I am low on 357 and have 250 Berry's plated bullets. I don't even recall where I got them, but I am thinking about loading them up. I use a roll crimp and am concerned about how to crimp them properly. Anyone have any experience with them? I know you can't use a heavy crimp or you may compromise the plating and lose accuracy. Any recommendations ? Using a Lee crimping die. BTW I am a novice re-loader meaning just a few thousand 357 and 44 mag to date.

If they have a "Can" on them, use a light crimp.

Most "Plated" bullets will not be happy with a heavy crimp if the grove is not deep like a lead bullet, since it will damage the bullet's cylinder wall.

Some just use a taper crimp to hold the bullet in the case and call it a day.

I like those bullets in a 9 mm but have yet to use them in a 38 or my .357.

Carry on.

I use a taper crimp for 9mm and 45 ACP. For 357 and 44 mag I use a slight roll crimp. I use Berrys and X-treme bullets and the 357 mag is loaded to 38 +P velocities. 44 mag is loaded to 44 special levels. Minimal recoil.

Berry bullets are fine and a light crimp should work. I use a Lee FCD but do not put a hard crimp in them. Crimp a practice round lightly them take it apart and I think you will see a line where the crimp was. I have never had a problem with them with ay crimp I have used on them.

I use a lot of Berry’s in several calibers and profiles. I only use a taper crimp and then I’m careful not to over do it. The copper jacket is so soft that it’s really easy to damage that copper coating.

After doing what I felt was minimal crimp, I pulled a couple of bullets and discovered a deep groove in the copper that indicated excessive crimp. It’s my understanding there should be no more than a very faint line in the bullet where the the crimp is.

Actually for best Informaion I’d call or email Berry’s for advice.

I use Berry's 148 gr Plated HBWCs in 38 Sp. I put a light taper crimp on them. Never had one back out, and accuracy is on par with my powder coated WC bullets. Have not shot them in .357.

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What could possibly go wrong?

I am not even sure if they have a can on them. I am thinking they don't. Looked them up and found a you tube vid. Shows that there should only be to a slight ghosting of where the crimp was. I will crimp a couple of dummies and see what I can do. I prefer a roll on .357, but they say not to load over 1150 fps so a taper would probably work. I am not going to load them to hot. Honestly I will load the XTP's to full 357 and these more than likely to 38 plus p for the range.

I've loaded both Berrys and Xtreme plated with a moderate roll crimp, enough to create a ring-shaped indention around the bullet. Kind of made my own cannelure. It never cracked the plating, and never created any accuracy issues. If you think about it logically, most bullets for this caliber have a deep, wide lube groove or two AND a cannelure groove. They don't create accuracy problems, so how can it hurt to create a tiny depression ring around the bullet with the crimp?

Of course I don't load them really hot either. Keep in mind that the copper is applied by an electroplating proces, so it is bonded to the lead at the molecular level. If you want to test how well the copper is bonded to the lead, smash one with a hammer or in a vice. You'll see that it doesn't come loose or peal easily at all.

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

I have loaded LOTS of Berry's over a few years. Mostly 9mm thick plated. Also a fair number of .357 revolver and .45 acp. I use a taper crimp generally except for the 148 WC where I roll the crimp over the top of the bullet a bit. As long as you are not shoving them out too fast a decent taper crimp will hold just fine. They do make a .357 158 gn with a groove in it, but I believe it is of recent origin so you probably don't have that.

I use Berry’s
.357 125s and 158s
.429 240s
.452 230 RN
.500

I’m fact, tonight I loaded .45 Colt with Tite Group and 230 RN

Ive recently found Berry’s and Cabelas, Bass Pro and Sportsman’s Warehouse

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213th FBINA

I just tested 125gr .357 Berry`s plated bullets today.
I used a very slight roll crimp and a light taper crimp. No obvious deformation. They shot really well, nice clean holes, and chronographed an average velocity of 1182 fps through my 4" 686,with a very low average deviation.
Would never have tried them but XTP`s and Sierra 125`s are not available.
Im very satisfied with the Berry`s .125s.
Just keep them below 1250 fps.
Jim

Just curious... Has anyone fired benchrested groups with these or other plated bullets? I tried some plated .38 Special wadcutters of unknown make some years back. Accuracy was horrible in comparison with my own cast bullets and I haven't used any since, but I would guess plated bullets have improved since then.

I've reloaded and shot both Berrys & Xtremes in .380, 9mm, .357 SIG, 38 Special, .357 Mag, 40 S&W, 45 acp, 45 Colt, 44 Special & Mag without experiencing any real crimp-related issues...

These were all at "reasonable velocities": under 1,200 fps for the "regular" ones and well under 1,500 fps for the "high test" (a.k.a. heavy plate) varieties.

The real key to a good crimp, whether a taper or true roll crimp, is IMHO the proper expansion of the case prior to seating the bullet. This is, of course, highly dependant upon the bullet design and construction. Plated vs. Lead vs. Coated vs. FMJ, a cannelure (or not) all make a difference, as does the actual die used for the expansion (flare or belling, as you prefer) making a difference as well. The application of the crimp itself (if done with the seating die or with a dedicated crimp die, i.e., a LEE FCD or a collet-style die) can make a big difference as well, but...

Again, IMHO it is improper (as in OVER-)expansion of the case that typically causes the most serious problems. In many (if not MOST?) loads the case tension alone should provide the majority of the "grip" on the bullet, the Magnum calibers loaded HOT being an obvious exception. Images of cases with obvious belling (somebody once asked if someone was "making trumpets?") require so much or a taper crimp to remove it is a wonder they will chamber at all, or, in the case (OK, in the "instance") of calibers that index on the case mouth, whether reliable and consistant primer strikes can even be expected...?

Shaving of lead, coating or even copper from jackets and plated bullets clearly indicates insufficient expansion, and can result in poor performance, but bullets that drop halfway into a funnel cause problems as well.

This all has more to do with achieving consistant reliability and accuracy vs. just making ammunition that goes BANG! Proper expansion is not always easy to tie down but is well worth the time (and sometimes the frustration) that is necessary to insure.

Cheers!

I learned the hard way, years ago, when I over "Belled" a case for the bullets, that..................

the #3 die that seats the bullet, would not swallow the 38 special cases, that I belled for a loading.

Just glad that I only had ten test loads, that I had to toss into the garbage can.
I got to save the powder but lost the cases and primers.

Ah, yes.
The fun of reloading comes in many strange ways.

Light taper crimp on normal or light loads. Heavy loads, get another bullet.

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Foster Positivity.

Taper crimp here for me on Berry's bullets. I'll check the last round in a cylinder, and if it's backed out I'll either back down the load or maybe give it a really light roll crimp. As joe44va said above, if you need more, get another bullet.

What he said ^^.
I use a taper crimp for all non-cannelure bullets.
Works well with the plated bullets in target loads.
The Lee FCD collet style will work too if kept light.

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NEMO
"Everything 44"