Novice Reloader Looking for Some Data

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Hello all,
As stated, I'm somewhat new to reloading. I've been researching to load up some 357 and 38 Special with components I have on hand, however, a limited library of loading manuals, and conflicting internet info is making me kinda crazy, so I thought I'd enlist some advice from the forum and see if anyone has some recommendations on some loads that might work for me. Mostly I'll just be paper punching with a 15-2 and 19-2, but don't mind at all some full power stuff for my 686's. Here's what I have:

MBC 158gr 357 Action 18bhn
H110 and HP38 powders
Mostly CCI 500 Sm Pistol and some CCI 550 Sm Pistol Magnum
A lot of cases, sorted.

I've never loaded cast bullets and some of the conflicting info I find seems to be with that using H110 with these bullets will/may/won't cause leading, or that you need to use a gas check. Or they're too hard for moderate 38 velocities causing flame cutting, (I think it was flame cutting, been on too damn many sites).
I may be over thinking all of this due to my level of ability but any info or direction is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
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I love H110, but not with a plain base lead bullet.

H110 (also known as W296) is an intense, hot burning powder that is ONLY suitable for FULL Power loads. Get yourself some nice JHPs of if you want to stick with lead, they need to have a gas check. Do not reduce loads with H110/W296

Your 158s and HP38 (also known as W231) is a great combination for the 357 Magnum. I load it with 5 grains for nice midrange performance. I have been shooting this load for 4 decades so far. You could load as hot a 7 grains, but there is no advantage to driving that lead projectile that fast.

I actually love the H110 with a Winchester 125 grain Winchester JHP in my magnums
 
Stick with the info of the reloading manuals, I mostly use the newer Lyman or Lee manuals. There will be some differences but they will be safe loads. Another sure bet is to look at some of the powder company web sights. some inter-net loads can get you in trouble. Remember start low and work up. as said above H110/296 work best with full powder loads with magnum primers are best for jacketed bullets. I use Unique and W231 for lead bullets with CCI 500 standard primers...
 
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Thanks for the info colt_saa & max. I think some of my confusion may be that the bullets make note of "being optimized for magnum velocities", making me think H110 would be the way to go. I did just find some data from Lyman for 158 gr lead using H110. No mention of gas checks there but they do indicate (Linotype) at the bullet description. I assume this would be considerably softer than 18bhn, eliminating the need for GC's?
 
For plinking/target, HP-38 and standard primers all the way! For this just stick with 38 special cases.

Try 3.7 grains WW231/HP-38 with the 158 with coal 1.47" for about 835fps in 4" 38. This has worked well for me for 40 years. (this load has a high enough pressure to be clean burning in most guns) You can reduce all the way down to 3.1 grains for less velocity/recoil, but they do get sooty! This load (3.7) is manageable and accurate in snub nose revolvers too!

Ivan
 
Thanks for the info colt_saa & max. I think some of my confusion may be that the bullets make note of "being optimized for magnum velocities", making me think H110 would be the way to go. I did just find some data from Lyman for 158 gr lead using H110. No mention of gas checks there but they do indicate (Linotype) at the bullet description. I assume this would be considerably softer than 18bhn, eliminating the need for GC's?

Linotype is far HARDER than the lead alloys I usually use for .38.
The ideal for HP38 loads in .38 would be a relatively soft alloy of 5% tin and pure lead. The quick and dirty test is cast any lead you can stick your thumbnail in with a 158gr mold, load over 3.7 to 4gr of HP38 and go shoot.
Loading lead with H110 is possible, but more complicated than HP38 in .38. You need a special bullet mold for gas checks; can't add to just any bullet. Fit is critical with very hard bullets.
 
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If shooting lead.....

........you need a Lyman Manual. They have tons of lead info as well as jacketed.

Good info can also be found on the powder companies website. Alliant, Accurate and Hodgdon. Hodgdon covers IMR, Winchester and Hodgdon.

Whatever the published info says, start low and work your way up. I realize that some is EXTREMELY conflicting.
 
I think it's around 22 br.

Linotype is far HARDER than the lead alloys you can use for .38.
The ideal for HP38 loads in .38 would be a relatively soft alloy of 5% tin and pure lead. The quick and dirty test is cast any lead you can stick your thumbnail in with a 158gr mold, load over 3.7 to 4gr of HP38 and go shoot.
Loading lead with H110 is possible, but more complicated than HP38 in .38.

The Lyman manual has loads for all kinds of hardness including linotype.
 
Thanks for the info colt_saa & max. I think some of my confusion may be that the bullets make note of "being optimized for magnum velocities", making me think H110 would be the way to go. I did just find some data from Lyman for 158 gr lead using H110. No mention of gas checks there but they do indicate (Linotype) at the bullet description. I assume this would be considerably softer than 18bhn, eliminating the need for GC's?

First and foremost, be extremely careful when loading magnums for a SAA!

Not all cast bullets will accept a gas check. When you look in your Lyman Cast Bullet manual, you will see illustrations of bullets with flat bases and stepped bases. Only the stepped base bullets can be used with a gas check!
 
Stick with the info of the reloading manuals, I mostly use the newer Lyman or Lee manuals. There will be some differences but they will be safe loads. Another sure bet is to look at some of the powder company web sights. some inter-net loads can get you in trouble. Remember start low and work up. as said above H110/296 work best with full powder loads with magnum primers are best for jacketed bullets. I use Unique and W231 for lead bullets with CCI 500 standard primers...

Best advice. Stick with the books at least until you can easily determine who knows what he's talking about on the Internet. Some do, some don't but it's hard for a beginner to know the difference. Use published data from reputable sources only; again paper books or websites of powder or bullet companies, not individuals.

Regarding 296 / H110: terrific muzzle blast and flash, but some like that. #2400 works just as well and will make loads equally accurate but with a bit less unpleasantness.
 
Leading is going to be a product of bullet fit & decent lube. H110 is pretty much full power powder, so it will require a good bullet fit. Measure your cyl throats, if the bullets are 0.358" & can just be pushed thru each, you might be fine on leading.
 
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Kind of reading between the lines it seems like you have some 110 and are trying to figure out a way to use it. Don't. Its really not a suitable powder for what you are doing. The HP38 is great, experiment with that to find a load that you like. Also consider some other powders that are commonly used for your rounds.
 
Linotype is far HARDER than the lead alloys you can use for .38.
The ideal for HP38 loads in .38 would be a relatively soft alloy of 5% tin and pure lead. The quick and dirty test is cast any lead you can stick your thumbnail in with a 158gr mold, load over 3.7 to 4gr of HP38 and go shoot.
Loading lead with H110 is possible, but more complicated than HP38 in .38.

Sort of. Back in the days of cheap lino, Its about all I shot in low pressure 38 & 45, works fine, the bullets just have to fit.
 
Locate some JHP bullets for your Models 19 & 686: you'll be much happier loading them with the H110. Hodgdons has loads from mild to WILD! for weights from 110 to 180gr.

Enjoy!
 
I don't have a lot of experience with the .357 Mag. I shoot mostly target velocity .38 Sp cast bullets.

However I have loaded mountains of .44 Mag .45 Colt and .454 Casull using hard cast bullets and H110/W296.

I've pushed them hard without any leading issues.

As long as the cast bullets are hard enough and .358 sized I wouldn't hesitate to use the cast bullets with H110 in a 357 magnum load.

As others have stated, don't try reducing your charge with H110/W296.

I may load some later today, then report back.
 
Some good advice above for staying out of trouble.

I would add that the easiest way to proceed with possible leading is to shot it in your gun. There are lots of leading variables the guys have laid out and lots of tests to help estimate what's about to happen. Or you can shoot one to find out.

I've been shocked many times expecting leading from high velocity, softer bullets, that weren't sized correctly, that had bevel bases; through a gun with no consistency in cylinder diameters, and groove diameters not matching cylinders or bullets.
Everything seemed off and the leading never happened.

Leading has hundreds of threads and thousands of posts. I always test for leading before going down that road.

Nowadays, I powder coat (PC) and my concerns have evaporated.


Prescut
 
If you can't find or fit one in your budget a Lyman manual (50th or Cast Bullet Handbook) you should be able to find one in your local library...

My most used reloading manual is the Lyman series, 50th and #3 Cast Bullet handbooks.All my initial cast load data comes from these two...
 

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