Holy Cow. I just came off a thread where it was suggested I use a Wilson case gauge for my .223. I have one for my 30-06 and just used it to test reloaded rounds but that's NOT the PROPER use of them.

You have to get a depth gauge and determine the length of every FIRED case before loading. Then you have to adjust your full length sizing die to produce cases that fit within the min/max of the gauge. Before I've just adjusted the die to touch the shell holder and do a full size.

Pistol gauges are easy. Plunk and go, but this amount of work for bottleneck cartridges is a little off putting, especially for loading quantity like I use in an AR.

How do you guys use your gauges?

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I use mine to get my dies set up. First they get re-sized which is where the set up and final adjustment takes place.

Trimming to length, and then running through my Dillon 550. Then I use the gauge to check the final product.

Whether that is PROPER or not it works for me.

Please instruct me as to the Proper use of a case gauge is.....

Randy

Perfectionists are best ignored. The clean, resized case (no case lube) must drop into the case gauge. For a correctly resized case, the bottom of the case is flush with the bottom of the gauge. Depending on the make of case gauge, the case neck should not extend beyond the top of the gauge when the bottom is flush.

The easiest check, is use a dial caliper to measure the case length. Short cases will fit into a chamber, long cases +0.010" over max length maybe problematic.

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S&WHF 366

A while back I built an AR in 6mm Mongoose caliber, something of a PO Ackley'd wildcat version of a .223 case sized up to 6mm. There are no gauges, so I used a fireformed case to set the resizing die to its final adjustment. I measure a fired case with a Hornady head space comparator and adjust my die to bump back the shoulder .003-.004". The cases feed fine and the bolt closes with no resistance. If I set the die to touch the shell hold, it will bump the shoulder .008. That would cause excessive case stretch with each firing.

I also measure the head space for my .223 Rem 788 and found that .002 should bump will allow chambering with no bolt resistance. Better case/chamber fit and less case stretch.

Full-length resizing is good for making sure the resized case fits every chamber in that caliber; bump sizing is good for making sure your cases fit your chamber with less case wear and tear and better fit. You can make your choice on how to resize.

Well it's not too late for me to learn something.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I use a (JP Enterprise) case gauge only when handloading for ARs. Checking resized cases and loaded rounds in the gauge takes but a second and assures reliable functioning, including chambering and extraction. ARs and probably most or all semi-auto rifles don't have the camming strength of bolt-action rifles. Firing a cartridge with a minimal or improperly sized case that barely chambered in an AR often won't extract, but it may be no problem at all with a bolt-action. Whether this step is necessary with other semi-auto rifles, I don't know. The only semi-auto (non AR-type) rifle I've had didn't require it.

I've never found a case gauge a necessity or even desirable for bolt-action rifles or any handgun. Ammo for revolvers is easily checked for proper fit. With semi-auto pistols, remove the barrel and use that as a gauge.

With bolt-action and lever-action rifles, size brass only enough that a cartridge chambers reliably and with very slight resistance. You'll have to eventually do a full-length size, but you should get several loadings before this is necessary. Brass life will be better using this method. It's worked well for me for many years. Chambers are different and a gauge won't be of much help here.

...but the part about 'setting up the dies' is a bit involved. I don't doubt I'll have a better final product when I get this going, but it's more involved than I ever thought.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I prefer using the Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge, You measure a fired case and then set the die up for the proper amount of shoulder bump. You only need to buy this Hornady gauge for every caliber you have.



Below measuring a "fired" Lake City 5.56 case, I then set the resizing die for .003 shoulder bump.



I also use a JP Enterprise case gauge to check the case body diameter. I buy bulk once fired Lake City brass fired in a multitude of chambers. And the Hornady gauge and JP Enterprise gauge ensures the loaded cartridge will fit in any chamber.

NOTE, in a semi-auto the resized case body should be .003 to .005 smaller in diameter than its fired diameter. This allows the case to spring back from the chamber walls and extract reliably.

Below shows the JP Enterprise gauge is closer to minimum SAAMI dimensions.

Dillon .223 Case Gage vs JP Enterprises Case Gage

Fireforming! The process of forming a bottle necked brass to one chamber! If you use this process there is no need to check ANY dimensions except case length. I do this by setting my case trimmer to a given length and run all the brass for ONE rifle thru the trimmer. Those that are too long will be trimmed and those that are under length, by a small amount, won't be touched but ALL the brass will be under max length! This is the process used to form a wildcat cartridge. My wildcat is a 22 Hornet fired formed to a .224 Harvey K Chucker.

22 Hornet on the left - K Chucker reload on the right!

I lucked out! ! ! Cases formed in the K 22(gun on the left) will chamber in the 17-6(gun on the right)! I have not tried it the other way! ? !
jcelect

I'm familiar with fireforming after working with many wildcat cartridges for decades, but it's far from a practical process when loading lots of .223/.5.56 ammo for ARs. And I'm not a big fan of ARs.

I will cut one step in your die setting.

You can only adjust for minimum or maximum with a die, not both.

I agree with sizing the case as the #1 step (after cleaning & inspection )

then triming if the case is past the maximum length, per your guage, etc.

You should now be good to go for the primer & powder................ etc.