would cost me $22/1000 powder coated 9mm. Fortunately I scrounge most of my alloy free. For me the autonomy of making all my own handgun bullets & even some rifle bullets is priceless.
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Old 11-02-2020, 12:02 AM
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Been loading & casting for years, can't ever remember shooting factory loads in my pistols & revolvers. You've gotten some great advise here. It's a whole new learning experience, so be patient. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is your Bible.

Also join the Cast Bullet Association website; Cast Bullet Association Forum

And the Cast Boolet website;
Cast Boolits

Great people on both sites willing to share their experiences.

Good luck.
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Old 11-04-2020, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jake1945 View Post
I cast bullets for many years using the same equipment you will be getting. It always helps to 'warm' up the molds by casting a few bullets. Bullets from 'cold' are usually deformed. I only used wheel weights and to a 20 pound pot I would add one pound of lead solder (the solder without the liquid flux in it). That would add a little extra hardness to the alloy for shooting 1300 fps rounds. Always cast in a well ventilated place, ie: not your basement workshop. I quit casting bullets when prices for lead bullets became affordable in 500 count containers.
The Ingots to Targets manual had a very good idea on warming up the mold; since the sprue cutter takes the longest to heat up, they recommended putting the mold upside down (sprue cutter down) on the mold. I tried that suggestion on Saturday and it worked like a charm.
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Old 11-04-2020, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetMK View Post
I have a guy I go to for tires, and some repairs,,
I asked if he would sell me one of the buckets of wheel weights he had by the tire machine,,

He told me to bring a bucket,, I went to Lowes and got a blue bucket,,

Well I returned, he said back your truck over here,,
We lifted one of the full buckets on the back of my truck,
it has to weigh 200 pounds, easily,,

He refused ANY money, I even offered to buy lunch,, NOPE,,

I think he saves the weights as trading fodder for his regular tire customers,,
Other tire stores said they had a waiting list for the weights,, to "BUY" them.

Now, I gotta sort out the zinc, and steel weights,, I watched a video on how to sort,,,

If there are many zinc weights, I will make a hanging weight for my tractor, similar to the 42 pound iron weights I use.
If you get 60# out of that bucket I would be surprised. I stopped chasing the lead ww years ago, far too many steel & zinc & work. Berm mining is my best scrap source. If you just take the lead bullets, like 98% useable alloy. Still, if it were free & you have time, why not.
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Old 11-04-2020, 02:35 PM
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Looks like a good way to start casting. Lots of books to read, but the Lyman cast bullet handbook is plenty good. I didn't use a heater on My sizers for a couple of decades. Wish I had. Got a Lyman and wish it was around 30 years ago. Get one, You won't regret it.
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Old 11-04-2020, 03:01 PM
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Did it for a long time,
Mostly 38-357 and 44s.
I found bullet casting to be a very fun and satisfying activity
When I did it, I was zoned in.
Family knew do not disturb the Big Guy when he’s casting unless the house is on fire!
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Old 11-06-2020, 03:39 PM
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I've been casting my own bullets for 48 years and I see no reason to buy jacketed bullets for any of my guns. That includes rifles, revolvers, pistols!
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Old 11-06-2020, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruger 1,3 View Post
I've been casting my own bullets for 48 years and I see no reason to buy jacketed bullets for any of my guns. That includes rifles, revolvers, pistols!
One big advantage to the .30-40 cartridge is that you can easily load heavy cast bullets (200 -220 grains) to the same velocities (at or beyond 2,000 fps) as jacketed bullets of the same weight and get good accuracy if your cast bullet skills are least a little past beginner level. And, if you've got ideal bullet fit, you can cast a relatively soft bullet that will expand and not lead the bore. Of course, bullet expansion is a must for a hunting bullet.
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