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S&W Antiques S&W Lever Action Pistols, Tip-Up Revolvers, ALL Top-Break Revolvers, and ALL Single Shots


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Old 05-01-2013, 02:41 PM
LarryT LarryT is offline
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Hello, new member here and first post, so take it easy on me

I inherited an old S&W from my father and would like to determine the age and approx. value. He brought it home from WWII and carried it as a pocket gun for many years working the railroad. His hobo gun he called it. He passed a couple of years ago and I never thought much about the old revolver until I saw one almost identical on the back page this months American Rifleman.

It is a top break, 5 shot, DA only with a 3 1/4" barrel. Caliber is .38 S&W, nickel plated, serial number on the butt is 176111. It's in almost perfect condition. Much better condition than the one in American Rifleman anyway.

I'll try to post a picture...



Sure appreciate any information. Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:59 PM
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Welcome to the Forum. You have a 38 Double Action, 3rd Model, shipped around 1888. The nickel is either a refinish or somehow frosted over time, since the original finish was a bright clear finish.

It is difficult to tell if the finish is original without a closer inspection. If original, it appears that almost all the finish is present and that would help the value, but if refinished, it becomes a shooter grade gun. I would say if original maybe $350+/- and if refinished below $250 in today's market. There were over a half million of these revolvers manufactured and that also keeps value lower. Just a few years ago, these were very low cost, selling for under $200 even if in excellent condition, but times have changed.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the welcome, reply and information. I had always just assumed it was made in the 1930s or so. I never realized it was over 120 years old! I might should quit shooting armadillos with it. My Dad said he took it from a German in North Africa in 1943. Evidently the German didn't have any more use for it.

It has not been refinished, not in the 60 years that I've been seeing it anyway.

What distinguishes this revolver from the First Model that seems to have be made during the same time period?

Last edited by LarryT; 05-01-2013 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:01 PM
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Be aware yours is legally an antique, therefore it is immune to many federal, state, and local gun laws. That can result in a premium price these days.

There were actually five models of the .38 DA produced in sequence, plus an "Improved" version called the "Perfected" model.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:09 PM
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Take some Mother's Mag polish to it. From what I see -- proud pins, sharp sideplate, correct blue on trigger guard -- I don't think it's been refinished. But, Gary is much more discerning than I . Also, you might take the grips off and see if the SN is scratched in the right panel. Congratulations on your inheritance!
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Be aware yours is legally an antique, therefore it is immune to many federal, state, and local gun laws.
I never considered that aspect of it. Hmmmm... could you expand on that a little ?

Quote:
I don't think it's been refinished.
I'm pretty certain of it. My Dad wasn't one to do things like that, nor could he afford it. I'd say the dullness is 40 years of pocket wear.


Quote:
you might take the grips off and see if the SN is scratched in the right panel. Congratulations on your inheritance!
I'll do that. Wish my Dad still had it but nothing is forever.
Maybe I'll build a custom mahogany display case for it and put in the knife he took from the same German soldier. Wondering how a German got the revolver in the first place. He probably took it from an American. Were these ever issued in combat?


I sure do appreciate y'alls time and information. Very informative
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:34 PM
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Many states require post -1898 handguns to be registered. Also, selling a "modern" gun usually requires an ffl be involved in the transaction. An antique can be kept without registration and can be sold to anyone who can legally own a handgun, plus it can be mailed using the Post Office.

The 1st Model had a straight cut sideplate and it proved to be somewhat weak at that point on the frame, so they were changed with the 2nd Model. The main difference between the 2nd Model and 3rd was that the 2nd Model had a double row of stop notches on the cylinder and one row was eliminated on the 3rd Model. The changes on the 4th and 5th Models were mostly internal. In addition, the 4th Model had a forged front sight instead of a pinned blade.

The last 38 S&W top-break was called the Perfected. It was totally different than the preceding models in that the frame used was the same as the Model 1903 Hand Ejector, except that it still had a top break action.

There was a lot of blowing sand in North Africa and maybe it got sandblasted in the frequent sandstorms??

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:35 PM
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Nice heirloom! I was just wondering if you meant
DAO or DA/SA? If DAO, that'd indicate maybe some
foreign material in the lockwork. It should be DA/SA.
I've got a 3rd model as a project firearm. Its condition
is nowhere near as nice as yours.
I sure would like to see any display you build.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:41 PM
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If you remove the grips (stocks to Smith & Wesson) be aware there is a pin at the bottom of the stock that can crack/chip your grips/stocks if they are removed improperly. Loosen the screw two to three turns with a proper fitting screwdriver (hollow ground blade preferred). Tap the screw head a few times and the panel opposite the screw head will loosen. Remove the screw and the panel and carefully tap the bottom center of the inside of the stock, just above the frame, to remove it. Be careful not to pull the grip down and away from the top or you will surely break the grip. The screw and the pins are parallel to each other. Mike #283
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:09 AM
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Wow, I sure came to the right place for information Thank you all for the replies.

glowe, great history lesson! Good thought on the sand in NA.

TACC1, it certainly appears to be DA only.

Mike, thanks for the grip removal instructions. I'm a custom boat builder, not a gunsmith, so I think I'll leave well enough alone and not take it apart.

Appreciate it, men
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:57 AM
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Decided to remove the grips after all. Followed Mike's instructions without a hitch. A matching serial number is lightly scratched in the inside of the right grip. Also found the serial number stamped on the rear of the cylinder. Looks good and clean in here too.

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Old 05-02-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryT View Post
. . . it certainly appears to be DA only.
All 38 S&W revolvers are double or single action. If you pull the hammer back and it does not hold, chances are there is a dried oil/grease/dirt buildup. It you think the action is dirty, just try to spray some Carb & Choke Cleaner into the action from the back of the grip frame. Let soak and re-spray. I use compressed air to blow out the cleaner and let is dry, then lightly oil inside. If the single action mode still won't work, you may have a broken spring somewhere inside.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:38 AM
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Thanks Gary. It has never functioned in SA in my lifetime, but I will investigate that.
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