My new Thunder Ranch just came back from repair. Took them 93 days to repair it. Meanwhile I reloaded some .45 Auto Rim ammo for it's return. I fired the auto rim today and out of 80 rounds 4 had light strikes on the primer. I do tend to seat my primers slightly below even, but never before had 4 out of 80 in the same gun fail to fire because of light strikes. I did attempt to fire them several times and no change at all. It seems really strange. I guess 4 out of 80 is not a lot, but it's hard to figure. It shot 54 acp 45 rounds in moon clips just fine. All the other .45 auto rims had really good hits on the primers. It went out for repair because when the cylinder was in a certain place the gun would not cock, or fire in double action. They said they replaced a part.

Attached Images

45SS.jpg (84.6 KB, 92 views)

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!

Just received some new brass AuroRim cases I'm getting ready to prime. Since they have a rim (effectively making them revolver cases and making OAL and crimp issues pretty moot) the only way I can see a light strike problem occuring is by one setting the primers too deep?

Unless there was something misaligned during the repair the cases should be well presented by the cylinder for the firing pin. Were they all in the same chamber in the cylinder?

P.S. The next morning I went to prime these new Starline cases: using a Hornady hand primer, the RCBS #8 shell holder and Remington Large Pistol Primers. I did notice that the primers "seemed" to be seated a little deeper (as in "not exactly flush") with the base of the case. I only primed a dozen for my next test loads, and guess I will soon have an opportunity to check for light strikes? Have some earlier AutoRim reloads to compare, but I'm not sure they were not Winchester LPPs.

Another possibility is the rims are inconsistent. Measure some that worked and some that didn't. Thousandth do matter!

Ivan

I have a brand new 325, had to get a longer mainspring screw to get mine to fire hand loads and new Winchester white box. The factory screw was too short when screwed all the way in.

I watched a You Tube video of a guy who put a custom spring in his S&W revolver and the light strikes did not go away and he then put a longer screw in place of the original and solved the problem. I checked the screw on mine and it turned about 1/4 turn to tight. I'm putting in a picture of the light strikes and some that fired. I sent an email to Smith and Wesson. I will see what they have to say in 5-10 days. Usually they don't like to talk to a problem that concerns reloaded rounds. They don't recommend using reloads, or at least they aren't supposed to recommend reloads.

Attached Images

strikes.jpg (104.4 KB, 71 views)

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!

I ordered a new longer firing pin. It is .500 longer and made from better steel, so they say. It was about $24.00 with shipping and I am anxious to put it in and try it. I believe the spring they give you is slightly weaker also.

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!

If it is really ".500 longer" there's probably going to be a problem...?

Primer seated below flush is fairly normal. Should be maybe 0.005 in. A couple of years ago I bought some strain screws and was surprised in the variation of length. Might be a QC problem from whoever makes the screws.

That longer pin will probably solve your problem.......

__________________
dd884
JMHO-YMMV

Check it with the old fired primer under the tip of the strain screw trick...

Randy

I had a 325 for a short time that was completely unreliable (not to mention brutal to shoot).

First I installed fresh stock weight springs - no change.

I tried the primer under the strain screw - no change.

Initially I tried the Apex extended firing pin, which had almost no effect on reliability but did help a tiny bit.

I finally got it working reliably with stock springs and a C&S extended firing pin.

I then traded the gun off because I absolutely hated shooting it and because I prefer to run lighter than stock springs in my revolvers.

Anyway, after that, I started subbing in the C&S pin on every new revolver I bought before I even took it to the range. The only issue with this practice is the C&S pins will break if you dry fire them too much. The C&S pin in my 3" M629 was dry fired a couple hundred times at least before I learned about the issue, so they aren't that fragile, but it is a potential problem.

Frankly, I now avoid the new guns and tend to buy buy revolvers without the internal firing pin. I consider them less reliable than the hammer mounted firing pin.

Good luck!

I've never broken any of my C&S extended firing pins.

All my frame firing pin revolvers are life stakingly reliable.

A 325 that's brutal?

Thanks for the heads up.

.

The OP posted this same question in the 1980 to Present Revolver Section also.

.



.
.



.

__________________
Waiting for the break of day

I am sure that is the total length of the new pin. Not sure what the stock pin length is. The company I ordered it from only gave the specs of the one I am buying.

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!

Hope it solves any probleme you may have!

Cheers!

Take a spent lp primer and pull the anvil out and put it on the end of the strain screw.

WOW!!!
Looks like a brass issue to me. Some of those primers are seated just below flush and others are wwwwwaaaaayyyy deep.

It's very difficult to seat primers at a certain depth. At least with the seater I use. I read several places that primers should be seated below flush with the brass, no doubt not too low. It still think it is strange that only 4 out of 80 failed to fire and have very light strikes.

I received an answer from my email to S&W. They told me the problem is definitely the ammunition. Funny how if you tell a manufacturer you are having trouble shooting reloads, you are always the problem. Jerry Michalak shoots reloads, I saw a video of him doing it. But he knows what he is doing and I do not. But I understand it's a matter of not knowing my level of incomitance.

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!

Still waiting for the new firing pin. Took out the old one and it measures .489.
I believe the new one is .500 so hopefully that could solve the problem.

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!

Seat the primer fully to the bottom of the primer pocket.

If you don't the firing pin/hammer will try to do it on impact increasing the likelihood of misfires.

Seat the primer until it stops.

The extended firing pin will be added insurance for primer pocket variations.

.

__________________
Waiting for the break of day

This. Your primers should be fully seated, and firmly. When people give a depth a primer is seated to, it should be a minimum depth below the rim for safe operation.

Replaced the firing pin. Old one was .489, new was .510 I think, can't remember the measurement of the new one, but that's close. It works great now. Fired 21 .45 auto rim rounds and it punches a dent in that primer now every time. Been a long road since buying this gun to having it repaired, then it worked fine with .45 auto and also works with something it was "accidently" manufactured to shoot, the .45 auto rim. It maybe the last gun I buy. I am retiring soon and took an inventory and I have more than enough guns now. Plan on doing a lot more reloading and a lot more shooting.

__________________
Support the 2nd Amendment it is not negotiable!