Model 3 New Model parts

[BreakMyTop]

I'm new to posting to this forum, so please forgive me if this is in the wrong place. I'm trying to track down a part for my Model 3 New Model in .44 Russian. I'm looking for a cylinder stop. I tried Numrich, Jack First, and Old West Gunsmith, but to no avail. If anyone has a recommendation on where to look next, I'd be grateful.

The reason I'm looking for the part is because the revolver works fine if I cock it slow, but the cylinder does not lock if I work the hammer briskly. I can see wear on the engagement surface of the stop.

I'd like to continue to shoot my annual 18 rounds a year out of my toy and not have to retire it.

Thanks in advance to all for your assistance!

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. You have checked all the major sites that carry vintage S&W parts, but ebay and some of the gun auction sites like Gunbroker have lots of parts for S&Ws. It is, however, a long shot on getting the part you need. Have you considered talking with t machinist to see if a new one can be made? Also, it might be possible to weld a layer, then file it down to the original configuration. I have had tool & die shops do this in the past and it has worked out fine.

Lastly, you might check to make sure the springs are not weak and that the stop is raising fully.

[opoefc]

If you are absolutely sure the innards are squeaky clean of all the 130+ years of old grease, dried oil & general crud that has accumulated therein, the you can have a good gunsmith build up the cylinder stop by welding if it's really worn down. However, most S&W of this model, with the problem you have, are victims of a weak, or broken, cylinder stop spring that's not lifting up the cylinder stop high enough to catch the stop notches correctly. That spring is a small "banjo" type spring which you can see if you remove the trigger guard. Any good gunsmith, that knows how to anneal metal can make a new spring out of standard spring material, or out of a piece of old alarm clock mainspring. Good Luck, Ed.

[BreakMyTop]

The revolver is very clean on the inside. I inherited it from a lifelong friend and a smith. I am an armorer. I have already had it apart, and the spring in the trigger guard is in very taught condition. I have mainsprings on other models with less tension. (That's probably an exaggeration.) I would be very satisfied with the tension that my cylinder stop gives if it were on any of my K-frames.

Looks like I'll either have to just get lucky on the net, or find myself someone local who is a skilled machinist.

Thanks for your reply's, and I continue to welcome more!

[mmaher94087]

Does the cylinder lock correctly with the hammer all the way down? I ask as the cylinder stop is trigger actuated and often the sear has been stoned beyond tolerences which allows the trigger to contact the cylinder stop and hold the stop from fully engaging the knotch in the cylinder. Mike #283

[BreakMyTop]

I checked it last night. The cylinder does lock up with the hammer all the way down same as it does when the hammer is cocked.

I'm very certain that my stop will need either replacement or as others have said, an additional layer of metal welded on.

I very much appreciate everyone's input and interest in this!

[mmaher94087]

Humm... you said the cylinder stop spring could kill a mouse and the cylinder locks (tight?) with the hammer down (and up?). Since in either position the trigger is not supposed to be in contact with the cylinder stop and therefore the stop should be protruding from the frame at its maximum, I'm wondering how fast you are "work(ing) the hammer briskly"?

There was a company in Mountain View, CA that deals in micro-welding. Advanced Welding might weld a bead on your cylinder stop to build it up. They helped me with a chipped sear on a NM #3. I had to file/grind the profile and heat treat the part but it has worked flawlessly for the last seven years. Mike #283