Powders to learn with

[Zackary]

Back in February, I decided I wanted to begin reloading for my 3 revolvers, S&W 28-2, 6 inch, S&W 10-5 pencil barrel, 4 inch, and a Ruger Security Six, 4 inch. I've been reading this forum at least 3x/week since then , and I've read Lee's Book through twice. I've also helped a good friend of mine with his reloading chores , an ex-ARMY Vietnam Vet who is an avid cowboy shooter.( He's the one who first got me interested). Have purchased two powders, Bulleye and W231, to begin with. My question is: As a beginner, is one powder easier to learn with than the other? I purchased a Classic Lee Turret Press w/ all the trimmings ( which is yet to arrive). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and expertise.

[Joni_Lynn]

Bullseye is a good powder and has been around for a long time however it's easier to get into trouble with, stick with the WW231.

[sjmjax]

I agree with Joni that between those two, I'd go with 231.

However if you're not opposed to buying another propellant, I'd suggest using TrailBoss. It is almost impossible to double charge a case with TB. Works well with a wide range of cartidges and lead bullets at moderate "cowboy" level loads.

[Skip Sackett]

Either one is a fine powder to begin with. The limitation is that you won't be able to get true magnum performance from either powder if you are looking to load for the M28.

That is fine for a beginner though as learning to walk (target loads) before learning to run (true magnum loads) is greatly suggested!

Both of the powders you have are great for that endeavor. Use a manual/manufacturer's data to load with. Follow the information to a tee and remember, be safe!

There is no reason to shoot one of your mistakes. An impact bullet pulling hammer is one tool you will need. Simply use it to "erase" those mistakes!

[Amici]

Another vote for the impact bullet puller. You will find it a most cost-effective tool.

General rule: The slower the powder, the less likely you are to double-charge a case. Also true for density; the less dense the less likely a double-charge.

I don't like Unique for my applications, but it is a good LEARNING powder. There is a reason so many commercial reloaders use it. Besides it being cheap, of course.

It is almost impossible to double-charge a case with Unique. You'll have powder spilling all over the press, which is a pretty big clue.

Just a suggestion.

[Gutpile Charlie]

That gal Joni has got it right again. I've used both Bullseye and WW231 for .38 Spl. loads. They are both fast burning powders, but I think WW231 will serve you best.

It is my "powder of choice" for target loads.

[OKFC05]

What she said..

[Joni_Lynn]

.............now guys, don't flirt.

(just kidding)

[Sgt Preston]

Sgt Preston here. Joni Lynn nailed it. WW231 is my ONLY powder & I use it for 38, 9mm, & 45 ACP. It meters perfectly (+ or - 1/2 a tenth of a grain) in my Dillon 550. I do load inside in a heated & humidity controlled room. I can't guarantee that degree of accuracy if you are loading in a garage or basement. It's also readily available in most areas & moderately priced. Hope this helps. Sgt Preston USMC LLA.

[oldRoger]

I agree with all, flirt, flirt.
I might suggest another; probably the least dense powder is Red Dot. It makes a good beginning pistol powder especially for the .45, not bad for .44 & .357. Cheap, relatively clean, easy to find.

[Joni_Lynn]

I agree, Red Dot works well as does 700X but WW231 or HP38 meters so well and works great in so many applications that I find myself reaching for it more than most others.

[Amici]

Originally Posted by oldRoger

I might suggest another; probably the least dense powder is Red Dot.

Good suggestion. Burned LOTS of it in .38 Special, .40 and .45. A light load under an HBWC is quite accurate.

As noted, it is versatile, reasonable and readily available.

[fredj338]

I started w/ W231 waaaay back when. Put the BE on a shelf until you finish the W231. Then buy a # of WSF & use that. It meters better than Unique w/ about the same burn rate. I like med. burners for newbs, less steep a pressure curve & broader loading range, especially if you are loading for a 9mm or 357mag. As always, JMO. For "uberfast" powder, I do like RD more than BE, burned #s of it in CAS in the 45colt.

[ArchAngelCD]

IMO W231/HP-38 is a much better choice to start reloading with over Bullseye. W231 meters very well and can be used for a lot of calibers. I use W231 for the .38 Special, 9mm, .45 Auto, .45 Colt and a few others too.

[Rule3]

Powders to learn with

I am really surprised no one mentioned Baby Powder

Just kidding. The Win 231 is the same as HP 38. I have simplified my life and use it almost exclusively for 38/357, 44 special, 9mm and 45 ACP. Yes, there are lots of other powders perhaps more specific for certain loads but for general target shooting I find it works just fine.

I do have several other powders but as you mentioned, look through the Lee load tables and you will find the W 231/HP38 listed for most any handgun load.

When in doubt, post a question about anything, lots of folks here to help you out.

Have fun and be safe.

[oldRoger]

There are a lot of things to remember when handloading. Using a powder like Bullseye which can be double or in some cases triple charged is IMO one challenge you don’t need when gaining that original bit of experience.
Reminds me of the Lady in the office who bought her still in High School son a used Corvette for his “learners car”.

[Roadranger]

I've been reloading since 1967. I've never bought any Bullseye for the reasons mentioned. I've used unique, red dot, blue dot , herco, green dot, AA2,AA5, AA7, AA9, 2400, H110, and most every thing else. Recently, I've narrowed the choices to Titegroup for 9mm,40's, and 45acp's and Trailboss(TB) for most revolver cartridges like 38, 44 special, and 45 colt. I use TB in 41 & 44 mags with cast bullets and recently loaded some 455 webleys and 44-40's with TB. I like the fact if you double charge with TB, there with be powder everywhere. I even worked up a load with TB in my 10mm Glock. TiteGroup is like Breelcream, a little goes a long way. Of course, there are no bad powders, just some may not be appropiate for the use at hand. Bob!

[Amici]

Originally Posted by oldRoger

Reminds me of the Lady in the office who bought her still in High School son a used Corvette for his “learners car”.

Sounds familiar. Back in the day, my wife worked for a Chrysler dealer. Against EVERYTHING the sales staff told her, a dumb high school girl - who couldn't even drive a stick - bought a Shelby Mustang. Of course it was WAY too much for her to handle and the salesmen started a pool on when Susie Creamcheese would be back to exchange it for something suitable.

As I recall, it was two days.

[fredj338]

Originally Posted by Roadranger

I've been reloading since 1967. I've never bought any Bullseye for the reasons mentioned. I've used unique, red dot, blue dot , herco, green dot, AA2,AA5, AA7, AA9, 2400, H110, and most every thing else. Recently, I've narrowed the choices to Titegroup for 9mm,40's, and 45acp's and Trailboss(TB) for most revolver cartridges like 38, 44 special, and 45 colt. I use TB in 41 & 44 mags with cast bullets and recently loaded some 455 webleys and 44-40's with TB. I like the fact if you double charge with TB, there with be powder everywhere. I even worked up a load with TB in my 10mm Glock. TiteGroup is like Breelcream, a little goes a long way. Of course, there are no bad powders, just some may not be appropiate for the use at hand. Bob!

Funny you would be afraid of BE when TG is actually worse. The small volumn it occupies in a large case is just plain scary. RedDot has a sim. burn rat eto TG w/ almost twice the volumn. My choice for fast powder is WST. A bit slower than RD & TG w/ about the same volumn as the RD. Burns clean too.

[Amici]

I've been using WST in my .40 and .45 loads and am quite happy with it. It meters far better than Red Dot.

I have some Tite Group to load jacketed .40 with, but haven't used it yet.

[oldRoger]

Roadranger, based upon my 50 years of experience I am now prepared to declare you officially ready to use Bullseye! .............................................. Enjoy!

Red Dot may not meter particularly well, but its low density makes it very forgiving of the +/_ .1 gr range seen from most powder measures.

[BruceM]

IMO, there is no such thing. Some mistakes are amplified by the propellant used but selecting one based on the notion of a "recoverable oops" is not good operating procedure. When learning reloading, the idea is to develop procedures and habits which preclude mistakes.

Something for consideration.

Bruce

[Smitty500Mag]

Learning powder?? That's like shopping for a learners parachute! You damn well better get it right the first time or it could be your last!

Smitty

[Brander]

Developing procedures and habbits that are safe is, of course, basic when learning reloading. But, everybody is more prone to mistakes when learning something new, despite the best teachers and careful habbits. I think it is wise to use a powder that fills most of the case when beginning, as a backup safety measure. I have seen a couple of KB's from beginning reloaders that were from double loads, and both these guys turned out to be excellent reloaders.

[Skip Sackett]

Let me shed some light on the "learner's powder" thing.


I think the term is being misunderstood.

If you were just starting out loading what powder would be the best one to use, should be the question.

The answer then is not a certain powder but rather powder type, configuration.

Should someone start out with a Lee Auto Disk with Unique, 800x or some other powder that is difficult to meter at times, (at least in the 4-5gr ranges anyway) or AA#2, Bullseye, HP-38/W231?

The "powder to learn with" would be the one, at least in my opinion, that would keep subsequent problems from cropping up, like bridging or leaking or squibs and such like.

I think that is the inference made by the OP.

[duckloads]

Originally Posted by sjmjax

I agree with Joni that between those two, I'd go with 231.

However if you're not opposed to buying another propellant, I'd suggest using TrailBoss. It is almost impossible to double charge a case with TB. Works well with a wide range of cartidges and lead bullets at moderate "cowboy" level loads.

Good suggestion

[oldRoger]

+1 for both Smith Crazy and Brander, This is not the case of training wheels on the bicycle.

The best choice in a first powder is one which helps to form those good habits which will lead to a lifetime of using your own fingers.
In previous posts I have seen advocated the idea of weighing all charges when you start handloading, in my view a first class idea.
I advocate using a loading block, and before placing the bullet checking the case for powder. This is another time when a less dense powder helps because it shows up better in the case and an under or over charge is easier to spot.
I would like to develop the habit of always looking in the case before handseating the bullet, even when graduating to a progressive w/powder cop. It is very good I think to know what you are looking for at this point.
I started with Bullseye, at the time, most people did, I believe the only commonly available pistol powders in my neck of the world were Bullseye, Unique, and 2400 then. But, I do not think fast burn rate dense powders are a good way to start.
I very much like the AA & VV powder lines and they are about all that I use anymore.

[Zackary]

Thank you for the great advice, esp. Brander and crazy smith for clarifying my post, ie learning the process correctly by minimizing room for error. I have a very healthy respect for what I'll be doing. I'm wise enough not to " make the mistake of all mistakes", thinking that I can't make a mistake. Again thanks.

[BE Mike]

I started out with a Lee Loader and used the dipper to load Bullseye for .38 SPL target loads. This was about 1972 and I haven't had any major problems and I shoot a lot. As long as you are careful and don't have any distractions while reloading, you won't have any problems. Alliant Bullseye is the most popular powder for reloading pistol cartridges. It's accurate for target loads and cheap. Believe me, it's not the powder, it's the loose nut behind the reloader that you have to worry about. Go slow and get it right. If something goes wrong, you really can't blame anything or anyone but yourself.

[johngalt]

My first powder was Green Dot, it meters very poorly and was a horrible experience. I would chose something that meters well. When first learning to reload, you have enough problems to worry about without creating artificial ones.

I use both Bullseye and W231, but prefer Bullseye. I think Bullseye meters better but either will work well.

[Groo01]

Groo here
How are you going to measure your charge,
if by scale there are many
if by dipper there are fewer
if by power drop measure fewer yet...
The faster you go the more important the powder type gets.
I started with a lee loader and a dipper, use there charts and all will
be well [built in fuge factor]
weigh your charge is best but takes time [you can make what you want.
droping is the fastest but you can get light drops or with the wrong
powder double charges..
Of the two I would use the 231 as it will be easy to measure and use
the most space in the case.
The other is more of a special use powder as it takes very little
to get in trouble [best for target or low cost loads]