38/357 idea

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mikerjf

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I load both 38Sp and 357, and I know some people use a .135" spacer under their die to "adjust" from 38 to 357. But this still means removing your die to install the spacer.

Had an idea. What about a pair of shell holders, one made for 38 and one for 357. The 38 holder holds the case .135" higher (relative to the 357 holder).

This would let you keep dies set in a turret, without having to swap a spacer ring in for changing from 38's to 357's.
 
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.38 / .357 Die Spacer Ring

carelesslove, here !

I have one of those spacer rings and have never even thought about using it!

I have so many things like that that my kids would probably appreciate me selling off / getting rid of, now - rather than later...............
 
You still have to set the die to meet the shell holder for decapping and sizing, and for seating depth of the bullet. If the .38 Spl. shell holder is taller, the die needs to be raised in order for the throw to bottom out. I think it might be less trouble to buy a second set of dies and adjust one for .357 and the other for .38 Spl.

I keep one of each finished cartridges on a shelf for both of my dual-caliber die sets (I also load .40S&W, and 10mm, which use the same die set). When I change from one to the other for seating, I place the finished cartridge in the die and adjust it to that length. Saves a little time, since my OAL's don't vary in a particular caliber. De-priming and sizing is an easier adjustment, so I just readjust the dies based on bottoming the plunger against the shell holder.
 
I have multiples for 38/357, 45 Colt/454 Casull etc.

I have really too many die sets. Multiples of several rifle and handgun dies. Some are used progressive, others turret or single stage for load development or small run specialty loadings.

I have a few other lower volume calibers, 10mm/40 that I simply readjust.

I use Lee powder through case expansion and leave either an Auto Disk or Auto Drum measure attached to my most used. I've been using the Auto Disk for decades, but the Auto Drum is great for higher capacity cases like the Casull.
 
I just put either .38 Special dies or .357 dies in the old Pacific press or the Lee classic turret and don't worry about it.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
I reload frequently so I just bought two sets of dies. One setup for my 357, one for 38. Run a lee turret so its easy change out.
 
tominboise said:
I just bought separate die sets for every cartridge I own. Makes life easier.
Click to expand...

That is what I have done also. I reload on a Bonanza Co-Ax so that spacer trick doesn’t work.
It might cost a little more now, but used dies on eBay or at a gun show used to be affordable.
 
The spacer should be cheaper and easier to manufacture than an extended shell holder .

Two shell holders or 1 shell holder and one spacer ...better ?

Backing out a die to slide spacer under or changing a shell holder .

I kind of see it as six of one - half-dozen of the other... No clear winner here .

When I use a spacer I just raise the die and slide the spacer under as far as it will go and tighten down on the die ... you don'y have to totally unscrew the die to use the spacer .

I like one spacer and one shell holder !
Gary
 
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It is easy to keep a dummy cartridge to set the crimp and expander die gets set with the first cartridge.
 
I use spacer washers for 44 spl / 44 magnum, .40 / 10mm, and .38 / .357. Works fine, especially since I use the same bullets in each variant.
 
I guess everyone else is happy, so no one is going to make one for just me!

Thought of the need for going all the way to the die during sizing... you could set the sizing die to touch the 38 shell holder, and size 357's there as well. Move to the 357 shell holder for flaring and crimping 357's.

Ah well. Good thing John Browning didn't bounce his new ideas off you guys. ;)
 
You, Sir, are no John Browning.

Hahaha please take that in the playful way that it was intended. :D
 
A 38 spl die set works for 357 as well. The only adjustment needed is the bullet seating / crimping die. All the other dies need only be set once.

In my case I load both calibers, but use several different type boolits for each. Thus, every time I load I have to readjust that single die.

Some are making this more complicated than it has to be.
 
There is another shortcut that I have not seen mentioned and it feeds the “easier with more options” camp and also the “man, I’m cheap!” camp. (I’m in both camps :D)

At gun shows and on the dusty shelf of small independent gun shops are often the old, used, unloved die sets. And many of these are difficult to sell because they are not carbide dies. But the small detail that may not be obvious is that a “carbide die set” is a misnomer as only the sizing die is different.

The size die that you are already using at your bench is perfect for both .38 & .357 (and .40/10mm, .44 Spl/Mag, and many more) so if you buy an old un-loved steel set that they almost cannot sell, you are getting the two dies you need to set and keep set for .357 while you use your original carbide set for .38 Special.

My happy number is $10. I’ll buy an old steel die set for $10 and the steel size die that requires lube even on a straight wall handgun cartridge never leaves the box or could be tossed in the trash if you like.

The net result is a perfectly functional flare die and a seat/crimp die for $5 each.
 
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