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S&W Antiques S&W Lever Action Pistols, Tip-Up Revolvers, ALL Top-Break Revolvers, and ALL Single Shots


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Old 07-16-2014, 12:23 AM
SGHowell SGHowell is offline
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Default Help id 2 S&W guns

First -- forgive my total ignorance. Only guns I have ever even held were squirrel hunting with my uncle when I was 12 -- and today when we found two what I guess are revolvers in my husband's father's belongings. How is the best way to identify them? I am assuming they are safe since there are no bullets in them. One is silver with black handle and small -- room for 5 bullets. Other is larger, six bullets. Number on end of small one is 9621; large one: 21665. Both have Smith & Wesson logo on the handles and the big one has it on the gun too, with the words Trade Mark around it.
Any help would be appreciated! oh, and the hammer on the large one looks like it is only half there. Maybe broken off?
SGHowell

Last edited by SGHowell; 07-16-2014 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:31 AM
Jim Watson Jim Watson is offline
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There is a sticky on the things to look at to fully describe a Smith & Wesson. If the terms are unclear, the only thing left to do is to show close clear pictures.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:48 AM
opoefc opoefc is offline
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Welcome to the Forum. I'm sure we can identify your two S&Ws if you can give us a better description and some photos. As said above, there's a sticky that list the requirements of info. needed to identify guns. If you can't find the sticky, start with (1) length of the barrel as measured from the front of the cylinder to the muzzle (2) tell us what numbers are stamped on the guns and especially where they are located (3) the caliber of the guns. If you don't have ammunition to try for a fit in the cylinder, take the guns to a gun store and have them tell you the calibers. Some S&Ws will have the caliber stamped on the side of the barrel. (4) How do you load your guns? By opening a latch on the top rear of the barrel and tilting the barrel down? or by pressing on a button on the left side behind the cylinder which allows the cylinder to swing out to the left? (5) what material are the grips made from? Ed.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:44 AM
SGHowell SGHowell is offline
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Is there any way to clean it safely? I can see their is a CTG and some other writing on the barrel but can't read it. Also, can't tell the first number/letter of the serial number on the bigger one: S, 5, 2?
And, can't match number of screws on the bigger one. It has four, but one of them is NOT in front of trigger. It's all one solid piece. Tell me if I need to put this post somewhere else on the site.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:39 AM
Brandon0413 Brandon0413 is offline
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A picture is worth a thousand words.

To IDENTIFY your Gun >
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGHowell View Post
Is there any way to clean it safely? I can see their is a CTG and some other writing on the barrel but can't read it.
Welcome. If the chambers in the cylinder are empty, the revolvers are perfectly safe to handle and clean. Initially, you can simply use oil and a rag to protect the guns, use a terrycloth rag and rub hard in any places where rust is present. Try to use a magnifying glass to read the CTG markings. That will tell us what caliber the revolvers are. Just copy down the stamping exactly. The serial number that is found on the butt of the guns will also be stamped on the rear of the cylinders, so again look with a magnifier to read them. If you post the information Ed asked for and the serial numbers and caliber stampings, we should be able to give you a detailed identification.

Last question to answer is if the 5 shot revolver has a visible hammer or not?
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:37 AM
SGHowell SGHowell is offline
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After reading and looking at some photos on the site, I don't think the one I'm caller "Smaller" is a S&W. Could be wrong, but the logo looks weird and it says Eastern Arms Co. on the barrel. Maybe a knock-off? Here are the photos and the answers to the questions on the Sticky.
Gun 1 (larger): Hand ejector; serial: can't read first letter/no. then x166x; can't read CTG but looks like a something then 8; 4 inch barrel; fixed sight; strain screw; 4 screws but none behind trigger.

Gun 2 (Smaller): Top break; Serial 96xx; can't find CTG: 3 inch barrel; Fixed sight; no strain screw; top of barrel says: Eastern Arms Co.

4 photos:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Larger S&W.jpg (152.4 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg Larger S&W open.jpg (145.3 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg Smaller gun.jpg (154.0 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg Smaller gun open.jpg (158.4 KB, 63 views)
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:56 AM
Jim Watson Jim Watson is offline
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The Hand Ejector is a Smith & Wesson Military & Police, I think the Model of 1902, but best to wait on an expert to see the pictures. Yes, the hammer spur is broken.

The Eastern Arms was made by the Meriden Fire Arms Co. which was a subsidiary of Sears & Roebuck from 1905 til 1918 and made their A.J. Aubrey guns. Meriden also made the Eastern Arms, Empire State Arms, Howard Arms, and the infamous Secret Service Special for sale by other distributors; also some under their own name.
No connection with Smith & Wesson, about 1/4 the price of a S&W in those days.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:14 AM
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SN 21665 would make it a S&W .38 Hand Ejector, Model of 1902 Military Revolver (but not used by the military), an earlier one probably from 1902. It was also called the "Second Model," the first model being the S&W Model of 1899 which was slightly different in several respects. It is chambered for .38 S&W Special ammunition. It's probably safe to shoot, but I wouldn't recommend shooting it.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:50 PM
SGHowell SGHowell is offline
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Y'all are terrific! Thank you so much for the information. As for shooting it... not me. I can barely pull the trigger -- which I'm sure would be easier were it oiled up and cleaned. So appreciate the prompt information.
SGHowell
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:03 PM
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I am not sure if a correct replacement hammer for the Model of 1902 is available, but it is possible one could be found. A competent gunsmith could probably fabricate and shape the missing part of the spur and weld it on. However, neither option would be cheap.
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