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Old 07-15-2013, 03:24 PM
dogngun dogngun is offline
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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Default Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...

Just got this one about 2 hours ago, and took the pics while it was still dripping lube...



Bore is just great, and the cylinder stop was not working when I got it, but after a liberal application of Frog Lube it all works very well and locks up tight. I think this was stored rather than carried much and not shot much, either...



It has the patent dates in a large Y up onto the top strap, and the SN is 69610, on the grip strap, cylinder and grips. It cleaned up very well and seems looks like a nice piece for my pile of small caliber older Smiths. Still color on the hammer and trigger, too...3 1/2" barrel beautiful grips.

Mark
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:56 PM
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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Originally Posted by dogngun View Post
It cleaned up very well and seems looks like a nice piece for my pile of small caliber older Smiths.
So just curious, but how would you define "pile?" I can barely find these and when I do, they are junk! I've only seen a couple of them in my LGS and they've had astronomical price tags on them for non functioning, rusty junk. I guess I do live in the middle of nowhere but they can't be that scarce.

It's in great shape. Congrats on the new addition!
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:16 PM
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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Probably shipped in the mid-1880s. It will clean up much better using Flitz or a good quality automotive paint scratch remover. I would also take off the sideplate and make sure the mechanism is not filthy or caked with old lube. Carb and Choke Cleaner liberally sprayed into the mechanism will work well if you are not up to dissassembly.

Nice old pocket revolver and should fire just fine with current manufacture 32 S&W ammo.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:01 PM
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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I have a couple of these one nickle and one blue. You will be amazed how accurate they are out to at least 10 yards (as far as I have shot mine). Only problem is seeing the teeny sights, and finding ammo.

These are all 1 1/2's, the top two are the tip up rimfire and the bottom two are the top break centerfire.

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Old 07-15-2013, 08:15 PM
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"take off the sideplate.." Instead, remove the stocks, cock the hammer and turn it upside-down and flush out the mechanism from both the hammer recess and the frame/stock/mainspring cavity. Taking the side plate off often results in a distinct outline indicating that the revolver has been "messed with". Obviously, I'm not a fan of side plate removal unless absolutely necessary for repair. Mike #283
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:33 PM
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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"take off the sideplate.." Taking the side plate off often results in a distinct outline indicating that the revolver has been "messed with". Mike #283
Mike, what do you mean when you say it results in a distinct outline. I am of the opinion that you can not be assured of a proper cleaning and lubrication without being able to get to the mechanism. I have removed the sideplate on almost every revolver I have purchased to do a thorough cleaning and inspection and often dis-assembled the gun in order to fully remove the decades of powder, dried oil, etc. and have never considered it messed with. What have you seen with other guns that have been dis-assembled?
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Last edited by glowe; 07-15-2013 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:47 AM
dogngun dogngun is offline
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glowe View Post
Probably shipped in the mid-1880s. It will clean up much better using Flitz or a good quality automotive paint scratch remover. I would also take off the sideplate and make sure the mechanism is not filthy or caked with old lube. Carb and Choke Cleaner liberally sprayed into the mechanism will work well if you are not up to dissassembly.

Nice old pocket revolver and should fire just fine with current manufacture 32 S&W ammo.
Thanks. I don't like to take them apart any more than necessary. I sprayed a lot of CLP into it and drained it for about an hour, then used Frog Lube inside it. I probably won't clean the outside much more than it already is, at least not for a while.

Mechanically it is near new now that the grease is loosened up and flushed out.

This one was about $350.

mark
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:56 AM
dogngun dogngun is offline
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeritasVincit View Post
So just curious, but how would you define "pile?" I can barely find these and when I do, they are junk! I've only seen a couple of them in my LGS and they've had astronomical price tags on them for non functioning, rusty junk. I guess I do live in the middle of nowhere but they can't be that scarce.

It's in great shape. Congrats on the new addition!
Well, this is my first No. 1 1/2, but I have 2 No. 1 tip ups, 2 Baby Russians, 2 .32 New Departure's, 2 .38 New Departures ( about 230 numbers apart from 1903), a No. 2 Army, a .44 Russian First Model DA, and a late 1880's .38 Top Break DA with factory MOP grips in near new condition.
Also have a .32-10 Hand Ejector from the late 1920's, 5", and several newer 4" K frames from the 1970's and a relatively new Model 21-4 .44 Spl. I also have a great 2213 and a Model 61-3 Escort...

I think that's it for my Smiths right now...

I have some others, too, but...

I just keep running into stuff like this...I just turned down 3 nice guns this morning, and bought another old Astra auto pistol...

mark
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Last edited by dogngun; 07-16-2013 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:56 AM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is online now
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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"Mike, what do you mean when you say it results in a distinct outline.".. I find that the side plate usually is not lined up properly with the frame when reassembled resulting in either the plate sitting proud of the frame or the top of the side plate not aligning with the top of the frame at the hammer recess. Mike #283
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:22 PM
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Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890... Model 1 1/2 .32 S&W, I think about 1890...  
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I find that the side plate usually is not lined up properly with the frame when reassembled resulting in either the plate sitting proud of the frame or the top of the side plate not aligning with the top of the frame at the hammer recess. Mike #283
OK thanks - I suppose that the early oval side plates could be slightly miss-aligned if not careful, but I always start with lining up the screw slots before re-installing the plate. That would, of course not include hand ejectors which I don't think could be miss-aligned due to their shape.
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