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  #51  
Old 09-08-2021, 08:25 PM
AlHunt AlHunt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STORMINORMAN View Post
Any bullet with a crimp groove was "most likely" originally designed to be loaded to the crimp groove... Was this a mold for 45 ACP or is it advertised for 45 Colt?

For revolvers, for the most part, OAL is more of a variable (will they fit in the cylinder?) vs. trying to get the same bullet to function well in a semi-automatic where chamber and magazine variations make feeding issues a bit trickier.

Cheers!

P.S. There is nothing I see in that bullet's profile that would lead me to believe there would be any feeding issues. The suggestion to run some through another 1911 is an excellent one.
The mold is something I traded into but I believe it's intended for 45ACP. It's a NOE mold.
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  #52  
Old 09-08-2021, 09:13 PM
AlHunt AlHunt is offline
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OK, guys ... life kept me away from the reloading bench for a while but it was worth it. I'm back to it.

[Executive Summary: Seating deeper to get the case mouth above the bearing surface, then running the finished round back through the sizing die gives me a round that passes the case gauge]

I came back to it today with fresh eyes, set everything I had done aside and started anew.

I grabbed a few cases, checked length, sized them and case gauged them. They all gauged.

I also had a factory round on the bench as a standard.

I grabbed some of my sized bullets and made a couple of dummy rounds. I took my OAL down to 1.200, trying to get above the bearing surface. I had measured the factory bullet just above the case mouth and it was below .451. Maybe .445? I succeeded in getting the cast bullet to about that diameter right above the case mouth.

Taper crimped. They would not drop all the way in. FCD'd. Would still not pass the cage gauge. Measurements up and down the dummy round and the factory round were ballpark close.

Attached are a few pics, probably out of order. The round with the primer is the factory round, the empty primer pocket sticking up is the dummy round.

So, I colored the offending round with a sharpie, dropped it back in and spun it. You can see the mark a bit below the case mouth. That area on the factory round is .4685 and the reload is .4720. I ran it back through the sizing die (with the decapping pin removed) and Voila! .4675 at the mark and it case gauges just fine.

I'm not sure I like having to run the finished rounds back into the sizing die. All I'm doing is swaging my bullets down.

But, I'll make up a few rounds and function check. If they function (and I think they will), I'll make up some to test for accuracy.

Thank you to all who have contributed to my little dilemma. I'll update this in a few days once I have time to test things out.

As a footnote, I have my eye peeled for a 180 to 230 grain mold.
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  #53  
Old 09-09-2021, 02:06 AM
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Have you tried a taper crimp die? I got one a while back and I really like it.......
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  #54  
Old 09-09-2021, 06:18 AM
AlHunt AlHunt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddixie884 View Post
Have you tried a taper crimp die? I got one a while back and I really like it.......
Do you mean something besides the one that came with my die set? I'm pretty sure the RCBS is a taper and I know the Lee FCD says it's a taper.
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  #55  
Old 09-23-2021, 07:07 PM
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So let me follow up with this and put a cap on the solution because don't we hate it when some nitwit starts a thread like this and never posts the fix? So, dear future reader with my exact problem, this post is for you.

As stated earlier, some barrels have no leade and one of them is mine (meaning the rifiling starts RIGHT at the chamber).

My powder coated bullets have flaws and lumps on some of the noses. Never a problem in numerous 9mm. But in this case, those little bumps were contacting the rifiling and causing some rounds to not go into battery.

I got my hands on some Lee TC-452-230 powder coated and some of the same in Hi-Tek. All nicely done with clean noses. A little smaller nose on these bullets. I was able to seat these into about 1.185 and they chambered and ran fine.

My 250 grain bullets are really a bit large, but I sorted some with clean noses and (see attached pic) cut a couple of small slots into a case and tinkered with it until the empty case would chamber and I could just start a bullet into it. The slots are to allow the bullet to move easily. Then I pushed it into the chamber until the case was flush with the barrel hood. Had to tap it out (like a squib). This gave me the max cartridge length to the lands of the rifiling, 1.242. I assembled another dummy round without the slots and started seating it. I really thought it would plunk test somewhere in the 12.30-ish range but had to get down to 1.205 before it would drop in and out of the chamber and give me that satisfying brass on steel sound when it bottoms out.

Which brings me to my last point - the case gauge is fine but doesn't have a barrel attached! All it tells you is that your CASE dimensions are in spec. The bullet can (and did) hit the lands causing a failure to go into battery. Use your barrel as a case gauge, as mentioned earlier in this thread.

The other solution, by the way, is to have someone ream the throat and the guy mentioned earlier in this thread is apparently the go-to guy for that. But, it's 60 to a hundred bucks and seemed (to me, anyway) that if the factory could build ammo that chambers, I should be able to as well. I'm happy I stuck with it.

So, I thank the numerous contributors to this thread. I never imagined, after the scads of 9mm I've loaded that 45ACP would be such a problem.
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  #56  
Old 09-24-2021, 07:57 AM
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Thanks for the follow up post. 1911 barrels often have little free bore because the bullet diameter and profile of the 230 grain FMJ bullet does not require much free bore when seated to the designed OAL. Things can get real "sticky" with bullets that have a shoulder or bullets that do not have an ogive that matches the dimensions of the 230 grain ball load.
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  #57  
Old 09-24-2021, 09:38 AM
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It could be that the mold was designed for 1917 revolvers or 45 Auto Rim. If you can get sure feeding it would be an awesome bullet but it looks iffy at this point.
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  #58  
Old 09-24-2021, 10:15 AM
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Easy method of finding max COL for your pistol with any given bullet.

With firing pin/striker retracted, insert cleaning rod into bore and let it rest against breech. Wrap a piece of tape around the rod where it exits the muzzle, as accurately as you can.

Now insert bullet of choice into chamber and point the muzzle straight down. Let the bullet slide into the lands, don't push or shake it down. Insert cleaning rod into bore until it gently touches the bullet. Wrap tape around rod at muzzle again. If you using a HP bullet, you will need to fill the HP or tape over it to keep the rod from entering the HP and giving a false reading.

Measure the distance between both upper or lower edges of the tapes--either will do. That will give you the max COL for that bullet to the lands. That does not mean the round will fit the mag or feed, but gives that COL Max with that bullet.

This works with rifles also.
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  #59  
Old 09-24-2021, 01:55 PM
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When loading larger weight bullets for pistols...........

The depth of the bullet being seated needs to be .......

1. less, than where it starts to bulge the center of the case or
2. short enough to where it does not hit the lands or
3. where it will pass a plunk test.

A bullet too long or fat from factory ammo, is not a good thing.
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  #60  
Old 09-24-2021, 08:44 PM
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It almost looks like he is using a bullet designed for a revolver. It looked he used a taper crimp into the crimp groove. If so, give up cause it will never work.
Storminnormin is right.
Update: I pulled up the mold drawing and it confirmed my suspicion - this is a bullet designed for a revolver. So it is not going fit the leade on most 1911 barrels.

Download the SAAMI spec for details: https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads...sting-Copy.pdf

Last edited by dla; 09-24-2021 at 08:58 PM.
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  #61  
Old 09-24-2021, 09:19 PM
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Some .45s have tighter chambers than others. Coated bullets have larger ogives than when they were uncoated as the coating covers the entire bullet and because of that are very sensitive to oal. Try a semi wadcutter profiled bullet. Either the round point short one or the squared point long one. They should work better for pc.
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  #62  
Old 09-24-2021, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crstrode View Post
If the cartridge does not fit,
You must size it a bit.

Indeed! ........


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  #63  
Old 09-24-2021, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scattershot View Post
Seating the bullet deeper may solve your problem.
It could also make it worse. The case walls are tapered, thinner at the mouth and considerably thicker at the web and case head.

I'm thinking the basic problem is the 250-grain bullet, necessarily longer than anything considered "standard" in .45ACP, when seated to OAL that will function in the magazine and feed into the chamber the OP might be dealing with a bulged case well behind the case mouth area that could resist chambering fully.

If that is the case there are two possible solutions. One would be having the chamber reamed to provide additional clearance. The other would be inside neck reaming of the cases to allow deeper seating without bulging the case walls.
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  #64  
Old 09-24-2021, 10:55 PM
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Agree the problem is a throat that is too short. Bullet ogive engages barrel rifling so cartridge can not fully seat.
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  #65  
Old 09-24-2021, 11:21 PM
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A 250 gr bullet is too much bullet in a 1911. I use 255 gr in my .45 colt cas guns. As the 1911 pistol and it’s ammo was designed by JMB a jacketed or plain lead 230 gr rn is the correct bullet. However imo a 200 gr is a better bullet, it generates less recoil, does not seat as far into the case which can cause bulges and chambering issues and each bullet weighs less so they should be less expensive. A heavier bullet would work fine in a revolver if you don’t mind the recoil.
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  #66  
Old Yesterday, 11:52 AM
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Here is the "plunk test":

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...1Headspace.png

A cast bullet .45 ACP round should be flush with the barrel hood of the exact same 1911 barrel when "plunked".

FWIW
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