Need some advice on reloading for S&W 45 ACP Revolver.

I have shot and reloaded for 45 ACP semi-autos, but never shot nor reloaded for the 45 ACP revolver.

Are there anything special that needs to be done for the revolver as compared to the semi-auto? Meaning different type of crimp etc.

Also any suggestions on moon clips - meaning half moon compared to full moon, type of materials they are made of that are better than others, brands that are better etc?

Very newbie to 45 ACP revolver (I shoot other revolvers but not with clips)

Thank you
RG45

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Choose but choose wisely

I load exactly the same for my 625 as I do for my 1911. Well, almost (always that exception).

I've found that federal brass is too thick to drop freely into the cylinder when loaded in full moon clips. Winchester and RP work fine.

I've also found that RP brass is so thin that it has insufficient neck tension to prevent bullet setback when loaded in my 1911.

So I use Federal brass in my 1911, RP brass in my 625 (where there is no bullet setback issues), and winchester works in both.

I have one set of dies that I use for both, so I use the same bullets, powder, primers, seating depth, and crimp for both.

I've used S&W and Wilson moon clips, both work fine. You will need a remooner/demooner tool to load/unload them.

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Common sense isn't so common.

Basically nothing different in terms of reloading if the revolver is in factory stock condition. If the DA trigger pull has been lightened appreciably you may need Federal primers to insure reliable ignition. I use the Ranch products steel moonclips and they work well with my mixed brass reloads. A round nose bullet will facilitate faster reloads in the revolver while SWC's might have a tendency to hang up on the chambers edge.

OK, I have a M625JM that I shoot all types of loads through it too!

This is one of the most fun firearms to shoot and handload for that I have ever shot. From "smokin' hot" to just making it out of the barrel. Versatile, very versitile!

Here are some pictures:


The one in the middle is my favorite load to shoot in this firearm. It is an H&G #502 SWC over a healthy dose of SR4756 for about 1100fps out of the 4" tube. The one on the right is a 270gr SWC that I got from a fellow forum member Paul5388. (Great guy by the way!)The ones on the right are loaded in 45AR cases so they won't get used in any of my automatics!
From 200gr LSWC to 270gr you can have a great time with this shooting platform.

Here are some other bullets that I have fooled around with in this firearm:
(click on video to watch)


These were taken out of some Thompson Center Sabots. They weighed right @ 250gr. They chambered easily and were exceptionally accurate. Mild recoil too.





I've loaded some 160gr LRNFP bullets with 3.5gr of Bullseye and they literally went "POP" instead of "BANG". Actually they went "POP" then "SMACK" at 20 yards!

I have only used steel full moon clips but have heard that the "Rimz" brand of plastic ones work well too. No experience there.

As for a tool. Get yourself a piece of 3/8" CPVC pipe and put a flat on one end. Look at the tool that Midway (Brownells?)sells and make your own. You will have about $0.10 in it.

Hope this helps!

I load the same way for the revolver as for the 1911, I want the ammo to run in any of my guns.
I use Federal brass most of the time and haven't had any problems except the occasional case that cracks from old age/over use.
I don't remember the brand of full moon clips I use, they're steel and came about a hundred to an order.

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Lynnie, Professional Pest

I use any kind of 45ACP Brass and 45AutoRim in my cut for American ammo Webley-Green revolver. Good crimp with both varieties of brass, use lead 200 grain round-nose flat point lead bullets. The powder is Unique, six grains and the plates will drop. I prefer the older style half moon clips. Seems more appropriate for a revolver made in World War One.

Same here. Any bullet with a shoulder will hang up dangling from a moon clip if you are trying to reload in a hurry. Save SWC's for plinking.

I now use the 200 grain poly-coated RNFP's for all my .45 ACP loads. This allows me to use the same bullet in both my semi and revo loads, simplifying inventory.

I load a ton for the model 25 and I love to use the same load as my 1911s use. I do load a few 250 grain FNL bullets (use em for my cowboy guns) and they have a heavier smack at the far end of the range.

Thank you all for your replies.
Good information.

Is there any better re-mooning or de-mooning tools?
I have noticed several types and was curious what the experienced moon clip users are using.

Thank you again
RG45

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Choose but choose wisely

OK, in my post above I gave you a suggestion to look for a moon clip tool from Midway. It was actually Brownells. Here is what theirs looks like:


They are $18 or so plus shipping.
I don't know much about these as I have never owned one. I'm on the cheap side and prestige isn't in my vocabulary so I make most of my own stuff! Those that have their noses in the air about that kind of stuff may just drown one day, given enough rain!

Here is mine:

I cut this ledge into the end of this piece of 3/8" CPVC pipe. This pipe is 10-12" long. I used a 1/2" paddle bit to ream it out so my cases would fall through it more easily.

Another shot:

I unload the clips over a pull string bag designed to capture my spent cases. (They were built by my daughters from scratch, shoe strings for ties. My "mooning tool" is the big hairy thing in this picture!)

This is how you use it. Install like this and simply give it a twist. The ledge gives you a "fulcrum" and they come right out. Then they travel down the tube into the awaiting bag! Pretty cool!


Hope this helps!

This is the first time I've heard of a 625 that will not function with Federal brass. My three 625s function with everything and anything out there in any steel moonclip that I have ever tried. Frankly I am amazed that the .45 ACP moonclip platform is so flexible and reliable. Most other cartridges will be very picky when moonclipped and cases will need to be sorted, but not with the .45 ACP.

You can use very light or heavy loads, within reason. I would suggest that if you plan to shoot very heavy loads you not chamfer the chambers, or if you must, then do it very lightly.

Dave Sinko

Smity Crazy

I like that.
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Great pics, makes perfect sense for the de-mooning.

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Choose but choose wisely

Hmmm, maybe I have a problem with mine?

With federal brass, both my own reloads and factory federal ammo (hydroshok), moonclipped cartridges won't drop in the cylinder. I've tried loading them without the moon clip, and they still won't drop freely in the chambers, I have to push them in the last bit.

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Common sense isn't so common.

I load all my 45acp the same regardless of using it in the M625 or 1911. I do like the ability to use a 250grLSWHP in my M625 that won't feed as well in my 1911. At 850fps, it's a good performer in the 4" rev.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

I think that I may be needing to look for some RN bullets for reloading, I am currently loading SWC.

I have seen tools for re-mooning as well, are then necessary, or is it just easier with the re-mooning tools? Also if they are needed which is a better one.

Sorry for all the questions, just have no experience with moon clips and their use.
Thank you
Roy

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Choose but choose wisely

I made mine out of 1/2 inch copper plumbing pipe scrap, put an "L" on the bottom for a handle, with a piece of pipe in it maybe 3 inches long. Made the notched part about 6 or seven inches long, so it just holds 6 fired cases. Then you dump it into your brass can. Works like a charm, and >>>Free<<<. The $18 + postage for the factory made tool will buy another pound of powder. If your clips are hard to load, use 8 inch Channelocks to snap the rounds in.

I like this tool for "re-mooning":

http://mooncliptool.com/

It also works well for "de-mooning" but I prefer this tool for that:

http://www.cactustactical.com/osc/ca...oner-p-66.html

NOTE: The first tool will both re-moon and de-moon cases. The second tool will only de-moon but does two at a time in 2.5-3.0 seconds per clip.

I have and use both.

For range use, I use Auto Rim cases or if using ACP cases use the polymer RIMZ clips which can EASILY be done with only the fingers.

Dale53

If you're using cast bullets, try and match your bullet diameter to your revolver's cylinder throat diameters. Regardless of hardness, undersize bullets will produce leading.

If I load SWC in my 1989 45 ACP I have to fiddle with the round to get them to enter the charge holes. But when I switched to LRNFP the problem went away. Now when I use full moon clips the rounds seem to jump into the cylinder

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Semper FI

I love the 25 and 625 in .45 ACP - I can shoot nearly any bullet with no concern about feeding, cycling the action or picking up brass. I also favor the 300 grain RNFP - works perfect for me. I shoot the 25 with iron sights and the 625 with an UltraDot 30 - best of both worlds.

I made my demooner from a piece of 1/2 inch conduit - also long enough to hold 6 rounds. I polish all of my moon clips with the Dremel - makes loading and demooning smoother. I have no need for fast reloading so I usually use .45 AR brass.

I shoot a lot of Trail Boss in mine.

I am reading all of these post stating that: "I use the same loads in both" and I am wondering WHY?

To me that is like owning a magnum anything and only shooting shorts in them. I understand the ability and need of shooting lighter loads, don't get me wrong. But someone that doesn't "wring out" their magnums at some point, needs a little help, in my opinion.

I mean, you wouldn't buy a 'vette and ONLY drive it 25mph would you?

The 45ACP revolver platform allows you a place to experiment with that caliber in ways unavailable when shooting it from a semi-auto.

Bullet shapes and weights can be fully explored in the M25, M625 and to a certain extent the M1917. Why wouldn't you do that? I mean, at least once.

If it is for convenience sake, I suppose I can understand. The thing is, you have a 'vette in your firearms lineup that you are driving 25mph everywhere. Not me!

Buy a heavy 45Colt bullet and do some experimenting.

Interesting smith crazy

I load for the 45 Colt as well.
I may have to try some of the heaver bullets in the 625
RG45

__________________
Choose but choose wisely

I'm sure you meant 200grRNFP.

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NRA Cert. Inst. IDPA CSO

I thought that the question had been answered. Here it is again:

Convenience. It reduces bullet inventory and reduces the likelihood of grabbing the wrong box on the way to a match.

Nope. And the point of owning a 625 in .45 ACP is moonclips.

For reloading QUICKLY (or trying to) so I can keep shooting it QUICKLY (or trying to) because time wasted means matches lost.

THAT is what I bought it for and THAT is what I use it for; not trying to duplicate a Napoleon load with a .45. If I need to bring down grizzly bears, zombies or "black helicopters," a rifle would be the better choice, anyway.

Asked and answered.

I have and do load some revolver only "bunny fart" loads for my 625. These are for light shooting and are excellent for new shooters. Not much recoil, but also not enough "umph" to reliably make my 1911 function. BTW, these are lite bullets and light charges (155gr SWCs in front of 4.5grs of 700-X).

I'm with Skip on the d-Mooning tool (I don't see the need in a moon-clip "loading" tool...my fingers are doing the job just fine) Here's my d-mooning tool...made from a piece of copper tubing. There ARE plenty of tools you can spend your money on...I just have not seen the need.

Bob

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"Onward thru the Fog"

Hey Smith Crazy, that is really cool. I can see where that would really work well. I hope I can wear out this darn excpencive tool I have as I want one like you have. I wish I had talked to you before buying mine. GREAT idea and advice.

I somewhat disagree. In my younger day I would drive any car as fast as the road would allow. I even floated the valves on 1968 Shelby GT 500. The Speedo was beyond reading.

I have rode motorcycles over 150 MPH including a Harley FXR with an aftermarket SS engine, that was clocked on Rader.

I've hot loaded my prior 44 mags and got over 1400 FPS out of a 3 inch K frame 357 Mag.

Now days as I passed 65, I am more interested in driving 75 MPH, the local Speed limit weather it is a vintage Vett or my Jeep wrangler.

AS my eyes are till good-no glasses yet-- my goal is to get little bitty groups out of my rifles and pistols with as little recoil as is possible. Hence Light loads. I have been the 7mm Magnum then the 8 MM magnum rifle as well as the Win 458 rifle route. I have settle for very accurate 308 and a very accurate .223 rifle.

Shooting at least 100 pistol rds- 2 times a week I find, that for me, the light loads serve my purpose.

I have no problem with those that want to shoot the MAX loads, been there and done that,

I used the latest greatest factory loads for home/self defense and I try to settle on a minimum number of handloads that provide the accuracy I DEMAND.

If I find a light accurate load that I can shoot in IDPA, SASS, ETC and works in more then one handgun then Horary for me.

It simplifies the amount of different powder and bullet weights I have to stock.

To me accuracy is more important then power. Taking home a turkey I won shooting a pistol at 42 yards means more to me then shooting a lower score using a max load.

If I find a Powderful load that has the same accuracy as the light load I will still choose the light load.

I have been reloading for almost 40 years now and have become somewhat opinionated in what I like and I have become jaded to the "WOW" factor in heavy recoil.

Even said all of that I still feel that to each their own, keep shooting and enjoy.

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Semper FI

Bob, VonFatman's post puts the icing on the cake of what was being said in my post. If you load one round for both, fine. That's fine for you and all you do and all you want to do and (are you getting the drift?).......


If you want to share and spread the knowledge to others your goals may be just a little different. I want to be able to run my 45AR 240gr rounds to 1100fps out of a 4" barrel or the 160gr RNFP one I mentioned that my wife would like to shoot.

If it's all about you then your mileage may vary. Fine.

Beans,
I'm just trying to figure out why being 65 has anything to do with my analogy. It's had nothing to do with how old the driver is. You aren't going to buy something then only use it half way. If you ever do buy a 'vette that will go real fast can I borrow it when you aren't driving it? I'm only 53 so that's 12 years until I have to slow down like you have!

Yes, I meant 200 grain RNFP - too much relaxing on the screen porch with a nice Pinot Grigio.
However, I did get some shooting in today between thunderstorms with the new Ruger Bisley 5.5 inch stainless steel .45 Colt. Shot pretty well, and will be better after Alan Harton works his magic.

Here's my homemade moon tool. It will both load and unload moon clips. Cost of materials was less than $5.

Back to the question of reloading 45 acp for revolver, when using mixed brass, I find a seperate die to seat and a seperate die to crimp, will work best. Otherwise, thin walled cases don't get enough crimp with a combo seat/crimp die and bullets will back out under recoil in a revolver.

Just my experience and how I fixed it.

I agree 100% with Mr. Win. I have gone to separate dies for each function on all pistol calibers.

Bob

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"Onward thru the Fog"

Glad to be in this group!

Using a Square Deal B makes this a no brainer as it can't happen any other way!

Now that I have an XL650, I have gone with an extra die in the 5th station.

If I am loading on my Lee Custom Turret press, I may do something different. Some of those calibers I load on that, I don't have separate dies for. I will use the same seating/crimping die, only in two steps.

Thanks for the kind words Skip. I try to help out when possible.

I guess it's about time for me to wade into this discussion.

I'll be 65 in a month or so. Even so, after I put some new struts on my Mercedes 300D Turbo I wanted to make sure the front end had quit acting like it had a tire out of balance. When it hit 90, while still in 3rd gear, I decided to let off and then turned around and did the same thing on the way back!

I've had 2 model of 1989 M625s and neither one was babied.

When I grab these, it's a no brainer to know they aren't for a 1911.



Not only are they a 270 gr bullet, but they're also in .45 Super brass.

I stopped playing games 20 years ago, right after my second tour, when I was only 45 and even then, the game was softball.

Other than load development, I shoot things that need shooting, like critters in my front yard. I guess that may contribute to maintaining my supply of primers.

I just purchased a 625-4. It came with metal moonclips and I bought some plastic moonclips to try too.

The plastic moonclips are definitely easier to load and unload. What are the merits of the metal moonclips compared to plastic moonclips?

Thanks, Jim

Jim,
I can't honestly say as I've never used the plastic clips. I am sure someone will chime in and offer an opinion.

Bob

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"Onward thru the Fog"

Made mine exactly like Smith Crazy, except made out of 1/2" ID copper pipe. Work great.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

RIMZ for the M625 will break if you drop them while they're loaded. The M25 RIMZ can be modified to fit the M625 and they have some metal reinforcement made in them.

Of course, I don't make a practice of dropping mine, but I have broken one of them.

I have S&W half moons and metal moons, but I rarely use them.

I use the Rimz clips for all my range shooting. They are real easy to load and unload.
I still use the steel clips when carrying my 625-6 Mountain Gun, I think the steel clips hold the rounds more securely.
I've got a couple of 1911's and the 625-6 in .45ACP. They all seem to prefer different loads.
All three will work with the 230 gr bullets at the standard velocity that my Kimber is set up for with it's fixed sights.
I guess that's what I should shoot in all three, but I've like the 200 gr. SWC's at 1000fps in the Para and the S&W.
Now I'm gonna have to try the 270gr SWC that I have for my .45 Colt in the ACP.

The old trick was to use an old 45 auto barrel to "de-moon" the clip. I thought I had one on hand, but couldn't find it, so I just bought one from Brownell's. It's just a tube with a shoulder notch to pry against the clip with.

I have a 230gr RCBS "cowboy" bullet mould that is kind of a "round nose flat point", but it still has a bit of a shoulder...kind of a "semi-semiwadcutter". HUGE flat point. Finally I have a proper sizer to size down this .454" bullet. Haven't loaded any up yet.

Stophel: Sir i have that mold now about 3 month so far it is the best mold i have for my 625. But it will cast a little big bit still it will shoot under 2 inchs at 25ya with Win. 231

I just sized a bunch yesterday evening. .452" fits my chambers well (the new 22-4). I can push them through with a stick without undue pressure. Snug, but not tight. A .453" bullet has to be pounded through (I made a .453" sizing die...after 2 hours of trying to ream an HSS die with an HSS reamer....but, by golly I got it! 'course I don't really need it....)

I believe that this will finally work out for me. Previously, my Lee sizer only put out a .451" bullet!!! That's just too freakin small, and my shot patterns reflected that...

I might finally get some new loads made up and shot this weekend.

I like the idea of trying a lot of different weight bullets in my 25-2. I own plenty of .45 Colt's and even a lot bigger guns, but still.......

I don't bother with moonclips. I find them a pain in the rump. I don't shoot competition with it so I just drop in ACP cases and fire. They come out very easily with fingers too.

I will be going to AR brass here shortly, just to experiment some more. I don't like the idea of my 25-2 being only a "target" gun, when it shoots so well. It will do for whitetails and such nicely with a good SWC of 240 to 280 grains at 1,000 fps or more.

I like the idea of trying an old barrel for de-mooning. I have an old Wilson match barrel that was split by a squib load/follow up shot, during a match years ago. I'll give it a try.

I load 255 swc for my 1911. I use a 1.20 aol and a lfc to .470. This brings the crimp just to the back edge of the first "ring". Thesr bullets are very accurate in my 1911. I just got a 625 and shot it using the same ammo, but noticed some backing out of the last rounds when I checked them. I do know the leading edge of the brass is sort of hanging in mid air.
I guess I will have to set the oal a bit shorter to get the crimp on that front shoulder.

Stay away for R-P brass get Star.I have a lot of bad R-P auto rim after 1 reload. As far as crimp goes i had to go to a under size sizer for Lee. I was get a lot of bullet jump. I thank auto rim brass is not as thick as 45acp brass and i got Redding 45 auto rim not a acp die

Something that can, and will help keep your bullets in the cases. Check the expander ball for size. Most of the time the factory gets them right, but not always. (.001"-.002") under nominal bullet diameter) A trick I learned from Brian Pearce, is to reduce the size of the expander ball to at least .004"- .005" under bullet diameter. It works! Even on extremely hard recoiling rounds the bullets stay in place if seated this way, along with a proper crimp. It doesn't cause an ugly buldge in the brass either.

I would do this but I have a sizing die that does not have a sizing ball.
Thanks, Bill

Hello Coats, if I may ask, what is your load of W231 for this bullet? I am waiting on my mould back from RCBS. It would whisker on me and the bases wouldn't fill out. My chambers on my M22 Classic are .453 and I have plenty of W231 to load with. I really like the RCBS cm bullet style, should be a hard hitter.

First, welcome to the forum!

Your resizing die won't generally have an expander ball in handgun cases, but you neck expander/mouth flare die should. The Hornady New Dimension Dies that I have for handgun rounds won't allow you to take the ball out to check or adjust. My RCBS dies will.

Sir I used 5.3 grs of 231 sofar it shootes the best. I have used Unigue also but it did not do as well as 231. Now in some books that is a max load some watch yourself