Question about serial number

Tweetyburb · #1 10-01-2012, 04:14 PM

I have been told I have a Smith &Wesson .32 known as a Lemmon Squeezer. Is there another name?
I have look all over the place and have not found any number close to mine, there are only 5 numbers not 6 … 148XX. There are no letters. All the places on to gun say the same numbers and that includes the grips. The grips also say E G E not sure what that stand for. Anyone have any information of this?
Thank you

Wiregrassguy · #2 10-01-2012, 04:49 PM

It is known as a .32 S&W Safety Hammerless, New Departure or Lemon Squeezer. If you have the serial # correct, it is a 1st model made from 1888 to 1902. Yours would have been made prior to 1900 and may be an antique. Does is have two side plate screws? Is it nickel or blue? What is the barrel length measured from the face of the cylinder where it meets the barrel and the barrel nose? Pictures are a must.

handejector · #3 10-01-2012, 05:03 PM

Are you sure it is an S&W?

Do you mean EGE is molded into the grips?
Is the serial number from the bottom of the grip frame?

Tweetyburb · #4 10-01-2012, 10:56 PM

Thank you for the help ok here are the questions with answers...
Does is have two side plate screws?
No just one screw.

Is it nickel or blue?
Blue

What is the barrel length measured from the face of the cylinder where it meets the barrel and the barrel nose?
3¼ inches

Do you mean EGE is molded into the grips?
No it is scraped or etched done by hand.

Is the serial number from the bottom of the grip frame?
Yes as well as the barrel, the cylinder and inside the grips

opoefc · #5 10-02-2012, 01:16 AM

As said above, you have a 1st Model .32 Safety hammerless, aka: New Departure Model, with all matching numbers, including the grips. It was made in the early 1890s and is an antique under ATF rules. The E G E is probably a prior owners initials. It doesn't have anything to do with S&W. Ed.

Tweetyburb · #6 10-02-2012, 08:38 AM

Again Thank You for the help. Letter of Authenticity is next on my list.

glowe · #7 10-02-2012, 10:08 AM

I think you might have a 38 S&W cartridge Safety. The cylinder looks too long for the 32. That fact would put the ship date in the late 1880s.

handejector · #8 10-02-2012, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glowe

I think you might have a 38 S&W cartridge Safety. The cylinder looks too long for the 32. That fact would put the ship date in the late 1880s.

Good eye.
I believe you are correct.
A 32 Saf-1st also has a much "flatter" frame above the grip knuckle.

Tweetyburb · #9 10-02-2012, 12:29 PM

ok here are more photos hope this helps. If you need more photos I can take them.

Wiregrassguy · #10 10-02-2012, 12:58 PM

Measures like a .38 to me. Do you push the latch down to open the cylinder?

Tweetyburb · #11 10-02-2012, 01:31 PM

Yes I push to open well press down

Tweetyburb · #12 10-02-2012, 01:47 PM

The last patent date was Oct 12 83 two Aug 4 85.
If that helps any

glowe · #13 10-02-2012, 02:23 PM

You definitely have a 38 Safety. The cylinder length of a 32 is less than 1". Standard 38 S&W ammo is available and will function just fine in your gun.

Tweetyburb · #14 10-02-2012, 02:44 PM

Thank you so now comes the next question. How do i get the rust off and out of it or should I it taken in to be cleaned?
I can't wait to take it out to the range.

handejector · #15 10-02-2012, 03:32 PM

For the record, that is a 38 Safety- 2nd.

It looks like the rust is pretty well cleaned off. Just keep it oiled. Further cleaning will be removing blue also.

glowe · #16 10-02-2012, 03:52 PM

Take a soft cloth, soaked in gun oil and rub down the entire gun, making sure you get oil into any rust areas and pits. They pretty much disappear. If you are comfortable in taking the sideplate off, you can inspect the mechanism to make sure it is not dirty. You can take an aerosol penetrating oil and spray out the dirt and hardened oils, then lubricate it with a good quality gun oil. I also use a can of compressed air to blow out the dirt and penetrating oil. I also blow out most of the gun oil, leaving a thin protective coating on all internal parts. Take your stocks off first.

You can also remove the cylinder and clean the internal parts as well, then thin coat of oil will help protect it from future rusting.

Lastly, some members use Renaissance Wax to protect the external finish, but I try to re-coat my guns with a synthetic oil from time to time and that also seems to work well.

Tweetyburb · #17 10-02-2012, 04:08 PM

Thank you
So I don't mean to bug you guys but, is there someplace with a "how to". I do not want to mess up and put it together wrong, and if I am going to shoot it I better know it inside and out before hand.

Wiregrassguy · #18 10-02-2012, 04:53 PM

There is very little you need to take off the gun. One side plate screw and you can get into the action. To loosen the side plate after removing the screw. Tap the handle of the frame (grips off) with the grip end of a screwdriver and it should pop up (don't pry it). Then you can clean the action. It shouldn't be necessary to remove anything. There's something unique about pulling the cylinder if you want to do that. But, I don't think you will. Just get some Winchester Gun Wash and spray it all in the action on the cylinder pivot, on the cylinder/ejector face, down each cylinder chamber and down the barrel. It dries very quickly and will get most of the crud out. Then, use an old toothbrush or soft wood bristle brush to get anything remaining out of the action. Once you do that, you can lube it with gun or 3n1 oil and close it up. Use that soft brush on the rough spots to help remove loose rust and you're done. If you decide to remove the cylinder, do a forum search for removing top break cylinders and you should find the answer.

Tweetyburb · #19 10-02-2012, 04:57 PM

cool that will work Thank you again.