Anyone use such a tool for pistol and revolver brass? Is it worth the time and effort?

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Still Running Against the Wind

I use a primer pocket uniformer as well as a flash hole deburring tool on all my revolver brass. Mine are both from Sinclair, I have adapted them for power use utilizing a Black & Decker power screwdriver. I usually perform both operations while sitting in my recliner watching TV. I also trim to length and deburr case mouths. I like my brass to be as uniform as possible. In addition to making all primer pockets a uniform depth, the uniforming tool removes the radius in the bottom of the primer pocket assuring that the primer anvil sits squarely on the bottom of the primer pocket. The operation only needs to be done once, it assures that ignition is uniform from one case to the next. I feel that it is time well spent.

To be extremely honest I can’t say that I do on pistol cases. Fromm my perspective it’s a waste of time. Others see it differently and I respect their view point but we would just have to agree to disagree.

I have used the primer pocket uniformer on rifle brass. Basically brass for the 200yd and 300yd lines I don’t. For the 500/600yd lines I do.

I simply don’t need or want more gadgets for reloading. As I’ve stated before on the forum I’m not a Handloader but rather a Reloader. There are differences between the two. Every nuance of reloading doesn’t excite me anymore.

The combination of shooter, pistol, and ammunition keeps me in the black at fifty yards and that’s all I’m looking for. After fifty yards its rifle time.

The reason I ask (I'll try and make it short) I purchased a 327 MP R8. It has problems with light primer strikes or mis fires. I have returned it to S&W and they replaced the firing pin and fixed the yoke. I took the gun out to the range and it is better but I still get some misfires, light primer strike and no bang. Not all the time, just a few here and there. If I try to re fire in the same gun still no bang. If I put the misfired rounds in my 686 (older one with firing pin on the hammer) they fire.

I am now thinking it may be my brass. I bought some once fired brass ( MagTech, CBC) Some of them had a military primer crimp which I removed with a RCBS swager die/tool.

I use a RCBS hand primer tool and the primers go in no problem since swaging.

So before sending the gun back to S&W again , I want to be sure it's the gun and not me or my reloads. To be honest, I have never had a light primer strike misfire and any of my reloads from 380, 9mm, 45 acp 38, 40, 357 or 44.

I still think it's the gun.

Here is my orginal thread:
https://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/89278-military-primer-crimp-357-mag-brass-pics.html

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Still Running Against the Wind

The first thing I would look at would be the primer seating depth. Ideally, your primers should be about .004" below flush after seating. If they're not fully seated in the primer pocket, then the movement of the primer will cushion the blow from the hammer and cause a misfire.

Hope this helps.

Fred

I had issues with TOO DEEP primer pockets with some CBC range pickup .45 acp's a few years ago. So THE brass could be your problem.

All of mine fired with a 2nd hammer drop which made me think the pockets were too deep. I segregated several of the cases and IIRC they measured about .004"-.005" deeper than my average WW or GI case.

Wish I'd saved the data...but tossed it along with the CBC brass.

FN in MT

Hmmmm?? I had not thought of the being too deep. I thought they might be hanging on what's left of the crimp and sitting high. I will have to check.

Is your dog a Alaskan Malamute?? My sister has two in MN and on is a pup from a champion puller.

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Still Running Against the Wind

If you are having problems as described the last thing you want to do is use a primer pocket uniformer. They "uniform" by cutting them all to the same depth from the case head. In other words, it will make all your primer pockets deeper by some degree tending to aggravate the mis-fire problem.

You will be better off to replace the firing pin with a slightly longer one that increases firing pin protrusion. There are several sources for longer pins. There is a member who just posted a thread titled "My thoughts on longer firing pins" or something close, who sells them. Also Cylinder & Slide does. For the post look in the Gunsmithing forum, it is quite current and still on the first page (a few minutes ago).

For 99% of my pistol brass I don't bother with it but I definitely do on all my .223

There is an article in the newest Handloader about loading the .223 . In the article it states that uniform primer seating is vital to shooting consistent tight groups with the .223 .
This echoes in general what I was taught years ago the first time I took up reloading. In broad terms the smaller the cartridge, the more important primer uniformity becomes. Primer seating depth and a clean primer pocket, if its not clean the dirt will make things inconsistent for you. It all helps to narrow your groups. Some don't buy it, but I doubt you'll find many serious bench rest shooters among them.
One of the real differences in rimfire premium match grade ammo, is the quality of the priming mix and the case to case consistency of it's application to the inside of those small shell casings.

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Geoff. Since 1960.

Back 15 or more years ago Lyman caame out with A " Primer pocket uniformer" that works on all calibers. I have one and it works!

I might consider it if I was looking for the ultimate in handgun accuracy.........like silhouette pistol disciplines or such. Otherwise, life is too short to bother with this while loading for the average off-hand shooting. That said, I do use a Sinclair carbide uniformer for all of my rifle rounds. I'm a bit more finicky about rifle groups that mostly are shot from the bench.

I do use a uniformer on all my rifle brass. I do not on pistol brass. Be aware that rifle & pistol brass primer pockets (large) are different depth. Do not use rifle on pistol or pistol on rifle.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244