LED Light for Dillon RL550 Press

oldvette · #1 12-07-2021, 05:05 PM

Here is a description of my project to construct an LED lighting system for my Dillon 550 loader. The final cost to me was $0.00 because I hade most/all the parts available in my electronic junque parts boxes normally used for my ham radio/electronics hobby.

I needed to present this using 2 separate threads because I used more than 5 pictures.

Picture 1 shows the total complement of parts I assembled. Not described below are the two pieces of heat shrink tubing - a 1/2" and 1/4" piece - needed to protect the electrical connections and provide a little friction fit inside the holder.

The 2nd picture highlights the surplus "wall wart' power supply needed to power the light. The supply I had is way over the actual needed current capacity, and actually any power supply rated with the voltage of the LED bulb will work.

The 3rd picture is that of the nylon bushing used in the Dillon 550/650 etc. powder measure - I had an extra, used powder bushing obtained from a purchase of used eBay parts years ago. The bushing fits perfectly into the tool head's center hole as used by the commercially available after market LED lights costing $20-$30 (which gave me the idea for this project).

The 4th picture is an unused bayonet base pilot light holder normally found in a vintage radio set from the '50's or '60's. This particular model would have been held in place in the radio using a rubber grommet sized to the bulb to illuminate the dial of the radio.

The 5th picture is the actual 4-LED bulb used for illumination. I use these in my ham radio equipment restorations as replacements for incandescent dial and metering lights with the bayonet bases such as #47, #45 and #43 incandescent BA9 bulbs. I source these from SuperBrightLeds.com in quantities of 10 each depending upon the voltage I most recently ran out of, such as 6 volts or 12 volts. Net cost for the bulb used here is $1.98 in single quantities. The supplier's stock number for the 12 volt bulb is :

BA9S-W4-90-12VAC cool white 90 degree 12V

and will work using AC or DC interchangeably.

See part 2 for the rest of the story.

oldvette · #2 12-07-2021, 05:05 PM

Picture 6 shows the soldered and completed bulb/socket assembly with the heat shrink tubing installed. This represents the only "real work" needed to construct the project. Simply cut off and scrap any circular miniature plug off the end of the wire from the wall wart, strip 1/4" insulation from each wire, place a 1" piece of 1/4" heat shrink over each wire conductor, then carefully solder each wire end to one of the terminals of the holder WITHOUT overheating the wire, which would cause the heat shrink tubing to shrink prematurely - polarity is unimportant. Bend each terminal up 90 degrees close to the body of the bayonet base holder using a suitable pair of pliers - I use a medium sized needle nose pliers. Push the two 1/4" heat shrink tubing pieces over the soldered terminals you just bent upward, then, using a heat gun or hair dryer, or in a pinch - a match - set the tubing which should form-fit to the terminals and wires. Place the 1/2" tubing over the base and cover the wires/terminals just shrunk with the 1/4" tubing. Shrink that tubing with a small margin of metal base showing and back to cover the terminal connections - this will provide good mechanical strength and a semblance of strain relief to the wires and connections.

Picture 7 represents the completed assembly ready to install in the 550. Before installing the bulb, place the bulb holder into the bushing, and when it bottoms out, simply orient the bulb base, push inward on the bulb from the open end and give it a slight twist.

Test the light by plugging in the wall wart, then simply drop it into the hole after pushing the bulb in as far as it will go. The bushing will flush fit to the bottom of the tool head, and any bulb set slightly outside the bushing will be pushed up gently by the ram without damage.

Restrain the power cord using blue tape to the rear of the press to keep it somewhat dressed. Only use green tape if you are attempting to adapt idea this to an RCBS press.

I did not bother installing an in-line switch, because it is too easy to simply remove the wall wart from the wall receptacle. Also, unless removed, the wall wart is always powered on.

Time for construction - plan on 1 hour. It took me 15 minutes after I had the parts together. and after 45 minutes of thought.

Good luck.

Jack

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Ivan the Butcher · #3 12-07-2021, 07:27 PM

Very nice! I didn't know that the powder measure bushing and the tool head hole were the same size. That opened up so many possibilities!

Ivan

terry_tr6 · #4 12-07-2021, 10:26 PM

Love LED's! Wired 110V ones on flex arms onto my bench grinder and drill press, USB powered tape led's inside my gun safe and another in my bayonet display. When the 3' fluorescent tube dies inside the loading cabinet it'll go LEDs too. almost zero power draw and no heat. Garage ceiling is now all 4' LED's and way more light than fluorescent ones and the ability to chain a lot together without having startup issues.