My preference is Lyman M expander dies - they are more gradual and give me more control than others. If I use a powder-thru die on the progressive press, it’s also Lyman. Looks like I use Redding crimp dies, both taper and roll crimps. Redding crimp dies seem to offer more control and more gradual crimps than others I’ve tried. I don’t like to seat and crimp in the same step. For seating and sizing I’ve used Hornady, Redding, RCBS, and Lyman dies. Hornady pistol seating dies are nice because of the multiple inserts to accommodate different shaped bullets.

If I were starting to reload a new pistol cartridge, I probably would buy a 3-die set from Lyman and add the appropriate Redding crimp die.

P.S. for rifle seating dies, the Forster Bench Rest Seater can’t be beat IMHO. Redding uses Forsters now expired patent but costs more. Basically, there’s a sliding sleeve inside the seater die that mimics your chamber and does a great job of aligning the bullet properly.

I see lots of votes for Dillon dies but you don't want Dillon pistol dies if you don't have a Dillon machine. Dillon flares the case mouth with the powder measure funnel which means their die sets don't include a flaring die. Why pay $140 for an incomplete die set when you could get a Lee set for $40 and load ammo that is just as good? The other thing about Dillon pistol dies is that you have to turn the whole die body to adjust seat and crimp, which is a pain. I have a few Dillon sets and they are phenomenal but I only use them for cartridges that I load 1k at a time.
For rifle dies I would pick Redding every time, with a Lee FCD for most cartridges. For handgun just pick your favorite color die box. Redding and RCBS are excellent. Dillon is great for progressives and turrets. Lee is far and away the best value and some of the smartest design features. One big reason to buy a Lee Delux set is you can split up the seat and crimp steps on a progressive or turret (just like a Dillon set) and you still get a flaring die. My only experience with Hornady left me a little unimpressed. Lyman products get very mixed reviews.

I still use Dillon dies in other presses. I have a few powder dies for the AT-500. They lock the expander in one place. and have a little funnel for dropping powder. Works great on a Redding T-7...or on a Lee Classic cast turret press. One of the 2 or 3 Lee products worth having...in my opinion. I load a couple of cals with both turrets and use the AAT 500 powder dies with powder scoops...by Lee or my own homemade scoops

I forgot that I use Dillon dies to load my .223 cartridges for the AR on my RCBS Junior press. The sizer die is small base and carbide. I get excellent accuracy.

Am liking Lyman pistol carbide (or whatever the sizing ring is made of) dies for 45 acp and 40 S&W. They have a small lip lip that can be gently peened over so you can resize more of the case.

I would love to see your setup using the LEE Classic Turret press you mentioned, please...?

Don't you need to also obtain Dillon's inserts for different calibers?

Cheers!

I did another run last night and I noticed that this "catching" thing only tends to happen as I am adjusting the crimp on the first round. So the seater is out of the equation. It is backed out or lately I am just removing it. After I settle on a crimp setting and put the seater back in, all the production rounds don't catch.

I am curious about the Lee Factory Crimp that was mentioned a few times. Can someone say more about that? How does it differ from the crimp in a Nornady or RCBS die? Is it like preset for a given case so nothing to adjust?

I'm a Lee guy.All my stuff is Lee except RCBS scale..
Lee Classic Turret Press
Lee Safety Prime
Pro Auto Powder Measure
Lee Bench Powder Measure and Stand
Lee Hand Loading Press
Lee Hand Priming Tool
Lee 4 Die Carbide sets

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My findings as well.

I have four sets of Hornady dies for Reeder cartridges and they are not finished inside resulting in failure to form a case in some cases.

I used 600 grit emery cloth to finish the inside of the case forming die. This allowed forming of the case smoothly and easily without any ruined cases.

I later polished my other die sets resulting in improved case forming.

I watched some videos on the Lee Factory crimp. I guess it is adjustable so would need adjustment but I do like the idea of decoupling the seating from the crimping. It adds a step to the process but everything is trade-offs. Since I learn by doing, I just ordered the Lee four-die sets in 38spl/357 and 9mm. I super appreciate everyone's input here.

I started with Lee Dies and presses, They work very well, I reload both pistol and rifle. Lee has made improvement in the power measure and why spend the extra money on something you don't really need.

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Carpriver.

Lockring issues:
As mentioned before, my set of RCBS dies came with a damaged thread on the expander die. I fixed it by chasing the thread but in doing so, I also noticed that the set screw in the locking will re-damage the thread. Also it varies between the dies. I was not able to chase the thread on the sizing die. I guess the whole thing is Nitride coated. I found the lockring set screw does not damage that die. But the expander die thread is easily damaged by the lockring set screw. What's with that? I guess it wouldn't matter if you just set the die once and never have to change the locking but that isn't realistic.

Some companies ship their dies with split-style lockrings and those won't damage the thread. My Hornady dies have split lockrings and it looks like the Lee dies do too. A lot of folks here mentioned Redding as the best but most expensive dies yet from the photos, it looks like their lockrings are the type where the set screw hits the die threads. Is that the case?

RCBS had a lot of fans in this thread but in all the years they have been making dies, they ship their product with lockrings that damage the die threads?

I ordered a set of the Lee dies for 357mag; the four die set. I like the idea of separating the set and crimp stages so I wanted to give them a try. Hopefully they ship with the split lock rings. I bought a set of Hornady lockrings for my RCBS dies.

The idea of of trying the Lee dies came from responses here so thanks to everyone.

Originally the lock ring set screws all had a lead shot under them to keep them from mashing into the die threads. You can still do that...but when you want them to loosen you will have to unscrew the set screw and (lightly)tap it with a plastic hammer to make it turn loose

Newer RCBS dies have brass contacting the die threads. Well at least my newer dies do.

I have/ had Lyman, RCBS, Texan, C&H, Bonnaza, Redding, Pacific, Herters and only dies I ever had trouble with was Hornady New Dimension and Lee.
If I was to buy a set of dies today they would be RCBS.
I had dies for just about every common, military and a lot of the old cartridges that started as BP. Made it a policy never to sell dies unless had multiples of same. If you do I guarantee you the next day you will get another gun and you will be buying the dies again. Murphy’s Die Law.

My RCBS dies are only a few months old. I will look to see if the screw is brass or steel but it defiantly mashed the die threads.

The thread defect as received was lower down closer to the base but when I removed to the lock-ring to chase the thread, there was a second mashed thread at that point. In fact, at first the lockring was stuck. I am just going to replace the lockrings with the split type from Hornady or Lee.

The reviews here for the Reddding ring make for some interesting reading. A bunch of 1-stars about dorking up the thread and some 5-stars sating a softer metal contacts the threads. I guess I don't understand why everyone doesn't use the split-ring design.

Redding Die Locking Ring 7/8-14 Thread

RCBS for my "accuracy" dies, Lee for my "shooters". Lee factory crimp dies for all. Done those for years for my 38's, 357's, 44spls, 44mags, and 45acp.

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Y'all do know RCBS had split rings too. Discontinued of course. The new black rings have supposedly brass setscrews. Forster had splits . RCBS did away with split rings due to cost I guess. I'm not real keen on the Hornady split rings but they do work. They are ok but the flat sides don't always work on my Dillon presses...which are admittedly a bit tight for room. All said I never had a problem with the rings RCBS(and others) had with the piece of lead in them. Just had to tap 'em with a plastic hammer and they came loose...no buggered threads either. And you can still put a lead shot in the new lockrings. Voila' All fixed!

The split lock rings are great. Forster, Lyman, Hornady and now Lee all make them. The new Lee locking rings look good and are not expensive.

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SWCA #3437

How much are you belling the case before seating the bullet? You should only bell just enough to keep the bullet upright during seating. Minimal amount that works is the key. Additionally, over time the crimp die, especially the brand that likes to rub a little, will build up with brass. Clean that die with rubbing alcohol and a rag, you may be surprised. But my bet is to large of a bell and some dies are a bit tighter than others (Lee) in this particular operation.

And a little more info for you. I changed from media tumbling to wet tumbling several years ago and I much prefer the wet. However, that process removes all the lubricity from the case (talking pistol brass) and can be a little sticky feeling in the press handle during sizing or belling stations. I tend to give the brass a light spritz of lube and shake them all up before processing. This really smooths out the entire process.

Attached Images

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I'm set up to reload 11 handgun calibers and 6 rifle calibers. I've tried other brands ( Lyman, Dillon, RCBS) over the last 30 years and always come back to Lee .Usually the 4 die sets when available. They just work for me and are intuitive to set/up and use. $50/set and the ammo shoots better than I can.

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Dave

A few comments based on posts above, FWIW . . . .

Lee lockrings: they drive me nuts! The idea of a rubber o-ring to keep the lockring in place is flawed in my opinion. It doesn't work well for me since it doesn't really lock in place very well and they drag as you try to spin them on. I much prefer locked or unlocked, not always half-locked. Maybe Lee has changed their approach since I last looked since people seem well-pleased with Lee.

I've never had issues with RCBS rings, either split or setscrew. None of my die threads were deformed. It just takes a light touch on the setscrew; no need to really mash it down.

I concur with Mike0251 about wet tumbling. It works very well, but yess indeed, it makes brass drag on expander plugs and tougher to size, even with carbide dies. Presently I run a "rinse cycle" with automobile wash n' wax. This leaves a film of wax on the cases and reduces friction. No more squeaking and squawking when expanding cases. I will try spritzing some lube on the cases. It would be simpler than running another wet rinse cycle as I've been doing.

I bought a wet tumbler but am still running through new brass but I plan to try that method. I saw some videos where they use a Turtlewax wash and wax product instead of Dawn in the mix with Lemyshine. The idea being you get waxed brass without a separate step. Can't say if it works but sounded promising.

I got a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler at the yaed sale Saturday. Had to buy it for 60 bucks . Fellow said he used it once and had trouble with expanders wanting to stick so never used it again. I got pins, separator, magnet, Lemishine and an extra 5 lbs of pins. So I'm going to use it on handgun cases. The idea of a rinse with auto polish is neat...but I spritz with spray on lube even using carbide dies

The new Lee lockrings are split. Not sure if they also have the o-ring on the bottom. From the photos online, it looks like they do.

I can see two-sides to having the o-ring. I guess one-could always take them out and just use the clamp screw.

If you want a locking ring, the split style are superior to the set screw type. Hornady makes a great one. I am not as fond of the set screw type but I think some people here are way over tightening the set screw. I agree the steel-on-steel design is dumb and they should all have a plastic or brass nose on the setscrew. But if you are damaging the threads with the setscrew you are over-tightening it. Modest torque is plenty.

The split Lee lockrings are an upgrade. Die sets and most die accessories come with the solid O-ring lockrings with the new splined drive wrench interface. The spline drive and the stubby wrench prevent you from over tightening the locking and thus defeating the purpose of the O-ring. The split ring version is identical in function but it allows "set and forget" repeatability. This is only an advantage for "utility" dies like the universal decapper, or high volume dies that you rarely adjust.
The O-ring is a great feature that has been copied by custom die makers like Whedden so don't sell it short. It gives you a "floating" die that self-centers (to a degree) in the press.

I have a few thoughts on the Lee FCD as well. The rifle version and the pistol version are two totally different animals. The rifle version crimps with a collet. It has the advantage of being indifferent to case length and it crimps with zero setback. It can also crimp rounds even when the bullet lacks a cannelure.

The pistol version uses a carbide ring instead of a collet. The ring will produce a taper crimp first, then a roll crimp if it is adjusted down. The ring also post-sizes cases which is an interesting feature. Post sizing can correct concentricity issues with loaded rounds. it can fix "Glocked" brass that has a bulge near the head. Posts sizing might not be desirable with some loads because it could swage down cast bullets.


My experience: My rifle dies are mostly Redding and RCBS but I still crimp with the FCD. I use the FCD with several pistol cartridges but mostly because I have the Lee 4 die sets and I seat/crimp in separate steps. Otherwise I don't consider it indispensable like I do with rifle loads. For 9mm and 40S&W I use Dillon dies and the Dillon crimp. I do use the 40s&w FCD in the "Bulge Buster" kit for unknown range pickup brass.

I acquired a set of RCBS dies at a good price at an auction. Cleaned them up and went to install them in a four hole turret for my Lee progressive loader. The Locking rings are so large they will not fit in the 4 hole turret without binding on the other dies.

Back to Lee dies for me.

No need to stop using the RCBS dies if you want to use them. Personally I have no problem with Lee handgun dies and use them on my Lee 4 Hole Turret Press.

You can change the rings to the new Lee rings. They are made to fit Lee presses of course.

There are 4 choices on this page:
Reloading Die Parts & Accessories for Sale | MidwayUSA
Set of 4 different color ultimate rings, Set of 3 silver ultimate rings with a wrench, 3 ring on a card which are finger tightened and an item with the wrench alone.

All you need is to change the rings on the RCBS dies.

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SWCA #3437

I use RCBS dies in my Dillon and found the same thing. The centers in the 550 toolhead are too close to accommodate RCBS rings. No problem, I just replace the rings with Dillon rings and all is good.

As an aside, I have no trouble at all with non-Dillon dies in the 550.

I have been working with a particular bullet. The Rim Rock 357 158gr LSWCHP g/c. I made some a few weeks ago with my Hornady dies and made some last week with my RCBS dies. There was a bit of a problem with the RCBS dies.

The g/c on the base of the bullet is .360dia. I had to go in pretty far with the expander die to open the mouth enough to get the g/c inside the case. At that point, the case mouth hits the opening at the bottom of the seater/crimp die. It went in with a little force and the finished bullets look OK but I did notice some brass shavings collecting around the shell holder.

I want to try the Lee dies and then Hornady again and pay more attention to how the bullet fits in the seater after being opened enough for the g/c base. I know the Lee Factory crimp die talks about sizing the brass again so I wonder if the case will fit into the crimp die after the seating die.

With the Hornady dies, I recall having to go in further with the expander than with my plain lead bullets but I do not recall the case having trouble going in to the seater/crimper. With the Hornady dies, I sometimes feel that catching on the way down as I mentioned before.

Interesting comments regarding dies. I have them ranging from Hollywood Texan, Redding, RCBS, Hornady, and evedn a few Behr. I like them all. When reloading exoctic calibers, or one of a kind wildcat Ill use whatever works.
Regards Dr Charlie

If I may, allow me to write a little more detail on why buy the expensive Redding dies.

They have a micrometer adjustment on the top for those of us who make 20 rounds and then swap out the bullet. The seating and crimping micrometer topped dies are quick to adjust for different bullet lengths.

If you make hundreds of rounds with the same bullet, you don't do adjustments and really don't need to spend the extra $100-$150 per die.

I also use a lot of different diameters and bullet noses. RCBS support has been outstanding in helping me to find the right size and shape on the Stems of the expander and seater dies.


Prescut

Yes. When most dies crimp, they crimp with the body of the die, so you don’t feel the crimp release. Hornady crimps with the floating sleeve. Some dies give an odd release sensation about 1/2 way down the down stroke at an odd place. It is normal.

I’m a Hornady die fan.

Carbide in Redding or Dillon. never had any issues with either. Higher priced but you get what you pay for

CH4D ... if you have never tried them ... you will never know !
Gary

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Too much crump? Try adjusting your crimp and see if that sticking or catching goes away.