1935 Model 10?

reddoh38 · #1 11-19-2011, 08:09 PM

We recently purchased our first S&W Revolver. The store guy said it's a 1935 Model 10, but I can't find any information on the S&W website to confirm what I have. The barrel says 38 S&W CTG and the serial appears to be 39776. I'm sure I overpaid for it ($300). I was told it will fire "snake shot". Does anyone know about these and/or know where I should go for more information?

Dragon88 · #2 11-19-2011, 08:17 PM

Please post the number on the butt of the revolver, that is the actual serial. The number underneath where the cylinder swings out is only an assembly number. Also, can you post a picture of the gun? Based on the clerk's erroneous description it is probably a .38 M&P, but we need more info to help you.

reddoh38 · #3 11-19-2011, 08:48 PM

I'm not sure if the photo is going to upload, but if so... here it is (yes, I bought a non-original grip - but the one it had was completely broken).
The number on the butt is the same - except it is much more clear and is 397767 with a "V" over to the left. I am guessing that it can't possibly be from 1935 because I heard only 54k were made.
[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Mark&Linda\Desktop[/IMG]

Dragon88 · #4 11-19-2011, 09:02 PM

Hit reply again, look down a little ways below Misc. Options, and click on Manage Attachments. Then click on Browse, browse to the picture and click Open, then click Upload. It will upload the pic and list it in Current Attachments. At that point you can close that smaller window, and hit Submit Reply here.

Your gun should show up just like the puppy below in my reply.

reddoh38 · #5 11-19-2011, 09:24 PM

Now I think the picture is here.

DWalt · #6 11-19-2011, 10:05 PM

With the V prefix, yours is likely one of the WWII S&W Victory models, probably 1943-44. It may or may not have government markings. Just Google for "S&W Victory Models" and you will find many sites that will provide information about it. The British models were in .38 S&W, the US models in .38 S&W Special. They are not the same cartridges. .38 S&W ammunition is available, but a bit difficult to find.

reddoh38 · #7 11-19-2011, 11:51 PM

Thanks so much for your help. That might explain why the 38 special ammo the dealer sold me didn't pass the cylinder test. I'll need to go shopping now.

DWalt · #8 11-20-2011, 12:25 AM

For most any purpose, the .38 S&W is as good as the .38 Special. Unfortunately, it is not nearly as widely distributed, and will be somewhat more expensive. Many large gun shops and sporting goods stores (like Bass Pro Shop or Cabela's) may have a box or two in stock, usually a 146 grain lead bullet only. If they do not have it, they should be able to special order it for you. Gun shows are also good possible sources. Don't throw away the fired brass - you may want to reload it some day.

H Richard · #9 11-20-2011, 10:41 AM

38 S&W is almost always available at Midway. Now you know the level of "expertise" of the gun store clerk. This is not an uncommon situation and and happens in many locations.

Dave_n · #10 11-22-2011, 03:41 PM

You can easily obtain 38 S&W Brass from Starline Brass and then use the Lee 38 S&W die set plus a 180 grain lead flat point bullet, sized 0.360 or 0.361. These are available and fit the bore diameter of the 38 S&W barrel. I reload for S&W/s Enfields and Webleys in this calibre and all are accurate at up to 10 yds or so. In the end, a lot cheaper than buying the 146 grain 38 S&W commercial which always shoots low. Dave_n

DWalt · #11 11-22-2011, 05:08 PM

While the diameter of the .38 S&W bullet is often given as .360". I have pulled bullets from many antique .38 S&W rounds, and they always have miked as being .357"-.358" In fact, standard .38 Special bullets of .357" diameter work fine in every way, and I have loaded thousands of them (all lead) in the .38 S&W. I much prefer to use the lighter 125 grain flat nose, as recoil is somewhat lighter, and it's easier on the revolver. No need to fool around getting some oddball bullet diameter when it is not needed. No reason one couldn't use jacketed bullets, but lead ones are easier on the bore and give lower pressures at the same velocities. I would therefore recommend using only lead bullets in the .38 S&W.

I have always used .38 Super dies for reloading the .38 S&W, but I understand 9mm Luger dies work also (I haven't done this).

In my early days of loading the .38 S&W, I simply cut back .38 Special brass to .38 S&W length, and they worked fine, even though of a slightly smaller diameter. However, over the years I accumulated a great many .38 S&W cases, so I no longer trim back .38 Special cases.

ralph7 · #12 11-22-2011, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reddoh38

We recently purchased our first S&W Revolver. The store guy said it's a 1935 Model 10, but I can't find any information on the S&W website to confirm what I have. The barrel says 38 S&W CTG and the serial appears to be 39776. I'm sure I overpaid for it ($300). I was told it will fire "snake shot". Does anyone know about these and/or know where I should go for more information?

don't expect to find any factory .38 s&w snake shot, 'cause there ain't no such thing.

DWalt · #13 11-23-2011, 11:43 AM

Just as an additional factoid, many of the British Victory models in .38 S&W were rechambered in the 1950s for .38 Special for civilian sale in the US. This is not an ideal conversion, as the .38 S&W chamber is a little larger in diameter than the .38 Special, so the .38 Special is a sloppy fit. Apparently it was not unsafe, as thousands were so-converted. Lee Harvey Oswald (allegedly) used one such converted Victory model to kill Officer J. D. Tippitt in Dallas after Kennedy's assassination. There is a ballistic mystery surrounding this shooting, but that's a long story.